Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

18586889091122

Comments

  • bob91bob91 Posts: 1
    Hi
    I have a 1999 protege with 75K miles. My wife drove the car all day no problems. We get in the car this morning back out of the garage, put it in drive and step on the gas and nothing. The car will not move. If you rev the car to around 2500 RPM it will just roll back into the garage. Also the overdrive light is blinking. Any ideas what could be wrong??
    Thanks
    Bob
  • dp4646dp4646 Posts: 1
    have a 2003 protege5 for about 4 months with 30000 miles on it. Twice in this period of time the number 4 spark plug got bent. Meaning somehow the tip of the plug got pushed up and the gap was reduced to zero. This caused missfiring and replacing the plug solved the problem but it's happened twice. It's like something is hitting the end of the plug and pushing the eletrode up. But as far as I know, it can't be the piston or the valves so I'm thinking there is something inside the cylinder but don't know what it could be or where it came from.

    Any ideas???
  • chump2chump2 Posts: 8
    my daughter was having the same problems with her 2001 protege as the person posted at #2675 i cleaned the throttle body and it is good but now thw engine light stays on do i need to bring it to a dealer to reset or will it go off on its own . i have driven the car for about a 1/2 hour and it did not go off. can any one help ?
  • New poster here, so I apologize in advance if this is redundant.
    I had a 1990 Protege that I loved...it lasted for 11 years. When it finally went to auto heaven, I bought a 2000 ES and have had multiple problems: radiator needed to be replaced after 2 years, fortunately covered by warranty; after 3 years and about 56,000 miles, found out the front struts were leaking--not covered by warranty; 1 week after I made my last payment and the warranty expired, the transmission died (at about 65000 miles) and of course I had to pay out of pocket for that repair. I've been most dissatisfied with this car overall, quite a difference from my first one.
    Here's my big question: for the past 2.5 years, I've had a grinding/scraping noise that comes from the right front wheel and occurs as I'm coming to a stop and I have my foot on the brake. It's been seen by multiple Mazda and non-Mazda mechanics who can't seem to find the cause. I've had wheel bearings replaced, brakes replaced, rotors redone, etc etc and all to no avail. It has cost me several thousand dollars in car repairs and car rentals (not to mention the hours of time bringing the car to be serviced and picking up/returning rentals...and time is what I can least afford to be wasting now) and the noise keeps coming back, sometimes after several weeks or months, sometimes within hours of driving away from the auto service site. People keep telling me its safe to drive, but if no one knows what's causing the noise, how can anyone be so certain it's safe?! Can you tell I've just about had it with this car? I'm about ready to trade it in for another make of car. You all are my last resort. Any thoughts/ideas/advice would be appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    for the past 2.5 years, I've had a grinding/scraping noise that comes from the right front wheel and occurs as I'm coming to a stop and I have my foot on the brake ... It's been seen by multiple Mazda and non-Mazda mechanics who can't seem to find the cause. I've had wheel bearings replaced, brakes replaced, rotors redone, etc

    Sorry to hear of your travails!
    Did you buy the car new?
    When you say brakes replaced, what specifically did that include? Do you mean brake pads or more than that? Were the rotors turned or replaced?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Assuming the brake system is entirely checked out, also investigate your CV joints.

    I had a similar noise on my '89 323, and it was due to rust on one rotor gathering due to a brake caliper freezing (enough that it limited travel of the caliper, which also reduced braking capability) due to rust around the brake's piston. Amazing what can freeze together when you don't drive a car often enough (I had a rear brake drum also freeze...I managed to break it free by driving back and forth until the caked dust inside the drum broke apart).

    Also, can a passenger confirm the noise comes from the front-right? I've had noises that seemed to come from one corner that actually came from another due to the way noise moves around in the car.
  • Did you buy the car new?
    When you say brakes replaced, what specifically did that include? Do you mean brake pads or more than that? Were the rotors turned or replaced?

    Assuming the brake system is entirely checked out, also investigate your CV joints.
    I had a similar noise on my '89 323, and it was due to rust on one rotor gathering due to a brake caliper freezing (enough that it limited travel of the caliper, which also reduced braking capability) due to rust around the brake's piston. Amazing what can freeze together when you don't drive a car often enough (I had a rear brake drum also freeze...I managed to break it free by driving back and forth until the caked dust inside the drum broke apart).

    Also, can a passenger confirm the noise comes from the front-right? I've had noises that seemed to come from one corner that actually came from another due to the way noise moves around in the car.
    ******************************************************************************************- *****
    Yes to all of the above: the car was bought new. I've had the brakes pads and the entire brake system replaced. The rotors have been turned, then replaced.
    The CV joints have been checked. And yes the noise comes from the right front, confirmed by mechanics and nonmechanics alike (this has been a 2 1/2 year journey!).
    There has been some conjecture that the noise might be caused by dirt within the brakes that needs to be cleaned occasionally, but even when that is done the noise returns.
  • My 2002 Protege LX with only 45,000 miles, is now waiting a tow in a parking lot. I turned it on, it turned over once, then died. No power whatsoever. Tried a jump, no good. Checked the battery with a volt meter and it's fully charged. There's no lights or anything electrical working. When I turn the ignition key, funny lights flicker in the odometer readout area. (t's and e's). My son drives a 17 year old Subaru, and I'm the one breaking down! (I really bought a Ford, didn't I? Sure does act like one.)

    Anyone have any ideas as to what broke? (Besides me becoming broke since I now have a tow charge and repair bill coming my way.)
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    No, you did not buy a Ford. Proteges were built in Japan with 98 percent Japanese parts. But thanks for playing. :)

    Why do you have a repair bill coming? Unlike Ford, your Protege has a 4 year/50,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranty. According to what you said, your car is only three years old and still has 5,000 miles left on its warranty anyway.

    But never mind the warranty. This doesn't sound like anything more than a no-brainer that you can do yourself:

    My guess is your battery cables are loose or corroded. Remove them, clean off the battery terminals and the connectors, and you should be good to go. Yes, it just may be that simple. Nothing else would explain why your lights aren't working even though your battery is fully charged -- and the intermittent odometer display sure makes it look like an intermittent battery connection.

    Meade
  • bluem6ibluem6i Posts: 77
    Why do you have a repair bill coming? Unlike Ford, your Protege has a 4 year/50,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranty. According to what you said, your car is only three years old and still has 5,000 miles left on its warranty anyway.


    The 2002's have a 3 year 50 K warranty...
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    The 2002's have a 3 year 50 K warranty...

    ... depending on when you bought it. If you bought your 2002 prior to May, then yes, you're right. If you bought it in June or after, it's a four-year warranty.

    In any case, I still think your problem is a minor one, however. Do keep us informed.

    Meade
  • There are devices that test a battery "under load", and that is the only way to adequately test a battery. A voltmeter does not do this.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Organic pads can be noisy. Try a semi-metallic or ceramic pad material. Both will wear down the rotors faster, but they make less noise and fade less with prolonged use. They cost a bit more too.

    I think Mazda pads are semi-metallic. At least the new ones I ordered looked semi-metallic to me.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I assume that the Mazda techs have looked at the main sleeves and the guide plate configurations on the front brakes. For the 90-97 Protege Models there are TSBs concerning front brake noise caused by zinc plated sleeves (replaced with chrome plated ones) and guide plates that need to have claws bent inward at the correct angle. These same sleeves can also cause a popping noise (one pop per wheel rotation) when coming to a stop. A popping noise when simultaneously turning and braking at higher speeds is considered normal.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I was fearing that the shudder I was having at low-end RPMs in fourth or fifth gears was caused by a clutch going bad. It turns out that it was just the number 2 spark plug wire being defective. I tested them all for resistance with a multi-meter. I also replaced the cap and rotor as the contacts were worn.

    If anyone buys the cap and rotor from AutoZone, be aware that they have the wrong parts listed in their computer for the '95-'98 models. I found the correct match at O'Reilly Auto parts using Borg Warner components. Advanced Auto Parts had the best price for the Bosch spark plug wires, but since they wern't in stock I got them from Rock Auto much sooner for just a few dollars more.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Anyone who's been hanging around here a few years knows I've been on my soapbox about Protege plug wires for YEARS. I owned two 1992 Protege LX's and a 2000 ES, and right now a 2002 Protege5 and a 2005 Mazda3 are in my driveway. Because of their engine design, with the plugs down inside little tunnels inside the valve cover, and the fact that there's a lot of heat down there (and moisture can get down there too), Protege engines need to have their plug wires replaced every 30,000 to 40,000 miles. I've been through the plug-wire-breakdown thing, and believe me, not only is it NOT FUN when it happens -- it's also bad for your engine to be running on less than its full complement of cylinders!

    Spending $60 every 30,000 miles on a new set of plug wires is good insurance -- and it'll make your engine run more smoothly and last longer.

    Replace those plug wires!

    Meade

    P.S. If you're looking for a good match, try the parts department at your Mazda dealer. When I last replaced mine (about a year ago), they were about $45 for a questionable set from NAPA -- which I wound up having to return because the connectors were the wrong kind (even though they were the correct part number for my car) -- or $60 for an OEM set from Mazda. I opted to spend $15 over 30K miles for the real deal. And the ones from Mazda carry a 12-month, 12,000-mile warranty.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I like Mazda parts for the perfect fit and I tolerate the higher price when I have no other choice. I also use aftermarket parts for the convenience of close part stores and lower prices. Some are good and some not so good (AutoZone example). The Bosch aftermarket plug wires are well-made and come with a lifetime warranty. Since my last set of Bosch wires only lasted 4 years, I will be taking them up on this.

    As far as price, Advanced Auto had the Bosch #09421 wire set for $22 + $5 shipping if not in warehouse and Rock Auto was $31.90 including shipping.
  • I dont know if anyone has had this problem but i just bought a 1998 protege lx and when I shift to 2nd it will not go... even if i have the pedal all the way to the floor. I almost got hit getting on the road cause i wasn't getting any kind of acceleration... my dad thinks it might not be getting enough fuel... got any advice :confuse:
  • Well, the piston hitting the plug would be the most likely cause, although your car is pretty new for a piton or rod to go bad. could it be that the plug is screwing down lower than it should? Check the distance from the top of the installed pug to the top of the valve cover. What could have gotten into the combustion chamber, unless something was dropped in there when the plug was changed?
  • Hello all,

    I have a 2001 Protege and the audio system is broken. Now I have a Cd player deck and need a car audio installation kit for protege?

    Do you know where I can find one?

    Thanks,

    B.Insel
  • I have the same problems with my 99 automatic protege. After it gets to 25-30 it holds back. I could be going be on the highway going 60 and it will start holding back, with my foot to the floor. My father has also said it could be something with the fuel filter or something. Have you figured out the problem yet?
  • The tale of two Proteges.

    We have two 2000 Proteges, mine is a 2000 1.6L 5-speed that is flawless (probably because it doesn't see winter and does an average of 7000 kms a year.) I'm hoping to run this car for another ten years.

    The other is a 2000 1.8L automatic that is used year-round for average use. Lately, we have had some problems with this car related to steering and starting. The steering gives off a very loud creaking sound when you turn the wheels. Our mechanic couldn't find the source without tearing the steering apart, but suspects that is is from a bushing. Anyone have this problem as well? Also, the engine takes a good five seconds to start after it has been sitting for a while. I suspect a weak battery (its the original) but I just wanted to throw it out there for anyone else.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    How many miles are on the car? Have you replaced your plug wires?

    Meade
  • On my 01 Protege the air conditioner has a musty, slight mildew smell from it. Will servicing the a/c help any? Also when I have the a/c on, theres a faint hissing or "air deflating" noise; is this normal?
  • I have a 2002 Protege 5, just bought end of May 2005, only has 19k mi on it. Currently I am having a problem with my E-brake light not going off, or not staying off. It either stays on after i release the e brake, or it goes off briefly and comes back on again. I am having no problems braking or accelerating, but the light on worries me. Any suggestions as to the cause or solution?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Cause: A problem in your braking system.

    Solution: Take the car to your dealership or a good mechanic. NOW.

    It's not just an "e-brake" light. It's a brake system warning light.

    Meade
  • the stereo was stolen from my mspeed 2003.5 protege and one of the heating/AC control cables is missing. I need a schematic or diagram of the control cables and system

    thanks
    RFisher
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Betcha it's the same dash as in the 2002 Protege5! Here's its shop manual:

    http://protege5.ugly.net/

    ... And I'll bet you find what you need here:

    http://protege5.ugly.net/07-40.PDF

    Meade
  • I just bought a used 2000 Mazda Protege with 78 K on it. It was in very good condition. Safety certified, e-tested, and we had a mechanic check it out before buying it, who said it was in perfect condition.

    Now, two weeks later the brakes are squealing (which means we will need new brakes-UG!!) and there is a scraping sound coming from the engine with acceleration between 0 and 80 km/h. Anything over that (highway driving) it's fine. I also revved the engine in park, and reproduced the scraping sound. It's coming from the front under the hood. I lifted the hood and couldn't find anything obvious that was loose. It's gotten a lot worse in the last three days.

    Any idea what it could be? We really are BROKE from buying this car, and can't afford serious repairs if we can help it. Can anyone point me in a direction to look? I'm more familiar with older cars (80's) and their repair. I don't know as much about newer cars.

    Anything ANYONE could suggest would be great!
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Check Crutchfield.com. They offer a lot of information on what fits and usually have wire harness adapters that save you time and effort crimping & soldering. There are other on-line resources and of course, Best Buy and Circuit City also offer equipment that will fit and usually include the installation.
Sign In or Register to comment.