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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005



  • Hi chucko...


    Yes, it was quite a snow :)

    Your idea is a certainly good one, but this isn't the first time I've noticed this. It's happened before when there wasn't snow (although there was ice, which was what kicked the ABS on that time).
  • pmhtvpmhtv Posts: 33
    I have an '03 Accord EX-L with almost 30K and do not have any issues with the leather seats. They are holding up very well. It's like anything else - if you take care of it, it will last. If you park your car in 100 degree heat with all the windows closed and no sun shield day after day, then yes, the leather will crack - no matter what the make of car you own.
  • tleetlee Posts: 42
    Your problem seems to be similar to mine (before it was fixed). I would describe it as the popping noise when the bubbles of a bubble wrap are burst. It only occurred when the car was over a bump or pothole. Since you are in Austin, you should bring your car to Classic Honda if your dealer cannot fix the problem for you. I'm sure Classic Honda would be happy to have your business. By the way, it has been almost a week and I haven't heard a single popping noise since I got my car back.
  • thanks - so you took it to Classic and they fixed it? would you mind telling us what they did specifically?


  • jbaerjbaer Posts: 45
    Thanks a lot. Glad to hear you have been satisfied with your leather seats.
  • tleetlee Posts: 42
    Yes, Classic Honda fixed the problem for me free of charge (although I didn't buy the car from them). As I recall, they added some felt padding to the headliner. Please see post #9387 and #9409 for more details.
  • Sorry, I don't have a manual. It's my daughters 94 accord lx. I see 4 bolts and a big nut in the middle. Any help out there? Thanks in advance.
  • I had 2 vehicles with leather seats and I say this about ALL cars with leather. The dealer should PAY you to buy a car with leather seats. The problem with leather is that it needs to be conditioned at least 2 - 3 times a month. Condition with the use of saddle soap and leather conditioner in order keep the moisture within the leather and allow it to breath/stretch.

    Leather in a car, although it looks damn good...over a period of 2 - 3 years it will DEFINITELY crack and start looking horrible...especially on the drivers side because of the constant sliding in and out of the vehicle.

    If you have the finances to THROW good money away then by all means buy a car with leather, but if you have kids and live a practical life then cloth will be the way to go....

    One thing to consider, if you plan on leasing then hell yeah lease a vehicle with leather cause you're going to give it back to the dealer for a new one in a few years anyway.
  • Read post 8445. I have to agree with gregoryc1 in post 8446 about my problem being located somewhere the senor doesn't trip a code. On top of the things I done from post 8446, I have changed fuel filter. I also ohms checked the fuel injectors while the erractic rpm malfunction was ocurring, but still to no avail.

       Here is some more information about the problem which someone out there may help me find a solution, the erractic idle will go from about 700 rpms to 1500 rpms then back down to about 700 and constantly does this until I add throttle.

    Heeeelllppp.... LoL
  • Its more than likely your starter. I had the same situation with my 1991 (from 1990 - 1993 alot of the troubleshooting is the same). I put a test light on the wire going to starter and turned the igniton key on. The light lit up ,meaning power was making it to the starter but the car would not crank. I jumped across the starter (touching metal from the ground post on the starter to the wire going to the starter, the ignition key must be in the on position to do it) and the car started right up. I replaced the starter and the problem never happened again.

    Not to say the Main Relay can not be the cause of your problem, but changing one out is a royal pain in the azz, and the starter is a less expensive way to go. Plus you can change a starter out yourself by removing the 2 mount bolts, disconnect the ground on the starter and disconnect the ignition wire. Install new starter, connect and mount it back up and you're off and running. Takes about 30 mins to an hour.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    I went back and reviewed the posting. Could your problem be with the TPS, (Throttle Position Sensor). Maybe the computer does not know when the the throttle is at idle position, (foot off the accelerator). Are you sure that the throttle is closing? Also, you might want to check the motor mounts on this vehicle. Years ago, on rear wheel drive vehicles, a bad motor mount would "pull" on the throttle linkage causing an idle issue. Keep us posted on this problem.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The steering knuckle has to be removed first, rotor & hub removed from knuckle (bolts are behind), then rotor removed from hub:


    Brake Disc (Rotor)

    Honda Accord/Prelude 1984-1995 Repair Guide


    1990-95 Accord


    Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

    Remove the wheel.

    Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. Please refer to Suspension & Steering for procedures.

    Remove the 4 bolts retaining the hub unit to the steering knuckle and remove the hub unit.

    Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake rotor.


    To install:


    Assemble the disc to the hub unit and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

    When installing the hub to the knuckle, use new self-locking bolts and tighten them to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).

    Install the steering knuckle.

    Lower the vehicle and check for proper brake operation.
  • ashaidyashaidy Posts: 16
    round two back to Pasadena Honda dealer 1/26/05. My contact with HOA 800 999-1009. My case # is N032004-11-2901. Together we can apply some pressure and hopefully we shall see the results we are after. If this does not work I shall escalate by contacting the media or an attorney whatever it takes.
  • Good luck! Mine's going in Thurs morning for a second chance to fix it. I told them to keep it as long as it takes, I don't want it back with this issue. The popping and cracking continues unabated. What did HOA say? Do they acknowledge that this is a problem or continue to stonewall?
  • We have a 2004 V6 EX - had to replace the driver seat leather within 6 months of buying the car. The new leather is deteriating again - this is on the side of the seat that is next to the door. My husband can't seem to slide into the seat without his back rubbing against it when he gets in and out of the car. I think it's because the car sits low (we do not have this issue with the leather in our Sequoia that sits a lot higher). I plan on taking it back and having them replace it again - don't know if they will still cover it under the warranty. This time though, we will also buy a seat cover.
  • I have a 2004 V6 EX - just turned 30K - noticed that there is this creaking and popping sound that occasionally occurs under the driver's side of the floorboard. I can actually feel the pop against my left foot that is resting on the floor. Only seems to occur after the car has been turned off for several hours, and does it within the first few minutes of driving.


    Anyone have any idea?
  • lookgflookgf Posts: 5
    I have Honda Accord 2000 LX. Recently, the engine check lamp is always on. I called the dealer and got answer I have to cost over $100 to make diaglostic first. Then schedule to repair. Anybody can give your advice? Is it still under warrantee?

  • Hello! This is a receipt for a question you recently asked at of Bill . You should receive your reply within 3 days unless you see another number in parentheses by the person's name in the previous sentence. Thanks for using our service!

    Your question was

    "I have a 1997 4Dr LX Honda accord.I had a problem with my check engine light and emission test.i got my check engine light fixed and sensors replaced.After that there is no check engine light coming.After the sensors are replaced i drove the car and it was fine.The next day when i started the car after 3-4 mins ,i heard noisy groans and RPM fluctuating.I drove my car to a mechanic and saw the car getting over heated.Mechanic has observed the same and said water is drained out and there is a problem with water pump.He filled the radiator with water and it drove fine for 10 miles without any heating.

    The mechanic says it is a problem with Water Pump and needs to replace it.He suggested to replace the Timing Belt,Bearing Shaft belt,crank seal,cam seal,water pump,balance seal and Tensioner as part of 120K mantenance.The current miles on the car is 116K.I approached another mechanic after filling with water,he said there is no issue better replace thermostat or radiator.

    I am confused on what to do?Should i replace Water pump and all parts or only thermostat or radiator.

    Generally should we replace all the above parts as maintenance for every 60,000 miles.

    What would be the cost for replacing all?

    Can i drive the vehicle in this condition,if so how long and how many miles daily?
  • ramidaramida Posts: 67


    I have this observation on my 03 Accord.


    There are times when I need to completely ease off the gas pedal, either to apply the brake or prepare to slow down. When I then press the gas pedal to accelerate (even slowly), the car kind of shudders (bounces up and down -- tsug, tsug, tsug). Although some "shudders" are light, they are very noticeable and quite annoying because the drive becomes rough and not smooth. Has anyone experienced these shudders or bouncy acceleration?




  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    I agree with the first mechanic if the timing belt has never been done. It sounds like a bad water pump bearing or maybe a tensioner. If either part siezes it'll wreck your engine.
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