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Mazda CX-9 Problems



  • nubgngnubgng Posts: 6
    We have a 2008 CX-9 Grand Touring and just recently when we shut off the vehicle the A/C comes on full blast for about 2 minutes.

    Has anyone experienced this with their CX-9 and what did you do about it? I know I can take it to the dealer, but if it something simple and a DYI then I would prefer to do that.

    Thanks for the help.
  • alamadeelalamadeel Posts: 6
    I bought a 2010 CX-9 SPORT FWD, and so far everything seems OK except for the wind noise that keeps coming from the driver window and (possibly) from passenger side as well.

    I usually notice this sound when I drive above 40-50 mph. It seems like the noise is coming from the top of the window. I don't feel any air coming inside though. I took it to the dealer today and they are saying that everything seems OK. Just to check, my dealer let me drive another CX-9 Sport but I heard the same wind noise from driver side. I am trying to ignore it as much, but it is just freaking me out whenever I go above 50 mph. I am not sure what do to do. Has anyone experienced something like this? I have roof rails as well, but that much noise can not be just because of roof rails?

    Please help :(
  • horseygirlhorseygirl Posts: 13
    I had the same issue with my '08 GT.

    It is caused by faulty relay switches. It also happens with the rear unit too. There is a TSB on it. I brought it to the dealer and they replaced them.

    Here is the response that I got from someone on the forum:

    TSB applies to both front and rear blowers, they both have the exact same faulty relay (black). If dealer does not want to cover it, then just buy two relays (one for front and one for rear blower) and install them yourself. They are very affordable and easy to install. The updated relays are light blue in color.

    Part number #G115-67-730
  • nubgngnubgng Posts: 6
    Thanks horseygirl,

    Glad to know that it is something that is correctable. Thought it might be related to the internal computer.

    By the way, what is this TSB you mentioned? Not up to date with the lingo. I'm taking my car in to my mechanic tomorrow and he has a friend over at the Mazda dealership he'll consult with.

    I'll pass on the info to him. What was the cost of the relays and did you have to order them or go to the dealer and buy the part?

    Thanks for all your help.

    Oh, do you know if they are still honoring the recall they had for the inside front door handles where they were replacing them because they were easily scratched?

    I already know about the recall for the possible "runaway" driver's seat. :)
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 7,744
    A TSB is a Technical Service Bulletin.

    It is an notice advising the dealer of information. It may detail an issue such as these relays or it could be something as simple as information on a new tool that will make a repair easier.

    They are not recalls but may be issued in conjunction with recalls.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    TSB 07-008/09

    If you are still under warranty, Mazda will honor this TSB. Otherwise buy the realys (usually in stock) for about ~$12 a piece and install them yourself. The relay box is located on the driver side nearest to the fender and the firewall. It is a long slim black box. if you open it and turn it over, there is a schematic naming the relays. Remove the old (black) realys and replace with new (light blue) relays in the two spots marked as front blower and rear blower.

    Good luck!
  • nubgngnubgng Posts: 6
    Thank you robr2 and davicho. Really great information. I'll be sure to get this squared away.

    Enjoy your weekend.
  • nyckiboynyckiboy Posts: 11
    purchased a 2010 AWD Touring in pearl white about a month ago and I noticed that the paint chips easily... I've already seen a couple of spots - tiny dots - by rear door (driver side).

    Anyone else have this issue?
  • ozeyozey Posts: 18
    Funny, I just got back from the dealer. The paint on my hatchback door was bubbling. The dealer said he will see to replace the bubbling piece, under the warranty. According to Mazda, you have 5yrs/unlimited M on corrosion. However, the corrosion should be from the inside out. Call Mazda service hotline. I have a 2008 CX9 GT.
  • buyer101buyer101 Posts: 80
    edited June 2010
    Hi all
    I do not think this is a problem, but nevertheless I wanted to ping the experts on this forum to see what they feel. Please bear with me while I describe what took place.

    I-80 near the border of NJ and PA is not flat terrain - there are plenty of gradients with successive uphill/downhill stretches. Was going downhill on one such stretch at 70mph. Took my foot off the gas pedal, but the gradient was steep enough to overcome natural engine braking and so the car began to accelerate towards 75mph. At this time I applied the brakes lightly to slow it down. What happened next was unexpected.

    I slowed till about 67 - 68 mph and the car was still in 6th gear but at that instant for some reason CX9 decide to downshift directly to 4 (yes 4, not even 5). The engine which was at around 1900 rpm revved to 3000 and the car slowed rapidly to 60mph.

    Needless to say, this phenomenon does not happen when the brakes are applied at 70 mph on a flat terrain.

    Is there any specific reason why the car downshifted to 4 from 6 ? My guess is when I applied the brakes at about 72 - 73 on the slope, the CX9 "assisted" my manual braking by downshifting, and it did that because of the gradient. But why move to 4 and not 5 ?

    I am not new to engine braking concept but IMO an automatic transmission should not jump from 6 to 4 at speeds greater than 65mph. It causes un-necessary stress on the engine (in this case 1900 to 3000 rpm)

    Ceric any thoughts here ?

  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Normal operation of this very sophisticated 6-speed transmission in our CX-9s. The transmission gets input from different sensors (i.e. Yaw, Speed, ABS, etc.) and if it detects that the vehicle is in a slope gaining speed and you are pressing the brake to slow it down. it will automatically downshift to help you slow down with engine brake. The fact that it jumps into 4th instead of 5th is just programming software that has been uploaded to the parameters in the ECM. The same way it will downshift itself from 3rd right down to 1st when coming to a near solid stop. Mine does that also when going home and going through a small hillside road.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,093
    If the transmission always follows the sequence 6->5->4, then I would call it "stupid". An adaptive transmission is smart enough to make the decision by itself based on inputs of many sensors. Sometimes it may surprise you (like in your case), but it mostly does a decent job. Besides, it "learns" your driving style. If you mostly drive mildly, and decide to "gun it", you will get slow response from it. This may be good or bad depending on your angle.

    It the transmission "always" jump over 5th gear, then, it calls your attention. ;)
  • buyer101buyer101 Posts: 80
    thanks ceric and davicho for your comments.
  • boogitybopboogitybop Posts: 21
    I don't know whether or not the mazda cx9 engine is the same as the cx7 but there are a lot of people with major problems with the cx7 and are having to replace the engine at anywhere from 30 to 80,000 miles. I am one of them. I supplied Mazda with oil change receipts reflecting great service on this car and they refuse to help us in any way. We on the cx7 forum are exploring the possibility of a class action suit against these people. If you are interested in this please forward your e mail address to me:
  • On my 2010 model, when the wipers finish making a sweep of the windshield on the intermittent cycle, there is a noticeable clicking noise, (one time click). Is this normal and does it happen to you? TIAFAR
  • tomhawk1tomhawk1 Posts: 12
    edited June 2010
    Well, I used to love this car. Now not so sure.

    The tires are crappy. Were bad by 18,000 miles.

    3/5/10 - TCS light and brake light keep going on and off. Cause: install brake master cyclinder and brake booster.

    4/28/2010 - Next all the dash lights starting going on and off. It was the BCM. This caused the TCS light, Brake light, oil light all to go on and off while driving. All power in the car was inoperable. The whole car just started doing weird things. I felt completely unsafe driving.

    5/13/2009 Next both remote keyless entries stopped working and doors would not lock. Apparently their was a poor connection in wire harness. Waited a week for part and finally got it fixed.

    6/5/2010 Then car got sent home and same day I noticed the horn does not work. Tried new fuse and no luck. So now it goes back on monday again.

    This car has serious electrical issues.
  • jcpharmjcpharm Posts: 92
    you should check if the lemon law applies.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,093
    It seems to me all the problems you ran into are all "related".
    The dealer was not capable of isolating the problem precisely.
    I suggest you change a dealer. Lemon law only applies to the same problem that the dealer can't fix for three times and it has to be safety related.

    Crappy tires are well-known.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,093
    No. CX7 has I4 turbo.
    Someone keep telling me that modern turbos are very reliable....guess not.

    CX9 has V6 (a variant from Ford's duratec 3.5).
  • steveofsteveof Posts: 4
    Recently had wierd electrical problems with remote entry device, turn signals not working, internal electric locks not working, dashboard lights (TCS Off, Brake, door ajar, oil indicator), lights going on while parked in garage that drained my battery.

    Took the car to the dealer and they determined my Body Control Module (BCM) has water damage caused from clogged drains from the sunroof. The sunroof has drains going down front window side frames down to the bottom of chasis. The drains clogged and water leaked on BCM. The BCM replacement is $650 and cleaning the drains is $114 for total of $774!

    The dealer told me that the drains need to be maintained. I asked if the instructions are in the manual and they stated that the manual DOES NOT have directions to clean and maintain the drains.

    Anyone else have this issue and know how to clean the sunroof drains?
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