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Toyota Highlander Power Windows

The drivers side window control will allow the rear windows to go down, but will not allow them to go back up. To raise the window I have to get out and let them up by accessing the rear window control. Any ideas on what my problem is?

Comments

  • Randomly, my 2005 Toyota Highlander when the air conditioner is on will switch to heat. Anyone else had this problem and anyone with a solution? :(
  • LoJackLoJack Posts: 2
    Although I'm no expert but I had this problem for a very longtime. My friend just fixed it. He took out the panel where the radio and air sit. Unscrewed the side and opened the box where the circuit is. There is a wire that broke. You could immediately see the broken piece. He replaced the wire by saughter it back together. It works perfect! If it wasnt for him I would of had to replace the whole circuit and it would of been around $400 for the part. Good luck! :)
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    It's amazing what a drop of solder can do! :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    There are two sensors, primarily, that might be at fault, the OAT sensor and the IAT sensor. If either of these should go open circuit the A/C would probably switch to HEAT.

    An open OAT, Outside Air Temperature sensor, would indicate to the system that it is EXTREMELY COLD outside. An open IAT, Interior Air Temperature sensor, would indicate that the cabin is TOO COLD.

    A third possiblity, while less likely, occurs if the engine coolant is "threatening" to go overtemp. To protect the engine the A/C will be disabled if the coolant temperature is rising toward the "danger" level, but not necessarily "there" yet.

    The OAT, generally, is mounted on the back side of the front bumper just in front of the A/C condensor/radiator stack. The IAT is behind that small vaned window above the driver's right knee. I have always relocated the OAT sensor so it isn't unduly influenced by the heat radiating from the condensor/radiator stack during cold weather.
  • I am just starting to experience the same power window issue. The driver control will lower the rear passenger windows, but will not raise them. Did you find a solution?
  • I took my car into the shop just 2 weeks ago for another problem and talked with them about the windows. My mechanic told me the main control would have to be replaced and that would cost at least a couple hundred dollars. Seems crazy the whole control would have to be replaced - but I am no mechanic.
  • Start a topic about power windows and it gets hi-jacked into heating/ventilation....please.......come on folks.
  • moonlight293moonlight293 ILPosts: 23
    I have the same vehicle with the same problem. From the driver's seat, I can raise and lower the front windows and the left rear window. The right rear window can be lowered but not raised. To raise it, I have to get out and walk around to that side of the vehicle and raise the window from that door. The service center told me the master control would have to be replaced. The part alone in northern IL is $400.
    Best price online I could find was $380. But I can't help but think that it must be just a loose wire and not a master control replacement. It's an option worth looking into at least.
  • toyoda2toyoda2 Posts: 2
    Since mentioning while sitting in our 2001 Toyota Highlander, that we might sell it and get a new model, it has started acting weird. The driver's side window powers down by itself when we are not in the suv. I have caught it a few times, other times I end up with a wet seat the next morning as it goes down during the night in the rain. When I saw it go down one day, I clicked the remote lock button on my keys and it stopped going down. Does anyone have a suggestion? Do I need a mechanic or a priest?
  • grahampetersgrahampeters AustraliaPosts: 1,662
    G'day

    You could try apologizing to it - it's obviously offended!

    More practically, it sounds like a short in the cable, probably where it flexes as the door is opened and closed. Try a visit to an auto electrician.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • Follow-up. Problem was not a loose wire but indeed needed a replacement master control unit. I waited until a power window master control for '05 Highlander appeared on eBay Motors and got one for a great price. Take a plastic chisel and pop out the old control switch from the door. Be careful not to damage the wires. Switch plates so the replacement matches the interior. Replace the new one in the door panel being careful to replace the wires exactly as you found them, and then pop it back into the door. Took all of 15 minutes.
  • tjyaptjyap Posts: 1
    We have the EXACT same problem. Please let me know if you find anything out about this. I don't know why our car would be possessed, we take really good care of it! :-)
  • toyoda2toyoda2 Posts: 2
    Problem solved. After months of trying to figure out the problem with my driver's side window going down on its own I discovered something else which led to the the problem being solved. Instead of using my remote to unlock my car I tried using my key. I couldn't open the door. I tried the passenger side door and it wouldn't work either. I went back to my mechanic and told him. This time they opened the door panel clear open and found that a little clip that goes from the drivers side door lock to the master control had come off. Once that was reconnected everything started working as it should. I hope this helps.
  • roadrunner70roadrunner70 Posts: 241
    I have a 2002 HL and both rear window will go down and not up. I always thought it was a window operator problem, but now, perhaps its the master control until. Other than taking the door panel off and inspecting, any advise? thanks, RR70
  • moonlight293moonlight293 ILPosts: 23
    I have a '05 Highlander and only had the right rear window not function. From the driver's seat, it would go down but not up. I would have to get out and go to that door and use that door switch to bring the window back up. I took a chance that it was the master control switch and replaced it. Replacing it is a LOT more easy to do than taking the door panel off. You can find a used one on ebay, craigslist or go srounge one up in a junkyard. Lots of messed up vehicles out there with perfectly good parts. In my case, once re- placed, everything worked perfectly. You don't even have to get one of the same color because you can switch plates.
  • I had a similiar issue yesterday that I thought I would share. We have a Highlander 2006 Hybrid. My wife txt'd me yesterday saying she cannot roll the window up (driver's side). My brother in law looked at it and said it looks like the master control switch needs to be replaced. Well long story short, I took the control out... fairly easy to take out considering.. pops out and you just unplug it like a component in a desktop computer. After looking at the issue... which was the driver side window not going up, I noticed that the button was not making contact with the internal rubber button at the bottom of the exterior button. You can easily see this with the switch out. I managed to get the button off and took a look and the plastic that stuck out appeard to have eroded away or melted at some point, or just broke off. Long story short, making sure there was nothing really wrong with the switch, I took a small screw driver and mashed the internal rubber button down (white looking pointy button) while plugged in and it worked (rolled right up). So I took a piece of plastic off a milk tab and some super glue and managed to rig a rise that would make contact with the internal button. All seems well now and appears to act as normal. $400+ for a replacement with $374 being the lowest I saw... I was figuring something out. Hope this helps.
  • I have a 2006 Highlander Hybrid and a Lexus RX300, both vehicles I have had to take care of this problem regarding the driver's side window not going down and raising. I have had great success with the previous thread approach. I put a piece of electrical tape on the tip of a flat head screw driver, then place it at the top side (north side) of the master window swtich. There is a clip that needs to be pushed back and then the master switch will pop out. The switch detaches at the electrical plug connector. Remove the screws and pull the outer shell apart. There is a rubber piece that covers the entire control board. This rubber piece has electrical contactors that are pushed against the contacts on the curcuit board when the window switches are pushed or pulled upon. At this point, replug the curcuit board. By pressing the rubber with your fingers against the curcuit board, instead of using the switches, you will be able to learn if the windows go up and down. If the windows work, you know there is an issue with the window button itself, or the plastic white pin(may have been slightly smashed - this is where you will cut a small piece of plastic - like from a plastic milk jug raising the height/length of the pin). If the window does not move up and down - your contactors may need to be cleaned with alcohol. Repeat the previous process after cleaning. If windows still do not go up and down, you can try one more way to learn if you have a bad master control switch. Keep the circuit board plugged in, remove the rubber contactor piece. On the circuit board, use a flat head screwdriver and contact any of the black contactors. You will notice the round contactors have two halves, cross both haves using your screwdriver. If making the open contact does not work, then you have a bad master control switch. Remember to try all the window contactors before giving up.
  • leealee777leealee777 Posts: 1
    edited January 2013
    I was having problems with my power window not going down. I took my highlander to the dealer to get my oil changed. Someone at the dealership rolled my window down. The rep at the dealership did not even tell me that my window was not working properly. I tried to roll the window up, it did not move. I tried to roll it down it did not move. I made a turn in the highlander and the window dropped. I called the dealership to report that I just left and I have this problem with my window. The rep on the phone stated that I only had an oil change done there but someone there rolled down my window and left the window down. I did not get a carwash that is customary when getting our oil changed. The dealer instructed me to return the vehicle to them, so that they could look at it. I returned at 5 pm and the dealership closes at 6pm. The rep came to me at 6pm to state that my regulator was bent. The rep said that the screws were in the bottom of the door but could not explain as to how the screws came off. This is a quality problem from the company that makes the regulators. I can see a recall coming because of this. They did not accept any of the blame for the window, but offered me to come back the next day to talk to the service manager. The total cost was $327.00. This is poor customer service from this dealership. I have spent over $75,000 in the last 2 years at this dealership. The least that I can say is that they will not get another penny from me.
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