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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hey all, I'm new here and just thanking in advance. There's a lot of good info here. My protege will stall when driving then "buck" and run fine but it continues to get worse. I cleaned both sides of all multiconnectors and drew a blank as I was thinking this thing is just cutting out then starts to run again so I looked for intermittants in the electrical system.. no luck there. So I'll start with cleaning and checking the erg system. thx,jack
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    So I'll start with cleaning and checking the erg system
    Good idea. The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recycling) mechanism is a known issue with Proteges. Hope this solves it for you.
  • Is there a diagram HERE for the vacumn line layout? There's no label under the hood. Also is that the IAC system mounted on the bottom side of the TB? (2 antifreeze filled hoses and control wire plug.) Last question...Do I need to remove TB to get to the EGR value? I'm having a hard time locating it. this car was wrecked at some point but did run well for the last two years my friend has owned it.
    2000 Protege 1.8 DOHC 5 speed manual.
    ps does that TB require a new gasket when removed?
  • correction.:) this protege dx has a 1.6 in it. I did front brakes and had to get the ones for a 1.8 to match what was in it. fun eh?
  • i had the same problem with my 98, it ended up being a dry rotted vacuum line forgive me for my lack of knowledge but my father inlaw said the line went to the brake if that helps any. i do know that we replaced it and the vibrating stopped.
  • Back again. I cleaned the egr valve. Made a new gasket. Cleaned entire TB and all assosiated vacumn hoses. No cracks. repaced TB gasket too. The engine light went out then reoccured after about 20 miles. Then the motor would lose speed from about 55mph down to approx 40 mph then resume it's speed till about 55-60.. this continued till I got home. It seems like a fuel delivery problem. There is a canister shaped item mounted on the firewall passenger side. It has ONE steel line connected to the "tank" side and one vacumn hose on the other side...running to a sensor mounted on the TB. Both connections are on the top of it... Can anyone help me Identify this item?? It's obviously part of the fuel system... thanks.
    ps it does seem to idle a little high after warm up..
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    The part you are referring to is most likely the charcoal canister. It is part of the evaporative emissions control system and usually doesn't fail. Here is a good explanation:

    http://www.aa1car.com/library/evap_system.htm

    Are the spark plug wires O.K.? I had engine hesitation at 45-50 M.P.H. and it was a bad plug wire.

    Have you changed the fuel filter? I've not had any fuel related issues (pump, fuel pressure regulator, etc.) on my '95 Protege, so I'm not able to give much advice in this area.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    edited August 2012
    I just replaced my '95 Mazda Protege Muffler for the second time since I purchased the car new. The original muffler lasted 10 years before the weld failed at the flange connecting the muffler to the resonator pipe.

    The second muffler was a Bosal high end model and it only lasted 7 years. It failed internally and a big hole developed in the bottom of the muffler body. I thought this part was lifetime warranty, but I didn't keep the warranty documentation (have receipt) from the online purchase. The seller, although still in business, no longer sells mufflers and had changed computers, etc. They said to check with Bosal. Bosal didn't respond to my email request for warranty replacement, so no more Bosal parts for this DIY mechanic.

    I had a 20% off coupon and bought a new Walker high end muffler at a local Pep Boys store with lifetime warranty. This muffler is actually made in the USA (unlike Bosal- made in Mexico) and it appears to be good quality. I hope to get 10 years out of it!

    Changing the muffler on this car is pretty easy with jack stands. Just back the car up onto the stands. Use some rust remover on the nuts and bolts' threads. Use some grease on the metal support arms/hangers to easily remove the muffler from the rubber grommets. Piece of cake. One hour or less to complete.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    That should be ramps, not jack stands, that I used to replace the muffler.
  • Hey, I have a 1999 Mazda Protege and I have the same problem of the console/instrument lights will not come on. How did you fix the problem. on mine, the dimmer does nothing...no lights on the speedometer or the A/C panel. I have checked all the fuzes. I am curious to how you fixed yours??
  • Hello, my 1999 Mazda Protege has this same problem with the console/instrument lights not coming on at all. How did you fix this other car? I have checked the fuzes and none are blown. Interestingly enough, the electric mirrors do not work either. On the fuze sheet in the owners manual, it does not say which fuzes control either one. Ideas??
  • Hey, I have had the same problem you are speaking of with the console/Instrument lights. How did you fix the above problem?? I have checked all the fuzes as well with no luck. Looking for clues?
  • i had the same problem with my 1999 protege thought it was in the transmission took it to a shop. all it needed was a new battery it was no longer puttin out the proper voltage for it to run properly. it would lose power especially up hill the pcm was not giving enough voltage. was such an easy fix thought i was gonna have to have my transmission rebuilt. runs fine now
  • Went to inspection and failed. Code said needed new catalytic converter (run by Mazda mechanic and Autozone) Bought through a dealer who replaced. Before I go on, car ran FINE before cat was replaced. Drove car from dealer after cat was replaced to work, maybe 10 miles, ran fine. After work, drove home and started to sputter. Next day, had xmas shopping to do and the sputtering started again. When I got home it was dark out, a pipe from the cat was GLOWING RED (got picture since it was night). Now when running, still sputtering. Another test was run and code said it was a misfire. Took back to dealer who fixed and they said it was EGR valve. This was replaced ran fine from dealer to work and then on way home started the sputtering again. How can a car's engine that worked fine before the cat was replaced start having all these problems after the cat was replaced. $1700 and still not working right. Any help would be appreciated.
  • niosamaniosama Posts: 1
    edited April 2013
    The 2000 protege had an ignition coil recall. You should check with the dealer to confirm it has been replaced.
  • zachalzachal Posts: 1
    Hi Folks,

    I have two independently broken items and need help. I have a 1998 Mazda Protege LX. Here goes:

    1. This is the third horn in the last three cars I've owned that has malfunctioned. With this one, I push on the horn button and here a clicking sound from underneath the glove compartment. I tried to get a sense if there was a shorted relay or something, but couldn't figure it out. It's one to one: one push on the button, one clicking sound. Thoughts?

    2. A couple years ago after a wet snow I turned on the wipers and "snap!", off went the driver's side blade. Turns out I did some other kind of damage b/c ever since replacing the blade it goes slightly past the edge of the windshield and falls off the edge of the car. Sometimes it goes so far as to fall off and catch on the left side of the car. Otherwise it is fully functional. Are there any ways to adjust the distance the mechanism travels?

    Thanks!
    Zachal
  • I have a 1993 protege that started rite up. It was sitting for a few months I replaced the battery and now its not getting any power no dome light nothing I replaced the con">nections to both pos and neg termals but still nothing does anyone know what else it could be
  • tim220tim220 Posts: 1
    have head lights, battery is good - no power to the ignition, starter, windows, or radio
  • Turning the ignition key results in nothing. No lights on the dash, no clicks or other noises in the starting system. Battery is good (12.65 volts), but I tried to jump start it anyway with no luck. Fuses all look good under the hood and there's power into the fuse box. Could it be a relay? Ignition switch? Is the ignition switch in the key cylinder or is it separate and connected by a rod like in Fords and GMs?
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