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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • I got a 2k ES and I have not gotten any letter about a warranty extension on the MAF. Only one was the ignition coil recall. Should I have gotten the MAF letter as well. Let me know if I need to contact mazda about this. Thanks.
  • Can you (or anyone else) give me some guidance on how to replace a defective doorlock actuator? And about how much does the package cost? We can take this to private email is you like...
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    I think that only affected some 1.6L Proteges. I don't think the ES with its 1.8L engine is affected.
  • Thanks for the info. Got about 5 mos left on warranty so I want to keep up with any new(old) developments concerning such issues.
  • I received the letter regarding the MAF recall, but right now its more of an occasional nuisance than a problem.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    after bieng completely warmed up, when I shift into first or reverse, the rpm drops to like 600, bounces up to 750 and then comes to 700 but still fluctuating little bit. I never saw this before. My idle was always very stable.

    The problem is also more apprent when putting it in reverse. Also see this happening when the car comes to stop at a traffic light.

    Any ideas what is going on?
  • What type of engine do you have, the 1.6, 1.8, or 2.0?
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    it is a 1.8L ...'99 ES
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Sounds like the symptoms my 1.6L was experiencing. My dealership shop confirmed it was the MAS that was failing ("reading low", even after they adjusted the idle, cleaned the throttle body etc.). I just had to pay for the diagnosis portion (about 30 minutes). The MAS and labor associated with replacing it was covered under the extended warranty.

    You might want them to diagnose the issue. It only took the technician working on my car about half an hour. They charge $75/hr, so it was about $38 including some consumables and new parts. It might be you just need to have the idle adjusted or the throttle body cleaned (they did these to eliminate these as causes).

    BTW, anything that causes the MAS to read low will cause your mpg to fall (I was getting something like 22-25mpg...I usually get 28mpg on mostly local driving). The fuel/air mixture is too rich. This isn't good for your catalytic converter or oxygen sensor either.
  • h109h109 Posts: 36
    I have had the car for litlle over 2 years now and notice one thing for sure after getting the MAF replaced a couple of weeks ago. The shifting is much smoother, especially between the first and second. The hesitation has noticably reduced. As I do not know much about car mechanisms, I always blamed the hesitation on the low power of the 1.6L. The mileage though, has always been about 31-32mpg with mixed driving all this time.

    When I went in to the dealership after my CEL came on, the service manager told me that I "could've" got it replaced earlier.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    looks like the MAF to me too....
    i avg around 22-24 with 80% city driving.
  • It depends on exactly what it is you have done to your intake. If you still have the original air flow sensor, and it is failing, then they should replace it without issue.
  • I dont see an advantage to doing it yourself if you are not sure what you are getting into. You will have to pay for the new part regardless, and the dealer shouldnt charge you more than an hour for the labor. ($65-$85) If you break something, or put it back together wrong trying to replace the actuator you will be the one having to pay for it. If the dealer should break something, or make a mistake, they will pay for it. If I could tell all car owners one thing, it would be "pay me now or pay me later!"
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    If I could tell all car owners one thing...

    Not all but maybe quite a few.
  • ram22ram22 Posts: 15
    I have a 2001 Maxda Protege LX 2.0 auto trans with 21,000 miles on it.
    It has recently developed a problem where the steering wheel vibrates/shakes when I go above 65 mph on the freeway. This vibration was not present earlier and the car was very smooth.
    I feel that this problem started after my car got stuck in some thick snow in front of my apt once or twice and we pushed it out a bit and handled it roughly. I don't know anything about cars. What could be the reason for this ? I have not yet asked the dealer. Kindly shoot an email to also.
    Thank you very much !
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    It sounds like there's snow stuck inside your wheels causing an imbalance. Get the snow (probably ice by now) and the vibrating should stop.
  • ram22ram22 Posts: 15
    How do I check and remove the snow/ice from inside the wheels ?
    Do you mean to say the inner surface of the wheels under the car ?
    Will a carwash help to get rid of the snow/ice ?

    Kindly let me know.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    If it's above 0 C (32 F) then I'd say a car wash would probably work.

    If you have steel rims, I guess you could take off the hub caps and knock the snow out.

    Hope that helps!
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    Mike is right: You must have snow INSIDE the steel wheels.

  • unless you are a tech or get your vehicle serviced at the dealer regularly, then it still applies...........
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