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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • Blower motor resistor bad! Behind glove box! Look up autozone part for a picture and you will see it as soon as you look up there behind glovebox! Easy fix buy new one, unplug old, unscrew and put new one in and replug it in.. Hope this helps!
  • Just to let folk out there know.
    I have a 1990 mazda 323(think it's called protege in the states).Had it from new. It has done 350,000 kilometers,and is just in for the 2nd replacement clutch.Exhaust has never been changed,
    Can anyone guess how many miles I am going to get from this engine(b3 1.3l)
  • Hi folks.

    A few weeks ago, my Protege5's rear brakes stuck to the rear wheels. Unfortunately, my girlfriend didn't really notice until she saw the smoke. She drove about 5 blocks, downhill. We brought the car to the dealership in the afternoon (and the brakes had unstuck by then) and they switched out the brake pads (apparently, they were melted quite badly).

    Low and behold, today, the rear brakes stuck again. This time, my girlfriend noticed that the parking brake was loose (no resistance when putting it on). It's going back to the dealership for repairs but I'm wondering if anyone had this problem before, and what it could be?

    I was thinking maybe the rear calipers? Moisture in the cables or something?
  • 99dx99dx Posts: 3
    I had a car with rear drums break and wedge one shoe ... but that's not your problem. Fix that parking brake before the rear brake job.
  • have the air flow meter check, also egr vale wil cause that problem
  • Auton,

    By your suggestion, I'm guessing that the alternator is burried down near the clutch.
    I'm sure when everything is apart, the dealer will suggest replacement no matter what.
    In order to check it, does it need to be visually inspected, or can an electronic diagnostic do the trick ahead of time.


  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    dealer will suggest replacement no matter what
    In an honest dealership, the mechanic should suggest the replacement of a worn part if it will save the client money. The saving is in the labor that will not need to be redone. The real issue for many drivers is do we trust the mechanic giving the advice? If not, seek another opinion.
  • My experience has been to ask the 4 local dealers the same question & get 3 - 4 different answers, which is why this site is usually so valuable. You sounded expereinced in the eval & replacement of the item, thus the question.
    Thanks for the advise; as always I'll ask around.
  • I have a 2000 Protege ES (169,000 miles) with two issues that might be related. First the right headlight on works on high beam (the dashboard light no longer turns on) and the left one does not work at all. I replaced the bulbs and it did not fix the problem. While I was changing the bulbs I noticed the plastic connector housing was half melted. After the headlights did not come on I cut out the connector housing and directly attached the wires to the headlights. This did not help and I still have one headlight. Another aspect of this is that all the electrical components (headlights, interior light, radio display, etc.) flicker while driving and while the engine is on and the car is stopped. The alternator went out for the 2nd time in 3 years and I thought that maybe the voltage regulator was causing the problem, but with the new alternator the issue still exists.
    The second issue is that the vehicle idles very rough. My check engine light does not come on, but Autozone returned a code saying that cylinder 3 was not firing. I changed the plugs, wires, and ignition coil, but the engine is still running rough. The old wires and ignition coil had a couple ends that were black and charred. If anyone has suggestions I would be most appreciative to hear them. Thanks!!
  • I have same problem as gerard8153. Protege 5, 2002, air speed knob fell off. looks like internal mounting came off or broke in back of console. Any ideas on how to remove console so i can try to fix this? :(
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    "plastic connector housing was half melted ... all the electrical components (headlights, interior light, radio display, etc.) flicker "

    Are you the original owner since 2000? If not, there could be a bit of missing history that may explain these events. Has the car been soaked (for example, by a flood)?
  • I am the original owner and there has not been any major damage such as flooding.
  • tekvotekvo Posts: 1
    Ok ive been driving my 02 Protege for the last couple of days and the problem as been getting worse. It seams when i first start to drive my car and press the gas and release the clutch the car begins to go jerky and act like its getting gas and not getting gas. Even when im in 2nd gear it does the same thing like its almost about to stop but it keeps going. I have to push in the clutch and then go again giving more gas then it should need. Any ideas on what the problem is?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    press the gas and release the clutch the car begins to go jerky and act like its getting gas and not getting gas.

    One possibility is your Protege's EGR valve. EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation and the EGR valve is part of the car's emission system. The valve could be clogged which would cause the engine to choke and then to spurt as if the car was about to stop and then suddenly jump.

    The EGR problem is very common with Proteges. I had the EGR valve on my 2002P5 replaced a few years ago. Some recommend just cleaning the valve can do the trick.
  • Yeah I just bought a '98 protege from a friend... big mistake, but I've run into the same problems you have! First your light housing is melting because it is not making contact all the way with your the light... I think a spring is missing that will keep it in place and not melt your wires. Second, your 3 cylinder is not firing because of carbon build up in your catalytic converter... swear to god it's nothing with the engine. Change the O2 sensors and make sure that the cat is not completly clogged and smells like eggs. Than give it a tune up make sure that your airbox and everything that leads up to the mainfold(I don't know what that plastic piece is called, but make sure it isn't broken). Lastly your Alternator... these year protege's have really bad alternators and have a tendancy of seizing up. BUY A GOOD ALTERNATOR don't skimp like i did and get one from a junkyard, don't buy a bottom of the barrel OEM replacement... get the best. Trust me this will save you from repeating a job over and over and over again. Honestly the protege isn't a bad car... wait yes it is because Ford had a say in making it. I'm honestly just holding on to mine until I build up my credit enough to finance a better Japanese car that has nothing to do with Ford at all. Or until I can't take it anymore and I sell it.
  • How do you replace an EGR valve on a 95 Mazda Protege?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    How do you replace an EGR valve on a 95 Mazda Protege?
    The simplest way to replace the EGR would be to go to a Mazda dealership. The alternatives are to have an independent garage do it, or to have the EGR cleaned, or to replace it with one from a vehicle that has been scrapped.

    p.s. I learned something! I was not aware there were EGR valves on Mazda vehicles back in 1995.
  • after you changed the o2 sensors and cleaned the EGR or replaced it, is the car running good now because mine is doing the same thing jerking and acting like it is not getting enough gas then as if it is getting too much?
  • Your Front Calipers or Rear wheel wheel cylinders might be seized. or you could have a small leak in one of your brake lines
  • How do I know what is the problem? My car shakes while driving passed 40 mph. So is it the tires, strut and suspension? Any ideas? It was very bad on the highway tonight that I thought I had a flat tire, but when I checked the tire was okay.
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