Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Grand Cherokee window regulators

A while a ago when i got in my jeep i noticed my passenger side window had fallen all the way down and wont go up. From what i learned on the internet i assume its the regulator. Right now i have a block holding up the window but its still not up all the way. Can anyone break down for me how to open up the door panel completely and replace the regulator? I don"t know much about cars but i have a feeling it will cost alot to take it to an auto shop to replace. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
«1

Comments

  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    Hey man I got the same problem (except I was able to some how force the window to close) and am too wondering how much it costs to replace it. I have intermidiate skill and want to know if, by any chance, I can fix it myself.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    I had the same problem with a friends Grand Cherokee on both the front and rear window. This was one of the weak spots on this model. Unfortunately the window lift mechanism is manufactured as one unit and you can not replace just the motor for example, the entire mechanism must be replaced as one unit. As you can imagine, this is quite expensive to purchase at the dealer. It is a pain to remove, but a junk yard is going to be the most cost efficient repair.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    I had my drivers side window regulator go out last May. There are other posts on Jeep Grand Cherokee forums on this site on how to carefully with a putty knife go around a pop out the plastic retainers and there is at least one phillips screw on the door handle/grab as well. Or go to this site http://www.wjjeeps.com/doors/doorpanel.htm

    I found a regulator/motor assembly warranted from a bunch of internet suppliers like a1auto for around $100. The dealer wanted over $200 for just the part (another tip, they want $3 EACH for the plastic door retainers since you will probably break a few and there are 10 of them ... NAPA sells a package for $6). While it's a little hairy reaching between the inner/outer sheet metal covers it's only a few machine screws to remove and take good notes using the web site above. Obviously take great care handling the window glass. The hardest part was getting the door panel back on especially lining up all those retainers, but mine has worked fine since May. I'd done this a few times on a 87 Caravan which had a plastic geared mechanism that frequently broke, so I wasn't worried about doing it knowing I needed 2-3 hours to invest and saving $400. Good luck.
  • thanks for the help, do you sell the steel retainer?
  • I invested in a $240.00 regulator from Jeep and installed in my 2004 driver's door.
    After the installation I tore the old one apart and found the following. If your cables are O.K. but one cable end is seperated from the window channel that rises up and down on the track, The plastic part that holds the cable ends in place is broken. In my experiance the top cable end that raises the window up breaks from its retainer, usally not the down cable. This is a poor design and can be fixed by the do-it yourselfer. I found a retainer that repairs the broken plastic piece for $30.00
    on the internet and fixed myself. No need to pay Jeep for complete regulator if this is all that's broke on yours.

    Good Luck :) :) :)
  • I have a 99 GC Limited. When using the power locks the rear hatch accuator just makes a ratchet noise and will not unlock the rear hatch or window. Anybody had this problem and where is the best place to buy an electric accuator or selinoid or whatever you want to call it.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    See my posting #4000 in the JGC Maintenance and Repair forum if you are having problems with the power window express up feature.
  • tcavendertcavender Posts: 2
    I'm in the process of changing the regulator of the left rear window on my 2004 Grand Cherokee. Before removing the regulator mechanism from inside the door, the window has to be dislodged from the slot it sits in. How did you accomplish that. I want to be careful not to damage the window. Also, any suggestions on a website to purchase a new regulator. Dealer's price is over $250.00.
  • My wife just was told it cost between 60 and 300 dollars to repair her drivers side window because the up cable has busted in her 2000 Grand Cherokee...
    Need to know where to go to buy this and if I really have to purchase a whole new regulator.
  • I already used the site naatz1(clever) states to get the panel off. so how do I get to the window and cables with out making a mess out of the rubber thing under the panel?
  • I have noticed for a while that when I close my power windows on my 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (65th edition) that they make a very loud noise, as if the window is trying to close farther than the door will allow. Does this behavior precede the problems that people have had with the window regulators? If not, does anyone know what the problem is? It doesn't seem right to me that the windows are so loud when they close, and I am concerned that the windows and/or regulator will get damaged. thanks.
  • In your search engine, type josh-n-lisa.com. Josh explains with pictures exactly how to change the regulator. It just takes a little time but will save you big bucks. Good luck...
  • stp2stp2 Posts: 1
    GOOD NEWS...the window regulator is easy to fix!
    Yes, I too had both front door window regulators fail...I was extremely frustrated with quotes over $400 each. DO NOT PAY THAT. I purchased this Jeep new and absolutely love the vehicle (No I don't work for Chrysler, or sell Jeeps). Over 130,000 miles and still running great. (other then the window regs).

    Search the internet for aftermarket parts. You can get robust reverse engineered regulators for no more than $50.

    The fix is easy even if you aren't into fixing cars. (no I'm not an engineer or mechanic) Total repair if you have a phillips screwdriver, torx bits, and metric socket wrench set
    Step 1: 2 standard screws and 1 torx screw secure the door panel trim to the steel door. Remove those first. (one is behind a plastic cap up by the tailfin by the rearview mirror)
    Step 2: Plastic clips secure the perimeter of the door panel trim to the steel door. Pull the door panel from the steel door...most clips will remain intact. If they break they can be found at all major hardware stores for pennies.
    Step 3: Remove the two steel latch and lock bars from the handle mechanism. The clip pivots at the attachment on the handle. Once the clips are rotated away from the doorpanel, pull the steel bars up. They will simply pop out.
    Step 4: Disconnect the upper speaker and disconnect the main door switch wire harnesses.
    Step 5: Remove the speaker - remove 4 screws and unplug wire harness.
    Step 6: Pull vinly barrier from steel door. Tacky glue will not harden.
    Step 7: Remove the 7 screws securing window regulator to steel door with socket wrench/screwdriver.
    Step 8: Detatch acutual window from window regulator track by pulling the brass color U-clips out of the bracket. The window will detatch. Careful!!! The window is now free to float..nothing is holding it up.
    Step 9: Remove the whole window regulator and track through the opening in the sheet steel.
    Reverse the steps to re-install your new part.
  • could you please tell me were to get the retainer
  • I own a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee and recently my power windows, power locks, and interior dome light have stopped working for the most part.

    Driver Door: none of the window controls will work; power mirrors work; power locks only control driver door
    Passenger Front: power window does not work; power lock will control all doors except driver
    Dome light: will come on if I do it manually, does not respond to door being open

    I have looked at most of the fuses, but do not see one labeled windows and locks. Is this my problem or is there another issue? Thanks in advance
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    check the wires that go from front of door to body (sounds as if you have broken wire in the wires where they bend when ever you open the door)
  • I have the same problem. did you find help? or how to fix that?
    I check all my fuses but it loocks like good.

    some one can help???
  • kstrieterkstrieter Posts: 1
    Call Chrysler about your jeep grand cherokee window regulators.

    Both my front regulators broke. I called Chrysler about it and they were willing to work with me so i could get the regulators replaced while only paying a copay instead of the full $400. I paid $50 as my copay for each window and that covered the dealership replacing the regulator and putting in a brand new window.

    This was on my 2003 jeep grand cherokee, and Chrysler even gave me the copay deal with my jeep having over 100,000 miles on it.
  • The window regulators on the Jeep are defective and they should have been recalled.I have had this problem with the same window twice.
    Thinking about a class action suit.
    If anybody is interested contact me.
    I have a consumer attorney
  • After arguing with my local dealer, I've now had to pay $400 to replace the driver-side regulator only months after paying $400 for the passenger side, on my 2003 grand cherokee.

    Calling Chrysler was absolutely no help -- they denied there is a problem, which is pretty silly given it took all of 5 minutes to research and find there IS a problem. From what I read, I can expect the other two regulators to fail in the coming months as well. Unbelievable.

    Why is there no class action for this?
  • undrsiegeundrsiege Posts: 1
    do you remember where you bought the retainer clips?
  • I didn't need any. But I got the regulator from Advanced Auto . I'm sure if you do a search you will find them on their web site. Also I remember reading that NAPA also has them. Thanks to this site I replaced my regulator for $97.00 instead of around $450.00 :)
  • Two windows just went out on my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Two windows in less than a week. I'm interested in joining a class-action if anyone knows of one.
  • Same here, both front windows last week. Both shimmed for now. What a pain in the butt!!
  • listen fix it yourself, Im 63 and have not work on my cars in years. With the help of this site and the price and web site of Advanced Auto Parts, I fixed it for $97.00. It is not hard, take your time and think when you are doing it. You do not need to get it all done in one day. Once you look see what is going on , you put some wood to hold window up. (I left two bolts in also). It took me about 45 min., if I had to do it again it would take me 20 min. I agree there should have been a recall. I did not buy a new jeep this time. :D
  • After replacing the front passenger side window regulator of my daughters 2001 Jeep Cherokee, she then had both rear window regulators go out and on my other daughters 2003 Jeep Liberty she had one rear window regulator go out. After I had the first one fixed, I had the other three blocked up until I could decide what I wanted to do. Then I found the following website: http://www.josh-n-lisa.com/2006/08/29/howto-change-a-jeep-power-window-regulator- / .

    So I taped the windows up and took the three regulators out. I begin thinking of ways to repair. I went to Home Depot and purchased cotter pins (3/32 x 3/4 inch). For the Jeep Cherokee, I run a cotter pin around the cable and through the hole of the plastic nylon piece that had broke and secured it on the backside. I went ahead and put a cotter pin in the one that was not broke so I would not have to do it again in the future and just to provide a better secure fit, I put some marine epoxy in the holes to fill eliminate the wobble. Put it all back together and BINGO FIXED! Works like a charm.

    For the Jeep Liberty, the regulator is completely different. But I used the same technique to repair it. I drilled a small hole “3/32) through the plastic anchor being careful not to pierce the side that slides on the tracking bar. Then I placed the cotter pin around the cable and sunk it between the spring that covers the cable to provide the clearance I needed so the tracking would slide freely and secured it on the back side. ONCE again BINGO FIXED!

    Thanks to the referenced website. It got me to thinking and considering ways to repair them rather than replace them. You cannot just get the piece that is broke, you have to purchase the complete unit. It took very little time and effort to repair. Cost: 70 cents for a bag of cotter pins and 5 dollars for the epoxy.
  • I'm in. Today I'm replacing window #2 and waiting with bated breath for the other two to fail. I'm a single mother on a limited income (especially with the economy the way it is) and I can't afford to keep paying to replace something that they know darn well they should have recalled a LONG time ago. :mad:
  • actmiller :shades: I like your style, Thanks for the tip!! for the rest, I concur, this plan of action DOES work like a charm!

    To clarify, I did everything as mentioned, additionally I had to pop out the rivet that connects the plastic cable housing to the top of the track. I had to disconnect the track in order to have room to get the cotter pin securely attached around the cable. When I re-attached the track to the cable housing, instead of using another rivet, I used a 3/32 x 3/4" metal screw with a lock nut.

    One other tip is be generous with the epoxy.... I had to do this procedure twice, b/c the first time I didn't use enough..... Good Luck!
  • hankeyjhankeyj Posts: 1
    Hello! I, too, have a window regulator on the front passenger side go out-would you care to send us the Chrysler TN and whom you spoke to about your $50. co-pay? I am sure we would all appreciate it....thanks
  • Thanks for the idea with cotter pin( refuse to spend anymore money on this piece of crap) . I am now on my third window regulator of my 2002 Grand Cherokee. I had the rear replaced and the front passenger regulator went four days later.
«1
This discussion has been closed.