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Lexus LS: Problems & Solutions

19698100101102

Comments

  • hyperopthyperopt Posts: 55
    The starter is not located internally within the engine, but rather externally. It just take lots of work to get to it. From a designer point of view, the current starter location is a great place to occupy unused space to save space, and I can see why Lexus choose that location and I have no reason to think Lexus would move the starter to a different location. From a repair shop point of view, it is great place to work on since more work = more money. From a consumer point of view, it's just hell.
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    I got quoted $1200-1400 dollars for a starter today in Orange County and I need some shims to quiet my valve train to replace 2 to 4 shims is $600.00 to $700.00 from the lexus dealer on a 91 lexus LS400. Speak about lexus being expensive to repair a man today paid $4000.00 to repair his air condition and change it to the new freon 134 and another chap had to pay $10,000.00 for a new engine for his 98 lexus he burned up by not pulling over when his water temp gauge went into the red. But in the long run I have found that the Lexus is really not much more to keep up than other cars on the road today. It's said there is no car built like a Lexus anywhere in the world today bar none. ;)
  • I just bought a 96 LS and I have noticed the driver's seat cushion seems to 'bounce' slightly when I go over a large bump. Is this a defect? If so an expensive one?

    Also, do Ceramic brake pads last longer than the OEM's?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Yeah, that's not normal for the seat.

    Also, I think ceramics last well, but may not work to specs with your rotors.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I often wonder if anyone looking for long-lived brake pads might have a secret death wish.

    Personally I look for brake pads that EAT rotors for lunch and vice versa.

    Ever think about those ads for lifetime brake pads might be somewhat self full-filling..??
  • wwest- They came with the car (I just bought it) and I don't care for the 'feel'....

    Funny remarks though... :)

    Any easy fix to my bouncy seat??????
  • chendchend Posts: 13
    I own a 99 LS 400 and live in Central New Jersey. Does anyone know of a good Lexus shop run by former Lexus
    mechanics in CENTRAL NJ. My Front right suspension is fine on most surfaces. But when I hit a small pot hole or a raised surface [ eg: driveway entrace where the driveway is abt an inch or more raised ] there is a THUD and it feels like the shocks have no effect at all. I had my mechanic check and he says everything in the suspension is snug and tight. Otherwise the ride is super. Thanks for your feedback. :)
  • lexkinglexking Posts: 10
    My Front right suspension is fine on most surfaces. But when I hit a small pot hole or a raised surface [ eg: driveway entrace where the driveway is abt an inch or more raised ] there is a THUD and it feels like the shocks have no effect at all. I had my mechanic check and he says everything in the suspension is snug and tight. Otherwise the ride is super. Thanks for your feedback."

    You need new Strut bars, they cannot be checked, every 80K to 90K they must be replaced in your generation of Lexus.
    If backing up then moving forward and applying the brakes make a thud this confirms the Strut Bars are bad.
  • chendchend Posts: 13
    Lexking - Thanks for your reply. I went to look for this "strut bar" at mant Lexus parts sites and I can not find it. I do see the following parts:
    (1) Strut mount
    (2) Strut rod bushing
    Could you help me by giving the name as Lexus would list it
    THANKS :)
  • chendchend Posts: 13
    On further exploration I found "Strut rod". Is this the same as "strut bar". Could you also tell me what other parts [ such as bushings etc. ] need to be changed at 80K at the same time I change the strut bars. Right now only the right side makes the THUD and not the LEFT side. Should I chnage BOTH or only the RIGHT.
    THANKS for your help. :)
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    It's always best to do both because when you start taking apart the front end you will probably find the other side is about ready to go also. Look in the yellow pages under auto repair and see if some one has a ad saying toyota and lexus repair this could save you money.
  • gwendolyngwendolyn Posts: 46
    I have the same problem after I replaced the strut bars or torsion bars....what else could cause this problem...my problem is the exact same one you're having....

    Also...another problem....

    I noticed a vibration around 60 mph, only when I press the accelerator....if I let off the accelerator, the vibration goes away....does anyone have an idea on this on...I replaced the transmission mount, but I have not replaced the motor mounts....

    Thanks,

    Gwen
  • chendchend Posts: 13
    I found a site http://www.lextreme.com/ [ look under V8 forums - suspension and handling tech ] I believe the
    solution is to replace the Strut Bar Cushion. I have not
    replaced mine yet. If you do, please post your results.

    Thanks :)
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    has any with an old lexus found that the lifters make noises such as a tappet type noise. The dealer wants 1100.00 dollars to adjust the valves I also have been told that a small noise is ok it doesn't hurt the engine to have noisy lifters I was also told that the lifters are solid lifters and when synthetic oil is used it makes them a little bit louder. I only notice one that is a bit louder than the rest and does anyone know if this is going to hurt the motor some lexus repair people said 7 yrs ago just run the car and not to worry so far after 100,000 miles the noise seems to be at the same level and the car runs fine. Does anyone know having loose lifters will it do damage to the motor it has 150,000 miles and seems ok I use 5-30 mobil one synthetic oil and drive long haul daily 100-200 miles any comments from some one who knows the lexus motor . I've been told its bullet proof and not to worry just drive it like h---. :confuse:
  • deadairdeadair Posts: 10
    I have an air conditioning problem with my 1995 LS. I had the a/c compressor changed last year and everything worked fine. But coming into summer, the air is not getting cold. I observe the compressor working and I added some 134. Now I notice that the clutch shuts on and off. The temp setting is set to max cold. It seemed to be cold as I was adding the 134, but no more. There is a slight cold, which would indicate that it’s not a leak. I read on some posts about the servos heat the air, even if the air is operating. Any troubleshooting tips before I take it to Lexus?
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    You can check your sight glass on the air conditioning out side of your radiator, when facing the engine look down to the left in a little cubby hole you will see a round glass that faces the front of the lexus have the air on and see if you see bubbles in the glass if so you need a charge if not then your system is full make sure you have the temp way down and the system blowing in the cabin before checking the site glass.Also almost any air conditioning shop can check it for you also in the winter always run the air once a week you can have the heat on just hit the a/c button for about 15 minutes the 134 freon need to be run through the system weekly it's not as friendly as the R12 we use to use. ;)
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Lexus has a dual mode pressure switch in the high pressure line side. If the pressure is TOO low that is an indication of the almost total lack of refrigerant and the controller will not run the compressor at all.

    The fact that the compressor cycles on and off is an indication that there is MORE than enough refrigerant to provide cooling at the (possibly too low) level the system is trying to provide it.

    The compressor cycles off once there is "TOO" much, enough, liquid refrigerant in the reservoir on the high pressure side.

    In the 92 models you can check the operation and/or position of the mixing vane servomotor by watch the push/pull cable position the hot water flow valve at the top center of the firewall inside the engine compartment.

    The how water valve should move from fully closed to fully open when you change the temperature setting from max cooling to max heating.

    Your 95 may operate the same way.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Unless the refrigerant contains a dye as some do you cannot tell the difference between an empty sight glass and one with liquid.

    The thing to do is watch the sight glass as the compressor comes on line. You should see the transition from empty to bubbles, bubbling flow, and then to a solid liquid flow.

    Once the compressor cycles off and as the stored refrigerant is exhausted via use the sight glass will transition in reverse, solid liquid to bubbling flow and then empty, and the compressor will, should, quickly restart.
  • mquickmquick Posts: 1
    I purchased a brand new 2005 LS 430 about 2 months ago (March 2006). I took it back to the dealer and left it there for them to check out the wind noise that occurs when the car exceeds 40 miles an hour. It is very loud at 60-70 miles per hour. The dealer had the car for 2 and a half weeks and said the District manager even road tested it and said it was normal.

    It is extremely loud. I am going to take it back again to see what the next level of review is. This is not a quiet car.
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