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2010 Toyota Camry

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Comments

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Either way, its soft, squeezable. Doesn't sound that normal, but I don't own a Camry!
  • gooddeal2- One dealer tried that auction bs with me also. I just went by Kelly, NADA and Edmunds. I did forgot to mention that when I got the price on the 2010 Camry, it was a done deal....and then the sales manager walked in and started the numbers game, which made no sense at all. It is just a scam they use to jack up the price. He kept trying to get some more $$ out of the deal and told me they were losing money on my Accord trade blah blah.... I told them that we had a agreed price and I was ready to walk if they did not go with it. Thank goodness he gave in and I got the pretty good deal. I also forgot to mention I paid cash on the 2009 Accord and 2010 Camry, so money probably does talk.

    Another thing that bothers me about the 2010 Camry is there are drain holes on both sides of car (at least on mine) somewhere below each door and after a few rain storms there are always dirt trails below the doors. I have never seen this on a car and wonder why they designed it this way? The good thing it remind me to wash the car and water is not storing up wherever it is draining from but too bad the rain gets in that area anyway. Has anyone else noticed this? ( I still love the car...but there are always little things that are worth pointing out.
    Regarding the console between the seats and the crappy tray they stuck in it (I'm about ready to pull it out) My old 98 Accord had a 2 section console. Very nice. Top portion was only a couple of inches thick and then below that was the deep console. Toyota should of copied this.
  • Spongy is a better word for it. Thanks wwest!
  • Thanks. I usually pay cash also. I trade in cars so often that I just walk in...ask for the diff...negotiation for 10 minutes and then either buy the car or walk out. :D
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    Another thing that bothers me about the 2010 Camry is there are drain holes on both sides of car (at least on mine) somewhere below each door and after a few rain storms there are always dirt trails below the doors. I have never seen this on a car and wonder why they designed it this way? The good thing it remind me to wash the car and water is not storing up wherever it is draining from but too bad the rain gets in that area anyway. Has anyone else noticed this? ( I still love the car...but there are always little things that are worth pointing out.

    Yes, my 2007 used to do this - it is normal, but it will get less as the car gets older. I think it is maybe excess rust proofing?? My 2007 does not do this anymore, but my new 2010 now does this, but it is getting less and probably another few months and it will not do it any more.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    I checked. It's the shape of the floorpan. The carpet and padding cover a small depression.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Regarding the console between the seats and the crappy tray they stuck in it (I'm about ready to pull it out) My old 98 Accord had a 2 section console. Very nice. Top portion was only a couple of inches thick and then below that was the deep console. Toyota should of copied this.

    They did -- for the 2002-06 models. I'm not getting rid of mine soon! Two other cost-cutting measures on the '07 and later: hard plastic on the rear face of the front seat backs instead of cloth and 6-way power passenger seat on the XLE instead of 8-way (no more adjustable tilt of the seat cushion).
  • Thanks, I was curious about the older models. Too bad they changed it. Yep, I commented on those plastic seat back pockets instead of cloth earlier. I hardly put anything in mine ( A map and some thin items) for fear of ripping them lose. I guess the old ones were like my 98 Accord. I had umbrella and all kind of goodies in the cloth version. But the Camry LE driver seat is much more comfortable then the Accord. It has plenty of adjustments for me. Since I only kept the 2009 Accord for two weeks, this could be my imagination but when adjusting the seats it felt like the Camry had more front seat legroom even though they have almost exact same legroom according to web sites dimensions. Legroom is very important to (6' 1'') me. No power adjustment for passenger seat. ">
    Camry has power Auto-Up/Down windows on all 4 windows. Accord is just driver and passenger. Not a big deal but convenient. I like to open the rear passenger side window just a little on days when AC is not needed, but I don't know if it the body design or not but there is an awful wind noise that is had to describe when opening that window that is very annoying.
    mcdawgg- Thanks for reply about the drain holes

    They did -- for the 2002-06 models. I'm not getting rid of mine soon! Two other cost-cutting measures on the '07 and later: hard plastic on the rear face of the front seat backs instead of cloth and 6-way power passenger seat on the XLE instead of 8-way (no more adjustable tilt of the seat cushion)-210delray
  • A 269 horsepower car? I thought the CX-7 had 244 horsepower. :confuse:
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    I like to open the rear passenger side window just a little on days when AC is not needed, but I don't know if it the body design or not but there is an awful wind noise that is had to describe when opening that window that is very annoying.

    This is common on a lot of cars these days. Just open one of the front windows slightly, problem solved. I can't remember, but it is something very explainable.
  • Thanks kdhspyder. That makes me feel better.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    In physics, that resonance is called the Helmholtz effect. Some car companies call it a "helicoptering" sound. It's like blowing across the top of an empty beer bottle. The solution is to open a front window; it's most obvious when only one rear window is open.
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    It works great at shutting the kids up.
  • Does anyone know how to turn off the voice navigation menu prompt? I'm talking about the menu that comes up when you press the voice nav button where the voice says all your options? I really only use the "dial by name" feature and am wondering if there is a way to bypass the menu...

    Thanks
    Jason
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    Yes it's simple. Press the voice icon on the steering wheel right away and say your next command.
    Click
    Click
    "dial by name"
  • Hi there. I bought a 4 cyl Camry in October. I have 2300 miles on it. I am noticing the weird shifting too. What's bothering me most is when I let the car slow down without braking the car seems to go back and forth between gears a little. The odometer will show the RPMs going down but then the RPMs go up a little then down again. This is particularly noticeable when I'm coming to a stop. The car seems to slide forward a bit just before the full stop. It's very disconcerting.
    Do you think this "reset the computer" will work? I'm afraid to take it in to the dealer and say this since I don't really understand what it means. I'm also afraid that I will get the blank stare and the "that's the way it's supposed to be" response. I know a guy who works on Camrys. He seems to know them inside out. He loves the old ones - not so much the new ones (all built in the U.S. of A.)- and fixed a problem on my 92 Camry that no one else could figure out. I guess I could ask him about it.
    Advice? Does anyone understand this reset the computer fix - the one that koho had done?
    I love the car otherwise but I'm beginning to be obsessed by the weird shifting. :(
  • I have a Camry I bought in October with about 2200 miles now. I have noticed what you speak of here, but not quite to that extent. My car does down shift and slow down in a hurry when I take my foot off the gas pedal - almost no coasting! The shifts are however very smooth and not jerky - I notice them simply because I'm hyper vigilant about the car's behavior. I did however notice two very hard shifts - when the car was under 1000 miles, and they were both when I accelerated after decelerating. I figured that was the tranny "learning." I would also like to know what is entailed in resetting the computer. Don't know if I need one, but would like to know what it means.
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    It may be more of an update than a reset. The PCM which controls the engine and transmission has a series of tables in it that depending on inputs from various sensors determines what gear to be in, and when to shift to that gear. If a table is out of sequence it can cause shift issues like what you are seeing. Do not take it to a mechanic other than a dealer for this, it will void your warranty if someone messes with the PCM tables(IE Chip, Reprogram, ETC.) The dealer will reprogram the PCM with the latest update if they determine it is the cause of the improper shifting.

    BTW the Computers in a 92 are far far different than a 2010, they completely changed how the computers work and are accessed beginning of 1995. They are all OBDII or maybe even the next generation, it has been that long since I worked on them, and they were all OBDII at that time. You need the proper diagnostic tool to even read ODBII codes, let alone reprogram one. A decent tool can run upwards of $4500 to start, and that doesn't include the modules for each make. This is why I suggest taking it to the dealer first, they will have the proper tools to read the PCM.
  • Hi,

    Got also my 2010 Camry last November and have so far 940 miles on It. I notices It the first time I got with with 12 miles on the odometer. That time was pretty thought for me since was I driving my CX-7 (always in sport manual shifting).
    The move to the Camry made me notice the hesitation. I've learned It from the Mazda where the car will have some hesitation when I slow down pretty fast and using the breaks at the meantime.

    Since I'm a "preventive" driver ; means I always watch the light far away before approaching the intersection and let the car roll instead of using heavily the break (don't work always because some time got surprised with the speed and need to really break). That said, applyed this on the Camry too and noticed a big change in the car behavior. couldn't feel the hard hesitation I had from the beginning (WHEN SLOWING DOWN).

    However there is also hesitation when speeding up from stop and go. You can still feel an hesitation when accelerating (after the traffic lights turn green) and only if you stay below 2 RPM you can see this behavior. I need to "tell the car I really need to go forwards" by pushing on the gas (More than 2 RPM) and then the car goes straight without hesitation. But If I stay below 2 RPM after the "stop and go" the car will automatically shift from 1 ->2 ->3 (may be 3 ->4 since In automatic mode you can't see the gears ) and then hesitate and shifts back from 3 ->2 (may be 4 ->3 ).

    So I don't know If those hesitations are "normal" or may be we Carmy owners don't know how to communicate with our car.

    Please feel free to give It a try and give us feedback here in the forum.

    They say the relationship between you and your car is unique. So if you teach your car how you want him to behave or learn to speak to him then you'll be great partners with the time. And also one think when you are used to your car and give It to some one else for couples days once you get your car back you'll feel that the car drives any way differently and I think that how the car behave with a different driver.
  • acdii - thanks. I will try that.
    My driving sounds like yours, corolla e11. I too have begun to go up to stops faster then use the brakes. I don't think, however, that we should be changing our behavior to compensate for something strange happening when the gears shift down. Maybe it's better anyway to brake instead of letting the car slow down. Less strain on the transmission which obviously costs more to fix/replace than the brakes. I think I heard the Car Guys tell this to someone. Can't remember for sure. Opinions on the best way - if there is one - to approach stops? To brake or not to brake - that is the question. Well, obviously braking will be necessary eventually. :)
    This "car needs to learn the way you drive" thing that dealers tell you sounds fishy to me. I've been told this twice already. Maybe it is.
    I've gotten use to how to accelerate from stops to avoid the hesitation so this doesn't bother me anymore. I test drove a used 07 Lexus before I bought the Camry and it did the same hesitation thing.
    I've had nothing but positive experiences with my 92 Camry. It still runs like a dream and the seats are really comfortable. The air conditiong is really cold when ou need it to be. Personally, I think Camrys are the quietest and most comfortable midsize car on the road. I still really like my new one. The Accord seats were not comfortable and they are way noisier on the road.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Opinions on the best way - if there is one - to approach stops?

    I'd say coast as much as possible, do not brake until the end, while obviously glancing at your rearview mirror. What Click and Clack were talking about is for manual transmissions -- use the brakes rather than downshifting for complete stops. Similarly, don't manually downshift an automatic for stops; select lower gears only for descending long, steep grades.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    What you are undoubtedly experiencing is the Fuel-Cut procedure to conserve fuel. when you release the throttle to coast down to a lower speed then this fuel cut technique comes into play. With no fuel supplied, NONE, the engine would undoubtedly stall were the transaxle not downshifted, again and again, sequentially, so that road friction "drives" the engine(***). Then once you are fairly close to a full stop the transaxles is upshifted and fuel flow is restored.

    "..slide forward a bit.."

    This latter mode is the one that causes you to think the brakes have been released slightly just prior to coming to a full stop if you happen to be lightly braking during coastdown.

    With the current day use of 6(9) speed transaxles the fuel cut procedure is a lot more noticeable.

    *** Catch 22 involved here requiring CAREFUL, "just so", downshifting, just enough to prevent the engine from stalling but not so much as to be a HAZARD due to engine compression brakiing.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "...almost no coasting..."

    6 cylinder vs 4..??
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..if those hesitations are "normal".."

    Not "normal", but definitely SOP.

    Google for:

    wwest abolition hesitation dfg

    Any driver unique driving style/habits/types that are learned are ERASED each and every time you restart the engine.
  • Thanks, wwest.
    What is SOP? :confuse:
    I googled what you suggested and it looks like it's to a Lexus forum. I'm not sure what I'd be looking for there or what info I should see.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Standard operating procedure, that is, "the way things are done these days."

    Mr. West is big on abbreviations: FE = fuel economy, WOT = wide open throttle.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Sorry, the google search line should have been

    wwest abolition hesitation -dfg

    Yes, Lexus and Toyota share, mostly, the same transaxle designs therefore both have the 1-2 second downshift "re-acceleration" delay/hesitation. Design was changed in '98 in order to built a more robust transaxle for the RX300 and at the same time increase FE substantially. But the new design had an unforeseen flaw for which Toyota has not yet been able to overcome.
  • petras2petras2 Posts: 104
    Let me get this straight..if what you're saying re total fuel cut is true, how is the power steering working since it is a hydraulic system..seems like a safety issue
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    wwest,

    Can you please post some supporting documentation references. I'd like to read up on this concept, and have never read anything about what you have described, including the factory service manual. My 2007 exhibits none of those symptoms.

    I'd like to read those engineering specs, or operational descriptions.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    When the fuel is completely cut the engine/transaxle ECU keeps the transaxle downshifted/downshifting just enough that the engine still turns over at something close to, or above, idle. So the power stearing pump, alternator, water pump, A/C compressor, etc, are still "powered", but now via drive wheel traction with the roadbed.
This discussion has been closed.