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Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 or 6.7

I was wondering what anyones thoughts were on the new 6.7 diesel versus the 5.9. Are there pros and cons to each or is one clearly better than the other.

Also is the 4 speed automatic on the 5.9 enough? I am new to the "real" truck scene and need to purchase one for pulling a toy hauler.

Comments

  • oldtecholdtech Posts: 29
    I OWN A 2007 2500 RAM WITH THE 6.7 DIESEL. THE NEW BLUTEC EMISSION SYSTEM FAILS CONSTANTLY CAUSING THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME. THE LIGHT HAS COME ON 7 TIMES IN 6000 MILES. THE TRUCK HAS BEEN IN THE SHOP THE PAST 8 DAYS FOR TURBOCHARGER REPLACEMENT. MY ADVISE IS TRY TO FIND A 5.9. IT DOESNT HAVE THE BLUTEC EMISSION SYSTEM AND WILL LIKELY BE MUCH MORE RELIABLE.
    OLDTECH
  • allmattallmatt Posts: 1
    I have 50,000km on my truck, the dealer say's that my engine is not under warranty do to lack of maintenance. It was serviced by a licenced mechanic at approx. every 10,000 km. my air filter service indicator was inspected everytime and appeared O.K.. @ 42,000 km I noticed alot of blow by and notified the dealer. upon ther inspection they found that the airfilter had been sucked into the intake. the truck was only 9 mths old and serviced regularly. In the warranty booklet it only says which we followed to check idicator for air filter service. the dealer tells me they have seen this before, therefore no warranty.
  • mechjonmechjon Posts: 1
    does any one know if a 360 tranny is same as v-10
  • gfirnegfirne Posts: 1
    2007 Ram 2500, 6.7L, 6 speed manual transmission 2 wheel drive. I purchased the vehicle used and knew the clutch was bad, compromised with price negotiations. The problem I am having now as before I had a new LUK Dual Mass Flywheel and all related components changed is when I am backing up the truck with my 5th wheel trailer connected. The truck / clutch chatters violently. It is almost as if the springs on the DMF are winding up and then releasing. I have to slip the clutch to back it slightly uphill into my driveway, that's when I notice the problem the most. If I am in a position where I can just let the clutch out and back up it seems to be fine. I had a local clutch service facility install the components and they assured me that they were the exact replacement as the original. I actually ordered the DMF from LUK myself. Is anyone else having this problem?? or any ideas.
  • Since I know a little about this I thought it a good idea to share it. the 5.9 is tried and proven... the 6.7 employs a shorter connecting rod thereby adding to skirt pressure against the cylinder bore. Adding to the bore is a no brainer as there's more than enough iron to handle the over bore. Realistically speaking, in marine trim via Mercury Marine, the 5.9 is rated at 480HP continous. Accordingly, I've no clue the bump in cubic inches to make it a 6.7... other than keeping up with the other rust belt two.
    We intentionally purchased an 06 with the 5.9 rather than an 07 with the 6.7... there was simply too many things to go wrong with a first generation big bore engine hosting a tremendous amount of new technology... Maybe.., and no promises as the 6.7's seem to be fuel guzzlers (emissions, again) but maybe, we'll purchase a 6.7 but the truth is, the 5.9 drags our five tons of trailer around, up hill, down hill, everywhere with pedal to spare... how can I complain?
  • Yes, I have the same problem when I try to push my 38' 5th Wheel up an incline or in reverse on surfaces that are not concrete. I put a heavier clutch in but, it doesn't seem to be working. As a matter of fact I'm finding now that I have problems even shifting into reverse at a dead stop. So, bottom line I haven't found a fix and would greatly appreciate any help. My truck is a 2004 3500 dually with a 5.9L engine and 6 speed manual transmission.
    I seen that you posted your question in October of last year so, I thought you might have discovered a fix.
    Thank You!
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