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Chrysler Sebring Ignition Problem

aymeesueaymeesue Posts: 2
edited December 2013 in Chrysler
My Sebring has about 75,000 miles on it and for some reason, it has a hard time going into park so that I can remove the key from the ignition...When I shift it into park it feels like it locks in but I can not turn the key off fully..Therefore, the oil light stays on and if left like that it drains the battery.....Can someone please shed some light on the problem??? Thanks!!!!

Comments

  • sherondasheronda Posts: 1
    The key will not turn in my ingnition in my Crysler. We tried adjusting the steering wheel and moving it side to side but nothing will work. Can someone give me suggestions or probable causes?
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    The only times I've seen that happen is when the ignition was turned off with the steering wheel cocked at an extreme angle and you had to turn it back slightly the other way to relieve the pressure before you could turn the key.

    However, you indicated that you already tried that.
  • vlaovlao Posts: 1
    Sheronda - We've had the problem you describe frequently with our 2001 Sebring. It was very frustrating until someone advised us that the key switch is very sensitive to dust (we live in the desert southwest, so there is an abundance of that). The advice is to tap the key with something hard (a screw driver handle, etc.) The "key" part of the instruction is to "tap", not hammer, or you might break the key off. This has worked for us every time. I understand you can also use a can of compressed air to blast into the key opening, but it's easier to keep a screw driver in the glove box than a can of compressed air. Good luck.
  • Hello had this happen today on my wifes car. I used a screwdriver as was discussed in another post. The trick I found that was the easiest is as you are tapping on the the key turn the key towards the start position with gentle pressure. Worked like a charm! :)
  • tpettpet Posts: 3
    I am supposed to sell my sister's car (1998 Sebring Convertable), but it will not start. There is no gas getting to the spark plugs and no spark either. I tried bypassing the shut off relay, but that made no difference. I removed the crankshaft sensor and when I attach it to my multimeter and pass a piece of steel back and forth across it, there is a change in resistance, so I think this part is good. The car was working before she parked it for the winter and then this happened. I have taken off the air intake to get to the back plugs and I had to remove a whole bunch of oil from the spark plug cylinders before I removed the plugs - because I wanted to clean the ends of the spark plugs. When her fiance removed the front plugs (I was not there) he did not remove the oil from the plug cylinders, therefore whatever was there - if any oil at all (which I am sure there was some) - went into the cylinders. I am sure that as a result of this happening, that it has nothing to do with it not starting. All fuses are good - I checked them with the ignition on - both inside the car (on the side of the dash) and under the hood (on the driver's side). I disconnected the gas line via a quick disconnect and cranked the engine and gas did come spewing out - so I am sure the fuel pump is working. I have read many, many posts and found that people had similar problems, but I could not find any solutions to this problem. I even took the fuse panel (under the hood in between two steel boxes) apart to make sure there were no corroded wires underneath. I cannot find any burnt wires anywhere - even by the egr valve (I did see that in a posting). I am at my wits end and have no idea of what to do. I cannot afford to pay for parts that will not fix the problem or pay a garage to fix the problem. I do know that the Service Engine light was always on - it had been that way since my sister bought the car and after bringing it back to the place where she bought it - more than once - they could not find out why the light was always on. Someone please help me - I apologize if there is a solution for this in all these threads, but I looked for hours and could not find anything. Even googling came up empty handed. There has to be a simple solution for this, I just don't know what it is. I also took the plug off the distributor and cleaned the connections as much as I could (I did see that in here somewhere) and plugged it in, removed it and repeated this a few times to make sure a good connection was being made. If anyone can help me, I would really appreciate it. My sister is in dire needs of cash - that is why she is selling this car. I has a 2.5 liter engine in it and it is a Canadian car (I live in Canada).
  • vampire87vampire87 Posts: 10
    hey i have the exact same car. i hope you read this it might help. i have read many forums to trying to figure this out. yesturday i started the car for the first time.
    our model of cars have a hard time with the ignition keys, somtimes they just stop recognizing the key so just have a new one programed to it, also ask a mechanic about recall id# 28912.
    also check your pump selenoid and your high and low air pressure.
    goodluck, and let me know how it goes thedgenerate@hotmail.com my name is dan
  • khappykhappy Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan that had the same problem. The only thing that worked for us was hitting the end of the key quite hard with a shoe (which I kept in the van all the time). It seemed to be worse on cold days too. After about a year of hitting it, it started not working anymore, and finally failed. We ended up calling a locksmith who came to the house and took it apart, greased up the individual....well I can't think of the name, but they are little things that fall into the key's grooves when you put the key in, anyway, we haven't had a problem since. He said that those "things" were getting stuck and when you hit the key with a shoe, you basically vibrate those down to where they should be, "shake them loose". After he lubricated them and loosened them up, they have worked fine. He told us if we could have driven the van to him, he would have done it for 25.00, but it was a little more than that since he came to us. I think only 40 or so. Very cheap way to fix the problem. I would suggest trying a locksmith (instead of a dealer) before you get stuck like we did. I hope this helps!
  • tpettpet Posts: 3
    Hello Sheronda:

    Thank you for your suggestion. I am not sure if we have the same problem. I can insert my key and turn it to the start position and have the engine cranking over, but it won't start because of no gas or spark at the plugs. I did try hitting the key when it was in the ignition fairly hard with the palm of my hand and kept inward force on the key when trying to start the car, but still no success with the car actually starting. Please let me know if you were able to turn your key to the start position without hitting it or if you had to hit your key to drop the tumblers (I think that is what they are called) into place on your key so that you could then turn your key in the ignition to start your van.
  • khappykhappy Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I did have to hit my key in order to turn it. Thanks for the name of those things!! :) Tumblers, I will have to remember that. It does sound like we had a different problem. Sorry about that. I hope you can figure out what the problem is.
  • tpettpet Posts: 3
    No problem at all. I still appreciate the fact that you took the time to reply, thinking it might help. I hope I can figure it out as well. Thanks again.
  • I have a 2006 chrysler sebring convertable, and the air compressor locked up. i had the compressor placed,new serpentine belt,thermostadt,ignition switch changed, and a oil change. now car wont cut off at all, unless go under hood and remove ignition fuse...pls help...
  • Here is a tricky one for you guys. I have an 01 Sebring Limited Convertible, I went out to start it one night and nothing happened. All that happens is the mileage and the P-R-N-D shows up on the instrument panel, and the temp shows up but no accessories turn on or any of the warning lights come on. The battery is fully charged. I also turned the headlights on and tried to start it and the lights didnt dim. What is the cause of this problem? I need to know because I really dont want to take it to a shop if it is something I can fix. Please help.... Thanks
  • I have the same problem with my 2006 Sebring, Touring. I see there are no replys to your post. Could you tell if you got it fixed yet. I am thinking may e the relay or 40 amp fuse.
  • My 2006 Chrysler Sebring will not start. The warning lights, radio and wipers will NOT work,...the lights work, remote entry does, the windows work. When I turn the key the P R N D 2 1 and the oil indicator lights up and the ding ding door is open works, Ok, the car will not jump off, I replaced the radio fuse, the 10 amp ignition fuse, had the battery tested. I cant seem to find the starter to tap on it even with a diagram, the one Autozone gave me looks nothing like my car. When I turn the key you can hear a faint tick from the fuse compartment under the hood. I don't really think its the relay. I hate newer cars. :mad: So if anyone has a suggestion or can pinpoint the starter for me, I have even crawled under the car, I think I found it, but not to sure, So OMG IM gonna blow a fuse and need to be replaced! :sick: :sick: I knew to never buy a Chrysler, but it sooo nice. :sick:
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 978
    krazyhicchic, try asking in our answers section too -- some of our members hang out there to answer quick questions, and might be able to point you in the direction of your starter:

    http://answers.edmunds.com

    After you post your question, you can check for responses by clicking the "my answers profile" link near the top of the page.

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • Well I had the same problem with my 2001 Chrysler. Just letting you know the starters in these cars are covered with a skid plate on the bottom of the engine and you have to take a motor mount off. lol... But it sounds like the same problem I had with mine and it needed a new starter. I do alot of work with cars but honestly you may have to take it to the dealer to get it replaced because I wasnt able to do it.

    Just FYI I lost all dash lights and the mileage counter didnt come up.
  • Thanks so much, I had read that the starter was under there I just really was hoping it was somewhere else and didn't want to start tearing into it, I hate new cars! I bout blew a fuse just taking the battery out. What a stupid concept, in the wheel well! I have to get me some jack stands now, need em anyway, just don't trust the floor jack that much. I thank you again. I hope this is my problem, if not, gasoline and a rag is in order. :shades:
  • Your welcome.
  • Well now, I didn't have a skid plate to remove but it was a [non-permissible content removed] getting the starter off. took it to the auto parts place had it tested, nothing wrong with it. So then put it back on, and guess what? Apparently, I missed the FUSE that was blown, I checked them all but I couldn't tell where this one was blown, how I found out, a tester. A fuse and flipping fuse! :mad: Oh well over it now.
  • I have a 1997 Chrysler Sebring convertible, replaced the battery yesterday, went through all the wires, found one melted and a loose one on the starter. Car worked with only a little hesitation after new battery was installed, this morning brought the car up for gas, brought it home, back to not starting. Waited about 15 minutes and tried again, it started with a slightly longer hesitation, but it started without a jump. I was told before replacing the battery, that the started was drawing more power than it requires, Please any help would be wonderful. Thank you in advance.
  • 1996 Sebring LXi Sedan bought two months ago for $2500 with 103k: I love this car, but....(1) hard to get into gear when starting, either reverse or drive - have to jiggle it around and eventually it goes (so far!) (2) how what where? I badly cracked the front spoiler on this used car & in trying to tape it back together found that it was already being held in place by black plastic ties! To whom should I go for fixing this? (3) had to have several ignition keys made because they would stop working. (4) BIG PROB now - the car key turn makes the starting noise, but the car does not start, so I know it isn't the battery. Don't even know what kind of place I should have it towed to? Last, but not necessarily least - I don't know how much coolant it takes - there is no guide on the car and no indicator where the fill line is. If you have any help ideas for me, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
  • Can someone help, I am new to a forum... Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2010 - Melb, Aust. I am using the remote key to open vehicle, I can hear the doors unlocking, but the driver side door isn't budging. I can open passenger side door, use everything in vehicle. drive vehicle (haven't driven out of street). but cannot open door. Any hints, clues as it is 1 month out of warranty!!

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