Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2010 Toyota Camry



  • gtgtcobragtgtcobra Posts: 259
    I ain't going to worry about it. I will be driving my leased 2010 Camry LE for the next 3 years. So far, I like the car a lot. It drives very smooth and it's very quiet on the road. When my lease is up I am going to give it back to Toyota and lease another one. Preferably a newer 7th generation hybrid Camry. :)
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,407
    I am going to chime in briefly about the acceleration and it is not really off topic as it does effect the 2010 Camry.

    Historically brakes have been way stronger than engines - didn't matter what the engine did, you hit the brakes and you would stop.

    Now you have family sedans pushing 300 hp, and almost exclusively with an automatic transmission. With a stick shift you hit the brakes and the slower you go the slower the engine is turning so it loses hp as you slow down even if it is fighting you. With an AT the car will downshift and regain revs so it is at full strength.

    Another issue is that brakes fade. Any car can stop more powerfully than it can accelerate if the brakes are cool. But that may not be the case especially as it may take a while to go into a full panic stop.

    Example - your engine starts to race so you instantly slam on the brakes full force, the car fights you and downshifts to gain more power, but you bring it to a stop no problem.

    Example 2 - the car starts to race, and you hesitate for a few seconds and gradually push to brake and try to figure out what is happening (brakes heat up a little). This does not seem to do much, but you don't want to slam to a stop in the middle of the highway so you just give a little more pressure (brakes heat up more). You slow a little, but the car shifts down to 4th and gets more power so it keeps accelerating. At this point you are very concerned and apply firm pressure to the brakes, but not yet a full panic stop (brakes are getting really hot) again the car starts to slow, but you have been riding the brakes for long enough that they are beginning to fade and the car shifts down to third for even more power. Now things could get out of hand if you do not apply maximum braking power, and make some good quick decisions.

    Of course with the safer transmission type ;) (an MT) you can fix the situation right away without taking either hand off of the wheel - just push in the clutch.

    One more reason to go old school and row your own. :shades:

    Thank goodness the 2010 Camry still offers the choice. I hope they continue to for a long time.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Of course with the safer transmission type (an MT) you can fix the situation right away without taking either hand off of the wheel - just push in the clutch.

    One more reason to go old school and row your own.

    Its just as easy to put the auto into neutral :shades: . Maybe not easy to remember to do it though if your car is accelerating into traffic on its own power.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,407
    That is true, but I imagine many would be reluctant to do so at speed because if you "miss" the next gear is R, and you would need to take one hand off of the wheel an probably your eyes off the road to make sure you get it right. Even though many new transmissions don't let you do stupid things like shift into R or P at speed.
  • hi everyone,i need some advice on what kind of gas should i put in my 2010 camry se,(regular,plus or premium???) i''l be happy to get some advices please the reason that im asking about the kind of gas is because i drive on the highway 1 1\2 hours to go to work and 1 1\2 hour to go back home and i been putting regular gas but full thank dont even last a week , i love this car runs great but my concern is i been wasting money in gas just like my old car i bought this car for saving money on gas please need help thank you so much. :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    regular, cheapest you can find

    You're complaining that you can't drive 15 hours on a tank of gas? How many miles is that trip? Stop and go, or highway?
  • TORRANCE, Calif., January 21, 2010 -- Toyota Motor Sales (TMS), U.S.A. .aspx

    There's a lot of information on this site but nowhere can I find an official announcement about the 10K miles Oil Change Interval on 2010 cars.
  • oparroparr Posts: 61
    I read the advice here and elsewhere on the "stuck pedal" scenario and have one question... Can't you place the transmission in neutral at any speed? And if so, why not a "and if you have time to think then you may also place the transmission in neutral to allow for swifter braking"...Surely I must be missing something.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    What mileage are you getting? I have to fill up every 4th day, and I only drive 45 mintues each way. I'm getting 29-30 MPG though. Quite good for 70 MPH in a 14 year old car, I'd say. You can't make assumptions before you make those calculations.

    Fill up, and reset your trip meter.
    At your next fill up, divide the gallons it took to refill vs miles driven. For example, if you drove 320 miles and the fillup took 16 gallons, you got 20 MPG.
  • it's about 75 miles a day back and forth so im not sure if it will help if i change it to premium gas
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Except for the park position, and I'm not even sure about that, there is no mechanical coupling between the "shifter" and the transaxle. Only switches "watched" by the engine/transaxle ECU control firmware, firmware which in the end may be found to be the causative factor.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    No idea, because we dont know what your actual MPG is. Regular should be at least as efficient as premium in a car designed to run on regular.
  • I have 2010 Camry LX 4 cylinder. I now have 4,500 miles on it so I figure it is broken in. I usually drive normal speeds but do find myself driving faster at times because the car drives so darn smooth. Lately I have been driving slower and testing my mpg. I think I have only gotten over 30 mpg once since owning the car. I am very disappointed in this. I called the dealer and they blamed it my area using a lot of ethanol. I went on a trip out of my area and got the same results so if that is the case then all gas pumps must be using a lot of ethanol. The 97 Accord that I just sold always got at least 30 mpg and 32 mpg often.
    I just checked the tire pressure hoping they might be low and this would be the reason for the crappy mileage but the tires are still at 34 psi. I double checked with dealer and Michelin and they agreed to keep tires at what it says on the plate inside the door. Michelin also said the tires that came with my car don't have a regular warranty and I should expect around 20,000 miles out of them. I guess once I get some better tires down the road that the mileage ''may'' increase but the better gas mileage was one of the selling points of me buying the car.
    This question is for 2010 Camry 4 cylinder owners.
    What is your tire pressure?
    Driving habits?
    Best gas mileage so far?
    Synthetic oil? ( Dealer told me the synthetic oil would give better gas mileage)
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    Toyota on PriusChat said that the official notifications would be going out in early Feb along with a coupon for one free oil change. Don't worry, it'll happen all in good time. Soon your dealer will get the notification and he will admit it to his customers. If not go to another dealer. Life is easy if you don't inject unnecessary stress into it.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    Now you have family sedans pushing 300 hp, and almost exclusively with an automatic transmission. With a stick shift you hit the brakes and the slower you go the slower the engine is turning so it loses hp as you slow down even if it is fighting you. With an AT the car will downshift and regain revs so it is at full strength.

    You bring up a good point here. Many of us grew up learning to drive on a manual tranny. Whenever a panic situation occured the first thing you did was CLUTCH and BRAKE.

    Disconnet the wheels from the powertrain.

    Now that basic safety movement has been lost for tens of millions of drivers. It has to be relearned.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    Yes you can shift to Neutral at any speed. There is a rev-limiter in all modern vehicles, at least all Toyota ATs and CVTs. For my own information I've done it at 35 mph and 50 mph and 70 mph in my 05 Prius and my wife's 04 Highlander.

    No problem, Just Do It.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    In winter this subject always comes up. In typical N American winters you should expect to lose 10-20% off your 'normal' fuel economy; winter gas has fewer BTUs, the weather is worse normally, the roads are often slicker meaning less traction and the engine has to work more to keep you warm.

    I'd expect to get 28-30 mpg in winter and 31-34 mpg in summer.

    Try not to stop...EVER!! Stopping is one of the worst things you can do when it comes to fuel usage. It takes a lot more fuel to raise the sleeping beast from rest than it does to cruise slowly up to a light or traffic slowdown then accelerate smoothly up again.

    My own experience in a 2.5L 2010 XLE for 1000 mi in Oct, in mild weather, with good traction and almost zero stops on my 75 mi 1-way commute was that I was averaging 38-41 mpg at 61 mph.

    But if I hit a slowdown and had to brake then speed up again the FE rating immediately hit the average and drove it down to the low 30 mpg range. Then back on the steady highway cruise it built back up again until the average for the whole 1000 miles was 36 mpg.

    No City driving at all.
    Very few stops - if any
    Very boring commute-type drive
    Very moderate speed
    Very good weather
    Long trip each way.

    These conditions are just about perfect for any vehicle. In my 05 Prius on this trip I usually average 50 mpg day after day after day after day after day over 140,000 miles.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..Many of us grew up..."

    I think you might mean...

    Many of us in the 50+ age group.

    By the early sixtires it was hard to find a new car, "passenger" car, with a manual transmission. Then as FWD began to take hold in the seventies the deal was sealed.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "...historically brakes have been..."

    Not in all situations. Once the car is moving at hwy speeds the advantage has historically gone over to the engine.....inertia/momentum tips the scales.

    Or the historical aspect might relate to FWD vs RWD. With "historical" RWD the front brakes are much more likely to have "control" than with a FWD wherein the engine is in direct competition with the primary, HEAVY duty, front wheel braking resource.
  • oparroparr Posts: 61
    I tried it at around 60 MPH coming home from work. Beats me why shifting to neutral isn't a suggestion in their "stuck pedal" advice. I even practiced the scenario a few times so it may become a reflex if the situation ever arises. The "stepped" guide even prevents you from heading into reverse.
Sign In or Register to comment.