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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bluem6ibluem6i Posts: 77
    I had the exact problem and the dealer replaced the falty AC Control Unit (under warranty) with an updated unit. This is a know problem.

    The control unit is in the dash and controls the fan and AC position switches and/or cables. Part # BL8F-190D.

    This was on a 2002 LX.
  • cdh1313cdh1313 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Protege 196K miles. About 8 months ago I had the head gasket replaced. Monday I noticed the overflow "boiling" and the smell of antifreeze. Temp guage seems to be working and normal, no oil in water or water in oil. Replaced cap, no help. Drained radiator, clean and green. Refilled, got to operating temp. and test drove as soon as I got home I opened hood and opened cap, NO PRESSURE? I cannot find any OBVIOUS leaks. Head Gasket? Cracked head? Radiator cracked? Don't know where to go next, HELP! :cry:
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    Here is a thread from a Honda Civic discussion pertaining to the same issue.

    http://www.auto-more.com/detail-347331.html

    You may need to pressure test the radiator to see if it is leaking. If not, the replacement radiator cap could be bad. If not, you could have a cracked or warped head. I would think that whoever replaced the head gasket would have checked this before doing the work.
  • gabby72gabby72 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I am having the same problem with my Mazda Protoge...were you able to fix the problem? I have not had my idle adjusted because I don't know where it is. If you know how I can do this please let me know.
  • lon5lon5 Posts: 3
    Hi..I have a 00 protege LX auto i'm hearing a rattling, clunking sound whenever i go over rough roads..did changed the struts it wasn't it..i just changed the rotors today..and i still hear the rattling noise..its getting me frustrated :mad: ..i read some of the post here could it be the sway bar?..stabilizer link?..control arm?..bushig?...Pls help. :)

    Thnx
  • yea so, its been the longest time since my brakes didnt work too well. i drive it cus i really dont have much of a choice but when i press on the brakes at first, it's really loose. then the more i start to press down it gets tighter and starts to creak. i have no idea as to why it's like this. i hit a curb a few months back maybe thats why, but im not sure. im over a year due for an oil change maybe thats why also.

    please help me out here. :cry:
  • wojoohwojooh Posts: 2
    My son-in-law has exactly the same experience. 1999 Protege with 85,000 miles. What do I need to do to fix it?
  • sambo4sambo4 Posts: 22
    I've had those sounds in the last few years.
    In my experience it was the strut-mounts that were the
    noisest. But I've had to change the stabilizer links as well. The protege's suspension seems to be built more
    for handling rather than soft/luxury ride, so you're
    always going to have a hard bumpy ride with some noise.
    Can you tell if the noise is front or back?
  • lon5lon5 Posts: 3
    To sambo4...the noise is coming on the front passenger side..sorta like something is loose..the strut is new, and rotors..and i'm planning to change the stabilizer link but i want to make sure this time..did the noise disappeared when u changed your stabilizer link?

    thnx :) :)
  • sambo4sambo4 Posts: 22
    You can check your link by raising the car, remove the wheel, and try moving the stabilizer link. It may be loose, or may be broken off one end, like in my case, and it would keep hitting, metal to metal, when I drove over
    a bump.
    When you changed the struts, I hope they checked the strut-mounts, because they can rust out.
  • lon5lon5 Posts: 3
    thx for the help sambo4..i'll try to do it over the weekend.i'll let you know thx
  • kjam143kjam143 Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Protege DX model and I'm having some serious issues. If anyone can help it would be sooooo greatly appreciated. My car won't pass emissions since 3/06. I've had it checked out by many mechanics, state testing facilities and no one can assist me in getting this corrected. I've had the Catalytic converter and exhaust manifold replaced, had the system reset and drove it 1000 miles to reset everything and everytime I go back to the emissions facility, it fails. The same three monitors are never ready: Catalyst, Oxygen Sensor, and the EGR System. I don't know what to do so any advice would help a lot. Also, when she sits for a day or so, she smokes heavily upon starting her up. But she runs like a dream... and that's the tripped out part about it. :confuse: :sick: :cry:
  • harbihoharbiho Posts: 8
    Okay....finally solved the no-start problem. Turns out to be a bad cam sensor.

    As far as the heating is concerned......it still runs hot after running it for a while during 100+deg weather...like right now. When I turn on the heater, the temperature goes down to normal levels. I notice this while going uphill or when sitting in traffic for a while....all during 100+degree weather.

    Radiator maybe? Clogged cat? Anyone?
  • mazdrvrmazdrvr Posts: 103
    (01' LX 2.0-sedan) Hi, I have posted this question before but I need help again! :confuse:
    My first question is when i'm driving and sometimes want/need to quickly accelerate, my car almost feels to get stuck and extremely (let my emphasize "extremely"!) slowly, increases speed and believe it or not, i'll have the gas petal to the floor!! I even tried to release and press the gas again but same thing. It gets really fustrating! My car used to pick up & go very quickly and I have been maintaning it (@ dealership) all this time too... I have had the major tune-up @ 30 & 60k, etc, had fuel injection flushed, and when I have explained the problem prior, they did not find anything wrong.
    Second question is sometimes when I am driving on regular roads (yes, smooth roads too), I hear a knocking sound coming from under the car. This doesn't happen when braking or when on the freeway. Any idea what it could be?
    Please help! Thank you in advance!!
  • adam317adam317 Posts: 2
    I found the solution to my A/C problem, and want to share it for others with the same issue! There is a Technical Service Bulletin for this problem; it is number 0700503. I took it in to my Mazda dealer, and they replaced the Heater Control module free of charge (it is still under factory warranty). Problem solved!
  • My 91 Protege DOHC had an annoying random miss at idle. Under 2000 rpm in second or higher gears it would buck and miss at times, making driving annoying. These "fixes" solved the problem for me.
    1. Even though plugs looked good, bought new KGB plugs and gave them proper gap.
    2. The spark plug wires each run down a three or four inch plastic sleeve. Sometimes the wire can ride up in the sleeve and not make contact with the plug. I adjusted all of these to make sure that when the sleeve snapped into place that the wire was firmly on the plug.
    3. Changed the distributor cap.
    4. Scraped and cleaned the rotor lightly.
    5. Checked rubber intake hose from air cleaner to intake manifold for cracks and leaks. There were none. Found four bolts missing on air cleaner cover and replaced them.
    6. Added a five ounce bottle of Lucas injector cleaner.
    7. Spark plug wires looked new so they were not replaced.

    The car now is totally smooth and without a miss at idle and no bucking at all even when pulling at 1,000 rpm in second or higher gear. It is a delight to drive and like a different car. Sometimes at idle it is so smooth that you don't know the engine is running. Good luck!

    RichieRich
  • harbihoharbiho Posts: 8
    Hehehe......

    Hopefully you meant NGK plugs. :D
  • urbanekurbanek Posts: 8
    My 2002 at 60,345 mi with only plugs changed at 32,000 mi. Problem showed within the last week, rainy. Going in for attention and TLC tomorrow. My guess is 1)plugs early 2)ignition wire harness 3)pollution sensor at end of life. Hopefully the error code will tell the story get it fixed and back happy on the road again, zoom, zoom.

    Any feedback as to failure would be appreciated. I will log what was found. Thanks all. Now back to my Bike, Yamaha Silverado 1600cc. Another fun toy!
  • harbihoharbiho Posts: 8
    Okay.....so finally fixed this!!!

    No-start was a result of a bad cam sensor.

    Heating was because of a bad thermostat.
  • thcinncthcinnc Posts: 1
    :cry: I've got the exact same problem with my 96 Protege DX. I've been told replacing the EGR Booster will fix it but it didn't. I've been trying since April. If you've found out anything, let me know.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    Heavy smoke at start-up could be caused by leaking valve stem seals. This would allow oil to leak into the combustion chamber at start-up. I'm guessing this would make the car fail an emissions test if it was done on a cold engine. Did your mechanic discuss this possibility?
  • the lower passenger compartment got flooded and now the car won't start. the automatic seat belts won't activate and there is no power to the starter. all the other electronics seem to work. i've discovered a circut board underneath the drivers seat with a wire bundle into it that appears to have fried. what is this board? it has a part number on the case but i can't seem to locate what it is, or what it's function is.BR70 67 780. Is there an aftermarket source for this? Is it likely to be my electrical problem. Thanks for your help.
  • '99 LX 1.6L w/ 119,000 miles. I've had some major mis-firing issues and noticeable loss of power lately. I took it to a shop and they recommended that I get the plugs, wires and coil replaced, which should take care of the problem. I'm always trying to save a buck or two and I was going to start by replacing the plugs and wires myself. After looking at the engine, I can't find the darn plugs! I'm no mechanic, but I've replaced those before on other cars and they're nowhere to be found. I had a repair manual already covering models thru 2000 and the pics don't match what my engine looks like.
    Anybody know where I should look and how easy is it to replace them? Maybe recommend a website with pics that could help me? Thanks in advance!
  • joachijoachi Posts: 2
    Does it have manual or automatic transmission? If it has automatic you may want to flush/fill your transmission fluid to remove hesitation.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    Plugs are in recessed holes between the two overhead cams. I believe they are covered by the coil packs on your model, so you may not easily see them.

    The '95-98 models have a distributor with wires that go to the plugs. Yours may be distributorless, I don't know.

    You might want to vacuum out the spark plug wells with a small tip nozzle before removing the plugs so that no junk falls into the cylinders. Also, make sure to give the plug wires a good push onto the plugs. It should make a popping sound if they are on good and tight. Finally, use a light coat of anti-seize compound on the new plug threads. This will make it easier to remove them next time.

    Bosch plug wire are around $50 and come with a lifetime warranty. Make sure the plug wires (when installed) don't touch either the valve cover (hot) or any hard edged component. Use the seperator clips provided and/or electrical tape. Slight wear on a wire's protective insulation over time will cause a plug wire to fail.

    Make sure to put the plug wires back in the same location you removed them so as not to mess up the firing order. Have fun!
  • I have a 2001.5 Protege ES, 2.0L with 113,000+ miles. The other day as I was driving home, the temp gauge suddenly pegged. I stopped, looked under the hood and saw a puddle of coolant. After being towed home I did some checking. No blown hoses, no leak in the radiator, just alot of coolant around the overflow tank. I did some further checking and found that the cooling fan relay had gone bad. Two days and $24 dollars later, I had the relay.
    I installed the relay last night and after a short test drive, declared the problem solved.
    This morning, I headed of to work and for the first 20 minutes everything was back to normal. The engine was operating smoothly, temp was at it's normal operating level.
    And then, the needle pegged. Not gradually either. I opened the hood and saw that the coolant in the overflow tank is boiling and overflowing.
    So now I'm wondering what else it might be? I've ruled out a bad water pump (the engine temp would have continued to climb), I don't think it's a blown head gasket either, so I'm thinking maybe a plugged radiator?
    Anyone else have any suggestions?
    Thanks.
  • bluem6ibluem6i Posts: 77
    might be a stuck thermostat... they're pretty cheap to replace
  • harbihoharbiho Posts: 8
    I'd start with the thermostat. They're cheap.....something like $6 or so. Also check your radiator cap.

    I had a similar problem, but I never saw that reservoir overflow. If those 2 cheap fixes don't work, I would still check compression. The radiatior should be okay considering that it still is only a 5 year old car.

    Have you flushed the coolant on a regular basis?
  • janicebjaniceb Posts: 1
    After it rains I always have a pool of water. I have a moon roof. I had a friend finally do a water test and figured that the water is leaking in through the drivers window. The strange part is that is pools under the seat. The side under the door remains dry. He took the plastic trim off and we still can't figure out how the water is getting under the seat. Has anyone experienced this. I know my car is old but I would like for it to last another year. I have a temporary fix but would like to know if getting that seal replaced will do it. I have heard that getting seals replaced doesn't always fix the problem.
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