Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





300C: Power Window shanannigans

I owned a 2005 300 Limited, now I have a 2007 300C. Both cars have exhibited interesting inconsistent issues with power window buttons. Currently, on the new 2007 - the driver window won't perform the AUTO up feature. At first I thought there might be a trick as to when the AUTO feature engauges. But it behaves inconsistently and I cannot determine what's causing the problem. On my 2005 I had rear window switch issues where the switches flat-out stopped working.

Is it a prevelant problem on the 300s? Window switches being bad?

Comments

  • There is a Technical Service Bulletin (#08-011-07 REV. A) dated 06.26.2007, it specifically addresses your problem. The fix is to replace both front door modules.
    There is a method for re-setting the auto up feature described in your owners manual. The re-set procedure does work, because I have done it to my drivers side window when it has defaulted to the manual mode a couple of times.
  • jloiaconojloiacono Posts: 12
    I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY POWER WINDOW[AUTO-UP-DOWN]
    I GAVE THE DEALER THE SERV.BULLETIN #. THEY WILL ORDER THE DOOR MODULES. I'M WAITING 4 WEEKS. THEY SAY --NATIONAL BACK-ORDER. I CAN'T FIND THE RE-SET PROCEDURE IN MY OWNERS MANUAL. CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE TO LOOK. I HAVE AN 06 300 C.
  • vic10vic10 Posts: 188
    No longer own the car (mine was an '05) but memory says the next time you raise the window, you just pull up on the switch and then hold it up after the window fully closes for 3 or so seconds. Mine seemed to lose the function every 3 or 4 months.
  • I have an 06 300C that I purchased new in Aug 05 with only 26000 miles on it. Generally love it, but the R/R window quit working. Luckily its in the "up" position. The switch on the drivers door and the switch on the R/R door do nothing. What will be involved in fixing this ? I'm two months out on the 3 year part of the warranty. I also think the heater core started leaking. On an otherwise warm and dry evening the windshield fogged up when I started the engine. I had driven about 150 miles, stopped for dinner then was about to return home when the problem occurred. During the return trip, the interior of the car became quite warm, humid and smelled of radiator fluid. I have experienced this problem before, but only on MUCH OLDER cars. And it turned out to be a leaking heater core that was a real bear to get at. Anyone else had premature failures like this on their relatively new 300C's ?
  • The rear window not working is EXACTLY what happened to me on my 2005 300. I don't know if the dealer replaced the switches, or reset the computer by disconnecting the battery. Have you tried that?

    In regards to a heater core failure on a 3 yr old car, that is very discouraging. I have not heard of this behavior on Chrysler 300s, but it might be worth starting a new thread focusing on heater cores - and see who responds. Hidden within the power window thread it might mask an otherwise bigger problem. Heater cores are horrible because 1) they're so difficult to typically get at and 2) they really smell up the car and ventilation.
  • I reported yesterday about a heater core leak on my 06 300C that is just over three years old and has just over 26000 miles on it. I placed it with the power window problem first, so this core thing might not otherwise be picked up by those of you knowing of similar problems. It is at my local dealer getting replaced today. They confirmed that the smell and fogging could only be from that source. The better news is that the book only calls for 1.6 hrs for the job. That with the part will keep the replacement under $500. Luckily I checked that this price was absolute, as turns out, it did not include the time for draining and re-chargeing the A/C system, which is apparently necessary. It has been my previous experience that changing heater cores is a real bear of a job, taking several hours at best. That would be $$$. As it turns out, apparently the designers got this one right. It is relatively easy to get to this one and the replacement part is under $200. I am anxious to see the old part and try to determine why it failed so soon. This kind of problem is normally reserved for Much older vehicles. I'm sure its just a pin-hole, but none the less, it does require an immediate fix. I'll report further on the later details of this and the R/R window repair.
  • Sorry to hear that issues was not covered by the warranty. I had a problem with my rear window's sticking in the hot climate I live in Central Florida. The issue was not mechanical or electrical. Let me know how everything turns out.

    :surprise: Curious!
  • The dealer had my car all day yesterday to do what was supposed to be a 1.6 hour heater care replacement. That part wound up taking over five hours. Finding the problem with the window added to that. My car wasn't ready until 6:30 PM. I paid only the quoted price for the core job, but the bill still came to $549. A lot of $, but lots better than it could have been. The window didn't get fixed due to no part. They said it was a bad regulator, but that when they put the door panel back on, it apparently jiggled the wiring so that the window started working again ??? I don't understand how "jiggling the wires" would make a "bad" regulator start working again. It sounds more like a bad electrical connection that made better contact after the door panel was snapped back into place. We are currently having the first rain storm in many months, so I don't want to take a chance of lowering the window and not being able to close it. Service manger said that it might work for a little while but stop again at any time. When I asked what I should do if the thing quit again with the window down, he showed me where to pound on the inside of the door panel to get it going again. They will want about $300 to fix that. I don't know, but I'm still thinking loose connection. I just don't get how pounding gets a broken/bad regulator to work again ??? I think its possible that the dealer might be trying to replace parts that only need the electrical connection fixed. Perhaps to get more work going into their shop in these hard times ? It is something to think about. There are some dealers in the greater area that have already closed their doors due to the slow economy. I hate to think that they are getting that desperate, but I am going to investigate further... I'll keep you posted.
  • vic10vic10 Posts: 188
    The left rear window on my '05 300C would stick closed on hot days. I found I could sort of prevent this by tapping the window switch open in the morning, when it was cooler. Just taking it off the stop. Seemed to work. But eventually took it to the dealer who replaced the motor and regulator assembly, PN 5065473AC. That was in July '06. Has worked perfectly since (at least till I sold the car in April of this year.....)
  • I had the same issue with the rear window on the left and right. :shades: For some reason I never had a problem with the front window. live in Florida and it usually it is about 110 degrees or higher in my car between 11a - 5:30p so the windows would stick. That was about a year ago. No problem for some reason this summer. I
  • I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE AUTO UP ON MY 06 300 C. THE DEALER WAS GOING TO ORDER NEW WINDOW MODULES. DEALER WENT OUT OF BUSINESS. SOMEBODY ON THIS SITE SAID TO HOLD THE SWITCH IN THE UP POSITION FOR A FEW SECONDS. IT WORKED. I HAVE AN 09 300 C NOW--HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE DRIVERS WINDOW. HOLDING THE SWITCH IN THE UP POSITION DOESN'T WORK. I'LL HAVE TO GO BACK TO THE DEALER.
  • maryk5maryk5 Posts: 3
    Where do you find the bulletins, I have been searching for an issue I am having with my 2007 chrysler 300 where the engine revs up or slows down almost to a stall then straightens out. I am now in my extended warranty and they can't find it. It cost me $100 today for the extended warranty deductible to know nothing more after leaving. Frustrated. Mary
  • Did you find a solution to the reving up. I have had the same problem and the dealer cannot find it. When idling at a light or stop sign and only once while driving the vehicle lunged forward and reved up. If I did not have my foot on the brake it would lunge forward. They put in in the computer, like every other answer, and found nothig.
  • ray89ray89 Posts: 3
    Have owned my 300c since new in 2005. the left rear window has worked off and on since then. It may work for awhile, then just stop. Its a if the switch is shot, then it will start working again. Go figure. Anyone have the front end clunking problem yet? My dealer has replaced every part in the front suspension and it still clunks when I hit a bump. Good thing I have the extended warranty.
  • burkeyburkey Posts: 5
    Rear window cannot be activated by switches in back or master switch on drivers side--any solutions
  • burkey,

    Sorry to hear you are having concerns with the power windows on your 2006 Chrysler 300C. Sounds like you may have a wiring concern or possibly bad switches.

    You may want to consider having the vehicle diagnosed by your local authorized Chrysler Service Department or a trusted mechanic.

    Good Luck.

    Lisa
    Customer Care
    Chrysler Group LLC
Sign In or Register to comment.