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Dodge Durango Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning

13

Comments

  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,522
    edited September 2010
    My 2000 sometimes acts the same. Hot weather seems to aggravate it. It's the sending unit in the tank. They get worn spots over time. The only real solution is to drop the tank and replace the sending unit/pump assembly.
    Personally I don't plan on doing anything about it unless it stops working all together.
  • Hello All. I have a 2010 Durango with very little miles. Nothing was wrong until today... the heat ventilation fan wont stop working! Engine is not running and cold BUT the fan wont stop! Dont have the slightest idea on how to make it stop before having to take it tomorrow to the dealers. Hope battery doesnt die out... pls any advise? Thxs
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,522
    Remove the fuse that provides power to the circuit.
  • i have a 99 durango 5.2 with no heat i have changed the radiator the thermostat the waterpump and i have flushed the heater core. no matter what i do all i get is luke warm air and doesnt seem to be blowing at its full potential. the blower sounds loud as of its on high but feels like its on two
  • dee64dee64 Posts: 8
    Is most of the air coming through the defroster?
  • i have a 2000 durango that i love and i have had the same problems. right now it's not running hot but everytime i turn off the car all the antifreeze leaks out. radiator is new and we can't find any leaks. changed the heater core 1 1/2 years ago and heater hasn't worked since. i have spent thousands and am still freezing. no heat no a/c, and bow loosing antifreeze. i don't know what else to do and no one else does either.
  • dee64dee64 Posts: 8
    Check your passenger side carpet beneath the glove box against the firewall. Is it wet?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,522
    The antifreeze has to be going somewhere. If it's not leaking out, then it must be leaking internally in the engine.
    No heat after core replacement - when the plenum was reinstalled under the dash something must have been put back wrong. The main control cable from the temperature setting dial comes to mind - it's mechanical and isn't hard to install wrong. Could also be a vacuum connection.
    No A/C - could be part of the heater problem, or the A/C itself. Did it work after the heater core was done? The A/C has to be drained & disconnected on a Durango to change the heater core, then reconnected and recharged.
  • ricky16ricky16 Posts: 10
    i have a 2003 dodge diesel the heater will not switch from heat to defrost i don't know if the vacuum pump run the heater or not con you help me
  • redmtn1redmtn1 Posts: 2
    edited March 2011
    The AC will not blow cold when slide levers have been slid all the way to cold. Only a small amout of cool air will come out. Move the slide off cold just a little and it starts blowing warm air. Checked the freon and it is ok. Thanks for your help.
  • redmtn1redmtn1 Posts: 2
    Cold air will not blow out of front or rear vents. Freon is ok. With the dash temperature slide bars all the way over to cold you can feel just a very little cool air. If you just slightly move the temperature slide bar it starts blowing warm air. Can you help me with this problem?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,522
    Is the compressor clutch engaging when the A/C is turned on?
  • wertikwertik Posts: 1
    So what happened? I am having the same issue with my 2003 Durango. Either cold in back or front, but not both. Did the dealers solution solve the problem?
  • I am having the exact same problem. My mechanic and I worked through all the common problems and even found http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/53plo-dodge-durango-slt-getting-no-power-ac-comp- ressor.html

    We ended up checking the relay and supplying external power to the relay and then the clutch engaged and has been working ever since this afternoon. Anyone else get it to work?
  • ra2gmo2pra2gmo2p Posts: 1
    Hi all:

    Got a 2001 Durango SLT with 4.7L AWD.
    Was puttin around today and noticed that the fan was blowing hot air. Double checked the climate controls, all the way blue. The air cooled down when getting up to speed with traffic - 40mph around town speeds.

    I see lots of posts talking about the AC blowing hot air, but this is just the vent fan. The AC button is OFF. (I do have AC in case that makes a difference.)

    Many thanks
  • ed1214ed1214 Posts: 1
    2005 dodge durango a/c works off and on. replaced fuse and relay for compressor but didnt help. when working blows cold air, must be an electrical problem?
  • solecssolecs Posts: 1
    my black vacuum line is not hooked up but I can not find where it goes I have the dash pulled apart for the second time now (first was to replace the heater core) and I dont believe it was hooked up to begin with
  • debbycraftdebbycraft Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    Dodge Durango 2001 front a/c and heat fan does not work, but second and third row seats do work....any suggestions?
  • slayaslaya Posts: 1
    First of all, I am happy I found this forum...very helpful and knowledgeable members. A great resource especially for someone like me temporarily working away from home.

    The vehicle in queston; 2005 Durango SLT V8 5.7L Hemi AWD.

    The passenger floor boards would get visibily very wet when the A/C was on. I thought the cause could have been the drain fittings were a little short or mis-angled because I read many had similar problems and that was the cause for them. I took it in to the dealer here (Riyadh,KSA) and asked them to also check the rear heater as it was only blowing cool air even when the heat was on. They said (after running tests) it wasn’t the drain fittings, rather the cause of the problem is possibly because of a leak in the evaporator. As for the rear, the rear blend door might be broken. They said they won’t know for certain until they get in to the dashboard and the rear. They also said it a very labor-intensive job so obciously quite expensive ($1300ish). However, I didn’t have the work done then and but just charged the freon.

    I then brought it in for the 100,000 km service and also had them do a multi-point inspection. The result of the inspection was that I needed to replace the body isolators (20 total), replace the lower control arm because the bushings had too much play in them (they don’t just replace the bushings, rather the whole control arms), and auxillary belt (pulley, tensioner, etc) should be replaced. As you can see quite a costly repair list.

    I got a quote for the A/C repair from another shop and they quoted me a “sealant” repair for ($200) but they also recommended (based on their experience) replacing the evaporator because the leak will happen again but from a different spot on the evaporator. As everyone probably knows, there is no such thing as “ASE” mechanics here. The only exception is with the dealers. Most of the shops here are pretty much made up of “back-alley” mechanics learning as they go from trial and error. They have no formal training or certification. At least that is what it seems like to me from my few years here. I know there are people who are very skilled and knowledgeable and they never had any formal training. However, finding such people is very difficult, especially here.

    Anyways fast forward to early Aug 2011, I brought it in to the dealer for the front A/C repair and auxillary belt replacement. After I picked it up and as I was returning, the truck temp was rising after about 30 mins of driving. The A/C works but the temp heats up faster with the A/C on. I actually had to stop because it was getting in the 3/4 range of the gauge. I tried to turn on the heat hoping it will bring down the temp but the heat didn’t work. It blew cool air eventhough it was on the hottest setting.

    Is it possible that something went wrong during the repair that may have caused it?

    Also would there be any problems with replacing just the bushings on the lower control arm? I found an aftermarket Moor bushing online. I will ask my brother in Seattle to order it and then send it to me. I sure hope it’s not going to cause any problems because that will save me a lot of money because they are only $50 compared to $300-500 for the complete arm.

    I don’t plan on getting the rear heater fix because I don’t use it here in this weather anyways. Is that going to cause more problems for me later?

    The truck also stall sometimes when I slow down or make a turn. It starts right back up though. It doesn't do this often but just sometimes out of the blue. Any ideas regarding the cause would also be appreciated.

    I would really appreciate any advice/help on this from the members here. I am just trying to get through the end of my contract and then go home so anywhere I can save some money will be a big plus.

    Thanks to all in advance.
  • cws2cws2 Posts: 1
    MY BLOWER ONLY BLOWS THROUGH THE FRONT DEFORST VENTS I HAVE A 2000 DURANGO
    AND WHERE IS THE FAN RESISTOR
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,522
    Possibly either the control has gone out, one or more of the vacuum solenoids has failed, or there is a vacuum leak. There is one cable going from the control to the A/C & heat plenum, but I don't recall what is does 100%. I think it was for the max air/fresh air door.
    The fan resistor is on the top of the dashboard right side. I believe you can access it via a panel under the cowl, but I'm not sure. The only time I have ever seen it is when I had the dash out to replace the heater core.
  • I have air flow out of my two middle vents up front and the two driver side ones in the middle and back row. Nothing on the others and only cold and hot air in the front two. The ones in the back that do work just blow air not cold or hot. Can anyone help with this, is this a problem someone else has had?
  • I had my mechanic test the whole system PCM box. The blower still works intermitently. Any idea's on the fix?
  • I own a 2003 Dodge with front and rear control air/heat. I turned on the defrost the other morning and no air would come out of the front vents. I tried every kind of air flow to the front- ac, heat, defrost, and just feet. No air came out. The back vents are blowing air just fine. Hot and cool. We have checked the fuses and they are fine. I don't know what to do next. I am trying to avoid taking it to the dealership to get fixed because I am sure they will charge me an arm and a leg. Please help. :confuse:
  • robantrobant Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    My 2006 Dodge Durango ADVENTURER 5.7L A/C Condenser Fan Motor keeps running or remaining on more than 30 minutes after I shut the vehicle off. I keeps running the battery dead. I don't know if I should replace the fan motor, or if a sensor is going bad. Help please!
  • I just replaced the compressor and It cost me 60.00 and didn't take me 15 min. and I am by no means a mechanic. Just as easy as any alternator I have ever installed. Our local mechanic quoted me 1600.00 on a rebuilt replacement. It sat for a few months until a friend needed to barrow it and he had pushed me into purchasing a used one and installing it myself. It was quite an easy and cheap fix. I didn't even have to recharge it.
  • kdog77kdog77 Posts: 1
    I am about to go buy a 1999 dodge durango for about 1000 bucks it has black leather int. and 4x4 but the only thing wrong with it is that the ac and heat do not blow air but the motor still works does anybody know what could cause that or how much it may cost to get fixed please reply asap thank you
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,522
    I assume you mean the blower motor works but nothing comes out of the vents. How about the defroster vents, anything coming out of them? Usually these problems are due to the controller itself (it's mostly vacuum operated) or one of the vacuum solenoids being faulty.
    Cost to repair varies greatly depending on the problem. The controller can be repaired from the front of the dash, if it's something on the heat A/C plenum up under the dash it usually means removing it which is a big job.
  • grinz25grinz25 Posts: 1
    My a/c has not worked since I got the thing used. 500 bucks, no biggie. Now after 3 months driving, my right rear and front left brakes don't release all the way after stopping. Head that is an issue with this model truck. Replaced brake hose on rear brake and fron left, it is not as bad as it was. Heard that a crossover valve is usually the culprit, but after going through these posts I am not so sure. Help please!
  • stamplinstamplin Posts: 1
    edited August 2012
    I currently have a 2001 dodge durango. it has rear and front ac controls however the owner prior to myself cut the rear ac system out. now it is missing a part for the rear controls. The problem I wish to fix however is this... I had to put refrigerant in about 3 weeks ago up on buying the vehicle. the ac worked fine after that. it was cool but not quite cold enough.as of a couple days ago after buying gas I turn the car on and ac was dead. the compressor is working and the hoses are cold. I can turn the dial but nothing happens so i know it's not the resistor. a slow trickle of freezing cold air comes from the vents when the car is running at normal speeds but it doesn't blow out even when the dial is in the off position. could it be the blower motor or is it the switch for the blower motor and how do I diagnos this? also after I get the a c up and running again how will I get the air to be freezing? keep in mind I am a woman so if I can try and keep this not too technical I would greatly appreciate it. also I don't know if it's in connection but my check brakes light started blinking on and off right before I stopped to get gas before all this happened
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