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Hyundai Tucson Acceleration Problems

Hello - I am new to this forum. Had my 05 Tucson since 6/06. Bought off the lot for a good price since prior year model. Had no problems up until now. Just hit 40,000 miles. And over the last month, have had a couple of issues with acceleration. First time it happened, I was going down the interstate at about 70mph and then all of the sudden the acceleration died. Car went from 70, to about 30mph. Was able to get to side of road w/o getting run over and had my foot to the floor with the gas pedal just to get the car to move. Engine was "missing" but never stalled. Had no power at all. Finally got to gas station and let it idle in park. Pushed the gas and the engine rev'ed up. Put the car in drive and no power. Shut it off for a little bit and started again. Car is fine. My dad checked the air filter and it was slightly dirty. So we put a new one in about 3 weeks ago. No problems. Until today. Same thing - on interstate, lose power, etc... Does anyone have any idea what this could be? No engine lights come on, no overheating, nothing!!! Sorry to be so lengthy, but wanted to get an idea before i took to dealer and they tell me its "nothing"
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Comments

  • greatcarsgreatcars Posts: 66
    Let dealer's mechanic drive in interstate road around 80 miles per hour for a while. I believe the problem was triggered by reaching a certain speed. It surely had problems.
  • dalev2dalev2 Posts: 2
    I recently had the identical problem this weekend while on a trip from Asheville, NC. My wife's Tucson (2005) lost power at about 75-80 mph when automatically downshifting to go up (what I consider to be) rather inconsequential hills. I could stop the problem by manually upshifting the auto transmission but this (obviously) ends up lugging the engine and, when it downshifted, the power loss again happened This loss of power on hills occurred throughout the day, including the identical power loss when stepping on the accelerator at a stop light (not the normal fuel injection delay...but, instead, a distinct power loss akin to running on 3 cylinders). Today ( Wednesday), the car runs fine and I am unable to duplicate the condition. What was your dealers prognosis?
  • I had the EXACT same problem with a 2005 Tucson that I recently bought used. Did any of you ever resolve this problem?
  • Hi all - Dealer "said" an air hose had come loose and that was what caused the problem. Funny how it has happened several times since then... Actually 2 - 3 times since then. One time the car actually died on me in the road. And most recently again going down the interstate. Can't figure out what is triggering it because it happens at various times from a low in town speed to interstate driving. But always when I accelerate. Plan to take to dealer again soon.
  • sa258sa258 Posts: 3
    Hello - I have been driving Tuscon 2006 did not have any problem until 34000 mile, the engin died on the stop sign 6 times and once when I was driving 35-40mph. the engin starts without proplem. I made 4 trips to the dealer and they can't find anything wrong with the car. Does anybody have the same problem? If so what is the solution? Help!!
  • ynk4rynk4r Posts: 1
    I haven't seen any solutions to the problems above.. can someone help? I have a BRAND NEW Hyundai Tucson and the engine keeps giving out on me. 3 months ago it stuttered and then DIED when i came to a stop. I started it again, and everything seemed normal. I took it to the dealer, and they couldnt' find anything. A month later I felt the SAME stutter mid highway 60mph drive and this time I didn't stop, and thankfully, car recovered and kept driving normally. Did not bother taking to the dealer this time. LAST WEEK, in mid traffic, car suddently died I was at a stop, I restarted it and it died immediately. So I restarted and kept my foot on the gas and this seemed to keep it alive, as soon as i got out of traffic into open road it stuttered again, and this time DIED mid drive with my foot on the gas. I came to a stop and tried starting car, this time it was no use, car wouldn't stay on. Had to push it to the gas station. Next day at Dealer.... CAR WORKING JUST FINE!!!!!
    So is this a dud?! A bad apple? Is this a computer problem? Or is there some physical cause to this problem that anyone has found? Because of it's randomness it makes me think it's the computer, will resetting the computer like the dealer did going to work? Or could it be the Oxyegen air censor, or fuel filter? Anybody got any ideas? I get NILTCH from the dealer... but because it's in its first year and under warranty I have to keep taking it there.
    Thoughts?
  • sa258sa258 Posts: 3
    After taking to one dealer 4 times they could not come up with any answers, the last time I was at the dealership they said it could be the loose air duck. They did checked and it wasn't it. I decided to take it to different dealership, they might be able to locate the problem!! I hope...., If they come up with some answer I will let you know. This been going on for 9 months I am ready to trade in for different car. If you get some answers please let me know.
    Thank you
  • jon12pagejon12page Posts: 2
    ynk4r AND sa258 -- I wish I had an answer for you both. But it sounds like your problem is much different than anything I encountered. I was having acceleration problems at high speeds after 100 miles on the Interstate. My Tucson has never stalled out on me.

    pcherry328 -- I ended up having 3 different places try to diagnose my problem (2 were Hyundai dealerships and 1 was a little shop in the middle of nowhere). All 3 had different ideas. The little shop suggested that I had some water in my fuel. Not sure if that's the case.

    Either way, I've only had the problem when my tank was below 1/2 a tank. So now, when I go for long trips, I stop every 100 miles and fill up the tank. So far, so good.

    Sure, that's not an ideal solution, but it beats the alternative.

    Have you been having better luck, yourself?
  • kytcougkytcoug Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem described by everyone above -- engine was fine until 60K (when the warranty ran out) Tucson engine gives out on interstate, sometimes on my local country road at 50 mph. The engine looses power for a while, check engine light comes on, then problem corrects itself and check engine light goes off. Shops never see anything because the engine sensor reset and don't store in memory why the check engine light comes on.

    My mechanic suggested it might be the crank shaft sensor (tells the fuel pump how much fuel to give engine). He showed me 9 webpages of complaints from owners describing the same problem and the crank shaft sensor was the source. Since then, I have had one delay and the check engine light came on--so not convinced that was the issue. I have wondered if using the cruise control might cause some of these problems, maybe it gets"stuck" Perhaps fuel filter and pump, but that's a huge cost.

    Anyone have any suggestions on this one?
  • butch30butch30 Posts: 1
    I just am wondering if all of you have 6 cylinder automatics. I bought a new 2006 Tucson with the 4 cylinder 2.0 liter 140 horsepower engine. It has the locking 4WD which was the last year they offered it with the standard transmission. So far at 48,000 no problems whatsoever except for a leak in the power steering unit which they replaced without a problem. I find the 2 liter plenty powerful with the standard tranny although very steep hills are a problem. I routinely use it to haul.

    I'm just wondering if this is just a problem with the 6 cylinder models and the auto. If so; the problem may be transmission related. I have never liked automatics and will always go for the standard if offered. I would suggest that you may want to go to non dealer mechanic that you trust. I never go to the dealer for maintenance. My mechanic of 20 years seems to have kept my Tucson going with no problems and no unwarranted maintenance. Your dealers may be hiding something and from the maintenance section of this forum; they are quite a few dishonest dealers out there who depend on your maintenance and repair dollars for their survival in this economy!
  • kytcougkytcoug Posts: 3
    I do have the 6 cyl. auto...had the fuel pump and filter replaced and no more stalling problems..i can feel it getting more power. Lets hope that did the trick.
  • sa258sa258 Posts: 3
    Why did you have the fuel pump and filter replaced?? Did any lights came on to let you know where the problem was??
  • kytcougkytcoug Posts: 3
    The check engine light did come on and the code was a misfired 5th cylinder. My impression was that the engine was not getting the gas it needed as it would cough and stutter when I tried to climb hills or increase power, the pump and filter seemed to be the cause.

    While the new the pump and filter did improve road performance, now I have a long crank before it starts up. Upon further inspection, we noticed an air filter control valve for the gas system that was completely clogged with dirt; the mechanic banged about two cups on the telltale red dirt from the road I live on. With this clogged the engine does not get the correct gas/air ratio, the engine floods and will not start until it can get enough air the third of fourth try. It also starts easier when colder outside (air is more condensed) then when it is hot (air expanded). This could also cause the engine to struggle when more power is needed...basically the engine can not breath.

    I bought a the 4x4 Tucson small because I live in the mountains on on a dirt road. I also drive many back roads looking for hiking and camping spots. What seems really stupid to me is that a 4x4 SUV has a system that gets clogged with dirt after only 1.5 years of ownership.
  • dalev2dalev2 Posts: 2
    for what its worth, my Tucson has never been off road, I don't live on a dirt road, and the air filters have been changed (by me) at twice the rate that is suggested and yet I encountered the problem going 60 mph.............so I don't believe it is due to a clogged air filter, etc. As for changing the fuel filter and pump, Hyundai in their inscrutable way saw fit to put both of these items in the fuel tank. Good Luck trying to replace these at home, since it requires draining and dropping the fuel tank. The stalling is an obvious problem that seems to be occurring to a number of people and its only a matter of time before someone is involved in a serious accident. I guess both Hyundai and the government will look into the problem then. Until that time, cross your figures and hope nothing happens. Since the problem occurred in my wife's Tucson more than a year ago, it has not reappeared. C'est la vie.
  • Brand new 2009 Tucson, driving it home from the dealership and it did exactly as described, stalled at a stop sign. Car is still at the dealership 24 hours now with them completely unable to figure out what is wrong. The diagnostic computer is getting nothing from the control unit, even after they swapped out units from other Tucsons on the lot.
  • Bringing our 2009 Tucson home from the purchase, it did exactly as you described. I had drove a deliberate 55 mph home from dealer, a distance of under 10 miles. First stop sign after exit from the hwy, it did the sputter/stall/not start thing. Had to shut it down and restart before it recovered.
    Took it back to dealer and they are (still at the time of this writing) unable to get any information out of the control unit (diagnostic computer is completely blank when hooked up to unit). They swapped out control units but problem remains of no info coming out.
  • 4 banger with auto. A/C was running at the time. Like I said, was coming home from dealership 1st time so don't think dirt etc. a problem (3 miles on vehicle, 13 when got home).
  • I am having similar problems with my 2005 tuscon 6cylinder automatic. The problem started after I changed the battery and the sparkplugs and wires. Incidently one of the mechanics that looked at it told me it did'nt have a gas filter. The dealers told us it needed a new computer chip. For about 3500 dollars. I have to believe it has something to do with the tuneup and new battery. Did anyone on this thread every get this issue resolved?
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    You may not believe this but all these symptoms are classic vacuum hose that are
    used for the smog system. Do it yourself go to a napa or pepboys or ace get
    3 feet of plastic tube clear or black and replace every hose under the hood the
    smog system always has a diagram. One of your is cracked or loose or not put
    back on right during a servicing. each of the little hoses are 3 inches long.
  • nakoonakoo Posts: 1
    Bought 09 GLS in October of 09. Have had alignment problem from day one. Pulls to the right. Took to dealer 2 times so far and was told its due to the road slanting to the right. Was told tire rotation would help, after spending $21.00 at dealer, still pulling to the right. Took to Tires Plus, did alignment which helped a little, but still pulling to the right. Have approx 8,000 miles so far. Anyone having this issue or any suggestions to getting this fixed.
  • Just recently bought a used 06 tucson after my elantra got totaled had the car about 3 weeks had similar problem turns out it was the fuel pump cost me about 400. from a local garage but mine had about 89k miles that could be the problem your having good luck
  • fahdjfahdj Posts: 1
    I also have the same problems in my new 4w 2009 tucson
    the agent told me the injectors need to clean but the problem get back fast
    they reprogram the engine the engine acceleration become good for short time but and return bad It seems this problem will not solved
    note:- I bought this care 5 monthes ago
  • doblakdoblak Posts: 1
    FYI
    I have a 2009 Tucson with 5,374 miles that is 16 months old and just had to replace the Blower Motor and Radio LCD Display due to failure. This was done when I had the oil changed at no charge except for the oild change cost.

    One morning the blower/heat controls were not functional and there was not a blown fuse.

    Dennis
  • I have a Tucson 2009 4W 42,000 km. for the past two months I have been problems with accelerating, the car feels like it is going to stall. After replacing the O2 censor twice and another censor the measures the amout of gas that come out when you accelerate and a censor that measures the volocity when you turn and the fuel pump. I have to take the car back again, because the problem occured again.
    Anyone else with a simular problem what have you done to get it fixed?
  • To almost all above, mentioning problems with acceleration, stalling, engine light comming on, black smoke from the rear (on diesel), bad fuel economy.
    READ THIS !!!
    I have during the past 3 months experienced all of the above, replacing part after part, believing I had resolved the problem. But it always comes back, the stalling, the engine light etc.
    I have replaced the rail sensor, the mass air flow sensor, the in tank fuel pump, the filters and even the turbo. But still no god.
    And yesteday was a breakthrouh.......for probably the third time, I opened the cover under the rear seat to access the fuel pump, and found lots of dirt in the diesel. Of course, the filter was clogged, which I lately have replaced 2 times in less than 10 tanks.
    So I drained the tank, and noticed a sort of layer of paint comming loose, from the tank wall.
    Thinking WTF !
    Called my local dealer today, and they tell me that this had actually been an issue on some Santa Fe's, Tucson's and one H1.
    It appears that some sort of alloy inside the tank disolves in time, resulting in huge problems of course, and a need for a new tank.
    Check this on your car, if you are experiencing some of the same symptoms.
    In my opinion, this is for sure a production faliure, and Hyundai Corp. shoud deal with the cost of replacing the tank with a new one. I will for sure put up a fight with my local dealer, cause this is absolutely ridiculous ! If they say this is normal, than why is it not in the service manual, that the tank need replacing every for example 100 000 km ??!!!
    Worth noticing that gas and diesel models run tha same tank and pumps, but they differ acording to year. (Mine is a -05 2.0 CRDI.) Hope this will help some of you that have had the problem re-appear, like I have several times.
    Let me know, and good luck :-)
  • amobofoneamobofone Posts: 1
    So I can't tell from your post if you actually replaced your tank and if that corrected the problem? I've narrowed mine down to only stalling out and engine light comes on when I have the air conditioner on and I accelerate quickly!? Never happens in the winter, just in the summer when I have the air on...weird, any one else assotiated it with the air conditioning being on?
  • spgandauspgandau Posts: 3
    2005 Tucson. Exact same issues. started at 110,000 miles, and I have been dealing with it for the past 2.5 years. Generally, if I pull off to the side of the road and wait 5 minutes, the problem goes away for a few days. In my "testing" of what it feels like I noticed that if I carefully reduced throttle I could feel a mechanical change in the pressure required to push the accelerator pedal and observe the corresponding rpm. In my case, I noticed that if I kept the rpm less than 2000 and slightly above 1500 rpm, I could slowly coax the car into going faster, gently moving accelerator back and forth. Engine still ran rough, but I could limp home.

    Been to 3 different dealers. Even if the check engine light does not come on, it will throw a code. Here is the dealers "solutions":
    #1. Spark plug code. Replaced all spark plugs and changed timing belt. (dealer #1).
    #2. O2 sensor code. replaced O2 sensor. (dealer #2)
    #3. "engine compression is low; we can give you a new engine or a used engine. which one do you want?" (dealer #3) I took my car (after a week) and drove home without incident.
    #4. I asked dealer #2 for a quote to replace the fuel filters. He never responded to my request.
    #4. fast O2 sensor code. replaced fast O2 sensor. (dealer #2)
    #5. catalytic convertor code. I did NOT replace the catalytic convertor. Dealer #2 said that the fast O2 sensor and catalytic sensor codes were the same, so they were taking the "cheaper" route by changing hte fast O2 sensor first. However, after with other mx people, the symptoms do NOT indicate a bad converter.

    At this point, I decided to choose my own solutions, as I realized that the dealers have NO ability to troubleshoot, and are simply reading codes and swapping pieces. Good money for them; no solutions for me.

    I changed the coil and bought new spark plug wires. I bought a complete fuel filter replacement kit and am doing the filter replacements myself.
    I purchased a rebuilt ECU from a vendor online; that will be going on after I have replaced the fuel filters. All these parts cost me slightly less than what the dealer was going to charge for the catalytic converter replacement.

    I noticed that the car was sometimes taking a few more seconds to start (cranked longer before actually starting). That is what motivated me to change the coil and plug wires. After reading other sites, I understand that if the coil does get hot, it can begin to breakdown; causing harder starts. I thought if the starts could be an issue, perhaps at cruise it might send strange pulses to the computer?? (at this point, I am grasping for possible solutions!)

    there are no "aha!" solutions, and Hyundai is generally lacking in its willingness to listen and figure this out. they prefer to read codes and swap parts. You are on your own. :(
  • No, I didn't replace the tank.....way to expencive and lot's of work.
    So I made my own dieselfilter inside the tank, wrapped around the stock filter attached to the pump. Capable to pick up A LOT more filth before getting clogged. Works like a dream :-) Basically, my plan is to keep driving it till it stops, then take out the filter and clean it. Still havent had a stop for 2 months now though. Still fighting with the Hyundai dealer here, but doesn't seem to get anywhere, so I have contacted a consumers` council here.
    We'll see how it turnes out, but the car will be sold. Never had such a piece of crap.
  • spgandauspgandau Posts: 3
    Jun 22, 2012 updated info:
    After doing all the work above, I replaced the ECU with a rebuilt unit. within 100 miles, I got a check engine light. I went to the dealer and asked for a code and explanation. The code was P0420 (catalytic coverter) The technician, after realizing that I was technically-bent gave a reasoned explanation. Basically, he explained that if the catalytic converter was going bad, it could cause the 02 sensors(both of them) to go bad, and cause other check engine lite issues. He also claimed that the catalytic converter should be replaced every 80,000 miles... which was the first that I had heard of this.
    I went home, bought a "bolt-fit" catalytic converter from NAPA and replaced my old unit (which now had 150,000+ miles). Dealer wanted $900+ to do the job. I bought the unit, rented an impact wrench to get teh bolts loose, spent 5 hrs working, and paid $300+.
    I also sent off my old ECU and had it overhauled. The overhaul report showed the ECU had one capacitor break and spill electrolyte onto the printed circuit board. Several solder joints were poorly done. The overhaul facility cleaned the board, replaced the capacitor and re-soldered several joints.
    So....it seems that part of the issue may have been the catalytic converter being old and partially plugged(?)...it seems that 95% clear is enough to cause a catalytic failure code. It also seems that the ECU had also failed and was partially causing some of the seemingly unrelated codes.
    I have re-set the check engine light (disconnected the negative terminal on the battery, and removed the 10A ECU fuse and waited overnight). So far, I have driven only 50 miles. Runs OK. My understanding is that if I get the P0420 code again, it is most likely caused by the pre-catalytic units that are integral to each exhaust manifold (V6 2.7 L). They will be an expense that I am not ready to cross. If I get another code, I will probably sell the car and get a different brand altogether.... :confuse:
  • spgandauspgandau Posts: 3
    I have finally resolved my issues, to my own satisfaction. I will list them in order:

    a) The ECU was the utlimate culprit. It was broken inside, and after I had it overhauled, there was no more issues with acceleration problem, hesitation, etc.

    b) The check engine light did come on after I initially installed the new ECU. It consisently gave a P0420 code (bank one, which is the aft set of cylinders on the V-6). I had already replaced the catalytic convertor, so I am confident that it was a legitmate code. I did nothing to replace, clean, or deal with the P0420 code.

    c) I re-set the ECU--disconnected the battery AND removed the fuse overnight. Then, I drove for 500+ miles. Initially, the light was off for 70 miles, then on until 200+ miles ( I confirmed the codes at Autozone), then it went off and stayed off. Car operated normally, UNTIL the high outside temperatures arrived.....

    d) Then, the AC was intermittent. I noticed that the engine began to overheat (it never reached redline), and as the engine temperature rose above normal, the AC began to put out less cold air. Eventually, the AC stopped altogether. Then, as the engine temperature returned to normal, the AC began to work again. As long as the outside air temp was less than 90 degrees F, the AC worked. As the temperature rose above 90, the engine would begin to over heat and the AC would slowly put out less and less cold air until it would only blow HOT air.

    e) The check engine light remained OFF through all of this AC problem and engine overheating, so I am confident that the issue of acceleration was resolved with the ECU change. If acceleration is your only issue, I would recommend changing the ECU.

    I did the only thing left to do... :sick:

    I SOLD THE CAR AND BOUGHT A HONDA CR-V. :)
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