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Nissan Armada Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tzanghitzanghi Posts: 19
    The still have not been able to identify the problem. It is getting harder and harder to jump the vehicle every day. They informed me today that although I only just hit 28,000 miles they will not make any repairs under warranty. I did not choose the extended warranty. Paying $600.00 a month was enough!!!!

    I found out that there is a recall on my vehicle. It is on the body control module. I asked them if I could bring the vehicle in and have the body control module changed out and see if that fixes my charging problem. The repsonse was, no!! I need to have the vehicle looked over at my expense, and they will then decide if the module is the culprit of the dying battery problem. I am so angry, I shot off an email to Nissan USA.

    Now they want me to have it towed (also at my expense) there and they want to look at it.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    28k is under 36k which is what the BtoB covers. I don't see how it would not be covered. Perhaps you should try a different dealer?

    -mike
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    in to the dealer I purchased from. Was told that Nissan authorizes towing to the closest dealer and not necessarily the one you purchased from for warranty repairs. I thought that rather interesting especially when it required replacing a trans.

    Agreed tzanghi it is time to look for another dealer. Seems the one you're with is into blowing smoke.
  • tzanghitzanghi Posts: 19
    They told me that the warranty is 36 months or 36K, which ever comes first. I am about to drive this car off of a cliff. I have received a response from Nissan that someone will be contacting me, meanwhile I have to start the car before I go to bed and let it run for 30 minutes and do the same when I get up in the morning to ensure it starts. Great, for $600 a month!!!!

    I don't understane why they won't just replace the body control module and then take it from there. From what I understand the BCM control everything inside the vehicle.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    Not only that, it's also quite possible that the body controller is what is causing the draining of the battery. I had a Grand Cherokee about 10 years ago that had the exact problem.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    BCM, it has to be first confirmed by a technician that it is faulty. They certainly won't go on a trial and error basis and replace parts nor the word of a customer. Unfortunate but that's how most warranty programs work.

    A battery drain will require a good deal of time to diagnose. Again that's something a dealer usually will not do as the time to diagnose will not be fully paid by Nissan and more than likely cause the dealer to lose money.

    A good place to start is to file a complaint with the BBB online against Nissan and/or the dealership since no one seems to be willing to help. The BBB is good a clearing the red tape and BS that both Nissan and the dealer might be giving you. The results and response are quick as I've pursued this course of action before.
  • tzanghitzanghi Posts: 19
    They told me that they ran my VIN# and there is a recall on the BCM. Also, when it was on the charger yesterday, there was a clicking noise coming from underneath the dash, near the brake pedal. The lights were flashing on and off and that was without they key in the ignition.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Seems like you're gaining headway with your problem.

    Good luck.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    in to the dealer I purchased from. Was told that Nissan authorizes towing to the closest dealer and not necessarily the one you purchased from for warranty repairs. I thought that rather interesting especially when it required replacing a trans.

    That is pretty much the same for all warranties from all auto-makers. They want to limit their towing costs and at the same time get you back on the road as soon as possible, towing to the orginal dealer could be far from where you are located and broken down.

    -mike
  • gbajagbaja Posts: 13
    guys,
    i have a 2004 armada and i learned that they increase the warranty on the brake rotor and pads (does caliper included?).....how true, can anybody help!
  • Yea, but for only 3 years from the original date of purchase no matter the mileage. Depending on when you got it, you may or may not be covered. It only covers brakes and rotors, parts and labor. The caliper if defective, would have to be within the 3/36K miles warranty.
  • tt30tt30 Posts: 31
    >> Yea, but for only 3 years from the original date of purchase no matter the mileage.<<

    Well, it's the standard Nissan warranty - isn't it?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Rotors and pads are not part of most factory warranties.

    -mike
  • Exactly. I think rotors and pads are typically covered for only the first 12 months.
  • Hello,

    I'm having trouble with my 2006 Nissan Armada. It has under 16,500 miles on it and it keeps dying on me, while I'm driving it. I have gotten it towed five times, taken it to two different delearships, and called Nissan North America, all to no avail. Everyone says that they can't duplicate the problem and that everything checks out fine. However, after driving it a couple days, it just stops again. I've paid for the towing and car rentals, and I'm running out of $$ and patience. But no one seems to help. Any ideas or suggestions would be great.

    Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    When an engine goes kaput there are usually codes that are triggered during the incident. So are you saying that no codes are triggered? That the dealer can't find the codes? Or that they are ignoring the codes and telling you they can't find anything wrong?
  • They are telling me that there are no codes coming up. That everything registers fine.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Do you have a CEL after the incident? Generally you SHOULD have one after an incident like that. Try a different dealer.

    -mike
  • Sometimes, not always. All the service lights generally turn on. I've already taken it to two different dealers.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    So they are saying that there is no info from the Check Engine Light? The CEL should be giving them all the info they need to at least start to diagnose the problem.

    -mike
  • Yep, They said they do not get any codes at all and to keep bringing it in every time it stalls. They also said that it would probably have to get worse before they find something.
  • My recommendation is just a shot in the dark, but you have nothing to lose. The next time it happens wiggle your key in your ignition switch to see if the vehicle will restart. Sometimes the ignition switch goes bad, especially if you have a ton of junk hanging on your keychain. Also, the keys are chipped. Try a different key. Hopefully the trouble isn't in your steering column with whatever it is that reads the chip in the key as that is hard to diagnose.

    Honestly though, it could be a ton of things and I would not want to be in your position as the stalling could get you killed.
  • Depending on how far and how long you are driving between shut offs, it could be a problem with your anti theft unit and key.

    My 2004 did the same thing in the first week. The dealer never programed the fob to the vehicle. So it could be a problem with the key or the antitheft box.

    Good luck. I hope your dealers are better than mine.
  • ginnymginnym Posts: 1
    Hey
    I hate hear that you are having such problems. I have spent several years under the hood of vehicles and this problem sounds simple. When does it shut off? Is it at a red light or stop sign or when you are going real slow? If so have them test you alternator, it could be it is bad or going bad and it is not keeping your battery charged so the vehicle shuts down. They should have already checked this but if I know dealership service departments they have not. If they give you and grief just find a local garage any ask them to check the alternator. I wish you were close by I would love to help.
  • Hello,
    I recently bought a 2005 Nissan Armada SE, 45,000 miles. The front AC and the first row floor AC work perfectly. The rear air conditioner has no air flow. I checked and re checked the AC button functionality. I replaced all the fuses pertaining the to HVAC and blower circuits. Nothing has worked. Before going to nissan and paying out my nose...does anyone have any idea how to fix this? Please respond! Can you email me also at gabriel.gengler@gmail.com?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Why do you have to go to Nissan and pay through your nose? You could go to a local mechanic and do the same.... ;)

    Have you checked the circuit with a tester to see if power is getting to the unit? Sounds like a blown motor but to guess at something like this without testing a few things is like shooting a shotgun in the dark.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    There are several ways to operate the AC in the 2nd Row. My guess is that it's the buttons that are the issue.

    -mike
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    The several ways that you mentioned. Are they explained in the owners manual or do you need the factory repair manual? Just curious...
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    They should be in the regular manual. For instance if you have it on "R" for the fan then you have to control it from the rear controls. If the rear is "on" but the front control for the rear is "off" then it won't work. Also if you have heat on it only comes out the floor vents. If you have AC on it only comes out the top vents. You can't have hot air come from the top and can't have cold air from the bottom.

    -mike
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    That's exactly how my Denali's rear controls work. If the main control in the front is "OFF" the rear controls will not work. This of course is all explained in the owner's manual.
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