Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

19192949697122

Comments

  • robvanerobvane Posts: 1
    I've just bought a 2002 Protege LX. The car seems perfectly fine EXCEPT when I'm in my driveway (slight upward incline). I put the car in Drive and gently touch the accelerator to move the car into the garage - the engine races to about 2000 rpm even with my foot on the brake. I can only stop the engine revving by putting the car into neutral or turning the key to off.

    Any help appreciated. Thanks.
  • gyounggyoung Posts: 1
    Did you ever find a solution to your Protege failing the CA smog test? I just tested mine yesterday (1996 model) and it failed. Mechanic said he would try to reset the memory on the computer. Final diagnosis is it that there is a computer problem that needs to be fixed by the dealer. Any thoughts or insights?
  • today23today23 Posts: 2
    I have had the same problem. It seems to have been trouble with the electronics departing from the key. Have your mechanic check out the wiring diagrams. There should be three wires departing from the key and one input. One of the wires leads to the defrost, wipers; the second leads to the signal lights and the dash indicators (where my problem was, where yours probably will be), and the third for the stereo system. The second wire will also lead to the engine. The second wire (blue/white on my 98) is probably faulty. SO! What we did was install a by-pass from the input to the second wire's breaker, and everything has been fine since then. Have your mecanic check if the second wire is corroded. It may be something very inexpensive. If your car is having the same problem as mine (and so may be fixed the same way), youll have these "symptoms":
    -car stalls, when try to restart, turns over but does not catch
    -cannot restart for a period of time (mine was only 5-10 minutes)
    -signal lights do not work, dash indicators do not work
    -stereo works fine, dash lights work fine

    From what I understood in your post, it seems like the same thing. Have mecanic check electrical diagrams surrounding key. Dont check out the gas filter until youve tried this. Way cheaper and probably the problem. Good luck! ;)
  • shhzoeshhzoe Posts: 2
    Thanks Much!
  • jeff41jeff41 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 2.0 ES Auto with 110,000 km. I really enjoy my car and has been very reliable, but there is an annoying humming and vibration that starts to be heard at 50 km/h. It disappears when I turn the steering wheel to the left I have just replaced the coils, but the irritating sound is still there. I have gone to my local dealer twice, but they say there is "no problem, it is fine." I have never heard this sound in five years that I have had the car. It has been stealth quiet until this point. What do you think?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    That's usually a symptom of a defective left front wheel bearing.
  • kbinatlkbinatl Posts: 2
    I have a 99 LX (1.6 liter), with ~72k. Two weeks ago, I had the EGR system cleaned as result of a P0402 OBD code. Now, the light is back on, code is the same. Mechanic says it may have to do with solenoid sensors. Has anyone else had repeated problems? What was the solution? A new EGR valve costs over $200 (for the part only).
  • Sending out a message to HBOYD (hboyd). I am having the same problem with my 2000 protege ES. The O/D light flashes followed by the check engine light and the automatic transmission shifts rough. Could you please tell me which of the solenoids it is with regards to the vehicle, front-right or so on. Mazda people can't seem to figure out which solenoid "E" and they keep telling me to just replace the tranny. Also, could you tell me which internet sight you got your new part from. Thanks for your time. I'll be watching this sight for your reply.
  • kelbelkelbel Posts: 1
    Hopefully, someone can give me advice! I have an 2003 DX and it's been acting real funny. The check engine light keeps coming on and off. It seems that when I come to a compleate stop, it idles low and suputters and finally stalling out. I am able to turn it over and start it again right away. No other weird sounds or smells...anyone ever had this happen? It only has 40,000 miles on it...I am a bit suprized something like this has happend..thanks in advance!
  • rboetsmarboetsma Posts: 2
    62000 miles on a 99 ES. When I start the car I hear a whistling or a winding noise coming from the engine. It gets louder when I give it gas and continues when I drive it. It's not a wind noise at speed it an all the time winding whistling. Some people say it sounds like it has a turbo in it and to leave it. I think they are idiots...
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    Some possibilities include: vacuum hose leak, cracked or torn PCV valve rubber grommet, or maybe a small crack in the exhaust manifold.
  • hboydhboyd Posts: 98
    No... chances are close to NONE that you need a new ATX! Don't let the stealerships fool you. Go to a reputable, independant local ATX repair shop. Get a referral from a friend or AAA-approved garage. I got a shop to read the PCM/TCM DTCs for me using a pro OBD II scanner (Snap-on Redbox). Mazda dealer will do it too for 2x $$. GET the DTC number!! Critical for diagnosis. Then you or your mechanic can troubleshoot the solenoids effectively. It's a cinch with a multi-tester from RadioShack.

    BTW, there is only ONE Shift 'E' solenoid on our ATXs! But you will have ONE of three Shift 'E' DTCs: P0771, P0772 or P0773. Without going into great detail, P0771 and P0772 lead to control valve assembly problems -- a moderate repair operation. P0773 is an "easy" one -- bad electrical on the Shift 'E' solenoid. More than likely its a dead solenoid (that's what happened in my case). Easy to pull and replace during a routine ATX service where the pan is dropped. OEM part is about $75 discounted (f/Montgomery Mazda in Charlotte, NC -- simply awesome parts service and advice via website arm). Recommend doing a complete ATX service at same time.

    Check ATX fluid level and condition first! If fluid is dirty, it may have contributed to problem. Above all, many Mazda dealerships don't do ATX repairs anymore. They simply change out the ATX. Get the code and we'll go from there. The approx. repair costs are about $150 for OEM parts/fluid and about 2 hours of mechanical labor (say $85/hour = $170). I did my repair myself... but had loads of time and an extra vehicle to use while the car was on stands in the garage all week.
  • hboydhboyd Posts: 98
    More than likely, it's the dreaded "stuck open" EGR code and issue plaging our Proteges. Get the DTC code read ASAP. Here is a Mazda M-tip that may be applicable:

    ROUGH IDLE - DTC P0300, EGR VALVE STICKING OPEN
    Applicable Models
    2001 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
    2002 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
    2003 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
    Symptoms
    020 ENGINE HARD START
    030 ROUGH IDLE
    050 ENG. STALLS DRVING-WILL RESTART
    620 DOES NOT TURN OFF/WARNING LIGHT
    MTOL - 4166 Dealer Repair Information
    Symptoms and Conditions
    Some customers may experience an intermittent or constant rough idle
    with MIL illumination and DTC P0300 and/or P0401 being stored in memory.

    This condition may be the result of rust accumulation on the EGR valve shaft causing the valve stick open. A shield has been added to the valve's body to prevent reoccurrence of this condition.

    Repair Procedure
    When you encounter a vehicle with this concern inspect the EGR valve for this condition and if necessary replace the valve with the improved part.

    EGR VALVE Part No. FSY1-20-300-9U
    Gasket Part No. JE27-20-305A

    -- FYI: the EGR valve can also be cleaned thoroughly with carbon cleaner and reinstalled. If vehicle is under warranty, get dealership to perform this check and necessary replacement. Could also be dirty/sticking IAC solenoid assembly. I had both cleaned on my 2001 2.0 ES and solved a rough idling/near stall condition. Give me more details.
  • hboydhboyd Posts: 98
    P0402 = EGR Flow excessive detected

    Chances are more than anything that it may be a bad seal between the EGR assembly and intake manifold. Probably a bad metal gasket or mechanic failed to adequately tighten unit/re-install gasket. This is critical to get a proper seal. These are the first things to check as per workshop manual. Was the EGR spring valve fully inspected for proper mechanical operation and lubed? Was EGR solenoid electrical resistance checked? Don't replace any parts until deemed failed or impractical to repair!
  • civiletticiviletti Posts: 86
    It could be the serpentine belt or one of the components driven by it. Rig up a stethoscope [rubber tube, perhaps] and see if you can localize the sound. Be careful, though!
  • gemeni71gemeni71 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2003 lx, the light was working fine and now it's gone. Taking it in to see? Any solution to yours.
  • hboydhboyd Posts: 98
    For anybody with a rough/rolling idle issue, inspect and clean your IAC (Idle Air Control) valve solenoid assembly. You only have to remove two, tamper-resistant T-25 screws on top of the IAC valve solenoid. The bypass valve plunger gets a lot of carbon build-up and sticks to the body. I carefully cleaned mine with some Deep Creep and did a SeaFoam intake treatment. Smoothed out the idle very well. May not solve all idle issues, but worked on my 2.0L w/68K. [I also changed plugs to OEM NGK V-Power and inspected/cleaned EGR.] I wouldn't waste my money on expensive, unnecessary, often over-pushed Mazda dealer services if you're off warranty.
  • porstechporstech Posts: 1
    sounds like your lower control arm bushings are broken or you have a broken motor mount
  • ja25caja25ca Posts: 1
    I'm pretty sure this is the problem the check engine light is on and this is the code. How hard is it to replace the EGR valve on a 97 mazda protege. I'd like to know if there are any tricks or special tools to get the existing off and put the new one on correctly. Should I get the gasket as well? It looks like two bolts and it should slip right off, but on the mount between the plug for the electrical and the housing that fits into the engine there appear to be 4 screws. Do these need to come off to get the EGR out?

    I'm a non-mechanic, but am handy. About how long should it take me worst case.

    Thanks,
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    This is pretty easy to do. I replaced mine on my '95 Protege as the new part was only around $75. The old one was clogged up with carbon deposits. I used some swivel attachments for my ratchet and sockets to get the nuts off. I don't remember buying a seperate gasket, but it has been several years. The replacement part for my '95 1.5L was Borg Warner EGR1122.

    I suppose you could carefully clean the old one out and put it back in if the replacement part is really expensive.

    You are also supposed to clean out any ports when doing an EGR job. This is actually hard to do given the location of the EGR valve behind the intake manifold. I did the best I could with a small rag, an old toothbrush, and some solvent.

    You can also get some auto shops to clean out the EGR valve and the port with a chemical cleaner. Ideally, this should be done every 30K-50K miles before the carbon buildup is heavy and tough to remove.

    194K miles and still running great!
  • sambo4sambo4 Posts: 22
    I had a similiar problem with my Protege..."O/D Off" light
    followed by the transmission shifting abruptly into 2nd gear. This would happen every 5 minutes or so, especially with a cold engine, strangely enough. When warm, it would do it every 15 min. or so. I let this go on for 2 weeks before taking it into a transmission shop. The manager said he would do a scan, and within 15 min. told me I needed a new tranny. I took it somewhere else for a 2nd opinion, and this time requested a printout with the scan ( it was free either way, so.) Anyways, turned out to be a Throttle-Position Sensor, which caused about $ 200.00 including labour to fix. No problems since.
    By the way, I've got a 2000 Protege with 480,000km. Runs like new!
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,539
    The bolt that holds down my the heat shield on my wife's '00 Protege ES has completely rotted around the head and causes the heat shield to rattle at idle and low speeds. Is it worth replacing this or should I just leave it be? Is there a quick fix for it? The car has 71,000 miles and my wife drives it back and forth to the train station every day plus for some errands around town.

    2001 Honda Prelude Type SH/ 2011 BMW 328xi / 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation

  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I've got a 2000 Protege with 480,000km. Runs like new!
    Wow! Is this the original tranny? If so, I would contact Mazda and let them know you've got one heck of a specimen, they may feature you in a news bulletin and give you something in appreciation. And let the rest of us know how you got nearly half a million kilometres out of your car; we're all ears!
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I assume you mean the heat shield for the exhaust manifold? This shield is necessary because it protects the small electric motors on the radiator fans from getting too hot and failing.

    How do I know this? Because I removed the heat shield after replacing a cracked exhaust manifold and shortly thereafter the secondary radiator fan started to fail. So I replaced the secondary fan with a new one and then put the heat shield back on.

    Live and Learn!
  • sreidsreid Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 protege with a major water leak. A substantial amount of water is pooling on the passenger side floor. I have been experimenting with a hoze and my guess is that the water is coming in around the air intake under the windshield. The majority of the water seems to be dripping onto the floor from the fan box under the dash. Has anybody had similar problems?? Any advice??
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Have you had any work done on your windshield? What does the area around the perimeter of the windshield look like? Does the surface have any bubbles appearing in the metal? If so, rust might have set in and the water may be leaking through a hole there. It's difficult to see directly because it is likely covered by the windshield gasket (i.e. the thing holding the windshield in place); what the bubbles show is that there may be a "hidden" problem.
  • sreidsreid Posts: 2
    I already had a guy at apple auto glass have a look at the windshield, he said there's no problem with it. There is far too much water getting in for it to be the windshild anyway.
    I took the plastic grille beneath the window off and put the hoze in the gutter there, water was still coming in.
  • sambo4sambo4 Posts: 22
    Yes everything is original (engine, tranny, exhaust, etc.),with the exception of the timing belt ( changed at 250K for precautionary), and the rad, which I changed at 400K, probably due to a lot of city driving,stop& go traffic. I do 80K - 100K per year, and about half is on the highway.
    No secret- just do my own regular maintenance: oil/filter once a month, tranny oil every 4 months, or 30K, spark plugs, air filter, and front pads twice a year, and coolant every year.
    Actually, my previous vehicle, '93 B2200 ( the last REAL Mazda pickup) I sold at 685,000 km. Dealer offered $500, but I sold it privately for $ 1500. On that vehicle I changed the clutch once, at 450K, and the timing belt once, at 505K ( engine was the "non-destructive" type, i.e.,won't harm anything if belt breaks while engine on).
    Does anyone know if the Protege's engine is also the "non-destructive" type?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Yes, it's the non-interference type.
  • I bought a second hand 1996 mazda protege (manual transmission) last november from a private seller. Since then the car was driving smoothly and i already did 2 oil changes.
    Then last week, i noticed that the car began to "stutter" whenever i accelerate from 1st gear to 2nd gear to 3rd gear. I tried reading some articles/posts regarding such problem and most of them indicates that there is a problem with the fuel system (like filter/injector clogged, regulator problem, oxygen sensor problem or the worst case is fuel pump is already worn out).

    At the moment, I'm assuming its just a clogging filter/injector. If so, there are two possible solutions:
    a. use a fuel system cleaner (like Techron or STP)
    b. have the fuel system flushed and replace fuel filter

    My questions are:
    1. is it effective to use a fuel system cleaner like Techron/STP? will it not damage the car's engine or fuel system?
    2. which cleaner brand is the most effective?
    3. if i decide to have it flushed instead, can you recommend car shops (around the san bernardino, CA county) who can provide a good/honest service without overpricing?

    thanks in advance!
Sign In or Register to comment.