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Ford Windstar - fixing PO171 and PO174



  • bigredrasabigredrasa Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    In the good/bad old days, carburetor icing could cause driveability problems in cold, damp weather. We have had very cold and damp weather in the last month, and I've had the P171 & P174 codes come on twice. After resetting, they stay off for some time. Could ice build up on the MAF Sensor cause the codes? It could explain why they come on only in very cold and damp weather.
  • kc9kpqkc9kpq Posts: 1
    New to this forum.I have a 02 windstar. I replaced the isolator bolts gaskets imrc bushings valve stem seals (bank 2 only) valve cover fuel pressure vac line and pcv + vac line. dorman kit 615-177 and still getting the code for bank 2. I was getting bank 1 and 2 before all this. . Odes any body recommend the DPFE, mine is not the metal one mounted near the fuel rail. it is plastic and mounted with short hoses about midway between the egr valve and radiator. also I wonder if I should reflash the pcm (not really happy about Ford charging 100 dollars to fix thier mistake)

    Thanks in advance
  • OK i had these problems since i bought the piece of [non-permissible content removed] a year ago ! both codes came up when inspected thought i lost papers where i wrote them down but found em ! Was told two sensors were bad and EGR valve ! Problems are bad MPG city maybe 11 MPG surges and kicks when stop at light stalls after idling too long etc... :( I reset the CE light by disconnecting battery van ran far better after that but of course CE light comes back on after about 15 - 20 mins driving ! :cry:

    SAW the last answer and i agree has to be in the exhaust or air intake thingy I did spot crack in housing fixed it , and it didnt close too good ! Also fixed that ! I also presume a vacumm leak some where is the problem ! :confuse:
    SO after i fix or cannot find a vacumm leak or it's not the air filter housing what do i need to replace That MAF thing or The EGR valve and that too ? I get good used parts at yard where you pull it off maybe cost $15 - $35 tops ! IF they don't work then i go good ol pep boys and get the best priced ones ! I need this van to go another year because I make money with it ! It has 198,000 on it right now only major problem i had was starter went kaput when coming out of Home depot LOL Got it started by rocking van and turning key ! BUT next day wouldnt start 2nd time and had to tow it in total cost lifetime starter $340

    Has other wacko problems electrical but somehow they just start working right again ! THIS is MY last FORD product ever ! Had EM all Mercury Lincolns etc .. each one lived up to it's name FIXED OR REPAIRED DAILY back words DRIVER RETURNS ON FOOT ! LOL
  • DIRTY MAF SENSOR fixed my errors. It's easy and cheap, try it first. Buy a can of MAF cleaner, spray it on. Hardest part is loosening the darned gigantic air filter and reconnecting it (this used to be so easy!) Broke 2 fingernails doing this and got my hands dirty. I hate this vehicle!! Simple things are such a pain on it.
  • gman366gman366 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Windstar van with a V-6 engine. I just had my radiator flushed & filled, and the service man found a large quantity of oil in the water. He flushed it , but there is still a lot of oil in the water.
    I had put some radiator flush in the day before. I also had my oil changed the week before in a quick-change place. Could a helper have put oil in the radiator filler tank by mistake?

    #1. What could cause this? My crankcase & trans oil levels are normal.

    #2. What should I do about it?

    #3. Is my oil cooler air or water cooled?
  • So i did and intake manifold gasket, thermostat, battery, egr, 6 injectors, plugs, wires, coil, high flow air filter, pcv, cleaned everything( removed all carbon i could get too), coolant temp sensor. put it all back together and it runs with a bit of a rough idler. rev it up and it runs smooth. at idle and under acceleration(in neutral) under 3000 rpm, it bangs in the exhaust(backfiring). removed the exhaust from manifolds, still did and and shot fire balls. i disconnected number 4 and 6 fuel injector connectors, the banging went away. the vehicle ran nice in neutral(injectors were reading about 12 ohms). i rev the engine up to about 3500 or more and the banging stop and i have crazy power in the power band. so all of this is going on and i have run the vehicle for at least an hour and have started and shutoff the vehicle numerous times, but my MIL STATUS is OFF. Do you think i need to reprogram the PCM or is it possible my timing jumped. when i saw the vehicle it had all kinds of codes and only ran on 4 of 6 cyl. and a noise under heavy accelerations(rattling valves kinda noise). i need to know if i should try and reprogram the pcm or spend 7 hours of my time just to check alignment marks... Thank you for your time
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