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Mazda CX-9 Problems

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  • robh63robh63 Posts: 4
    We recently had water in the passenger side of the cabin. Our '08 CX-9 was previously owned.

    The problem is the drain lines from the sunroof and the evaporator line from the A/C were clogged with leaves, dirt, pine needles, etc. The water somehow overflowed into the front ventilation system and sat in the fan housing. Therefore when I had the a/c fan on and turned, I'd see water coming out the passenger side under the glove box.

    It took two visits to the dealer to remedy. The problem only occurred when the A/C was on, which is why it didn't happen the first three months when the weather was cooler. The lines were clogged and the a/c condensation kept building until it overflowed.

    The first time the dealer flushed the sunroof drain lines (I think four) and lots of leaves and dirt flushed out. We took it home and had the same problem a day later. You could hear the water shifting in the fan housing as you turned the vehicle just enough to allow the blades to contact the water and throw it in the cabin.

    The hidden fix was when the selling dealer helped by calling out the hidden drain line under the exhaust that services the A/C evaporator line. Many dealers don't know about this, and they only found out by calling Mazda direct. They have to remove part of the exhaust to clean out this port. The dealer had to put a hanger up there to finally clear it and they got a shower of water and debris. All is fine now.

    Lesson: Don't park your CX-9 under trees apparently. Not sure if the owner did this with his sunroof open, but who knows. It all seem ridiculous to me. Never had this problem with a cheapo Escort GT with a sunroof. In addition, if it did clog, why not have the over flow go outside the vehicle? If you garage them, you shouldn't have a problem, so they say. But if your cx9 is in dusty, dirty, leafy conditions, you may want to flush the lines from your sunroof annually.

    Hope that helps anyone who has a similar problem.
  • robh63robh63 Posts: 4
    When we have the rear ventilation control button activated on the dashboard, the rear controls don't seem to work. The dealer says they're working normally. However, when you turn the fan control knob it either turns it on or off. The heat/cool knob seems to work fine. Anyone having a similar problem?
  • ozeyozey Posts: 18
    is the car still under warranty? So what was the reason they don't want to fix it? I would take them to court.
    I found out that the car is as good as the service. I wish Mazda know that!
  • ozeyozey Posts: 18
    My rear knob came off and the vent fall into the hall and I could not get it out, shabby construction. Not covered by warranty!!! They told me my kids pushed it in on purpose!
    So far I found that Mazda services is not up-to my expectation.
  • shokshok Posts: 2
    I was reading your post today (Sept 26 2010) and noticed the same problem driving down i70 off Eisenhower/Johnson tunnel heading to Vail. The brake was pulsating when I tried stepping on it. Mine is 2008 w/ 15,000 miles on it. I'm not sure what the problem is, I only notice it on downhill braking. Did you take your car to dealership and what was the problem?
  • ozeyozey Posts: 18
    they replace the rotor twice, now is fine.
  • bberkebberke Posts: 26
    Ok, I hope this does not get buried at the bottom of the thread. My wife first discovered a clunk noise sounding like it came from the rear when she accelerated and turned. Latter the noise came from just accelerating going up a hill. The dealer cannot find the problem. They first replaced the rear differential on the mfg advice. Did not fix it. Now they have it up on a rack comparing part by part to the other all wheel drive they have on the lot.

    The car will have been in the shop 2 weeks Thursday. How long should we wait? What are our next steps? Do we contact mfg direct. What advice do you have?

    They cannot figure out the problem. They gave us a loaner car, it cannot hold all the kids my wife picks up from school so it is very inconvenient and concerning to have a new car with 8000 miles on it and no one can tell us what the problem is.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,093
    I am betting on the bearings.
    Tell your dealer mechanics to check the bearings.
  • bberkebberke Posts: 26
    Not the bearings, I asked. Now 15 days in the shop on car with 9000 miles and they are calling Mazda again. They don't have a clue, but Missouri lemon laws apply soon. I am not sure how they could have absolutely no clue. They replaced the rear differential and now are checking the motor mounts! Wow.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,093
    You did say "come from the rear", right?
    How could it be motor mount, I wonder?
    Ever thought about taking it to another dealer that is more capable?
  • bberkebberke Posts: 26
    When I heard the problem several times, it sounded like mid to rear, not the front. How the heck does a dealer change the rear differential and then say we should check motor mounts? Crazy.

    This is warranty work and they are the only Mazda dealer in this area. Otherwise I would pick up the car now and take it somewhere else.
  • bberkebberke Posts: 26
    Mazda is stating that they need to replace the 4WD unit now. We are only 13 days from this car falling under the Missouri lemon law and they are required to replace the vehicle. What a cluster F****.
  • Has anyone heard of the CX9 having fuel gauge problems? Our gas light keeps coming on after filling the car up with gas (when it has a full tank). It doesn't tend to happen immediately, but when starting the vehicle the 2nd or 3rd time after filling up. And then it either stays on, or adjusts itself once the tank is truly below half a tank of gas. It's such a pain and we have to be super diligent to hit the TRIP A button and keep track of our mileage so we don't run out of gas. :mad:

    Mazda Dealership has looked at the tank itself and found nothing, and last week they removed the whole dash...including the odometer (which we were not happy about-resale effect?!). They thought it was an electrical glitch. We got the car back, filled the tank with gas, and again, the gas lights came on. Have another appointment tomorrow....urgh.
    Anyone have any thoughts?
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Sounds like you have a faulty fuel sending meter which may come as an assembly with the fuel pump.
  • Anyone ever have this problem. The air was turned off in my car. I was driving home, pulled in my driveway and turned off the car. Once I turned off the car the rear vents started blowing air as if I just turned on the a/c. I turned the car on and it stopped. I turned it off and it happened again. I'm sure if I go out there and do it now the same thing will happen. After a little bit it eventually shuts off.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Its been discussed here before...

    REAR/FRONT BLOWER ISSUE
  • cericceric Posts: 1,093
    edited October 2010
    Known issue with earlier models.
    Two relays need to be replaced. They are poorly grounded,
    causing A/C to blow when ignition is turned off.
    Don't worry, it will shut off in 30 secs anyway when the accessory power is cut off.
    Take it to the dealer. It is an easy fix. There is a TSB for it. They know about the issue well.
  • k1200k1200 Posts: 40
    been there....several times with this issue 2007 CX9
    True it did shut off after a while.... definitely more than 30 seconds in my case.
    Had the relays done at least 4 times. Not gonna beat up on Mazda, I do like the vehicles.... but man oh man 13 times to the shop in less than 1 yr.
    The last thing was a unusual "click" only heard for a moment when accelerating , or putting it into drive. I was told it was the "clips that are on the brake pads"
    LOL.... I ask how can that be, when I hear it when I just let the car slow down without using the brake.
    ....It was the transmission. 2 other things too. I started to hear a constant tapping coming from the rear (inside) passenger third row..... took a long time to find it. But found the spot welds under the carpeting and in the rear qtr panel were separating and that i was hearing was the sheet metal rattling against itself on any bumps... had to listen to that for months... the other thing was no matter which way you turn the wheel, the creaking and clunking noises like the front end was made from an old wood ship.... :sick:
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    k1200..

    Clicking is coming from the axle shaft splines having a slight play between them and the splines in the hub assembly. The fix is to have them greased up to stop the clicking...works like a charm!

    Creaking/clunking noise from the front end is coming from the bump stops rubbing on the strut rod. The fix is to raise the vehicle and lather/grease up the bump stops and strut rod with white lithium grease, dielectric grease or any other heavy grease that is water proof....works like a charm as well!
  • cericceric Posts: 1,093
    Recently I learned that choosing a good dealer to maintain your vehicle is probably more important than choosing a brand of vehicle.
    I absolutely love my Mazda dealer near where I work.
    It adds greatly to my satisfaction of owning my CX9.

    On the relays.
    The replacement relays are not just "new" relays. They are actually different relays in design (even different in color). I am not sure your dealer has been aware of this....
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    FYI: Relay part number is G115-67-730 you need two of them.
  • I have a 2008 CX9 GT which I love. However, I have had several issues with the steering wheel locking and being unable to start the car. This was fixed once with a new wiring harness in 2008 but has happened again. It happened with both the remote start and regular start. I also had the car lock with the keys INSIDE which is supposed to be impossible. The dealer has been unable to explain or fix the locking issue. I am going to be driving for ten hours at Thanksgiving and am getting worried about the car not being drivable.
  • The dealership recently recommended changing my battery. I agreed to let them change it because I was worried about programming issues if the battery went dead and was changed at home.

    Since the change the passenger side window would not operate properly. I took it back to dealership and was charged $40 to reprogram the window. Now I have noticed the ipod plug is no longer charging, today the driver's side window has lost it programming, and the rain sensing wipers are not working. Has anyone else experienced these programming issues after changing the battery or is this just some weird fluke?
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    I know for sure that the windows need to be reprogrammed if the battery goes dead or is replaced. In fact most of the reprogramming rituals are described in the owners manual, the fact that these crooks gouged you for an extra $40 for what they should have done in the first place when replacing the battery is beyond my comprehension. If I were you I'd go back to the stealership and ask to speak to a manager and demand your $40 back because they should have reprogrammed your windows, wipers, et.al. when you paid them to replace the battery. JMHO
  • I bought 2010 Mazda CX-9 in March and have had many problems since. I would like to share my bad experiences and get your insights.
    1. In 2 months, transmission valve broke down and shift gear only went to 3rd. I had my car in the dealer shop for a week to fix it.
    2. In the hot summer, the front windows bounced back down after they hit the top as if there was an object sensored.
    3. The side mirror (driver side) vibrates badly after 45 MPH. I took the car to dealers 3 times, they could not fix. I was told that other CX-9s were found with the same problem and with many customer inquiries. I called Mazda Service and was told that there is nothing Mazda would do about it and has no plan to fix it since there is no safety concern so I should bear with the problem. This is ridiculous! Evertime I drive I see shaking objects in the mirror driving me crazy.
    DOES ANYONE WITH CX-9 HAVE SIMILAR PROBLEM?
  • From: MazdaCustomerAssistance@mazdausa.com [MazdaCustomerAssistance@mazdausa.com]
    Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 4:42 PM
    To: Kai Kyujang Kim
    Subject: RE: Product Information - Suggestions & Opinions [INTR:418131]

    Mr. Kim,

    My apologies for the confusion regarding our response. Without complicating the matter further, please accept the following as our official response. Mazda has determined your vehicle to be operating within factory specifications, so a repair to your side mirror would not be performed.

    Sincerely,
    Katherine K
    Customer Assistance Specialist

    > > ---- Original Message ----
    > > From : kai.kim@huskers.unl.edu
    > > To : MazdaCustomerAssistance@mazdausa.com
    > > Subject : Product
    > Information - Suggestions & Opinions
    > > Date : Tue, 21 Sep 2010 07:10:21 GMT

    The face of a side mirror on the driver side starts vibrating when my car goes over 50 MPH, making it impossible to identify the objects behind the car in the mirror. I took my car to the dealer 3 times but the problem did not go away. I found from Mazda dealers that there are several CX-9's with the same problem. I filed a complaint case (131420200) with the customer service and the customer service rep name by Tim (x1179) told me that it is just the way the CX-9 is made and it would be too bad if I didn’t like it but I would have to live with the problem since there is no "safety" concern with the problem.
  • ozeyozey Posts: 18
    Just get another car, I am doing that!
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    1. I have never heard of anyone else complain or report such proble. Very likely a one in thousands fluke...sorry it had to be yours.

    2. Did you or anyone replace or disconnect battery? If so, you may need to "re-teach" the windows. Your owners manual tells you how. I would do this even if the battery was never touched, it may have lost its memory.

    3. Very known issue. In fact known in most Mazda vehicles. I have owned a Mazda5 and now my CX-9 and both had same issue. Home remedy is to remove the mirror glass apply heavy grease at the attaching and pivoting points and replace mirror glass. The grease creates enough resistance to greatly minimize or delete completely the vibrating mirror issue.

    Hope this helps!!
  • crikeycrikey Posts: 1,038
    Would you happen to have a 'How To' on #3?
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    I do not have a step-by-step "how-to" that I can link you to or pictures of how to do it, however, what you have to do is move your glass all the way in (left mirror to the most right position and right mirror to the most left position) and hold the inner side firmly while gently but firmly pulling on the outer side of the glass so that the glass gets released from the mirror housing. After removal you can see the attaching and pivoting points on the back side of the glass. Those are the points that need to be filled with grease. To replace glass mirrorjust reverse the process and gently press back into place until it snaps. Hope this helps!
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