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Chevy Uplander Starting/Stalling Problems



  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Do you still have the original battery? Otherwise, it sounds like something electrical. Good luck.
  • willgowanwillgowan Posts: 1
    Ok here is the good news... It's fixable, and the people that did your maintenance are at fault. Why? Because when you run one of the hose clip fuel injector cleaners they have to hook into your lines. Well.. Your fuel feeder line has to be taken off with a special tool and if the mechanic didn't know what he was doing he yanked that line off. It works like a spring loaded airline clip. Snaps down and is supposed to lock but if it is pulled off it will not hold, even though it has a safety clip the line isn't held in place. To find out if the clip is held in tight use the fuel release valve on your fuel rail. If gas squirts out u have have if not then your stalling out. This thing is highly sneaky, it can crank and run for days and all of a sudden it slips up and no gas. It can happen while driving as well because if the line rotates to the front via vibration the line will pinch shut on you. A mechanic will holler fuel pump, rail, etc. check this first because every backyard mechanic will just pull it off so they don't need the tool. This line will also throw up an evap code too ( gas cap code ). I hope this helps and for those wanting to know I just spent 6 hours in a parking lot on Mother's Day due to this so check it even if you don't have the problem!!
  • mikewdmikewd Posts: 1
    edited July 2013
    Urgent, Dangerous and desperate -- Help needed please!

    We have a 2005 Chevy Uplander that is getting worse and GM dealer cant figure it out. Every few miles the van dies and the computer automatically does a full reset.

    It says starting disabled then it switches to reduced engine power. We cycle the ignition a few times. If it says starting disabled -- we turn it back off for a few more seconds and try again. Eventually, the starting disabled doesn't appear and it starts.

    NOTE: I have for the past year had to always give it a little gas to start even though it is electric fuel injected. IT also has to crank for 2-5 seconds to start. If I force hold up the RPM'S as I drive it stalls less. Every 5 miles or so instead every 1-3 miles.

    NOTE: I have also had issues for 3 years where the lights will flicker at night a bit or dim for a f few seconds. With computer doing a reset it is leaving no codes which is why dealership says it is a matter of trial and error.

    I did try a simple clean on throttle body but saw a more thorough way to do so in here today. I am also thinking mail computer, fuel sensor or fuel pump or heat sensor. But I do NOT know where the computer or heat sensors are.

    Please advise with a series of trial fixes easy and least expensive first hopefully or if you are pretty sure of issue please advise and tell me how to find the bad part.

    This is our only vehicle and we are semi retired on low income doing Ministry work so our funds are limited but we need the vehicle and it is now pretty dangerous to drive.

    Thank you

  • Mike,

    i have the same van, very frustrating. i have replaced the throttle body.. MAF sensor, plugs, ignition coil, plug wires, EGR, MAP sensor, Battery, Alternator, and just now the ECU (engine computer unit) which is located under the radiator bottle in a black box. its not too hard to get too either but this is where my current trouble begins.. i got a used ECU and just replaced the one in the engin compartment and now i get the "Starting Disabled" Message. it doesnt make a single sound either. just starting disabled.

    it would be nice to be able to find some method to reset this without involving a dealer. they wanted $660 to tear the top of the motor apart to DIAGNOSE a head gasket or possibly piston ring.... this is after they charged me $800 for a catalytic converter i apparently didnt need.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Sometimes a loose wire on the wiring harness that leads to the throttle body causes the problem. I would check the wiring harness. Good luck.
  • for anyone having starting issues!!! After replacing the fuel pump and still not getting gas we had an electrical specialist look at the wiring.. Your fuse block is the culprit. Pull the fuse block up after disconnecting the battery of course. Check your wires on the very back end under your run relays ( crank, fuel, etc)
    if you can push them up do it. Reconnect the battery and try it again. What I dont understand is why Chevy failed to notice this flaw. It solves most starting,stalling,idle,lights, everything that is run from that fuse block. shame on Chevy for being such buttheads!!
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