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Oldsmobile Bravada

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  • bfaus06bfaus06 Posts: 4
    Well we figured out what it was... Transfer case is junk. Anyone want a 99 Bravada? This is probably the end of its previous problems but I'm getting rid of it anyhow.
  • e10e10 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada and it has been completely shutting off in the middle of the road without a service engine light coming on. I have replaced the fuel pump and the PTSI sensor but it still shuts off after about going the road less than a mile. What could be the problem. is it the computer telling it to stop the fuel from coming to the fuel injectors, or what is it. can anyone give me the answer?
    Thanks
    Ed
  • I just recently purchased a 2000 Olds Bravada. Today was my first day to truly drive it (besides the test drive). Overall it runs pretty good for an eight year old vehicle with 150,000 miles but there is one disconcerting thing that I noticed. When I was going up a rater steep hill (on-road, that is) I noticed that the vehicle surges or pulses. It seems to surge ahead a little bit then back off. It doesn't really feel like the transmission but I'm no auto mechanic. Can anyone give me some insight/advice?
  • bugbajabugbaja Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 olds bravada that jerks or shutters when you turn the steering wheel. the sharper the turn the worst it is. i had the oil changed some years ago it helped but it has been getting bad. i just changed the oil again but the problem is still there. PLEASE HELP any suggestions or ideals i will be ever in your dept. thanks Mark
  • sonny9sonny9 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Has anyone ever experienced a roaring noise (sounds like roaring noise is coming from the engine) when you first start the engine or first accelerate while taking off? It seems that after a couple of minutes of driving the noise quits.We recently bought a 18' travel trailer but before we did we had the transmisson beefed up and completly rebuilt. Yesterday while driving on the interstate with the travel trailer I had the Bravada on cruise contol and as we went up a small incline the engine started roaring as if the Bravada was in neutrial and some one was pushing on the gas and revering the engine. This happened only once on the interstate. After getting off the interstate we had made a complete stop at a red light and as I accelerated the roaring noise started again. The transmission didn't seem to slip and we didn't lose any power. After that it never did it again. Our Bravada's max towing load is 5600 LBS. and we were towing 4200 Lbs. It's really hard to exactly figure out if the noise is coming from the engine or the transmission.If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated. I just don't want to blow an engine or tear the transmission up.

    Thanks,

    Sonny9
  • kruzkruz Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Blazer that I just bought that's doing the same thing. Mine happens while cruising at just above 40 mph with the tach jumping between 1000 and 1500 rpms. I can feel the "surges" that are in rapid succession while at that speed. Other than that issue, the transmission seems fine. I'd also like to know what's causing this.
    Kruz
  • kzenkzen Posts: 6
    I own a 2000 Bravada with 57,000 miles on it (it was pre-owned).

    About three months ago I was stopped at a traffic light and at acceleration there was a little pop under the hood and the car died in the middle of an intersection. Right before it died, all of the gauges went crazy, then nothing. It wouldn't start. Had it towed to the service station and they said it was the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter, and one month later the Service Engine light came on and a few miles later, DEAD again. I had it towed again and was told it was the fuel pump (again). It was replaced at no cost to me.

    About three weeks after that the vehicle started over heating on short (four mile drives to work), it was the radiator and I had it replaced. Now, I don't have any heat. The blower must be working because the AC works.

    Yesterday, less than one month later, the car started idling really rough while stopped at a traffic light. When I put my foot on the gas, there was no power, just hesitation, (hard to explain) then the car died, again, in the middle of a busy intersection, no warning lights came on. It started up in about a half hour but did the same thing about two miles down the road. I'm scared to death to drive it.

    Does anyone know what's going on? I have so much money invested at my service station and I don't know if they're missing something or doing something wrong. I'm scared to death to drive it because there is no warning when it dies and it's always at an intersection.

    Two days ago I spent $800.00 for new tires so I really hate to sell it, plus, aside from these last three months (I've had it for four years), I've had no problems and I do love the vehicle, it has all the bells and whistles on it and it handles great in all kinds of weather and it's in beautiful condition. Can anyone help this lady in distress?
  • my 99 bravada has low oil pressure and makes a noise. I checked the oil stick and it is dry no oil so I put 3 quarts in and still dry no oil no leaks and pressure is low is on 0 at idle when rev pressure is little below 40 but still makes noise no smoke from exhaust oh enige light is on and stays on. what could be the problem thanks Larry
  • Does your air compressor switch work on the back during this time that the bags are deflated. I had a similar problem where the whole air system wouldn't work, so I disconnected the battery terminals to reset the computer and now it works fine.
  • Me Too! I just purchased a 1995 GMC Jimmy and have noticed surges at different speeds especially noticable while using the cruise control. It just seems like its not getting a smooth flow of gasoline but its very rythmic like its pulsing.

    If I find out what it is I will let you all know unless you find out first.

    Goodyguy~
  • First, I need directions to replace the window motor on the drivers side front door.
    Next!! Big issue! Only when the truck is cold, like in the mornings, it takes forever to start (about 8 tries). We have had the fuel pump checked and been told that it is fine. We have had the distributer cap, plugs and wires all replaced, along with the fuel relay. Can anyone help with the diagnoses?? Could it be the MAPS sen.? We were told to stop sinking money into it but it runsd GREAT after we get it started. We also noticed when we take the gas cap off, there is a release of fumes, you can hear the hiss for a few seconds.
  • Hello Does anyone know the the fuel pressure reading for 1999 bravada 4.3

    its very hard to start without starting fluid
  • I'm a recent Bravada owner and resisting changing out all four tires when 2 are nearly new. I am enjoying the vehicle, but the learning curve is forcing me to go back to school!
    I'm getting a lot of mixed information on tread wear differences putting a strain on the AWD system, ABS system, and differentials. Some say 1/32" tire tread difference, 1/8", 1/4"!
    My manual says nothing AT ALL about it and only comments on importance of not using mismatched tires/sizes. Since my 98 is full time all wheel drive, and not on automatic demand, I wonder if that's why one dealer serviceman said it shouldn't make any difference unless I notice the ABS light go on.
    Does anyone review year models to determine how crucial this issue is, or just accept the latest status quo, that newer vehicles demand...1/32"?
    Is there a tech out there with the low down?
  • seasons greetings!! I just joined here, since I just bought a 2000 bravada! I'm trying to find an owners manual. also, there is some noise, that sounds like it might be something in the ball joint (right side) or possible somewhere in the wheel housing, OR something in the drive shaft (front) or universal joint. sort of a clanking sound. does anybody have an idea about any of these issues? THANKS!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Welcome aboard and happy new year!

    This may be helpful: Where To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • MIrobMIrob Posts: 1
    I just bought used 1994 bravada about a month ago. I love it! AWD with smarttrak is awesome in snow and ice in MI, I replaced all 4 tires and and had remote start installed. other than that and routine maintenance all I have done is fill it with gas and drive it. It is all that! now if I can just get my wife to stop wanting to borrow it...
  • Hello. I still have my 00. It sat for a year and finally I got the transmission replaced , it will be a year in March 09. Since then I have had to get the heater fixed twice and again the thing kept dying all summer after it was driven about 30 minutes. Has anyone experienced the dying part? It only does it in the summer months when you use the air conditioning. I really am not looking forward to this another summer. The transmission guys told me they fixed it. Not!! Anyone know what this could be? Since we bought it used in 03, it has done that. Thanks.
  • nubnub Posts: 3
    Hello all. First post here but unfortunatly it's because of a problem. I just recently bought my wife a 98 Bravada that has 110,000 miles on it and is in imaculant condition. We have only made a few short trips(less than 100 miles) and really like the vehicle. While she was running some errands she went to leave the store to go home and the truck wouldn't start. She ended up getting a ride home frome a friend. After getting off work we went to see what we could figure out thinking it may be a bad battery. Before trying to start it I checked the batt. voltage and it was 12.3 and while she tried starting it dropped to 10.1, started and ran for about 10 seconds and died. After a few more tries we pulled the battery and took it to get tested. The battery tested good and the parts guy said it may be the alternator so we went back and I pulled the alternator only to have it test good. The engine turns over strong but wont fire. Something we noticed is in the upper right of the gauge cluster is a battery icon that is lit and has not been in the past. Also when you turn the key to the run position none of the other "idiot lights" come on, Service Engine, Seat Belt icon etc. This leads me to believe its an electrical problem but where do I check? I did check the fusible link on the positive batt. terminal and it's good. All fuses under hood and on the interior fuse panel are good. One last thing that may help point me in the right direction. I was going to and roll the truck into a "better" spot in the parking lot (yes it's stranded) but when you turn the key to the run position and push on the brake it wont come out of park. Any insight or experience would be very welcome. I just hope this isn't a sign of things to come.
  • nubnub Posts: 3
    I've never seen an automotive forum with so little activity. On other forums I visit somone would have at least tried to help. Does the moderator have any auto experience or is this place all about checking out each others mud flaps? My problems been solved, thanks anyways.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I guess there aren't too many '98 Bravada owners who could pitch in to help. So, how did you end up solving your problem?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • nubnub Posts: 3
    Spent a few hours visually inspecting and started troubleshooting with a volt meter. Bad ignition switch.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I guess that is consistent with the "idiot lights" not coming on when you turned the key to the run position. Glad you got that fixed! :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • can i put a manuall override cable in too activate the 4 wheel drive when i need it? been stuck too many times no codes are coming up the system just does not work consistant?
  • Hey everyone I just recently replaced my fan clutch. When the fan started sounding like a jet engine I also noticed another noise that initally sounded like it was coming from inside the rear part of the car. After I rolled down the windows and listened to it, it sounds like it's coming from under the car. I only hear the noise when I'm accelerating in gear. The noise changes tones and frequencies while I'm driving, it's quite wierd. After I got the fan clutch replaced I figured the noise would go away but it did NOT. Has anyone else experienced a noise which I can best describe as a whining one, but again the noise changes periodically. It doesn't sound like it's coming from the engine, it sounds like it's in the muffler almost. Thanks!
  • Hello to all. I hope you have good luck with your Bravadas. I loved mine but getting way to expensive to keep it running. I must have gotten one of those if it's bad it's bad deals. Runs great until the next problem is fixed and on and on. Traded it in today for an Envoy. Used 2004.
    Goodbye to all.
  • What was this guy's fix?
  • I have the same problem with my 2000 Bravada. It drives down the road straight without any problems. When I turn going forward or backwards it shutters and jerks.

    How did you fix your problem?

    I am going to try and change my transfer case oil first, I have not done that in a while.

    I found this on the internet in a forum:

    Also started noticing "crow hop" in the front end, due to the transfer case shift module.
    I started doing some research, and have found that there is supposed to be power to the front axle all the time, but the transfer case shift module may be jammed causing the transfer case to apply maximum torque to the front axle all of the time. GM wants $980 CAN for a new encoder motor. That's a bit ridiculous I think.
    I think it could one of 3 things. I put close to $1700.00 in to my awd system this year. It could be an internal problem. It could be the computer board that runs the whole system. The most likely problem is the encoder motor that is on the side of the transfer case that engages the internal clutch plates to engage the awd. I paid close to $600.00 for this motor from my GM shop. Best thing to do is that the bravada to a GM shop and they can plug a computer into it and drive it around and try to find out the problem. Also my GM shop said to flush the transfer case every 10,000 to 15,000 miles to keep the transfer case in best working condition.


    I hope this helps. Please let me know what you find out.

    Kevin
  • alcnalcn Posts: 1
    Howdy -

    This might be so simple as to be too easy. We just purchased a 1999 Bravada. Driving it home was an ease until I lost all power. Lucky to get it off the highway and into a truck stop.

    We needed to leave it there all night so wanted to get it in a good position. We could not get it out of park. So charged the battery enough to start the car and get it moved into a good position.

    A mechanic there stated it was an alternator. The battery is new.

    We are going back tomorrow but want to make sure the alternator is bad before we purchase a new one.

    Anyway, hope this helps.
  • lindalululindalulu OrlandoPosts: 13
    Did you ever get your vehicle all fixed? I'm kinda going through the same thing...My 2000 over heated, $400 tune-up later along with a new(used) manifold and warped heads fixed. My AC and heater does not work, the air blows but no heat or cold air. It acts like it's going to stall out when stopped at a traffic light. I had a friends husband look at it a couple weeks ago and he said that when my vehicle over heated, the coolant (the Dex kind), apparently got into the engine, etc. I just don't want to waste a lot of money on guesses! Thanks... :(
  • bugbajabugbaja Posts: 3
    I change the oil you need to buy the GM special oil for transfer case. I drove it about 300 miles and change it again. It help but it there still some chunging if you turns the wheel all the way but a lot better than it was.
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