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Chevrolet Impala Starting/Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • cobcob Posts: 210
    P0420 is Catalyst system efficiency below threshold. I assume there maybe a problem with your catalytic converter. There was a recall for converters on these cars especially from 2000-2002 you will notice a drop in power and poor fuel economy when it fails.
  • My 2003 Chevy Impala LS engine misfires when accelerating or in cruise with drop in RPM, flashing check engine light, and lurch. No computer readouts except misfires all cylinders. Changed coil, harness, spark plugs, alternator, and catalytic converter twice - no help. Condition is intermittent.
  • twhaley1twhaley1 Posts: 1
    I was having the same intermittent trouble as you my car finally threw a code when I was a few miles from autozone, it turned out to be a crank shaft sensor was bad and the part was only $25 to replace but the labor is what cost you because it is buried behind the pulley. but since i got mine replaced i havent had any problems. :)
  • i had this problem one day while i was at work.....it turned out to be a corroded battery terminal that caused this.....we only found this out because we tried to jump it and nothing would work out for it so i went to take the battery out and the terminal ( metal disc the cables screw into) was so corroded inside they fell out.....i went and got a new battery and it worked like a charm.....my suggestion is check your terminals for your battery
  • i have a 2001 chevy impala and one day it just started cutting off on me every time i got to a stop light, i made it home but when i was about to leave 30 mins later the car wouldnt crank. i was told it was my fuel pump so i got my fuel pump changed and that didnt solve the problem, i then changed many other pieces that did not solve my problem. one day i finally got it running and a couple days later it just cut off on me and wouldnt start again i came to it the next day and it started right up with no problem. a couple days after this it would just cut off on me while i was riding or slowing down. i took it to gm and they ran the diagnostic test and told me it was my fuel pump that i just changed. the car is really starting to make me mad because i cannot figure out what the problem is....any suggestions?
  • +My 2002 started doing the same thing when the engine was hot. Felt like either a transmission bucking, or a fuel pump sputtering, or a coil not firing a plug. I could hardly get the car up to speed when accelerating from a stop, and there are no codes thrown. I still need to get it checked, but have seen similar descriptions on the web and in most cases, it's a Torque Converter Clutch (TCC).

    I'm going to have it checked next week.
  • thats exactly what my 2002 impala is doing with the not accelerating and acting like its not getting enuff gas we had it on the diagnostic machine twice the first time it said a miss fired in cylinder one after we changed the plugs and wires it still was acting crazy we put it on the diagnostic machine again it threw us the code of the egr sensor changed the egr sensor still doing it. I was ready to put a for sale sign in it but I just bought it thanks for your help if you get yours fixed before me let me know if that worked I will do the same for you.
  • i also found this bit of information so when u go to have it checked u can let the person know hope it helps both of us

    Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, the 2-3 Shift Solenoid and the Transmission Valve Body. A sticking valve in the Transmission Valve Body or a faulty solenoid can cause erratic shifting or the check engine light to come on. The Transmission Valve Body can become dirty and plugged. The cost to repair the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid is estimated at $40.09 for parts and $312.00 for labor or $331.50 for labor on vehicles with California emissions. The cost to remove and clean the Transmission Valve Body and repair the 2-3 Shift Solenoid is estimated to be $27.80 for parts and $487.50 for labor or $507.00 for labor on vehicles with California emissions. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable taxes
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    My 2004 Impala with 137,000 miles is getting the valve body repaired to fix the 1-2 shift solenoid and the code P1811 hi pressure fixed that causes the trans to shift hard thru all 4 gears. It also need the accumulator piston replaced which causes the vehicle to slam into gear from a stop sign. Total cost is estimated at $1300. The 4T65E transmission is in almost all GM large FWD cars from the late 1990s until now and they still will not take credit for poor engineering and cheap components. There will never be a recall on these because the new GM will blanme it on the old GM(bankrupt) and deny any resposability just like they did on the 2007-2008 impala rear suspension. I hate to put the money into a car but a car that doesn't run right along with $1300 cash will buy you another used car with a whole new set of problems.
  • Was having an accelerating problem about 2 years ago, it ended up being a burned out, plugged up catalytic converter and it was throwing the EGR sensor code.
  • try your MAF senser that was the prob with my 03 it costs about 610 at a dealer ship but it comes with a 12month 12000 mile waranty
  • MY HUSBAND HAS BEEN A MECHANIC FOR OVER 40 YRS CERTIFIED....fOR WHAT THAT'S WORTH WITH THIS IMPALA. 2002 3.4 IMPALA..

    PARTS WE REPLACED:

    IAC
    TPS,
    CRANK SENSOR 24X
    FUEL PUMP
    FUEL INJECTORS (6)
    PLUGS/WIRES.
    WE DID A WHOLE TOP END REMAN, THERE IS NO VACUUM LEAKS. THE ENGINE IS RUNNING GREAT AND SOUNDS GREAT ONLY WHEN YOU HOLD THE THROTTLE OPEN. WE ARE STILL GETTING RANDOM MISFIRES AND THAT'S THE ONLY CODE P300. pLEASE HELP IN OVER 3 YEARS I HAVE SPENT OVER 12,000 ON THIS PIECE OF... BUT I NEED THIS VEHICLE, I HAVE TWO HANDICAPPED BOYS THAT NEED TO GET TO THEIR DR.S APPS
  • Every time I go to start my 2001 Chevrolet Impala, it takes at least three tries before it cranks. its giving me what I remembered being a pf420 code below threshold. I replaced my o2 censor before the cat converter but no cigar. I also believe my alternator is falling behind because the brightness of all of the interior and ext lights fluctuates as well.

    I was told it was probably a crank sensor but wanted a second opinion before I go spending that money.
  • I assume you meant P0420 in your post. I did not see any mention of the crank sensor in this information: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420

    They mention a faulty cat or a faulty O2 sensor. The sensor after the cat is reading the same as the sensor before the cat.
  • sheldon7sheldon7 Posts: 2
    There seem to be several causes for this problem. I had the problem of randomly dying every few weeks while at idle or really low load driving. I think I fixed it with a new Idle air controller. In addition, this was also causing a bad (slow) shift into first gear for the first shift on a cold or coolish day and then the transmission would detect it and up the pressure. The idle was just too low sometimes and caused both problems. I had tried cleaning the MAF sensor, but while it may have helped it came back eventually.
  • Like many post here I'm having an issue with stalling. At first it was very seldom and now it seems to happen at least once whenever I'm driving.

    When I initially start the car there's no problem with it turning over. The problem occurs when I'm at a complete stop like at a stop light or when I'm almost stopped (like rolling up to a stop sign). When I attempt to restart the car it turns back over with no problem, usually on the first try and will normally run for the rest of my drive. I have noticed just recently there's a bit of a struggle to accelerate at times and the rpm gage doesn't seem to reflect the speed that I'm going. Where do I even begin??! In dire need of some conformed advice!
  • My impala was doing the same thing, random dying on me, wouldnt start all the time. I am a mechanic in the army i know a little about troubleshooting and following wires. This was the worst headache of my life, my car was throwing crankshaft codes on both sensors, both o2 sensors and egr fault as well. i changed the crankshaft sensors both of them the 7x and 24x i changed the o2 sensors and the camshaft sensor as well. still nothing has changed i have a mexican jumping bean when leaving from stop signs and when barely pressing on the gas. i was late for work one day when my car wouldnt start for me at all, i got out got under the hood and was looking around i found a stripped wire on my Igntion module. Fiddled with the wire had my b uddy start the car it started right up, went straight to NAPA Auto Parts(wont go anywhere else to find the right part right away) Got a new plug. Changed the plug out, and havent had a problem with starting since. Still have a jumping when i start out from stop signs and lights. Changed the O2 sensors out tonight, while plugging everything back in i pulled on the egr plug(drivers side of ICM five wire plug) car shut off. Plan on changing that plug ASAP.

    As to most of the posts on this thread it seems like you all have the same problems just different ways of explaining them. if you are still having problems in these areas i would start by checking all your connections to you ICM there are three plugs one for you egr one for your crankshaft sensor and the other one is for i forgot but its the two pin on the passenger side check all of the wire since they are so close to the engine any jumping of them whiole driving could have melted the coating away and shorted them or the plug itself went bad from years of heating up cooling off heating up cooling off chevy didnt think about cooling of this engine very well. I have changed my two small fans over i went with the most expense fans i could buy from napa the bill is a little high but in the long run its better to have a cooler engine with this chevy fail burning out all of the electronics. If you want to upgrade your fans to keep it cool just go into your local napa and ask them for your year radiator with the police package, its def worth it gotta say i love mine and wont trade it for anything. i hope this helps some of you that are so frustrated with these problems i will be posting if i find anything else out after i change my egr vavle plug to the ICM. if anyone has any other questions feel free to ask i dont mind experimenting on my car to help you all out.
  • i just recently bought a 2006 impala and didnt have an issues with it until a month or so ago. i had to have the fuel pump replaced and it was still having problems starting, so i got the mass airflow sensor changed as well.. it worked fine for about a week and now it stalls at random times and it wont start unless i try 5 or 6 times and sometimes i even have to pull the fuel pump fuse and start it then put it pack in to get it to start... i work at a GM dealership but the mechanics have absolutely no clue as to whats wrong because the car has no check engine lights and no hidden codes anywhere... i need help on figuring out whats wrong with it... some friends who know about cars say it could be a fuel pressure regulator but my mechanic says it would be more constant, and others say it could be a faulty fuel pump that got put in.... im still paying off the car so any advice on what to check would be greatly appreciated!
  • My 2003 Impala was stalling while at highway speeds, not starting when the engine was luke warm and occasionally the engine seemed to be out of sink with its various components (which I originally thought was the transmission since I slowly lost power and I had to up the RPM"S to keep it going). It was the Crankshaft Position Sensor aka the CKP. I had it replaced and I have had no problems since.

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