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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    They bought out most of the Firestone/Bridgestone stores in VA back in 1997 and wouldn't honor road hazard warranties for tire purchased in the same store before it was bought out. People are so stupid. I can think of no way better to assure I won't be back to buy my next set of tires there. I like to stick to independent, local shops. At least that way I know where I stand. I suppose it would be different if I purchased Goodyears, or other mainstream brands.
  • latinladylatinlady Posts: 1
    I bought a new 2002 LS Aut. Does anyone wishes to tell me what good things to expect, or troublesome areas to be attentive of? I've had such bad luck with all my cars ...
    Thanks a lot.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I think you should expect a relatively toruble free experience with your Protege. The key is to follow the maintenance schedule. Other than that, be sure to have fun driving it!
  • I noticed two electeic fans on the radiator, but only one was on! Are these set to progressively some on as the temp increases? The engine was running so hot, hot day, A/C on, etc. It never seemed to get this hot before. NO blown fuses, the fan turns freely by hand, but both don't come on together. Anyone know about this, TIA for any help.

    Also, what type on coolant should go in a coolant change, being an all aluminum block?
  • First, the coolant: 50/50 Prestone (the green stuff) and water. Use distilled water: Tap water will make calcium carbonate deposits in your block - bad . Make sure that you fill the radiator (with the car COLD!!!) through the radiator cap slowly to avoid trapping air bubbles, and then make sure that the reservoir is in the FULL mark (again, when the engine is COLD).

    As for the fans, they should both run. One is for the A/C, one for cooling the engine. If the engine is overheating (the temperature needle past the middle of the range - it usually sits just below half in mine), then the fan should definitely be on. The A/C fan will go on and off, depending on the temperature inside the cabin (I may be wrong about this, the fan may stay on and the compressor disengage...). In any case, if cold air is coming out of the vents and the engine is on the hot side, both fans should be one.

    It is relatively easy to check if the fans are kaput or the relays that turn them on are kaput. Simply unplug the fan from the harness and connect a battery to it (note the polarity when you do this, and ask for help if you are not comfortable doing it...). If the fan works fine, it should turn. If they do, and you still don't see them both coming on, your relays may be bad (many other things may be bad, but that is the first thing after the fan...).

    One more thing: Check the blades on the fan (do not even put the key in the ignition to do this if you'd like to have all your 10 fingers afterwards!). I had a cracked blade in the fan of my old GLC and would not cool worth crap.

    Hope this helps,

    G.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    Both keyless entry remotes for my 2003 Protege5 have stopped working. Since both have ceased to function, it leads me to believe that the problem is on the receiver side, not the remote transmitter side. I have no doubt this is somehow related to the dealer's less than stellar installation skill when putting in the auto-dimming mirror with compass. They reinstalled that recently. The problem is we are almost 4000 miles from the next oil change, so I guess we will have to make a another special trip to get it fixed.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    It took the service advisor all of 5 seconds to fix the keyless entry problems I was having. Essentially, the remotes got out of sync with the receiver. He claimed it was pretty rare. I'm just happy I didn't have to leave the car.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    After 4 years of living with this problem on my 99 ES, it is finally fixed.

    The problem: Engine jolts/jerks when A/C compressor is engaged.

    The cause: Leaky intake manifold gasket

    Solution: Replaced Gasket.

    It took 4 years for Mazda to figure out this!!!!!

    Jerry Standefer, u listening? Get your car checked.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    That guy is loooong gone. Sold his soul and the rights to his car to Racing Beat or some like outfit over a year ago. Last I heard his 99 Protege was converted into a turbo-charged monster truck. :-)))

    -old head
  • gandrigogandrigo Posts: 87
    99 protege 1.6L
    My car is headed into the shop tomorrow to have the control links from the front sway bar changed for a second time. the first set lasted 50000km, the second less than 20000km. the first time I had them changed the service rep told me this was a common occurrence. While still under warranty this is more of a hassle than anything else, but ultimately I fear paying for these things on a yearly basis. Clearly there is a flaw in the design, or something else is wrong with the front end causing premature failure. I do corner aggressively, but isn't that part of the reason for getting a Protege? Has anyone else experienced this problem? Any insight or advice would be appreciated
    thanks
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    never heard of this problem with anybody on either of the board I frequent, edmunds bieng one.
  • rogerb7rogerb7 Posts: 12
    I too have bucking problems, but only when engaging the clutch from a stopped position into 1st gear. I have an 01 ES, never had this occur with many other manual shift cars I've owned over the years. It goes away after engine warms up but is annoying.

    Does anyone know for sure if there is a TSB on this problem? Is the dealer obligated to tell you? I checked the NHTSA website but couldn't find one for this problem.

    FYI, it's http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm

    Also on a long trip after a/c was running for about 8 hours, it air was not as cool. After several hours should it be turned off for a while?
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Posts: 348
    Hi everyone. It seems I may be having my first Pro related problem. My car is a 2000 ES, 5-speed, with 74,500 kilometres. The car has been problem free to date, except for recently.

    Here is what is happening. Essentially, my idle appears to be sticking sporadically, both while in gear and if the car is in neutral. For instance, if I am cruising at 60km an hour and take my foot off the gas, the engine will start to brake itself slowly, but when it hit's between 1,500 and 2,000rpm, the idle sticks and the engine stops braking itself. The affected idle seems to be in the 1500rpm to 200rpm range. I have also been able to simulate this problem by placing the car in neutral and slowly hitting the accelerator to about 1,750rpm and then removing the throttle. The idle will come back down to about 1,500rpm and then stay stuck in that position as opposed to coming back down to 700rpm which is the usual engine idle speed. I can "unstick" the idle in this state by tapping the accelerator quickly causing a brief rpm spike which causes it to drop back to 700rpm.

    Please also note that if I brake while in gear, the idle does not stick and will come back down as per the engine speed. However, I do notice and feel the extra effort on the brakes since the engine is not, in effect, assisting the braking as it normally would.

    I have also noticed that the engine performance is a little sluggish also. Not horribly so, but my wife and I both notice the difference. This problem is occurring when the engine is cold or warmed up and the check engine light has not come on and my engine temp is running the same as always.

    So, my question is whether anyone has experienced this before with their Pro? Or, might know if this relates to any recalls or TSB's, or just has an idea what might be causing this based on mechanical knowledge.

    All input/feedback would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Tim
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Mine acts like this when I have my air conditioning (or defroster, which uses the a/c compressor) on. But it's closer to the lower end of your rpm scale, and after a few seconds at a stop, it returns to normal idle rpm on its own. But I can make it return early by tapping the accelerator.

    Meade
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Posts: 348
    Hey!!! Actually, it has been happening with the AC off. I too have a similiar thing that happens with the AC. Usually it sticks a tad and it tends to add about 100rpm more at idle so that she is running about 800rpm as opposed to 700rpm. This occurrence is pretty normal as AC systems put a lot of drain on small displacement 4 bangers. You would lose engine performance and have quite the engine lag.

    Oddly, what I am encountering is very similiar to the AC situation. I first noticed it when my wife and I had to drive downtown a few days ago and were stuck in traffic for an hour. The whole time we were basically in first and second gear. It was after this that I noted a problem.

    We took the Pro into work today and of course, she ran perfectly. I was planning to take it into the dealer today too, but I would like to be able to replicate the problem.

    Question: Could this be at all related to the MAS (Mass Airflow Sensor) and was there a recall on the MAS with the 1.8L? I know there was for the 1.6L, but thought I remembered someone mentioning a recall on the 1.8L.

    Thanks Meade.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    I don't recall (pun intended, naturally) seeing anything about a MAF sensor concern with our 1.8s, nor has mine given me any trouble in just shy of 60,000 miles. But there was a recall on our ignition coil module. Mine wasn't giving me any trouble, but I had it done anyway. Only took about an hour.

    To date no one has told me WHY the module was recalled, so I have no idea whether that could have any bearing on what you're experiencing.

    Have you had yours replaced?

    Meade
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Posts: 348
    really love a good punn. Nice one. :)

    Like you, I did have the ignition coil replaced and like your Pro, ours did not have any of the symptoms associated with the recall.

    I decided not to go to the dealership today and will see if this was an isolated incident, or the precursor to something more sinister. Obviously, I would like to be able to replicate the problem, or have the engine demonstrate the sluggishness when i turn it over to the dealer to look at...
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Sounds like an electrical, not mechanical, issue to me. It may be the MAS, but have you tried resetting your ECU by disconnecting the battery from it for over 10s? If those aren't the culprits, there are a lot of sensors that may be causing your ECU to decide to keep the engine speed up. For instance, your O2 sensor may cause the engine to run fast to heat up the catalytic converter faster etc. I'd pay your local TRUSTWORTHY service shop to diagnose the problem. Electrical problems can be a pain to trace.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Hmm. Never had a problem with mine. I corner aggressively sometimes, but not constantly. The Pro is fun to tackle curves with, but it's still not a racing car.
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