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Problems with 07 Dodge Caliber Sxt



  • breirvbreirv Posts: 1
    Hi! I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber. It now has 204,000 miles on it. It has been a great little car and obviously I have driven the wheels off it. Reading these posts makes me smile. I've been thru so many of the same things. I drive 54 miles to and then from work.

    The crunching, popping noise.. replace the ball joints. Get the ones that come all together and change everything at once! We tried pressing them in, but that didn't last long. Been great since.

    Had to hot wire left head light to right head light and never did figure that out except one mechanic told me he thought a small part of a "card" was burnt out that controlled the headlights. So we ran a wire... works fine.

    At 120,00 had to replace the alternator... but the first one we bought at the parts store only lasted a few days. This past summer at 180,00 miles we had to put in the THIRD air conditioning compressor, the first to were factory problems. Something about not having enough liquid or pressure in them to begin with. Changed 3 in two weeks. Our mechanic was very frustrated... but it wasn't the car's fault! After market parts.

    Now the switch that controls the direction the heat/air blows isn't working. Anyone have any issues with that?
  • Has anyone ever Bypassed the Ac and the smog pullies. Both? My ac pully is going out, and now my smog pully is going out. I want to just bypass them both. Is this a logical decision? :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • Hello, I have had to replace the alternator. Replaced front right ball joint and control arm. Still not right. Took it into Chrysler today to have it checked out... They told me the rear ball joints need replaced tie rods, sway bar and more.

    Really rear ball joints?

    Oh as as for the blower... yeah I have issues with it too. The "fan" works on all positions but one. It works but not like it should. Also when I change from or to defrost it wants to kick back up off defrost. I usually just hold it until it takes hold. Also the speakers are gone. I think there might be one or two that still work barely.

    I have hated this car ever since I got it. Only reason why I got it is because I needed something ASAP.

    Any one out there have an issue with ALL the blind spots? I have counted 6 of them.
  • dee108dee108 Posts: 2
    I bought a used Dodge Caliber at 55000 kms. Ran great till I hit around 120,000. Currrently sitting around 208,000. I have had to replace front struts. Now I need to replace ti rods and ball joints. The other day my check engine light popped on. After taking a look under the hood, the downstream o2 sensor is in two pieces! The plug on the wire harness end is missing completely!! As well as the plug on the sensor itself. Also have a newly added ticking/knocking noise coming from the passanger side of the motor! Maybe the top end? The car is running horrible!! Stalling at lights, etc. Idling anywhere between 500-1000 rpms. No idea what this could be??? Anyone have any ideas?? Soo frustrated!! :cry: Any input would be great!!!
  • jamaccjamacc Posts: 2
    My Caliber is about 80k miles now. At 60k I had the ticking noise, it ended up being the alternator,; the belt was pulling the alternator apart I should say causing the metal to clang and make the ticking sound. I have had my mechanic for 8 years and 3 cars so I have faith in his judgement. He said that the alternator issue is fairly common with the caliber. He also said just about everyone at one time or another will replace the struts, joints and even the ties because the body is too heavy for the chassis and owners start see problems around 50 to 60 k miles with these cars. I have not had the O2 sensor issue yet. I wish I would have done my research, Apparently Dodge is replacing the Caliber with the Dart even though the Caliber is one of its best selling cars so these issues must be very common!
  • dee108dee108 Posts: 2
    I agree, I wish I done my research as well. I'm going to check the alternator out, but not sure that will cause the stalling, low idle, and rough sounding motor... Guess that will be the next thing to have to figure out. Really beginning to think of a trade in.... :( Any one have the rough ride, staling problem??
  • I purchased my 07' caliber in 06'. I have over 200,000 miles on it (I use to like to drive). I've replaced the Throttle Control and I've had to replace the alternator twice (the first one, an after market, was defective). Now I'm having the whinning sound again and seems as if the car is struggling at times uphill. When I reach 60mph, it starts to shake (maybe balancing and rotating the tires will cure that). I've changed the oil and the spark plugs. I have new hoses. I just noticed today that the engine is ticking. If anyone is having this problem or has had this problem, if you have any suggestions I'm more than willing to listen. I'm putting her in the shop today or tomorrow. I love my car and I haven't had any major repairs other than the Throttle Control (all other repairs I've bought the certified Dodge parts online and had a mechanic install). Thanks for listening
  • Hello! I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber and was having a similar problem. It wouldn't start and wouldn't even turn over when I tried the key. One minute it would work and then it wouldn't and then it would again. We thought it was the battery at first but that was completely fine. Then we thought it was the starter but that turned out fine as well. Turned out it was actually the key. Apparently the chip in the key went out and wasn't registering every time I cranked it. I've been using my spare key since and it's working just fine. If you don't have a spare, take it to a dealer and have them fix the key. Hope that helps!
  • shannon_steelshannon_steel Posts: 1
    edited June 2013
    I'm having a repeated problem with my check engine light. It's been on since I've owned the car (6 years). In order to pass a smog check in the state of California, my check engine light can not be on, and I do not feel like paying someone illegally to pass it. The "mystery code" is P161b. I have been told by the dealer that this is not a valid code, but it is... It showed up on the diagnostic. It is also a code that will not clear! Please help! Does anyone know what this could be? Maybe there's a secret sequence of buttons to push to clear the code? I'm desperate! Thanks!

    The problems my caliber has are: the passenger air bag light is on (below the air conditioning controls) and the airbag light on the dash is on. It also has a hard time starting sometimes and when it does that, when I accelerate, it jerks and does not move above 1 mph fully gassed. I turn it off and let it rest for a minute and then it's fine. Also, sometimes when I'm at a light and I accelerate, it lacks the power to go, so I gun it and blow out whatever is in the engine, then it seems to work fine.

    Thanks again for any advice you may have!
  • You mentioned you had the problem fixed at the dealer but you didn't say what the problem was. Can specify because
    I am having the same issue. Thanks.
  • Hi guys, Ive had my 2007 dodge for nearly a year now, bought it second hand with 15k miles on the clock so it was still not even run in. Ive just hit 22k miles in it and the engine management light has appeared, and when my mechanic plugged in the diagnostic computer it came up with two codes relating to the EGR valve. So after both parts of the EGR valve where replaced and the codes wiped they appeared with the same fault again. The codes are as follows-
    Po487 EGR throttle control open circuit A
    Po488 EGR throttle control range/Performance A circuit

    Has anyone else experienced this and if you have whats the magic trick to cure it?
    Many thanks
  • My check engine light and gascap light have intermittently been coming on for 2 years. I changed the gascap since it was the easy thing to do. That didnt do it. Eventually the cruise control stopped working so I just took it to Dodge. The guy said some part (transmission or engine maybe?) has a leaky valve causing the check engine light to come on and consequently the cruise control shuts off due to that. The estimate was $285 to fix. It is currently being fixed at this very moment so don't know if that is absolutely ALL that has to be done.
  • Ive replaced my alternator several times they don't seen to last. The alternator will trick you into that there is a noise coming from the engine, it was the alternator. Easy to replace. i bought a new alternator from auto zone for $180 and did the repair my self. I've had the throttle body replaced due to poor idle (@ 70k miles) I've also had to replace all my motor mounts. The motor mount caused a random clicking or ticking thought it was engine to, it was the motor mounts. They were hard to see due to poor lighting but look up close and you will see cracks around the rubber. My cruise control switch was replaced because it was cutting out. Oh and now my check engine light comes on then turns off randomly about every 130 -180 miles. Still trying to figure that one out.
  • Hi there,

    So I am having the altenator issue and am able to do the work myself but my issue is, Im not exactly sure where the altenator is? Can you please assist me on this by letting me know where it is?
  • I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber that I personally LOVE and haven't had any problems with until recently. So through reading all of your post, have discovered that I have the alternator issue. No problem I will fix that but the other issue I have is at 1 1/2 to 2 rpm's my car is revving and seemingly having a problem shifting gears or something!??? I am not sure how else to explain the issue but if anyone has experience this problem and if so what was it and how did you get it fixed???

    Please help! I am a single mom with barely enough income to survive... I can not afford to lose the only car I have!!!???

    Thank you all in advance!
  • Hi, I was just wondering would you recommend me this car? It would be my first car. It seems that you are having a lot of issues with it. This is what Ive heard too but overall it seems like a great car it has a small engine and a lot of trunk spare which is perfect for me. I would be buying it used
  • i Michelle: I own a 2007 Caliber, that sound or vibrating you feel is the motor that jump when shifting, you fix this problem replacing "motor mount" and maybe the "transmission mount or support" too. I feel that vibrating when my park is on drive shift but waiting in a red light, i would need to shift to neutral so the vibrating and sound disappear.

    Also i don't know what is your alternator problem, but my battery light turn on some months ago, i went to the dealer and it was a "software upgrade" of the car computer and the light went off, so it wasn't a alternator problem even looks like it.
  • cataocatao Posts: 1
    My dodge caliber just started to wine a little but I have noisy rear brakes and was told by dealer it was also a problem with the calibers and the 2007s also leak into the left rear light. And was told not a warranty issue. But I would also be in on a class action. If dodge knows about these problems we all should be reimbursed a part of what we paid for and the aggravation
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