Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

gee35coupe

either the alernator or the battery alone. I usually end up replacing the other pretty soon thereafter.

amazon

Sure do. I don't know how much labor I saved, but with my wife layed off and everything, any saving is good.

snuke59

Thanks Auburn for responding so quickly. I also appreciate your thoughts gee35coupe. My job requires quite a bit of traveling so I might just go ahead and replace the battery to prevent being stranded in the near future.

clint98v6at

I changed the cruise control light last month on my 98. All you have to do is use a small flat head screwdriver on the top and bottom of the switch and gently pry off the cover. I wrapped a thin rag on the screwdriver to prevent scratching. Once the cover is off, you can pull out the switch. You can remove the light bulb with a quarter turn. The green bulbs are a little pricey for as small as they are, I think around $13 at my Honda dealer. Not sure if they are on a fuse. If the white "cruise" light works but not the green indicator light, I doubt it's a fuse problem since both bulbs are in the same switch.

ron1500

I had a similar problem on my 2003 EX V6. 3 Days after I purchased the car the radio would work fine for a few minutes then stop working for hours at a time. Take the car back and ask for a new radio. Honda replaced mine and I haven't had any problems with the stereo since.

hmurphy

I'm not sure whether this is a problem, but my brakes make a grinding noise the first few times I use them after the car sits for a while. Is this something to do with the ABS? I've never had an ABS system before so I'm not sure what's normal. I've only had the car for a week.

I can't find any mention of this in the manual.

The noise goes away after the first or second time I hit the brakes. It happens even at very light initial stops.

Any advice is appreciated.

P.S. -- The car is fabulous in all other regards!

gee35coupe

How long does it sit?

kenbb

I am in St. Joseph, Missouri.

leeroy300

Does anyone else have problems shifting thier 6 spd ? I can not ( as well as anyone else who has drives the car ) get the transmission to shift smoothly on a regular basis. This is my 4th Honda all have been Manuals and this one wont shift smooth. I feel it is a fuel delivery issue any comments P.S. Been driving manuals for more than 15 yrs so not smart remarks please .

auburn63

I asked my parts department and they said Honda doesnt even offer a reman-water pump and that they are all new and can still be got. We checked as far back as 1986 and they were still available.

stickershox

I have a 3 week old Accord Sed EX 4 cyl Automatic that accelerates on its own when I start the car up. I pull back out of my driveway and the engine revs up when I have foot on brake. Is this something I should take to dealer???

atlantabenny

If you mean the RPM is instantly at 1500 on start-up when the engine is cold and stays there until the Temp Gauge needle rises to the first 2 marks, the condition is normal (engine is in cold start-up mode to quickly lubricate parts and prevent stalling).

If the RPM continues to rise and/or fluctuates while in P or N, you need to have the dealer look at it because of possible safety implications. Hope this helps.

isellhondas

The noise you are hearing is simply rust on the rotors that has formed after the car has been sitting. Here in Seattle, we get this BIG TIME!

It's not a big deal and three or four brake applications will rub the rust coating off.

kenbb

Thanks, I will talk to the parts department. I know mistakes and confusion do take place.

autonuts

Whenever I place the car in reverse, I'm getting a vibration - like the whole inside of the car shakes/vibrates. I just bought this car and it has 136,900mi. on it. The person which I bought it from said it was due for a tune-up. Is this tune-up something I can do? What would need replaced in a full tune-up? I would like to do it myself to save money if it just requires changing plugs and wires. Please help. Thanks to all.

accex18

I have a Honda Accord EX 1997. Ever since I bought the car there is this weird noise when I back up. When I Shift the gear into "R" and back up, as soon as I step on the brakes I hear a clicking noise coming from the back, and when I shift back to "D" and drive and step on the brakes I hear the clicking noise again and it stops after that. It happens only once after I shift from "D" to "R" and once from "R" to "D".
Can someone please tell me what the hell is that noise, its pissing me off to the point that I put the stereo loud just so I dont hear the noise.

PS. "THE CLICKING NOISE THAT I HEAR IS NOT THE SAME NOISE YOU HEAR WHEN YOU JUST CHANGE GEARS, ITS SOMETHING ELSE"

according2me

If you have no proof of maintenance (receipts) for the work done on your car to date, there are some things you need to be aware of. The following is a list from cordclub.com which lists things other than sparkplugs,wires,cap and rotor that should be done on a high mileage Accord, especially when no maintenance records are available. It applys to all older 4cyl Accords and is a good checklist for the DIYer.

1) Purchase Honda shop manual via ebay or new from helminc.com. Perhaps most important step you will make for DIY work. Excellent manual w/ good illustrations and pictures.

2) If mileage exceeds 90K and you can't verify the timing belts, balance shaft seal and seal retainer, and water pump have been replaced, you should perform this maintenance as first priority.

3) Change the transmission fluid per instructions and use Honda ATF, if equipped w/ autotransmission.

4) Replace antifreeze w/ long life Prestone or other high quaility antifreeze. Honda also distributes an antifreeze product.

5) Bleed/flush all brake lines and replace w/ new brake fluid.

6) Change oil and filter.

7) Remove inlet air duct and clean throttle body in place w/ spay throttle body cleaner and old toothbrush.

8) Replace PCV if mileage/time unknown.

9)Check the boots on the front half-axles.

Hope you find this useful. BTW for your vibration issue, you might take a look at the motor/trans mounts.

98jettavr6

Thanks for the solution to my lighting problem. I'll give it a try. I'm wondering if the bulb is available after-market, the Honda price seems needlessly steep.

autonuts

Thanks for the info!

bburton3

Have the same auto-mine makes a similiar noise-it is the brake shoes and pads moving about when u go from braking going backwards to braking going forwards. There is also some slop in the drive train-mine has 154K on it. Make a copy of post 4905-tape it up somewhere-follow those instructions - this is about what I do-never gotten less than 200K out of an accord yet-sold my old ones cause rust was getting ugly-one now has over 300K on it and still going strong.

There is an emissions system recall on 97 I4 accords-it is good till you hit 150K. You can get plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, oil and filter change free of charge. If you have not had this service-get it done before u hit 150K-honda plug wires and cap are not cheap. Also if you have any emissions problems-ie CEL alert-honda will fix it free of charge even after u get the above freebies as long as u have less than 150K on the clock. Honda replaced several parts of my emissions system before they finally replaced the O2 sensor -that is a $200+ item also - Honda's price. Use all ur bennies

maxhonda99

I got a 2K Accord and as soon as it went past the 36K warranty expiration point, the whole dashboard started to rattle.

Specifically, I think it's the windshield defroster vents that are rattling behing the instrument cluster.

If it requires just tightening, is it a job I could do myself? Anybody know anywhere on the web where I can find pics of the inside of the dash to attempt to do it myself. I would take it to the dealer, but I'm sure it will end up costing a few hundred bucks to fix it.

gregoryc1

Just had the second oil and filter change on our 2003 4-cylinder Honda Accord. The service was performed by the selling Honda dealer. The engine is VERY quiet and smooth. No problems. We do mostly highway driving. I would HIGHLY recommend the 2003 Accord to anyone who wants a quality vehicle. ----Greg

glenn3398

Can anyone tell me how to replace the a/c filters under the dash . I am told I must remove the glove box , but after removing what seems to be all the screws it still will not come off.

inkie

There are many detailed instructions on this message board I don't have the numbers of the posts. I have never used the search, possibly that will help. Otherwise ask a host maybe they can tell you how to get the right message numbers. I have done it once. If your not a shade tree mechanic have someone else do it. If you try it, remove the battery cables so the air bag sensor is not active its close by and you might hit it. Thats the only thing the posters including me did not include in the instructions.Also you can get instructions from some of the Honda dealers that sell on line by downloading.

brassrox

I just bought a 2003 Accord EX V6 coupe--driving it is awesome. The power, smoothness, handling and most of all the rock solid structure make it feel like a luxury car. The only defect on the car I found before taking delivery--a plastic side window trim piece had some wrinkles on it. They ordered the part to replace it.

I know a lot of people question Honda's quality, and they certainly aren't perfect (what is?), but my previous car was a '97 Civic with 70K miles. I bought it in HS and kind of ragged it (and crashed it once), but it never let me down and ran like a champ until I sold it for 40% of it's original value. If I had bought a Neon or a Sentra I probably would have been lucky to get 20-30%.

My cousin bought a Jetta 1.8T recently, nice little car. However, it has given him so many problems that he is trying to get VW to buy it back under the lemon law. He now wants to get an Accord like mine.

I know there have been some issues with the new Accord, but at least the windows aren't falling into the door and the engines aren't failing.

98jettavr6

I must agree with you on the high quality of Hondas. I used to own a '98 Jetta GLX VR6, & my fiance still owns a '98 Accord EX V6 coupe. The Jetta was more fun to drive, b/c of VW's torquey set-up, but the Honda was much faster & smoother. Two of the windows fell on my Jetta the month before I sold it. Don't get me wrong, the Honda has had its share of hiccups as well - new alternator @ 85,000, new brakes @ 60,000 - but my overall opinion is that Honda is better product. At 96,000 miles, her Accord is quiet, fast, & still turns the head of your average commoner.

jfigueroa1

Hi to all, check your owners manual at least on my 02 cr-v owner manual it explain how to do replace it.

Greetings from sunny Miami.

gregoryc1

I can't believe that you are complaining about replacing an alternator @ 85,000 miles and brakes @ 60,000 miles. QUESTION: ---Do you expect to operate a vehicle without any repairs? If you had an extended warrranty, (7 yrs / 100,000 miles / zero deductable), the alternator would have been covered. American cars are going through alternators at 30,000 miles. Brakes, starters, alternators, batteries, water pumps, timing belts --etc are normal maintenance items at that mileage. I think you need to "re-think" your concept of vehicle ownership! ----Greg

pj23

wow - I thought 98jetta was just giving us full disclosure on his experience, not complaining about the repairs.

maxhonda99

gregoryC,

A Alternator at 85K miles? I don't consider that normal. It should last much longer. As for american cars only lasting 30K, that's Bull. I have a Lincoln Town Car in the driveway with 180K miles with original alternator.

snowful

I've had my Accord for almost a month and I've been very careful to listen for rattles since I've read all the posts about dash rattles and such. A week ago it started. I had to brake somewhat hard and I heard an annoying rattle coming from the right front side. It wasn't a constant rattle, but I would hear it occasionally while driving. I knew I would have to take it back to the dealership because it sounded like something had come loose. My worst fear was realized (well almost). Then one day I needed my sunglasses and made the realization that my sunglasses had been bouncing around up by the interior lights and that was my "rattle." I had a good laugh at myself.

1400 puny miles and no real rattles yet...

98jettavr6

My msg. seems to have really set you off. I disagree w/you wholeheartedly. I do not need to rethink anything regarding vehicle ownership. As another poster pointed out, I was simply giving a full assessment of the vehicles. Agreed, all vehicles will have their maintenance costs, I never said (typed) they would not.

Be easy, try to keep the Internet bulletin board thing in proper context.

accex18

My 1997 Honda Accord with 108000 mileage on it has a vibration while braking. The whole steering wheel vibrates when I step on the brakes. This is my question: would worn out CV Joints cause this because I know they are worn out and need to be replaced? If this is not the reason could someone tell me what are the possible reasons to the problem, I'll appreciate that.

PS. Thanks bburton3 for replying to my previous msg.

03lxv6

Auburn,

I've got a question and am asking for help.

My new LX V6 has a hot key after stop-and-go traffic. Is it normal? Lugwrench says it may indicate wiring problem and suggests me asking technical advice from you.

Thanks a lot.

mwcarlso

A common cause of steering wheel vibration while braking is warped front disc brake rotors. Even if they are only slightly out of round they can cause this. Loose suspension and steering parts could also cause vibration. Unless the boots that surround the CV joint are broken and you can see grease leaking out I would bet they are still ok. CV joints make a clicking noise while turning if they are worn. I am going to put my money on warped disc rotors. If the rotors need to be turned, make sure the shop uses an on the car lathe to turn them. Good luck.

benjaminh

My maintenance light for my first oil change on my 02 Accord came on at around 6000 miles. I'm not sure if it was exactly at 6k, or just after that by a few hundred. Anyway, my question is: how do those maintenance reminders on Accords work? Do they just go off at a fixed mileage or do they sense how much city and hwy driving you're doing and calculate it that way, or do they have an oil sensor like some GM cars? Thanks.

gregoryc1

Let's look at the alternator question in detail. You have a Lincon Town Car in your driveway with 180K, and the original alternator. I had a 1997 Chevrolet Lumina on a three year lease, and when it reached 30,000 miles it needed an alternator, an AC compressor and a heater blower motor. The vehicle was always serviced by the Chevrolet dealership. At the same time my wife had a 1997 Honda Accord on a three year lease. It was completely trouble free for the entire lease.(36,000 miles ). Both you and I might have the exception with regards to American cars. But 85,000 miles on an alternator, and 60,000 miles out of a set of brakes is very reasonable. Even the human body will break down eventually. It is called "death"!----- 98jetaur6 made reference to the Honda as having "its share of hiccups"! With all the things that could possibly go wrong with this Honda, he feels that a set of brakes should last more than 60,000 miles, and an alternator should last more than 85,000 miles. These expectations are not reasonable for these two items. They might be reasonable for an engine and a transmission up to 100,000 miles if properly serviced. ----Greg

bburton3

Pretty safe bet warped rotors are causing the problem. Do not assume they are "permanently" warped-have had the same problem on previous accords and when I retorqued the lug nuts to 80 foot pounds which is the correct torque assuming you have the stock steel wheels-this may well reduce the amount of shaking while braking. You do not want to start grinding down the rotors unless you absolutely have to cause you will shorten their lives and rotor replacement is pricey.

The most common cause of warped rotors is people using air driven impact wrenches to tighten lug nuts-never let anyone use those things on your vehicle-those things called torque sticks which are supposed to keep the impact wrenches from overtorquing your lug nuts don't work IMHO. I take my $175 snap on click type torque wrench and make the tire jockeys use it on my lug nuts while I watch.

Rotors can be warped by hitting large water puddles when the rotors are really wet but in 20+ years of driving honda's-never happened to me-torque wrenches every time.

gregoryc1

I make it a point to carry a Torque Wrench in the trunk of our Honda vehicles for this purpose. If I have to change a tire on the road, I can torque the wheel lug nuts on the road. For $25.00 you can get a Torque Wrench at Sears. This together with an extension and a deep socket will complete your tool kit for this process. -----Greg

isellhondas

I was skeptical of those torque sticks, but they do work and they are accurate assuming the installer uses the right one.

And greg is right. An inexpensive beam type torque wrench will do the job just as well as the 175.00 one.

03lxv6

Hello Auburn,

Wonder if you had some idea about my problem.

1-month new 2003 LX V6 AT with just 650 miles. Sometimes the car key is quite warm after the trip, though not so hot that I could not even touch it. Dealer told me it was normal. Don't quite buy it.

Thanks again.

hmurphy

Hello all,

I posted a message earlier about a grinding brake noise after the car sits for a bit.

Now the noise has intensified and happens even if it sits for only 20 minutes or so, and even on warm, dry days (someone posited that it might be condensation or rust buildup).

It happens the first three or four times I put on the brakes after the car has been turned off. Not only does it make the horrible noise, but it also takes longer to stop. On a grade, such as in a parking garage, the car actually skids forward a bit, which is alarming.

The dealer agrees that it's abnormal. They have called Honda Engineering in California to see what to do. The dealer doesn't seem to have an answer. At least they're admitting it's a problem...

Has anyone else had this problem? There are only 750 miles on the car. I've never had a car with ABS before (not sure that it's worth it), so I don't have any experience with this.

No warning lights have come on.

Any advice/input is appreciated.

snowful

Sounds like everyone's keys are warm after you turn off the car. Mine is warm but not so hot that I can't touch it. Seems normal to me - for what it's worth.

stickershox

I've read there have been some problems with brakes and today I experienced a loud screeching metal-to-metal noise with my right front tire. I think they were the brakes but not sure. The noise went away but I'm worried about this as today my Accord 03 EX Auto 4 Cyl just turned 1 month old. I did not have problems until today.

I'll post if anything else sounds weird.

hmurphy

The dealer just called and said that Honda confirms a brake pad problem with the new four- and six-cylinder models (i.e., all of them). Honda has come up with a fix for the four-cylinder models (something about a pad insulator?) and is working on a fix for the six-cylinder models. The dealer said that they may not have an answer for a few weeks or more.

The dealer claims that it is ok to drive the car in the meantime and they have lubed this and tightened that as a temporary fix. Since it only happens the first few times I use the brakes (usually at light stops), it seems like it's ok to drive.

I'll see if I can get more specific information about the problem from the dealer. If anyone has dealt with this problem and had it fixed, it would be great to know how it was resolved.

hmurphy

I just picked up the car and asked for a bit more explanation from the serviceperson.

He said that the problem lies with the noise insulator pad for the brakes. Since the problem is widespread, Honda has apparently redesigned the insulator pad for the four-cylinder models, but is still working on a redesign for the six-cylinder models.

As a temporary fix, the dealer added a composite goo that supposedly hardens to provide a measure of noise insulation. The brakes don't make the noise now, but I don't know how long that will last.

I am supposed to check back in a few weeks to see whether Honda has come up with a fix (I guess it would be just too difficult for them to get in touch with me

I really don't know enough about brake operation and design to know whether this sounds logical.
When I hear about the permanent fix from Honda, I'll post the information.

It's disappointing to have this happen with a new car, but it's just a machine, and Honda seems to be doing something about it.

maxhonda99

Gregoryc1,

>>>With all the things that could possibly go wrong with this Honda, he feels that a set of brakes should last more than 60,000 miles, and an alternator should last more than 85,000 miles. These expectations are not reasonable for these two items.<<<<

I agree with you on the brake pads-since I go through my fronts about every 25K miles and rears about every 35K miles on cars I've owned so far. I do think he's unreasonable on that count and my advice to him would be to drive even slower than he already is. The Alternator I agree somewhat on. I guess 85K is a reasonable lifespan for a alternator, but I have never had one go bad on any car in my household before 100K miles.

gregoryc1

Thank you for your support! ----Greg

rmd122

Where is the A/C filter on my 01 Accord? How do I change it?

03lxv6

hmurphy,

Could you kindly explain what kind of noise and under what condition does it happen. I see you said every 03 Accord has the problem.

Thanks.