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Chevrolet Impala Starting/Stalling Problems



  • I've since traded the car and got a new Malibu. The SES light faulted a crankshaft position sensor. That was replaced and it solved the problem.
  • Hi,I bought a 2005 impala,3.4, a few months ago and I am sorry I did.I had the intermediate shaft replaced(common problem)felt like the steering wheel was coming apart at times.Then the service engine light came on..took it back to dealer and they couldnt find the problem.Had fuel injection cleaned.Then security alert came on message centre at times,while driving.Then my car just wouldnt start at times.Maybe a few hours later it would start..maybe not.Took it back to the dealer and they couldnt find a problem.see,the car would start messages either.
    I paid for a scan that turned up nothing.Someone suggested i remove the car starter.that was in it when i bought the car,(not factory).I had the dealer remove it.
    2 weeks later..all fine...THEN, light came back on,service engine light,and
    as i was in a parking lot waiting for it to decide to start ,someone suggested that i turn the key to acc and leave it on for 10 mins ,then start the car.IT WORKED.
    The next day I took it to the dealer ,put it on scan,they said wires in bcm came up.
    I am also having ignition switch replaced.Sure am seeing alot of this problem.Should be a recall for sure.Will update if it works..or not.
  • ja33ja33 Posts: 23
    At 36,000 miles my 2001 Olds Alero started having passlock starting problems. At first it was every other month and then after 2 years it happened with every other turn of the key. Since I am not the least bit mechanically inclined, I tried any and all procedures suggested on the internet except cutting wires, or installing a new switch. Eight months ago I decided to clean the grooves on my ignition key with a squirt of 3 in 1 oil. THE CAR STARTED RIGHT UP. I did it again for the next 3 days to gain little confidence in the procedure. THE ALERO CONTINUES TO START EVERY TIME

    Now once a month I oil the key, push it in and out of the switch slowly a couple times. When starting the car, do not jam the key in quickly and turn. Take your time. It seems to be a very sensitive switch, and needs a little TLC to prevent dirt build up. Try it. A little 3 in 1 oil squirt might save you a $500 repair bill. I told my GM dealer mechanic about this solution. He said "Yeah, it might work"

    Other Olds owners have tried this easy solution with favorable results. Try it and see if it works. I would appreciate hearing your results-good or bad. Don't use any special ignition key lubrication from an auto parts store. Just plain old 3 in one oil. Ja
  • I cannot turn the ignition to start the car. the steering wheel is not locked, either (it turns freely in either direction). Is this a transmission lockout module problem, an ignition module problem, or a steering lockout module problem?
  • Hi I have an 2003 impala, it started stalling a year back, at that point of time it used to be once in a couple of months, but of late ie, for the last 3 months, it happens weekly stalls while driving and doesn't start immediately, may be after 45 minutes it would, took to the mechanic ther was no code. It would give check engine light when ever I had this problem. Finally got the transmission , powersteering fluids changed and spark plug system changed costing $800, now after changing al these and spending so much , it is again giving the same problem , yesterday didn't start from the parking lot and today stalled while driving and again didn't start from the parking lot. I f any oone can help
  • I had a very similar problem. but in my case, no check engine light. I researched the problem and it looked like a high probability of the problem being the crankshaft sensor. Replaced that and problem went away.
  • mechanic actually reset the crankshaft sensor code.......
  • only occationally i have this problem... more often on cold days than warm. after the engine starts it whines for about 30-45 sec. at a high pitch almost like a train horn loud.. annoying. sometimes after the high pitched noise it will stay the same volume but lower a few octives.. the noise is for sure comming from the engine but its so few and far between that i can not pin point it. it still happens when the defrost is off so im guessing that it is not the compressor it was more frequent in near 0*F temperatures but it has been close to 40-50 and it is still doing it.. also my engine fan is running alot more than usual after im done driving. temp is normal on dash. im clueless any help would be great thanks kenny
  • ok the noise has been absent since i post that except for today it came on once i was able to get out and pop the hood before it cut out. but it was still short, it sounded like it was coming from the non belt side "the driver side" of the engine. i also figured out that the low pitched noise was not the same as the high pitched or not coming from the same area.. i could not figure it out but both noises were going on at the same time. still baffled
  • Does anyone know what emission code 420 controls, and how can it be repaired?
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    P0420 is Catalyst system efficiency below threshold. I assume there maybe a problem with your catalytic converter. There was a recall for converters on these cars especially from 2000-2002 you will notice a drop in power and poor fuel economy when it fails.
  • My 2003 Chevy Impala LS engine misfires when accelerating or in cruise with drop in RPM, flashing check engine light, and lurch. No computer readouts except misfires all cylinders. Changed coil, harness, spark plugs, alternator, and catalytic converter twice - no help. Condition is intermittent.
  • twhaley1twhaley1 Posts: 1
    I was having the same intermittent trouble as you my car finally threw a code when I was a few miles from autozone, it turned out to be a crank shaft sensor was bad and the part was only $25 to replace but the labor is what cost you because it is buried behind the pulley. but since i got mine replaced i havent had any problems. :)
  • i had this problem one day while i was at turned out to be a corroded battery terminal that caused this.....we only found this out because we tried to jump it and nothing would work out for it so i went to take the battery out and the terminal ( metal disc the cables screw into) was so corroded inside they fell out.....i went and got a new battery and it worked like a suggestion is check your terminals for your battery
  • i have a 2001 chevy impala and one day it just started cutting off on me every time i got to a stop light, i made it home but when i was about to leave 30 mins later the car wouldnt crank. i was told it was my fuel pump so i got my fuel pump changed and that didnt solve the problem, i then changed many other pieces that did not solve my problem. one day i finally got it running and a couple days later it just cut off on me and wouldnt start again i came to it the next day and it started right up with no problem. a couple days after this it would just cut off on me while i was riding or slowing down. i took it to gm and they ran the diagnostic test and told me it was my fuel pump that i just changed. the car is really starting to make me mad because i cannot figure out what the problem is....any suggestions?
  • +My 2002 started doing the same thing when the engine was hot. Felt like either a transmission bucking, or a fuel pump sputtering, or a coil not firing a plug. I could hardly get the car up to speed when accelerating from a stop, and there are no codes thrown. I still need to get it checked, but have seen similar descriptions on the web and in most cases, it's a Torque Converter Clutch (TCC).

    I'm going to have it checked next week.
  • thats exactly what my 2002 impala is doing with the not accelerating and acting like its not getting enuff gas we had it on the diagnostic machine twice the first time it said a miss fired in cylinder one after we changed the plugs and wires it still was acting crazy we put it on the diagnostic machine again it threw us the code of the egr sensor changed the egr sensor still doing it. I was ready to put a for sale sign in it but I just bought it thanks for your help if you get yours fixed before me let me know if that worked I will do the same for you.
  • i also found this bit of information so when u go to have it checked u can let the person know hope it helps both of us

    Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, the 2-3 Shift Solenoid and the Transmission Valve Body. A sticking valve in the Transmission Valve Body or a faulty solenoid can cause erratic shifting or the check engine light to come on. The Transmission Valve Body can become dirty and plugged. The cost to repair the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid is estimated at $40.09 for parts and $312.00 for labor or $331.50 for labor on vehicles with California emissions. The cost to remove and clean the Transmission Valve Body and repair the 2-3 Shift Solenoid is estimated to be $27.80 for parts and $487.50 for labor or $507.00 for labor on vehicles with California emissions. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable taxes
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    My 2004 Impala with 137,000 miles is getting the valve body repaired to fix the 1-2 shift solenoid and the code P1811 hi pressure fixed that causes the trans to shift hard thru all 4 gears. It also need the accumulator piston replaced which causes the vehicle to slam into gear from a stop sign. Total cost is estimated at $1300. The 4T65E transmission is in almost all GM large FWD cars from the late 1990s until now and they still will not take credit for poor engineering and cheap components. There will never be a recall on these because the new GM will blanme it on the old GM(bankrupt) and deny any resposability just like they did on the 2007-2008 impala rear suspension. I hate to put the money into a car but a car that doesn't run right along with $1300 cash will buy you another used car with a whole new set of problems.
  • Was having an accelerating problem about 2 years ago, it ended up being a burned out, plugged up catalytic converter and it was throwing the EGR sensor code.
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