Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

1177178179180182

Comments

  • 1995 mazda protege that my daughter loves and cannot part with. I have had the mass air flow, fuel pump and a couple of other things changed but when the car is driven sometimes it stalls as if the fuel is not flowing and then it will kicks in. I cannot allow her to drive it in fear that someone may ram her in the back or she ram someone because when the fuel kicks in, the car goes forward really fast. No one seems to know what the problem is since I have had a lot of new parts put on. Can someone give me some help since I really don't know anything about cars. Thank you.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    edited February 2012
    when the car is driven sometimes it stalls as if the fuel is not flowing and then it will kicks in
    This seems to describe a known problem in Mazda Proteges: the failure of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Once the valve is clogged up, the flow of fuel is interrupted which causes stalling and then bucking once the fuel "kicks in". Most Mazda dealerships would be aware of this problem and the solution: a) clean the valve, or b) replace the valve.
  • Hi,
    I have a 93 Mazda Protege DX 1.8 SOHC . I recently re-did the entire exhaust system (after letting it run for a while with a few holes here and there), put on new spark plugs & wires, gave it a new oil change & filter, and a new tie rod end. After finishing up, I took it for a drive, it sputtered and lost power (completely). I checked under the hood once I got home, and saw a spark plug wire had come off of the distributor cap. I fixed the problem, and it seemed to work fine. I noticed later that when I start my car, there's a bit of white smoke coming from the tail-pipe, but it seems to clear up pretty quickly. When I drive it, it seems to do just fine, until I get to a decent hill. My car loses power almost immediately, to the point where I wasn't sure if my car WOULD make it to the top of the hill before it just stopped or started rolling back down. I've checked the transmission fluid, it's still a nice, bright red, doesn't look murky or anything. I made sure the terminal connections on the battery were good, which they are. I switched out the fuel filter, even though it really shouldn't have needed a switch. I made sure there was nothing wrong with the muffler and the rest of the exhaust system, and I'm still having issues losing power up hills. Any ideas???
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    You may want to check the fuel tank for condensation or corrosion.

    You could bring it into a garage to have it diagnosed for OBD codes.
  • Mazda 2002 Protege 2.0 litre w/120,000. On cold mornings the vehicle starts but idles horribly, when it's put in drive it barely moves. After approx 6-7 miles it starts to loosen up and then will run like its brand new. If it's 50 degrees or more, vehicle starts right up and drives with no problem. I've had a diagnosis run on it, changed the front oxygen sensor on the manifold, changed the egr valve, new timing belt and water pump, new plugs and recently new hose between the manifold and air intake filter. My mechanic had the diagnosis completed and the pistons cylinders are all at 200 plus psi but the vehicle is running lean. The spark plugs look like they're brand new after a thousand miles. No one can figure this out.
    thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,420
    How about a coolant temperature sensor? If that was defective, it would approximate all your symptoms---just a guess, but....

    The theory is that a defective coolant temp sensor would tell the computer that the engine is already warm, thereby not enriching the mixture for starting; as the engine warms up, it is more compatible with the defective sensor's default reading.

    MODERATOR

  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    One thing to check is defective spark plug wire(s). This will cause cutouts when driving, but ususally it will only last a second or two. It occurred at 40-50 MPH for me.

    Other possibilities include a crack in rubber air intake hose/snorkle from the air filter to throttle, defective engine coolant temperature sensor, defective fuel pressure regulator, and water or other contaminants in the fuel tank.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I got lucky when the upper radiator hose partially broke recently. It didn't lose all coolant or strand me and the car never went past its normal coolant temp. level. So I changed both hoses with new Gates versions (Made In USA, O'Reilly Auto Parts) and looked at my records to see how long the old ones lasted. The answer is 8.5 years! I have slacked off in keeping up on some maintenance with my 17 year old Protege. This car lulls you into complacency due to its good build quality and many excellent parts (origninal clutch, alternator, ps pump, starter, etc.).

    Also, I have been using long-life orange Dex-Cool (Prestone Version) on this car since 1998 with no adverse affects. Radiator is always clean with no gunk and I flush the coolant every 5 years. I just switched to yellow Peak global coolant because of a sale. This stuff says lifetime, i.e. no need to flush, and thus just top it off. We'll see.

    We also own a '01 Olds minivan and many people with GM minivans refer to Dex-Cool as "death cool" due to poorly designed intake manifold gaskets combined with Dex-Cool and the coolant getting into the engine and causing failure. Well, we did have the bad gaskets replaced twice under warranty (3rd set is a redesigned version), but since then no problems and we are still using orange Dex-Cool changed every 4 or 5 years. The van is 11 years old and has 130K miles on the odometer.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    my 17 year old Protege. This car lulls you into complacency due to its good build quality and many excellent parts (origninal clutch, alternator, ps pump, starter, etc.).
    That's reassuring to hear.
  • morgancomorganco Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Mazda Protege DX (1.5) that about a week ago started to have some issues with the rear suspension. When I am making a left turn like say off on an exit my right rear wheel feels like its swaying and sometimes depending on my speed feels like im going to lose control. Not to mention when I hit a manhole at any speed or any size bump what so ever I get a loud noise/loud rattling coming from the right rear strut. I pulled the tire off yesterday and just kind of felt around to see if anything felt loose, and everything feels pretty tight. I inspected the struts and thr rubber around the coil over springs is pretty much all gone. I found out that the car never had a sway bar from the factory so i was hoping it was just the end links. I know there is an array of issues that have to do with the rear suspension on these cars as im told. Does anyone have any ideas for me to explore, please help! Thank You!

    Ryan
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I have the same model car. So I assume the tire itself is fine and no tread separation or internal belt defects? Next, has the spring part of the strut cracked? This is not common, but springs can break. Is the shock absorber part of the strut still good, i.e. it properly dampens the rebound of the spring when you go over a bump or press down on the corner of the car? If this shock fails, the common symptom is leaking fluid and the car will bounce up and down for some time after going over bumps. Has the suspension support bearing failed? This is the part the connects the piston of the strut to the frame of the car at the top. Are the nuts that secure the strut to the car tight? These are just some of the major things to look for in diagnosis.

    I replaced all the struts at around 150K miles on my car. I reused the suspension supports and rubber spring seats. So far so good at 233K miles. This job was only moderately difficult.

    The Haynes repair manual has very good diagrams and instructions for DIY repair. Also, replacement struts can be purchased pre-assembled with a new spring, so spring compressors are not even needed if one is worried about that. I used the free loaner spring compressors from a local parts store when I did mine and followed all instructions and had no problems.
  • henzhenz Posts: 3
    Greetings! I have a 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0. My valve cover gasket needs replaced. I'm a do it yourself guy. Is it an an easy (relative) job? Any advice will be great. Thanx for your time. Jim
  • morgancomorganco Posts: 2
    So I ended up rotating the tires earlier today and this is the weirdest things but it does not sway, wobble, or shake as much on the highway (60mph+). I ended up taking it to big-o and the guy told me it was for sure my strut. So I'm going to have to replace the right rear strut. Before I begin this job im hoping you guys can help me out with a few things:

    1- Where can I find a pre-assembeled strut?
    2- While I'm under there, what are some low cost but important/effective things I can replace while I have it torn apart? I have the chiltons but it's not too informative on replacements for this job.

    Thank you in advance. I just today started hearing that wonderful click click noise that we all love to hear from the right cv so I'll be asking for some help when I get ready to change that next week.
  • kap64kap64 Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 2000 Mazda Protege LX with 38k miles on it and a 1.4L engine. The car starts fine in the morning to go to work and starts fine in the afternoon to go home from work. If I get home and change clothes, hop in the car to go somewhere, it won't start, turns over like it's out of gas, sometimes sputters and lopes before it just stops firing. It seems to only do this in the afternoon, specifically between 3pm and 5pm, never after dark or in the morning. I can drive all day long as long as I don't cut off the engine. After sitting for about fifteen to thirty minutes, it will start like nothing ever happened. So far, it only does it once per day. After I get it started in the afternoon, I can seem to go anywhere, stop as many times as needed, and it keeps starting every time. It seems to be getting more frequent as the weather warms, never did it in January or February, but so far has done it every time I try to start it when the temp is around 80 or higher. I get no engine light, temp gauge is normal. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • bluebird12bluebird12 Posts: 3
    In my Mazda protege 1977, my directional lights don't work, if somebody can help how to check them, and where can I finda a Diagram, where is the fuse, I have fuses under the hood, and under the dash, but the only fuse with name is the emergency light.

    Thank you
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    edited May 2012
    In my Mazda protege 1977, my directional lights don't work
    I did not think the Mazda Protege existed in 1977. Do you mean 1997? If so, you may want to check your local library to see if they have a copy of Chilton's repair manual for Mazdas.
  • jdj2jdj2 Posts: 1
    I have was having the exact same problem for about 5 months. I could not get any answers from my mechanic as to what might be the cause, finally through a painstaking process of elimination my father figured out the cause was my crankshaft position sensor. We purchased a new one for around $70.00. Installation was very simple and I have not had any problems since with my car not starting.
  • dek416dek416 Posts: 1
    Hi. I am also having the same problem with my 2000 mazda protege lx, approx 37,000 miles and has been at my mechanic and now another mechanic over the past few months and they are telling me that they cannot do anything (repairs) on the car because there is no signs of anything wrong with it. I know that there is something up with the car. Can you tell me how you and your father were able to figure out that it was the crankshaft positon sensor? My dh and I are not mechanically equipped and don't have money to throw around unnecessarily on car parts. We just had the starter changed when this all happened in April when the weather here in NY started to get warmer. At one point the car wouldn't start after 4 tries and then it started fine after 20 minutes. We had autozone check out the batter, alternator, etc and all was fine. We do not have a check engine light on.
    Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.