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Isuzu Rodeo No Start Stall Idle Problems

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Comments

  • jig200jig200 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem as you above, Check Trans/Cruise light. It s been doing this since a month and now my car won't even start. I tryt starting i would have to raise accelerator and once i let it go it would shut down and the Trans/cruise light and check engine will be flickering.It is pointing that there is problem and 3 mechanics could not find the problem.
    The transmission shifts fine and everything. Don;t know what is the electronic problem. I changed spark plugs, computer and some fuses, but nothing changed.
    pls help with this problem.
    thanks
    jim
  • tico7tico7 Posts: 1
    CHECK YOUR FUSE CONECTION AFTER TIME IT WILL BE LOOSE HAVE SOME ONE MOVE THE FUSE BACK AND FOWARD WILE CRANKIN THE RODEO . THE CLIPS THAT HOLDS THE FUSE BECOME DIRTY AND DAMAGE AFTER TIME, # 2 THERE IS A WIRE FROM THE ALTERNADOR THAT POWERS THE FUEL PUMP WHEN YOU FIRST START THE INGINE (1995 RODEO) CHECK ALTERNATOR. BUT IT IS PROBABLY A BAD CONECTION WITH THE FUSE HOLDER AND INGINE CONPARMENT FUSE BOX.. :shades:
  • asta1asta1 Posts: 2
    Thanks, will do!
  • My 2002 Isuzu Rodeo Sport won't start. Sometimes I can pull the starter relay out and stick a paper clip in it place and turn the key and it will start. other times it won't even work when I do that. Also sometime it takes a jump and the paper clip trick to get it to start. The battery checked out good and I put a new starter on. Please help!
  • steve_hsteve_h Posts: 2
    I have a 92 Rodeo 3.1, auto, 2wd. Many times, it won't start cold. Cranks over fine. All lights, radio, etc work.
    If I pour a little gas in the throttle body, it will start right up and keeps running. However, it will usually stall just around the transition to normal running temperature. Sometimes it will restart and sometimes I have to pour a little gas in then it immediately starts and runs. I might go through this 7 or 8 times sometimes before getting it to run. During this time, if I put it in gear, it will normally stall. Eventually, it will restart without the assistance of having gas poured in. When it does this, it will run with no more problems. When it finally, fully reaches operating temp, it's perfectly fine. No problem with stalls, restarts, strange idle, surges, nothing. It runs great. I have never gotten a check engine light and according to a friend of mine with a code scanner, there are no codes stored.

    The problem seems to be a little more prevalent in colder weather, but does happen in all weather. It will also occasionally give a check trans light. When this happens, as soon as I slow to about 10 mph, it stalls and will not restart without having the gas poured in. This also normally occurs before reaching normal operating temp but has happened at normal temps.

    This vehicle has 230,000 on the clock. I have replaced the rear end once, probably looking at replacing or new bearings if the pin bolt isn't broken, again pretty soon. It has all the normal stuff for a 20 year old car, rust in a couple spots on the body, normal rattles, most bearings in the engine rattle, uses a little oil, leaks a little oil (not much), driver's seat is beginning to wear out.

    The only real problem I have is this starting issue. I haven't found a posting anywhere that really covers this issue. So, I am hoping that someone has an idea where I need to go from here to solve the problem. It's a pain to sometimes have to take 10 to 15 minutes to get out of the yard.

    I have replaced the fuel filter, plugs, rotor, dist cap, wires, checked vacuum hoses, MAP sensor seems fine, tried gas from different stations.

    Thanks for any help anyone might be able to give.
    Steve
  • Our 97 rodeo has over 250000 miles on it. It stalls when we put it into park, and has a mildly erratic idle while in gear. I have fixed one vacuum line that comes from the EVAP solenoid to the throttle body. There is another vacuum port that has no line connected to it, so I capped it off. As you look at the engine, the port is on the left side of the manifold, towards the front. I replaced the plugs, fuel filter and air filter. This does have the individual coil packs. I'm thinking it might be the EGR valve, but no code for it. Also thinking that it might be the IAC, but not sure. Any ideas?
  • ivy96ivy96 Posts: 8
    When I had this issue, I found, when I took off my IAC, it was black and disgusting inside. I cleaned it with contact cleaner, put it back on, and my truck started beautifully. Every once in a whilen it starts acting up again or the check engine light will come on, and that is the first thing i do, it never fails me. I supose replacing it would be a good idea, but if you're low on funds, just clean it up.
    As for that vacuum line with no hose, did it make a difference when you capped it? That darn line has baffled me for years and my Chilton Guide doesn't seem to say anything about it. I am just curious.
  • I capped the line because it was direct access into the intake. It made a little difference, but not much. On the older Rodeos (96 and older), it was used with a check valve that connected to a steel vacuum line that ran along the frame rail on the drivers side back towards the tank.
    The fuel and vacuum lines for the tank run on the passenger side of the 97 rodeo. Our manual nor the vacuum diagram show that line. I just capped it.
    The only thing I can think of is that it goes to the transmission vent that sits in the corner of the engine compartment on the passenger side, but I highly doubt it.
  • Update: Problem fixed. It was a bad ignition module supplying bad information to the computer. Changed module and everything works fine now.
  • steve-h...
    your car sould start.. then run for a few min.. then stall again...????? mine will do this and then after 2 tries will not restart again for about 4 hours...

    ANY GOT ANY ANSWERS???????
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