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Comments
The dealership of course saids it's the altenator and has quoted me $627 to repair the problem. It also does some type of jerking actions. I have had my car for 4 yrs and the two people that I had to look at it also stated that it should not be doing.
Other than tires wearing down fast, this is my only issue with the Caliber. All I can say is it was a cheap car that we could afford at the time.
Yes, this sounds very similar to what happened to me. I don't think the flat tire has anything to do with it though and your struts are another problem. I had this repaired at my local dealership, however I had an extended power-train warranty so I only paid my deductible, but I do believe that the grand total was somewhere around $500
They do wear out so I would likely err on the side of caution.
My R/T had less than 50,000 mi. when it needed replacement of the LCAs. The SXT had 90,000 mi. BUT at that time the ball joint was about to separate which would have caused loss of control of the vehicle. Hope this helps.
Any ideas would be helpful. I may try call the dealer and see how much they would charge to tell me what is wrong with it.
On another note, I took it to advance auto parts and they put the code reader on it and nothing came up on the reader, which is good but That doesnt help me figure out what is wrong with it.
Please help....
BTW: I dont want to hear all the bitching, just looking for some intellegent input. Any suggestions?
We had a local mechanic take a listen and he said it may just be one of the three pulleys. So 100$ later, we replaced all three pulleys and belt to no avail. Same noise and it's loud and constant. Called the dealership and checked for recalls and nothing. Looks like it's a new alternator for me and 400$ for the mechanics Hopefully this will fix the problem. I still owe 7000$ on the car and in reality, I want to drive it into a lake.
My car also has the crunching or popping noise when turning..has since I bought it. It almost feels as if I'm going to lose control of the vehicle when making a turn quickly. NO one has been able to diagnose the popping noise at this point.
Sorry to hear you are having a concern with your 2006 Dodge Caliber.
I checked for Technical Service Bulletins but could not find anything related to the concern you described. You may want to consider having the vehicle diagnosed by your local authorized Dodge Service Department or a trusted mechanic.
Lisa
Customer Care
Chrysler Group LLC
The crunching, popping noise.. replace the ball joints. Get the ones that come all together and change everything at once! We tried pressing them in, but that didn't last long. Been great since.
Had to hot wire left head light to right head light and never did figure that out except one mechanic told me he thought a small part of a "card" was burnt out that controlled the headlights. So we ran a wire... works fine.
At 120,00 had to replace the alternator... but the first one we bought at the parts store only lasted a few days. This past summer at 180,00 miles we had to put in the THIRD air conditioning compressor, the first to were factory problems. Something about not having enough liquid or pressure in them to begin with. Changed 3 in two weeks. Our mechanic was very frustrated... but it wasn't the car's fault! After market parts.
Now the switch that controls the direction the heat/air blows isn't working. Anyone have any issues with that?
Really rear ball joints?
Oh as as for the blower... yeah I have issues with it too. The "fan" works on all positions but one. It works but not like it should. Also when I change from or to defrost it wants to kick back up off defrost. I usually just hold it until it takes hold. Also the speakers are gone. I think there might be one or two that still work barely.
I have hated this car ever since I got it. Only reason why I got it is because I needed something ASAP.
Any one out there have an issue with ALL the blind spots? I have counted 6 of them.
I'm having a repeated problem with my check engine light. It's been on since I've owned the car (6 years). In order to pass a smog check in the state of California, my check engine light can not be on, and I do not feel like paying someone illegally to pass it. The "mystery code" is P161b. I have been told by the dealer that this is not a valid code, but it is... It showed up on the diagnostic. It is also a code that will not clear! Please help! Does anyone know what this could be? Maybe there's a secret sequence of buttons to push to clear the code? I'm desperate! Thanks!
The problems my caliber has are: the passenger air bag light is on (below the air conditioning controls) and the airbag light on the dash is on. It also has a hard time starting sometimes and when it does that, when I accelerate, it jerks and does not move above 1 mph fully gassed. I turn it off and let it rest for a minute and then it's fine. Also, sometimes when I'm at a light and I accelerate, it lacks the power to go, so I gun it and blow out whatever is in the engine, then it seems to work fine.
Thanks again for any advice you may have!
I am having the same issue. Thanks.
Po487 EGR throttle control open circuit A
Po488 EGR throttle control range/Performance A circuit
Has anyone else experienced this and if you have whats the magic trick to cure it?
Many thanks
So I am having the altenator issue and am able to do the work myself but my issue is, Im not exactly sure where the altenator is? Can you please assist me on this by letting me know where it is?
Please help! I am a single mom with barely enough income to survive... I can not afford to lose the only car I have!!!???
Thank you all in advance!
Also i don't know what is your alternator problem, but my battery light turn on some months ago, i went to the dealer and it was a "software upgrade" of the car computer and the light went off, so it wasn't a alternator problem even looks like it.