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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Fuel System



  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    edited June 2010
    I don't drive my Canyon 4x4 too much in the summer, it's primarily a winter use vehicle. However, a couple of weeks ago, I needed to get a few bags of fertilizer and some mulch for the gardens, so out came the truck. A couple of miles down the road, on goes the "fuel cap" warning message on the dash. The truck's gas cap hadn't been touched in quite a while, but when I get to the garden center, I check it's tight. I get the light again, while on the way home.

    I install a new cap, as it's not too expensive, and thoroughly clean the inside of the filler neck. To test things out, I drive the truck to work the next day, message re-appears on the dash. Get home from work, throw the scan tool on, get "major air leak in vent line" error code, as well as "intermittant lean mis-fire" error code.

    I clean the MAF and throttle body, again clean the filler neck of the tank, and clear the codes. Test drive truck, "gas cap" error message again. Take truck to dealer, they replace the tank vent solenoid. Yes, I have a few months of my GMPP warranty left, so they "cover" the bill, but it's $100 deductable. Yeah, I know that dealer labor isn't cheap, but I know the part, in reality, is about $25-30, and I gave them the error code from the computer, so that minimized their diagnostic time. I also heard that this isn't all that rare of a problem. But, it still cost me $100 out of pocket.

    Yes, I know the truck is 5.5 years old, but it has under 30,000 miles on it...SHEESH! I sure hope that this isn't the beginning of a trend.....
  • 2004 colorado I5 motor my gas gauge stopped working day after fill up. Gauge says empty low fuel message on.removed fuel pump from tank checked sending unit with ohm meter resistance gets higher when i raise fuel lever to simulate full tank. Seems to work the way its suppose to also checked voltage 4.29 at plug Anyone know what else i should check. possible BCM needs reset.
  • bc22bc22 Posts: 2
    where can i find the canister vent solenoide,it takes forever to fill it up..mechanic said i need to bring it in..i have the part but can't find it..
  • dotzertdotzert Posts: 1
    I was having the same problem. We have an 04.I took the bed off.It was located on the frame in front of the spare tire.We took the canister off & hooked it up to a 12 volt charger to see if it was opening &closing.Staying closed all the time.There's a spring on the inside.We took it out & put it on the other side to hold the vent open all the time.Fixed the problem & didn't cost a penny.Hope this helps.
  • bc22bc22 Posts: 2
    i have a 2005 colorado 4wd i-5 engine,took thru a car wash and now it shifts hard and won't shift into 4th gear,even tried shifting manually but the problem is still there...any ideas?????
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055
    Hello Bc22,
    Have you had anyone look at the vehicle since the concern started? Did you have any shifting concerns before going to the car wash? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • The check engine light and fuel cap light was always on in my 2004 Chevy Colorado. I was tired of spending the money on gas caps, and no one could figure out the problem in Michigan.

    I recently moved to Texas where they have the emissions test. The truck failed due to a leak in the ***** evaporative emission control system*****

    The repair facility had to smoke the system to find the leak. They replaced the evap cannister ($200 for part??) and everything is working fine at the moment, no fuel cap or check engine light.

    now just set back and wait for the next repair
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    Very interesting... I just acquired a 2004 Colorado with the I-5 motor. It too is throwing the "Check fuel cap" code. Sometimes it will throw on the check engine light, and then switch over to the "check fuel cap" code. It usually only happens if I let the truck idle for a few minutes before driving off.

    It will go away if I shut the truck off and then restart it. But now I am curious as to what this is? It sounds like it really isnt the fuel cap, but something else. It hasnt affected drive-ability yet, but I don't really want it too either. I also don't have a ton of money to throw at it. So if I can do something on my own without spending tons of money on parts that is what I am looking for.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    edited April 2011
    "big-al", read post #22......
  • I purchased an '04 Colorado last August. It has overflowed at the pump every time I've not manually shut off. Anyhow, I found this discussion, decided to call Chevrolet and found out that there is an extended coverage on the gas cap- even to secondary owners with expired warranties. Call Chevy at 1-800-630-2438. They will get you in to your local dealership for a look. Hope this helps some of you. :)
  • citrius91citrius91 Posts: 2
    j/w if that fixed your problems? thanks jason
  • citrius91citrius91 Posts: 2
    05 chevy colorado
    thanks jason
  • akexakex Posts: 2
    I've had this vehicle for a year now. Its got about 70K on it and it hasnt been beaten. The problem im having is that I'm not getting the MPG's that its suppose to do, not even close its supposed to do 16 MPG for city driving and 21 MPG for hwy driving. I'm averaging in the summer around 13 MPG and less in the winter. All the things that I could do to help my fuel consumtion I did. Like add a new air filter, did a purge, flushed my oil a couple of times. I dont have big tires, I always try to keep my engine from reving over 2000 RPM. Is this normal? If not what is the solution? Thanks, Alex
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055
    The best fuel economy possible is the direct result of proper maintenance and good driving habits. Listed below are GM's recommendations to achieve the best mileage possible. The first group are things to consider for your vehicle, while the second are tips relating to your driving habits.

    One of the major contributors to poor fuel economy are under inflated tires. Tires low with pressure create drag that the vehicle’s powertrain must overcome, wasting dollars in fuel. Always keep your tires inflated to the proper pressure as shown on the vehicle placard. This not only serves to increase gas mileage but cuts down on tire wear, further decreasing your costs per mile.

    A vehicle that has a dirty air filter can’t efficiently draw air into the engine. This restriction forces the engine to expend energy to "breathe" wasting fuel in the process. Change recommendations are found in your vehicle Owner’s Manual.

    Always use the proper viscosity oil in your engine. Oil that has a higher than required viscosity will create more drag on the internal components of the engine causing more work for it, especially when cold. Each Owner’s Manual contains information on the proper type of oil for your vehicle. Look for the "starburst" symbol on the front of the bottle, and the SM rating on the API circle on the back label. If you are in doubt, stop by your dealer for an oil change, and any other services required. Most current GM vehicles are equipped with oil life monitors to further assist on the "when" to change your oil. (Aveo/Wave/Optra/Epica currently do not have oil life monitors).

    Note: GM Vehicles DO NOT require additional engine oil additives. Some additives may cause harmful effects to the internal seals and additionally void the terms of your vehicles New Car Warranty.
    Purchasing higher than required octane fuel is a waste of money. Using higher octane fuels in a vehicle that only required regular unleaded fuel will neither increase performance nor improve gas mileage. In all cases refer to your owner’s manual and ONLY use the octane rated fuel recommended for your vehicle.

    Even though current GM vehicles have 100,000 mi (160,000 km) service intervals for spark plugs if your vehicle is at that point in its life, have the spark plugs changed to assure proper running and continued efficient, trouble free operation.

    Avoid quick/full throttle acceleration from a standstill in town and high cruising speeds on the interstates. While the optimum MPG for highway cruising speed varies from vehicle to vehicle, faster is almost always worse. If your vehicle is equipped with a Driver Information Center that displays Instant Fuel Economy, select that readout and vary your cruising speed while on the highway. The display will change continuously with uphill and downhill sections but you should quickly be able to identify on level ground the speed range that your vehicle does the best in. Avoid leaving unnecessary items in your trunk. It takes power to move increased weight and that means more gasoline consumption and reduced performance. While the change may be slight, multiplied by thousands of miles, it all adds up. Your vehicle uses much more fuel when the engine is cold. This is especially true in the winter months when the engine will take the longest to warm up. Combine errands or trips so that the vehicle only needs to warm up once to encompass many different stops.

    If you still believe you have a concern please visit a dealer. They will be able to look into the situation.
    GM Customer Service
  • akexakex Posts: 2
    Hi Christina,

    Thanks for the reply, I appreciate your time. Everything mentioned above has been addressed and I've also brought it to the dealership and I keep getting the same response I just received from you. Has there been any issues with the fuel injectors, could they be sending too much gasoline then necessary? I'm running out of ideas... Does anyone else have any issues with their Canyon?
  • Hi All,

    I have a 2005 Colorado with 68K miles, the check engine light recently came on, it shows two codes, both P0442. Mine is an I5 engine 4WD, extended cab. I understand this indicates a leak in the evap ssytem, which the sensor checks by trying to hold vacuum. I replace the fuel cap to no avail. Does any one know of a way to defeat this sytem to make the Check engine light go off, like plug the line between the sensor and the tank?

    I bought this truck new, it has been a troublesome vehicle, tire wear that seems to unfixable, water leaks, multiple elctrical problems. I should get 150k miles or 10 years with zero problems, very disappointed in this truck.
  • Good morning,

    I understand your frustration, and can appreciate the fact that you are seeking to resolve these concerns on your own. If we could look and see if there are any open recalls or special coverages on your vehicle, we would be happy to do so if you were to email us the last 8 digits of your VIN.

    I realize that working with a dealership is not an option at times, whether due to technical expertise or other factors. If you do decide to work with a dealership in the future, though, I just wanted to let you know that we would like to make sure that things go well. Just let us know through an email (preferably, if you could include your name and contact info, last 8 digits of your VIN, the name of your dealership and appointment information) and we'd be sure to follow up on that.

    Happy Holidays,
    GM Customer Service
  • caoroncaoron Posts: 4
    I have 2004 Colorado Z71 Crew Cab With I5 engine and I'm experencing intermittent hesitation on acceleration, expecially when I first drive off after vehicle has been sitting for a while and cold. I have already experenced the Carbon Buildup in the Throttle body and I just cleaned that and I am still experencing the hesitation problem as if it is not getting fuel. After a few seconds it will continue acceleration. Anyone experenced this problem. P.S. Also the engine light comes on for a couple of days and then resets.
  • I have an 06 Chevy Colorado, bought it used with 50,000 miles. My husband and I have put about 10,000 miles on it and had no problems until a few months ago. We thought it was the fuses at first because the first time it wouldn't crank one of the fuses had come loose, it happened once more with the fuses so we replaced some of them. Have had issues where I couldn't get it to crank so my husband would drive home from work to only have it start up the first time he tries!! The probem has progressively gotten worse over the last few weeks, where it would happen every once in a while to where it was an everyday, nonstop thing. The last two weeks it has taken longer and longer to get the truck to start up with trying to start it in the ten minute intervals. This past week the time frame went to 15 to 30 minutes of trying to an hour and half sometimes two hours of trying till it would finally start. Three days ago my huband spent an hour and a half trying to get it to start doing the 10 min. of wait time, and it would start and then sputter out and die a few times before it finaly started up and ran just fine. Yesterday we tried it and after two hours of trying couldn't get it to start. So we had it towed to the dealership and it actually did the same thing there, it kept sputtering out and dying on them too! Mechanics are saying it is the fuel pump, that it isn't holding pressure, hooked it up to the machine and showed my husband the gauges and it really isn't! Has anyone else had the problem? I have scoured the forums and seen a lot of Colorados with starting issues but none that end like mine. Just wondering if it really is the fuel pump or should I still be worried about the Passlock system, we thought it was that at first too!
  • Oh the mechanics told us that the reason the fuel pump has gone bad is becaus its only driven around the city. I am a stay at home so only do around town driving. I had a Chrysler Mini Van for three years and thats all the driving it got exept for one trip to Florida, never had to replace anything on it!! Their reasonin just doesn't make any sense unless its a design flaw in the system!!
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