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Chevy Blazer Fuel Pump and Pressure Regulator Problems

i have a 1997 chevy Blazer, won't start by just turning the key i have to dump fuel down the top of it. i was told i have to replace the fuel pressure regulator and i can't seem to find it. Can someone guide me where to find it and if any other idea's what could be my problem please let me know.
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Comments

  • I am having problems with the fuel pump on my 97 Blazer. I am not getting the whinning noise when turing the ignition on. I have checked the relays, they are clicking, but not getting power to the fuel pump. I verified this by disconnecting the plug form the fuel pump and checking the 12 line, I get nothing.

    This happened the other night also. I was working on a problem I had with the trailer wiring, and I believe the problem came from leaving the ignition on too long.

    Anyone have any ideas on what to check next??? I am stumped.

    Thanks
    Dano
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    just because the relays are clicking doesnt mean that they are good. Put in a new fuse and relay and give it a try.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    You can switch relays with the same # in the underhood box and retry also. Pump only comes on for 2 sec as you turn key on to pressurize - need to put a pressure tester on at the fuel rail (Actron sold at most stores for under $40) and see what pressure if any really there. If when you put the key in and turn to run the security light should go out after 5 sec - if its blinking you acivated passlock.
  • I didn't hear the fuel pump come on when key is on so I assumed pump was shot. Replaced pump , relay, still no buzz from the pump. I don't have a fuel pressure guage, but at the port on the fuel line right behind carb, if you press it in you should have fuel spurt out,right? Also, at the 4-pin connector on the pump, I have 5 volts on purple wire, good ground on 2 black wires. What should the gray wire do?
  • Per the Haynes diagram for a typical V6 CPI the black is ground, the purple is the sender unit to the gage, and gray is the hot from the relay. There are 2 parallel paths for gray, 1 thru the fuel pump relay and 1 thru the oil pressure switch and both run thru the ECM fuse. Check the fuses. Input to relay shows black/white ground and dark green/white ign hot to energize the relay and then orange feeds hot thru from the ECM fuse to gray. Caution - your colors could be different - this was the typical wiring diagram - best I have. Post back when you get it going so others know.
  • H i i have a 92 s10 blazer and its a fuel problem. i have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, and the cmfi unit, "you know the little spider thing". And now it will run for like 15 20 minuts and then it just shuts down some where. Please anybody can you help me.
  • Replace the fuel pump relay or switch with one the same # and see if its that. When it shuts off are you sure you have no fuel pressure? Could be spark? Have to test.
  • well i pulled a spark plug and it was getting spark. And when it dies I sprayed a little starting fluid and it ran just a little off that you know fired off the stuff. I did that b/c i dont have a fuel pressure gauge. Yea and where is the fuel pump relay switch I cant find it for nothing. thanks
  • 92 should be under hood drivers firewall and if CPI injection and no throttle body inj (TBI) you need 60psi to start and 53 to run so you have to test the pressure sometime toi rule it out.
  • Wow is it one of those two relays right on the firewall driver side? I'll check them, but I have a chilton manuel and it says its behind the dash man i tore half my dash out trying to find it. But ill check thoses two and the pressure. Thanks hope i figuer it out. I mite be back. lol
  • I have a 1987 chevy blazer K-5. I just put in a new fuel pump and the pump won't run. I have power all the way to the gas tank, could there be a bad ground somewhere?
  • When I turn the ignition on the fuel pump runs continusly the engine runs fine when you start it but when you turn it off the fuel pump runs for another five seconds then stops???
  • Believe it runs for about 2 sec after the ign turned off by the relay but there is a secomdary path that runs off the oil pressure switch which will power it until oil pressure drops (believe to about 5 lbs) - all is OK.
  • Fuel pump stopped working and I replaced it. New fuel pump worked for about 1 week and then stopped again. If I crawl under the vehicle and unplug the 2 electrical connectors on the fuel pump and plug them back in again it starts working for about a day.
    Any advice would help before I drop the tank again.

    Thanks
  • 97 has a known problem with the ignition switch which is the connector and wiring in the steering column that all power goes thru. Fuel pump relay maybe failing. Connectors on the pump maybe corroded. Ground maybe bad to pump.
  • Ok, so after reading all of these posts and talking to my mechanic it sounds like I have the same problem with my 97 blazer. However, I'm a young blonde woman and I often have difficulties with mechanics because they like to over charge me. This time I'm doing my research. Can anyone give me a good estimate on what this should cost to have the garage fix? They've already had the car for a day and barely looked at it... Thank you!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    At Advance part is $100 - Part No. S193 GP Sorensen Ignition Starter Switch so add labor (don't have the book on it sorry). Shop will use their local part brand and add some markup. They can give a full quote once the repair is confirmed as the needed one. I've found the dealer is pretty good on Blazer repairs cause they do the same ones all the time, have the scanners, and the tech bulletins.
  • I replaced my fuel pump again and this time the new fuel pump came with different pig tail connectors. When changing out the new fuel that lasted only a week, I noticed that the sending unit was loose on the fuel pump itself. Replaced the old pig tails with new ones and the fuel pump itself, no problem so far
  • Well they just quoted me at $800. It's the fuel pump not the starter switch.
  • New fuel pump for my 97 Blazer was $289 from advanced auto parts… Took me about 2 ½ hours to install…. Not sure why they are charging $500 extra. Could be a more expensive pump or high labor cost…
  • doesn't it seem like $500 is a bit much extra to charge? They've already done the work though. What do I do?
  • If they have already done the work than you will have to pay them to get your car back… I am sure that they will give you an itemized receipt of the work. Car repairs are expensive sometimes. It’s a good practice once you know what to the problem to call around. However, this is something that I think we have all learned the hard way…
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Ask for pump brand and price breakdown. Delco pump list price is over $400. Make sure they give you a one year warranty on the part/work too because some aftermarket pumps fail early.
  • Thanks everyone. Just a word of warning to all of those replacing fuel pumps to definitely ask around to other places. I ended up paying $775 to replace mine ... $500 for the part and $225 for the labor (3 hours of labor). I was quoted at another place for around $575 but I was at the mercy of the garage I was at because I was away from home and since the car would not start, I would have had to pay for towing again. I definitely have learned the hard way and I don't think anyone should have to pay over $600 to have this done.
  • So I have determined that the fuel pump is not working. I have powered the test lead and still fuel pump did not run. I dropped the tank and broken one fitting on the sending unit and also on the other end of the tank where I could not see when dropping the tank I borke another little plastic fitting thingamaboob. I can replace the sendingunit and fuel pump.....But know one understands what I am asking for when I discribe the thingamaboob. Does anyone know what they call this thingamaboob? Also I unpluged the fuel pump and vierifed that I was getting power at the pump when the key was turned on. I also verified that I had a good ground......So with all this I have to say that the pump is bad.....I still need help I dentifiying the thingamaboob......

    Thanks in advance
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Go online and look at some of the pics at sites like rockauto and gmpartsdirect for help on ID.
  • I have taken a look at thoses sites and not much luck......

    I think it is called a Fuel Tank Vent Valve.........

    Anyone???
  • This has just started thought the fuel pump went out replaced complete pump and float canister. Still didn't work checked fuses blown 20amp max fuse. Replaced fuse cranked right up. Drove it about 15 miles blown fuse. tried new fuse blew fuse. towed home waited couple days decided to try again replaced fuse cranked right up. drove 25 miles blew fuse again. any help why fuse keeps blowing.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If this was a Chevy Blazer I'd say look at the relay and the wiring and connector to the pump. Relays go bad and connectors get loose and corroded. Also check the ground wire probably pump to frame which means the engine to firewall strap (on a Blazer) must be in place. I don't do Fords.
  • I know how it can be. I am a mechanic that quit working because customers disrespected me simply because of the abuses they suffered from other dishonest and or simply incompetent mechanics. Not everybody who can buy a wrench is a mechanic, and that goes for those with computer programs that can print out fancy looking mechanics licenses etc. to hang on the wall.
    Try this. Besides doing your homework (always a good idea regardless of fixing a car or a disease) and getting a second opinion, try carrying a digital recorder and take lots of 'notes' while you are at the mechanics place of business. Don't shove it in their faces, but don't hide it either.
    Odds are good that they will suspect that you likely work for a bureau of auto repairs (California) or some other agency. Can't hurt, eh? ;)
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