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GMC Yukon Start Stall Idle Problems

124

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  • jb04jb04 Posts: 4
    can someone help me with this i started my 2003 Denali up early one morning to take my kids to school, the truck iddled as mif someone was sitting there slowly pushing down on the gas paddle. I drove it in high iddle to school but brought it straight back home because it wasn't dying down not even when i put on breaks. Can someone please help me with this one before the dealership rip me off
  • This sounds like a potentially dangerous situation. You need to determine if it is electrical or mechanical. By this I mean is it a sensor, like your TPS. Or is something hung up like your throttle cable. In either case, an engine that "runs away" can be very dangerous. I would ask around and take it to someone you can trust. Do you have a "check engine light" on? If so that would be helpful for your mechanic to make a quick diagnosis. You can purchase a diagnostic tool yourself to read the codes.
  • I am having an issue with my 05 Denali. I went out to start it 4 days ago and got nothing, the door locks wouldn't even work. Took the battery and alternator in to get tested and both tested great. Put both back in and it started right up. Now I have the same issue again, any suggestions as to what the problem could be?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,130
    I am not sure what could be causing your concern. Have you brought this to the attention of your local dealer? I would recommend contacting them to a diagnosis. Please feel free to keep us posted. Thank you.

    Tricia, GM Customer Service.
  • 2004 Yukon denali put a full tank of gas in it and then pulled it up to the store to run in came out and it was dead. Turned the key and nothing. It didn¡¦t even try to start all the lights worked, locks, and wipers. It kept blowing the pcm fuse. Finally took it in they told us it was a bad fuel pump. Decided to put the pump in ourselves drove it maybe 10 miles the car started cutting out and wouldn¡¦t go over 1200 rpms. It kept acting like it wanted to die. Got it home and decided to put it back in the shop. The shop looked at it told us it was the fuel pump. So they replaced the pump again. Ran fine for about 10 miles and once again having the same problem with it. It has no guts and doesn¡¦t want to go. The pump is pushing 20 to 25psi the check engine light finally came on and that¡¦s what its reading is the fuel pump. They checked the ho2 sensors for restricted catalytic converter and they found everything to be ok. They ran wires to see if maybe there was a short somewhere and they couldn¡¦t find anything. Its been 3 weeks and I really need my car back. Any help pleaseƒº
  • 2010 GMC YUKON SLT, 16,000 miles. Randomly on starting the RPM's will go to 4000 and the only way to disengage is turn off the ignition. Starting again, everything is normal. I have taken to my dealer and the shop foreman ran all the diagnostic tests. No results.
    He is going to canvas other Yukon dealer shop foremen for simailar problem and what they did about it. Dealer is one of the largest in the DFW area.
    I am asking this Forum for your imput. Any suggestions will be appreciated and shared with the dealership foreman.
  • We had the same type of problem with our 2003 Yukon and then eventually the speedometer stopped working. Come to find out there was a recall on the instrument cluster panel. So we put it in the shop and had it replaced free. Well it worked fine for a few months but then we started having the same problem again and now our RPM, speedometer and gas gauge have all stopped working but since I have more than 80,000 miles on my Yukon now they will not replace the faulty instrument cluster again. So if your Yukon is under this recall and you choose to replace it just be prepared to replace it again. Evidently even the replacement instrument clusters are faulty. Once your vehicle has 80,00 miles on it you are on your own. Best of Luck to You. Next vehicle I am switching to Ford or Dodge. I haven't had any problems with these make of vehicles.
  • Gonzali,

    If we could look further into this for you, we're available to do that. Please send us an email with more information about the situation as well as the last 8 digits of your VIN.

    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • I own a 2003 Denali and have had the same electrical problems as others have stated. It has been in the shop multiple times due to the fact that after leaving it off for a few hours, I would go to start it and it would have a dead battery. I have had a new altenator, 2 new batteries, new starter, been to multiple "experts", all to no avail (not to mention, i've had to pay for all of this, in my mind, "needless work", since the problem continues. Most recently, my enire instrument panel has died as well. As I type, the truck is in the shop getting the instrument panel repaired/replaced and also checking on the battery drain problem as well. It is so frustrating and I wish I would of gotten rid of this truck a long time ago. It's a shame because I really do like the truck, just not the electrical problems. I hope someone who has had this problem can help. (I read about the negative battery cable and i'm going to try that next)
  • I assume that the reason they keep telling you that its a bad fuel pump is due to lack of fuel pressure at the engine.

    If you are sure it is a fuel delivery problem there are a few things to look at. Mind you, 20-25psi is 'okay' for idling, but no way you are going to get going at that pressure. As an FYI, the minimum freeflow fuel pressure for the fuel pump is 85 psi. The maximum fuel pressure on this unit is 100psi. This is based on Autozones OEM replacement (with new wiring harness) for a 2003 Yukon (and Denali) with the 5.3L (or 6.0L) motor. If you would like to do some research on it, it is an Airtex Master/Fuel Pump E3508M

    1. Fuel filter. Seems obvious, but you'd be surprised how much damage a little $10 filter can cause when it stops fuel flow, this SHOULD have been replaced with the fuel pump and should be regularly changed every year.
    2. Fuel pressure regulator. Usually vaccuum controlled, if there is a rip in the airline the fuel pressure will not increase to the engine block when throttle is applied.

    Those are the cheap ones.
    3. Wrong Fuel Pump or bad wiring. There shouldn't be a wrong fuel pump, with 2 shops, but there is a problem with the OEM wiring harness that causes damage to the connector and burn marks. The fuel pump i purchased for my denali about 6 months ago came with a new wiring harness which I had to retrofit onto my old wiring harness and cut some of the bad, brittle wiring off. The bad wiring could be causing resistance on the power to the pump, causing it to spin much slower than it should and not generating the pressure the vehicle needs.
    4. PCM/ECU .... or electronic throttle system. If those are bad, you should be pulling a code on your computer, but if the computer is bad, then it may not send a code.

    I wish you luck in your endeavors
  • I have the same problem. I have an 06 and I have changed four batteries since new to no avail.
  • This sounds interesting. This issue could be a numerous of items that might cause the "no power" at all coming from the source (battery). What I would do first is to check the connectivity between the battery cable (positive) and going to the other end, i.e. starter, computer, etc.. then check your negative cable and see if that is secured on the battery terminal and grounded on a frame or good ground location. To make the troubleshooting a little easier for you, you might want to get a code reader (you plug this into the female plug under the steering column dash area) and if there is an issue with the electrical system in your vehicle, then a code will pop up on the screen, and then look up that code on line and it should indicate to you what and or where the issue is. I hope this helps, but if not drive it in to your GM dealer and let them look at it and let them indicate to you what the issue is at hand.
  • on that iac valve, there are specs of how much that inter sensor should be sticking out while you re-install it back into place. This controls the idle on my 01 GMC Yukon. I suggest you go down to your auto parts store and get yourself a Clinton Service Manual for your yr GMC and this service manual will have pictures of the IAC and the settings it must be at in order for the proper idle functionality. It should be idling between 600-800 in Park or neutral?
    I hope this helps you?
  • Have you been working with a dealership or Customer Assistance already towards getting this resolved?
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • I think after you replace the fuel pump you need to reset or erase the code on the computer or else it will continue to repeat the same problem?
  • mister40mister40 Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    I have a 2004 GMC Yukon and it won't start. I've change the fuel pump twice, the battery three times, had a major tune up done where it was found that it was flooded. After the tune up still didn't start. My mechanic pulled all the spark plugs out, turned the engine until all the asses gas was out of the chambers, put them back in, still won't start. help me someone i need my vehical.
  • case7997case7997 Posts: 1
    2000 GMC Yukon XL 2500 6.0 Feel like we have tried everything! It was idling rough at first then twice it died at an intersection, having to get it towed home. We have replaced maf sensor, throttle positioning sensor, fuel pressure regulator. We can hear the fuel pumps humm, though this can still be the issue???? We have spent so much money and time on this vehicle and any advice would be appreciated! Right now the truck wont even crank over...
  • rcaylorrcaylor Posts: 3
    A relay is stuck in the energized position somewhere - air conditioning is where I would try first. This leaves the compressor clutch engaged, even while the truck is off and drains the battery.
  • rcaylorrcaylor Posts: 3
    These vehicles have a one-piece fuel pump/sending unit which can be taken apart. When the fuel gets below the level of the fuel pump(below 1/4 tank), there is a tiny plastic hose in the fuel pump unit that fills the unit up so the pump doesn't suck air. The hose, or brass strainer at the end of the hose, can come apart and keep it from filling the unit. The car may stall, stumble on acceleration, and even backfire. It can drive you crazy. Acts like a timing/ignition problem or a vacuum leak at the intake manifold, or even water in the fuel. When checking fuel pressure at idle, the pressure will be just right, but when cornering, stopping, or accelerating from a stand still, the fuel in the tank will slosh away from the pump, and the level in the pump housing drops, causing the pump to suck air. The only way to even check this is to drop the fuel tank and take the sending unit apart. If the brass strainer unit comes out of the plastic housing, get a new unit. On the old GM trucks, the fuel pump had a short rubber hose on it that would eventually split. Under a load, the fuel would pump right back into the tank instead of going to the injectors. The solution is a 25 cent piece of fuel hose placed between the pump and the unit housing. To see it in action, you'd have to remove the fuel pump and energize it in a 5 gallon bucket of fuel (very dangerous). Best of luck.
  • rcaylorrcaylor Posts: 3
    Have the crankshaft position sensor checked, and if the vehicle has a distributor, there is a camshaft position sensor in the distributor that checks a reference signal for the crank to ensure proper firing order.
  • I have an 01 GMC Yukon that had starting problems... if you wait 10 minutes intervals and try again it stats like nothing happened (one time it took 40 minutes). I have tried "all the tricks" and so far since I replaced the ignition switch electronics ($200 part and 20minutes to install myself) I have not had the problem. I will get the p/n and post it when I get home.
  • 2002 Yukon, 141,000 miles, well maintained. Is recently experiencing an intermittent problem (about 50% of the time). Symptoms: turn off ignition and stereo speakers give an audible pop. The power to windows and stereo is immediately cut off when this happens – the vehicle is supposed to continue supplying power for a short period of time or until the door opens. The stereo also loses power to the point that the clock and station settings are wiped out. Lastly, the vehicle is not starting properly. On turning the ignition, the engine will turn over, but not run. Holding the ignition for several seconds will not start the engine, however cycling the ignition several times (usually 3rd or 4th) will start the vehicle. Again, the problem is recent and intermittent.
  • hls94137hls94137 Posts: 1
    I originally posted this in the wrong place I think :blush:
    We were driving down the interstate last night and the truck seemed to jerk a little like it was out of gas (had over a half a tank) then died. pulled over to the side of the road tried to start it a couple times with no luck. Put the Hazards on and in less than 25 minutes the battery was completely dead. We had it towed to the town we were going.......woke up this morning jump started the truck, it started, then died. HELP! Heres to hoping this is an easy fix.....need to get home. :cry:
    Thanks Heather/Mark
  • leah9leah9 Posts: 1
    my yukon is the same year as your i was having the same thing with my i took it to bill hood gmc it turn out to be a bad wire it cost about 250
  • ddroweddrowe Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Yukon XL. When driving it will loose power and shot off. We recently had the AC system repaired - compressorm, dryer, etc.

    This problem started when we got it back from the AC repair.

    We have changed the Fuel Filter but that has had no benefit. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • levistonleviston Posts: 2
    Newbie here:

    I have an 04 Denali xl. starter cranks but fails to start engine, turn key off then on and it starts with no problem. Any ideas?
  • levistonleviston Posts: 2
    04 Denali xl traction control turns on intermittently when there's no loss of traction. I heard this was a problem with some sensor. Anyone have any ideas on a fix. It is quite annoying when car suddenly slows down.
  • law773law773 Posts: 1
    What wire did you replace? My Yukon is doing the same thing.
  • I have a Very Early 2000 Yukon XL with 111,000 miles that i have owned since it was new, I love the vehicle But is has been a total electrical Nightmare. Now we are having problems starting the car, seems to turn over quick enough but not getting spark or fuel.... Let it sit a while and it will fire right up. Having a repeat of an issue from about 5 years ago with a slow drain on the battery that was traced down to a "bad Radio' GM Dealer wanted 475$ to install a new radio, so I drove it for a year with the radio unplugged. Wife got tired of that so I finally paid up for a new factory radio, (Have rear seat radio controls so no installer would touch the truck to put in an after market radio). Leave it sit a day or two and the battery is drained. Shop said two year old delco battery was bad so had that replaced, two days later same thing, doesn't want to start and battery almost completely drained even after a 100 mile drive....

    So I jump to the obvious conclusion that it must be the alternator, Shop tested and says the alternator is fine. Fuel Filter was changed 6 months ago. Wires and Plugs 6 months ago.
    This truck has been one electrical gremlin after another, Maybe this is not electrical but I have had all 4 power window units fail, 3 power window switches failed, Radio Failed , Two Engine Control Modules, door locks on three of the front doors and the rear split doors, wiper motor failed, wiper fluid pump failed, auto 4wd failed, Power Seat Switches have failed, seat heater failed, Power Mirror failed, Power Mirror Control Switch on Drivers door failed, Auto Level control unit failed, Level control pump failed, moon roof motor failed, Home Link System Failed, Onstar went "Obsolete" after a few years, Headlight Wiring Harnesses wore through and killed all the lights, Both Rear Taillights have crumbled and fallen out while driving
    Never again will I buy a vehicle in its first year of production let alone in the first moth as I did this one.
  • I also bought a brand new 2000 Yukon with the SLT package and not the XL. It sounds like the main computer that drives all of those things are out of wrack. Because if your battery is dead you need to reset all of those sensors etc. In regards to the factory radio all I did was add (2) 700 Watts amps to it and updated my speakers with Pol Audio and it cranks! However, you can add another radio below the original radio but the factory radio everything runs through it so probably not a good idea to switch it out. You need to get yourself a code reader and plug it into the reader and see the codes that is associated with the issues you are having. Once you start knocking out each code one by one you should have a nice vehicle again. I have 116k on mine and did a 3" body lift to fit my 35 x 12.50 x 16.5 wheels!
    I also have modified the muffler and have separated 2.5" stainless steel pipes from the cat back going into a x-cross magnaflow muffler to over the axle and that's it. Didn't have enough money to bring the tail pipes out near the bumpers but that's ok. I don't have any issues like yours though?

    So get a OBD-II code reader and start from there and get a GM code book to explain what the codes mean and get them repaired or replaced.

    I hope this helps?
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