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Honda CR-V Power Door Locks



  • scott1212scott1212 Posts: 4
    All of the sudden, any time I try to unlock the doors with the button on the key or the unlock button on the armrest, all then doors unlock for a second and then relock. Has anyone ever seen this before?

    It seems like the issue might be in the front, driver side door lock because if I hold the actual lock switch in the unlocked position, the doors all remain unlocked.

    I've check the Driver's Manuel and there doesn't seem to be anything about this,

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Probably broken switch, or the wires leading to it are shorted out.
  • bazz1bazz1 Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    My rear cargo door will not open at all. Problem started intermittent, would some times open, and then would open with either front door open. Have taken rear internal covers off and checked everything I could, but now that is has stopped working can not get in to check anything else. Fuses all check out ok under steering wheel. Any ideas at all please. Oops sorry if I have posted to wrong area.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    My rear cargo door will not open at all. Problem started intermittent, would some times open, and then would open with either front door open. Have taken rear internal covers off and checked everything I could, but now that is has stopped working can not get in to check anything else. Fuses all check out ok under steering wheel. Any ideas at all please. Oops sorry if I have posted to wrong area.

    Does it unlock with the key?
  • sd73sd73 Posts: 5
    Hello -

    My CRV's door locks and mirrors are not working. The switch on the driver's side door is unresponsive when moved up or down. The door locks work from the remote on the key chain though (???). I have tried replacing both fuses for the R/C Mirror and Door locks thinking maybe that was it, no luck. Any ideas?
  • indoflyerindoflyer Posts: 2
    edited May 2010
    coolhonda.. did you figure out what was wrong? My 2003 CRV has the exact same problem and this started just a month or so back. The driver side lock does not operate with the remote keyless. I can however still lock from the manual lock on the driver's side door, which will lock all other locks. The other thing I found, is that if I lock the driver's door with the key (not remote keyless) after exiting the vehicle, and then do the remote keyless lock, then I hear the 'beep' to indicate the doors are all locked.

    Appreciate ideas/resolutions.
  • coolhondacoolhonda Posts: 7
    indoflyer.. not yet but most people I've asked suggest that the actuator or broken wire connected to the door lock / actuator. I'm planning to take apart the door panel again and check out this actuator and test for broken wires now that the warm weather is comming back to New England. If I find the problem, I will be more than happy to share what the problem was with our forum. Take care and enjoy the ride...
  • indoflyerindoflyer Posts: 2
    thanks! I might end up taking the door apart myself and checking this out. Any idea what the part# and the approximate cost is?
  • lobelia2klobelia2k Posts: 2
    Hi all. I have a CRV 2005 and had the exact same problem. It escalated further when I could not unlock the door from the inside using the manual door lock. The actuator is your problem. The cost here in Philadelphia for the part is $57.91; labor was $285.00!!! Take the door off yourself and replace. Save yourself some big bucks! Good luck all. :cry:
  • berriberri Posts: 4,000
    The actuator went on my 04. Next was its the power window. Now the cruise control is acting up. Haven't gotten the A/C crapout yet. The car only has 60K and has been well maintained. What a POS! I think Honda quality has gone way down.
  • lobelia2klobelia2k Posts: 2
    I too am worried about Honda quality. I purposely purchased a Honda because of their quality reputation. This car is not even five years old and barely has 31,000 miles on it and it too has been well maintained. Scary.
  • penguin59penguin59 Posts: 6
    2007 CRV - LX 2 WD ... Solenoid on rear drivers side door had become very loud when activated about two months ago. It and other 3 doors (and hatch) all worked fine otherwise as far as responding to key fob and manual lock activator and staying locked or unlocked. Auto lock worked fine after speeding up if doors were unlocked. Now, the driver side rear solenoid is even louder, but everytime the car accelerates through approx 9 mph all door solenoids relock the doors whether the doors were already locked or not. Will that occur if just one door isn't sensed as locked? I'm wondering if replacing the rear driver side solenoid might fix all problems?
  • sd73,

    I just finished replacing the auto door lock on the drivers door of my 2004 CR-V. This completely fixed the door lock problem I had which is identical to the problem you are having. The mirrors not working is posibly the connector has slipped off. Changing the power door lock was no easy task and took me about 3 hours start to finish. There are several sites that show how to do this but none were very descriptive and I had to figure it out as I went. Everything works like new again so it was successful. The part cost me $83 and change shipped to my house from autozone. Good luck!
  • hawg1983,

    Good to hear you finished and is working OK. Is the actuator the grey/black plastic box located on the left bottom side of the driver's side door that has two electrical connectors plugged into it? If so how did you detach it from the white plasic rod holder?
  • I see that I am not the only guy with a driver door lock problem. hawg mentioned having visited sites showing you how to replace the actuator. I would like to know where these sites are as I intend to do this myself. Additionally, I am worried about how to take the door panel off. In the old days I remember you had to have some special kind of tool. Any tips would be appreciated by this new member. Thanks
  • charlie121charlie121 Posts: 1
    the power door locks failed. I have the non antenna style so used the grey wire to re-run power to the module in the driver's door, got a used driver's actuator and module but the other three doors don't work even though there is continuity between the door and under the dash for the two wires that lock/unlock the passenger doors. Any suggestions.
  • kim_in_brkim_in_br Posts: 2
    If none of your locks are working, may be the electronic Modulator. I started having multiple symptoms... first locks wouldn't work, then my Brake light would come on intermitently and then my A/C wouldn't come on. Pulled into Dealership and they wanted to change out 3 different things, including $1600 for new A/C which they told me was fried. I paid them $75 for "checking my car out" and brought it to my local mechanic. They changed our the Modulator and that took care of the door locks, the brake light intermitently coming on and the A/C worked just fine! It cost me about 1/4 of what I was quoted at the dealership.
  • kim_in_brkim_in_br Posts: 2
    p.s. About 2 years later, I began having problems with ONLY the driver door lock not working with the key fob. Replaced the driver door Acuator and all is well.
  • dave361dave361 Posts: 1
    My 2002 CRV is having a similar problem. All power door locks have stopped working and the parking brake light stays on.

    kim_in_br you said that this could be an electronic modulator problem? Can you give more details. What is an electronic modulator?
  • stmradiostmradio Posts: 1
    Hope this helps someone. 1999 CR-V, but probably useful for other years. Just solved my uncooperative driver's side lock. For about a year I had to jerk on the outside handle before the key could lift the lock post and let me in. Sometimes I couldn't get out too. The electric lock would pull it back down. Pulled the door panel and unplugged, then found the problem was still there, except was no longer relocking itself, it just was hard to move, especially when hot. Took the whole thing out. Noticed a spring lying in the bottom of the door. Looked at latch mechanism and found two hooks with no spring. Loop on spring broken but I have a boxful collected over the years so was able to find a close match (about 1 inch long, medium tension). Now the unlatch lever returns to its place after the door handle released. The reason heat made it worse is the grease: slicker when hot, unlatch lever would fall back down when handle let go, blocking the locking lever. Now it stays up out of the way. Did have to adjust the length of the handle rod (take the handle assembly out while still connected to door, pull up and turn it around until the rod is right length [it is threaded at the top knuckle for this purpose]-- in my case about two turns CCW). Now everything works great. Decided I liked it better without electricity, left it unplugged. Can still un/lock the rest by the door switch, but do the driver door manually. Note: getting the assembly out is not very easy and getting it back in is worse. To get the window track out of the way: take off the screw below the latch on the end of the door, peel the rubber track out of the metal channel, and set metal channel aside. The rest is just paying attention and not forcing anything.
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