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Nissan Armada Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rshershe Posts: 236
    I think I am going to be parting company with my Armada.. I haven't had any recent problems until this week. The rear hatch motor failed and had that replaced on Monday. Today I am driving around (luckily at low speed) and the brakes fail. I go to step on the brakes and it felt like the anti-locks were kicking in and the brake light comes on. It rolled out into the intersection before it finally stopped. I limped it along to the dealership (with my left foot ready on the emergency brake), about a mile and everytime I would go to hit the brakes the front end would judder as if the anti-locks were kicking in. Funny enough I shut it off at the dealership and when we go to restart the problem is gone. The service tech runs a scanner on it and an ABS code comes up to reprogram the ABS. I can't imagine what would have happened with a high speed stop. My wife will no longer drive it and doesn't want the kids in it either, so it is pretty much useless to me. Trying to decide what to get next.
  • jwelch101jwelch101 Posts: 1
    This sounds exactly like the problem I have on my 05 Armada, with 30,000+ miles on it, and the clicking just started about 1000 miles ago. I think the shipping material or plastic plug explanations are not very good guesses. The clicks are faster than once per revolution of the wheel. There have been replies that reference a CV joint - Have you found out what is causing it yet? Thanks - :confuse:
  • :( My problem is when it's very cold out and it has been sitting, as soon as I start driving I can count on it going off. I just blow it off, it's the weather.
  • I have been wanting to get a chip for my 05 Armada (amongst other things - new air intake, etc.). Any advise on what would be the better thing to go for? There seems to be a wide dearth of avaliable products out there.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    When it's cold out your tire pressure drops. You SHOULD heed it's warning and put more air in. IIRC for every 8 degrees lower you lose 1 psi.

    -mike
  • No, they said that the factory put Altima/maxima tire sensors instead of titan/armada ones that what was causing the problem. Now the problem that I'm having it's that I was on vacation and I started the truck and it died, then I start again and it died, I had roadside assistance jump start it and it died again, so they towed it 120 miles to my house and it right now on the dealership getting it checked out, no loaner! I'm talking to Nissan to get it exchanged for another one, I'm very disappointed, I love my Armada but it's not worth the trouble and stress. :sick:
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Bad TP sensors and it not starting 1x is not a great deal of problems actually. You'll never get it exchanged if those are the only problems.

    -mike
  • lorihalllorihall Posts: 3
    I have a power hatch on my SUV. The other day it closed on me while I was unloading my stuff. when the hatch touched me it kept on closing until it broke. I was trapped. I am not sure why it finally broke if it was because of me reacting and fighting the door or what. It fractured my back. Has anyone had the hatch close on them and the sensor did not work correctly? Nissan is covering all parts except the shock which I have to pay $61.00. If this would have been my 2 year old child it would have killed her. The nissan dealer does not know why this happened. I get my car back next week. I know this will happen again.
  • thanks... I didn't mean to seem flippant, I always will put air in it, but I meant that it never fails to happen. anyway, sometimes a little less pressure seems to help with the traction in crappy weather, terrain.
  • aaintnaaintn Posts: 1
    Recently my rear hatch door and seat adjustments stopped working on my Nissan Armada LE 2005. I have checked the fuses and all are fine. Any ideas to check before taking to the dealer?

    Thanks
  • rshershe Posts: 236
    My rear hatch gave up the ghost 2 months ago.. The arm had broken off from the motor. Thank God for extended warranties. In regards to the power seats, mine have intermittantly stopped working from the day I got it, but of course they work fine when I have it at the dealer. It seems like they reset and start working again, if the vehicle gets shut off ..
  • kgswankgswan Posts: 1
    05 ARMADA SUDDENLY LOST POWER, COULD ONLY DRIVE 20 MPH... SO I PULLED OVER AND SHUT IT OFF AND FOUND THAT THE BATTERY WAS DEAD, ONCE I GOT IT HOME I CHARGED THE BATTERY OVERNIGHT AND HAD NO PROBLEMS UNTIL FIVE DAYS LATER WHEN THE SAME THING HAPPENED, SO I REPLACED THE BATTERY AND WIFE WENT TO WORK....27 MILES LATER SAME THING HAPPENED, ELECTRICAL GAGE IS SHOWING LOW OUTPUT BUT NO TROUBLE LIGHTS ARE COMING ON. HAS ANYONE HAD ANY PROBLEMS LIKE THIS?
  • Only 3,500 miles on my Armada. I have noticed that when I turn my AC on and after a couple min. my AC is not as cold as I thought it should be. A few wks back I have received a letter from Nissan Corp. stated that they have encounter an AC problem with the SUV and was told to bring to the dealer and have it repair. Anyone out there have simliar problem with the AC not being cold rather just cool???
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like a bad alternator, have it repaired under warranty if you are still under warranty.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like they found the problem, bring it into your dealer in they should fix it up for yah.

    -mike
  • rafarafa Posts: 35
    hey we have a 2005 nissan armada se that we love we wanted to know if anybody knows how to removed the rear cross bar from roof rack because we have an older house and it scrapes with our garage please help us thank you
  • tzanghitzanghi Posts: 19
    I replaced my battery in my 2004 Armada. 2 days later, it will not start. I had a diagnostic run and they found no problem. Dead again this morning....Will not even turn over unless jumped. Help!! Only have 27,000 miles on vehicle. I have already suffered through the brake problem with the dealer and am not happy at the thought of having to go back there and fight for help.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    Bring it back again and tell them what happened. They will figure it out, they just need to dig a little bit deeper. No doubt it's either a charging system problem and some electrical device, switch or short is draining the battery. A diagnostic scan would not neccesarily reveal all types of electrical problems.
  • tzanghitzanghi Posts: 19
    I have a 2004 Armada LE. When the car was about 18 months old I started having the brake judders, brake light and ABS light going on and a severe steering wheel shake.

    I took it to the dealer who said I needed an adjustment. That took care of it for a while. Vehicle had less than 12,000 miles on it. Problem came back with greater intensity. Had another "adjustment". Fast forward to March 2007. Spoke with a neighbor who had exact same vehicle and was inquiring about problem. He informed me that it was a problem and that I should take it back to where I purchased it. He said they are replacing the brakes free of charge. I contacted my dealer who acted like they had never heard of the problem. I dropped the car off and they later called me to say my brakes were shot and that it was going to cost $1,100.00 for new brakes. I declined.....
    My husband tried to work with the dealer and they would not budge. Of course, it was out of the 12,000 mile warranty. We decided to try another dealership but before that happened I went out to do a short errand and the car would not go into reverse. I gave it a little gas and the brake pad fell off while backing out of my driveway with my 2 kids in the car. It scared the heck out of me. Since this was a Friday afternoon on a holiday weekend, I could not get the car into the dealership until late the next week. I called a friend of mine who is a mechanic, and he came over and said he could do the brakes for $200.00. He felt that they gave me the runaround, until the brakes were acrually worn. Turned out, when he went to replace the front passanger brake,he found the caliper leaking brake fluid. It ended up costing me $700.00 ($500 for the caliper). Bought the car in Mar 2004 but only has 27,900 miles on it.

    Now it seems that I have a charging problem.....
  • tzanghitzanghi Posts: 19
    I had a local shop run a more thorough diagnostic and they found a parasitic drawl coming from one of the computers. I called a different dealership than I have used in the past and they want to tow it in. I am worried about what they are going to find and if the warranty will cover it.
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