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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Undercarriage Rust

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  • My wife & I took a trip to Niagara Falls from Milford Pa when our brake line snapped. I thought that since we where far from home that it would be better to spend the extra money & take our truck to the dealer "Very big MISTAKE" We took our truck to David Chevrolet where we were showed on the lift how much of a rust problem we had, after 2 hrs of waiting we were told that we were looking at $1600.00 of repairs" back calipers & brake lines" to get the truck back on the road.The next day our truck was all ready with $900.00 of our bill was for labor, when we left we still had low to the floor braking. 2 weeks later after having the same problem I called to see if we could go to our local dealer to bleed our brakes. Upon inspection we were told that we had another "at least" $1700.00 of repairs to fix brake lines,front calipers etc, & was told that I was ripped off at David Chevrolet "I paid 8hrs of labor for the line repair when the rest of my lines were still rusted & that they would had replaced my entire lines in 6hrs, also we paid for 25 ft of brake line & only 6 ft were used" The next day I called GM to report the problem, was then told that they would get back to me in 48hrs, a week later I called, left a message, the following day I got a return call, then was told that it's a maintenance issue & that there was nothing further they would do. So not only do we have all the rust problems, we also got ripped off at David Chevrolet!
  • The ONLY thing GM did right was do split the brakes into 2 zones, front and back – at least on my 2001 2500 HD. That way, when it pops (and it will, way too early) you at least have a chance to stop. GM used unprotected steel lines, meaning they ARE NOT designed for states that use any road salt. I don’t agree with no recall on this, but the owner’s manual should, at a minimum, offer the lifesaving owners warning: “cover all brake lines with rust inhibitor before exposing to the elements, or drive at your own risk.” In my humble opinion, they knew this and said nothing, sentencing some people to die, for what? Profits – a few pennies more on the initial lines, and lots of $$$ ($1600 in your case) for replacement. I replace all my brake lines last year (truck still in the low 40K miles). I am lucky enough to have a friend that knew what he was doing. A couple hundred dollars in parts. So, screw you GM, you missed out on my $1600. By the way. They do make brake lines that inhibit rust for a few pennies more. Make sure your replacements are the good stuff. My advice: if you’re reading this and you own an older GM, start planning for a total brake line replacement, and just do it now and get it over with. By the way, sorry to hear about your problem. If you can make it home (does your rear zone still work? You could drive back roads slowly), you can probably find a local garage, not affiliated with a dealer, that would love to do the job for under $1000 – even $800. Even the dealer doesn't keep special brake lines in stock. All the garages buy brake lines at your local auto parts store. From there, it’s just a matter of taking the old ones off, and bending new ones as close as you can to the old ones. Oh, and don’t forget to replace the hose lines at each wheel. The little devils at GM made those with a 2 inch section of unprotected steel where they mount to the calipers. That’s rusting off also. And is as much of a pop hazard as your brake lines. Your calipers may look bad, but that’s a big hunk of metal. You’re probably fine to reusing those for another 20 to 40K miles. Good luck.
  • I was a little quick on my first rant (post 226). I just fully reread your post (225). That stinks. I'd be tempted to take GM to small claims court for letting dealers steel form customers. $1600 should have more that replaced all your brake lines and hoses and calipers. And the 2nd $1700 couldn't have reused any of the first job? It sounded like the first job should have been almost half done (more lines are used on the front than back). Small claims court doesn't cost a lot of $$$, and if you drag it out (first GM, then David Chevrolet, then your local dealer), that will make them spend money defending themselves. They might settle. I'd like to see the 3 of them defending $3300 for a $1000 brake job. Start with an estimate from a local garage, before calling. Stay pissed off, don't take no for an answer, and keep going up the management chain (your local dealer, the regional franchise manager, corporate sales management. Let them know you are now a marketing terrorist (that is a term I heard in business school: one who spends all efforts on anti marketing activities, getting the word out about a bad product and/or service). Work with the Better Business Bureau and file a complaint. All I can say about GM: never more.
  • do you park your truck in a heated garage in the winter?
  • I have a 2006 2500 duramax and the cross members on the bed had rusted
    out that is the only thing on my truck is rusted it had 68000 mil on it when
    i seen it i called gm and they gave me a case number and came to look at it
    they offered me a $3000 rebate on a new one i said no so i was thanking of fixing it my self and filming it with my case number and the mans name at gm on cardboard and tell my story. my truck cost around $ 50000 new.
  • WHEN I PURCHASED MY 2003 GM TRUCK, I ASKED ABOUT HAVING RUST PROOFING FOR THE TRUCK. THE GM DEALER SAID IF I HAD IT RUST PROOFED IT WOULD VOID MY WARRANTY. WISH I HAD. THIS CRAP WITH THE BREAK LINES AND UNDERCARRIAGE RUSTING OUT AND FAILING IS UNACCEPTABLE. I'VE LIVED IN NEW ENGLAND MY WHOLE LIFE AND NEVER HAD A VEHICLES' BRAKES FAIL OR RUST THROUGH LIKE THIS '03 GM. STARTING WITH A '66 CHEVY PICKUP I BOUGHT IN 1978 AND THE UNDERCARRIAGE WOULD HAVE BEEN CONSIDERED PRISTINE COMPARED TO MY 2003 GM. ALL MY OTHER VEHICLES NEVER CAME CLOSE TO WHAT IS GOING ON WITH THIS '03 GM. WE DIDN'T GET A WARNING FROM GM THAT IT WAS POSSIBLE TO HAVE BRAKE FAILURE DUE TO GM BEING CHEAP S.O.B.'S. I WOULD HAVE BROUGHT MY TRUCK IN IMMEDIATELY. WE'RE STILL OWED THAT SO OTHERS DON'T HAVE TO FIND OUT LIKE THE MAJORITY OF US HAVE. THE MOST IMPORTANT PART ON YOUR VEHICLE IS BRAKES, HELLO STAINLESS STEEL, IT WOULDN'T ADD THAT MUCH COST TO DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. AFTERMARKET STAINLESS KITS ARE BETWEEN $300 AND $400, IMAGINE GM'S BUYING POWER IF THEY ARE TO LAZY TO DO IT THEMSELVES. MY DAUGHTERS WERE WITH ME BOTH TIMES MY BRAKES BLEW OUT, THANKFULLY NOBODY WAS HURT, JUST NEEDED UNDERWEAR CHANGES. I'M IN THE MIDDLE OF PUTTING SOMETHING TOGETHER FOR A NEWS STATION "HELP ME" TYPE SECTION. PEOPLE NEED TO BE INFORMED OF THE DANGER. PEOPLE ARE LOOSING THEIR BRAKES DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY DOING SEVENTY MPH AND ALL OF A SUDDEN THEY NEED TO STOP. ADD A BOAT, LOADED TRAILER OR CAMPER TO THAT AND IT TURNS INTO A DOUBLE NIGHTMARE. GM IS PLAYING RUSSIAN ROULETTE WITH THEIR CUSTOMERS LIVES. I'M GOING TO A GM DEALER TO SEE WHAT THEY WILL GIVE ME FOR A TRADE-IN AND WHEN I LEAVE, THERE WILL BE BIG FLAKES OF RUST WERE MY TRUCK WAS PARKED. MONTHLY YOU CAN SEE RUST CONSUME MY TRUCK MORE. GM YOU'RE FAILING US. THANKS, JUST VENTING
  • Try using some Amsoil HD Metal Protector spray. I coated the underside of my 2002 Silverado after I bought it. I sprayed it on all the brake lines and all other components under the body. This stuff is GREAT. It dries to a wax like state and remains flexable, unlike the "rubberized" undercoating in a spray can. This product is top notch and works better than anything else I have ever seen or used. It costs about 7 bucks a can and goes a long way. As of this date I have ZERO corrosion anywhere on my truck. Note, I am in no way an Amsoil dealer so I am not trying to sell this product to anyone. If you want the best protection out there, then give this stuff a try. You will not be disappointed with it. The underside of my truck with 123,000 plus miles still looks new. It really is unbelievable stuff.
  • In the over 30 years I have been plowing snow in Maryland, I have owned several trucks which I purchased new. I have owned a 1985 Ford F250 4X4, 1986 F350 4x2 Stakebody, 1995 Ford F250 4X4 and a 1997 Dodge Ram 2500HD 4X4. The last truck I purchased new was a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4. All of the trucks have had some issues with rust, however the Silverado has by far been the worst. Just about every part of the undercarriage and frame is affected. I have replace front and rear brake lines, steering pump and lines, brake calipers and many other parts. I washed this truck (top and underneath) as soon as possible after every storm (I gave this truck more care than any of the previous trucks). The problems started at around 5 years, 50,000 miles. The truck currently has about 80,000 miles on it. The interior looks almost new, the body sheet metal and paint are in excellent condition. I gave up plowing snow in 2012 because the cost of maintenance and repair on the truck was too much and I didn't want to buy another truck. I had the front brake lines replaced at that time and parked the truck. Recently, I started the truck, as I was going to sell it. It started, but when I attempted to move it the rear brake lines broke again. Best of all, the driveshaft broke in half - it had rusted through. I have had several different mechanics work on the truck through the years and all were amazed at the amount of rust on the truck. I have always been a GM person ( I still own a 1993 GMC Sierra 1500 4X2 and a 2000 GMC Savanna Box Truck), but I will never purchase another Chevy or GMC. When these two are done, that's it. I realize that not everyone has the same experience, but I just wanted to share mine.

  • makakilomakakilo Posts: 1

    Glad I found this forum. Dealers had me on a guilt trip, which I truly felt bad about. The usual story here, 2005 Silverado HD2500 Duromax, loaded, Tow, snow plowing packages. As of January 29, 2014, this 2005 has only 20,115 miles. Bought it new, garaged 9 months of the year, never on snow, tow a single horse 50 miles once a week during summer show season. Yes, the rust...2 dealerships admonished me for abusing the truck by parking on grass during the horse shows. At 10,459 miles replaced all brake lines, all rotors and pads, and steering shaft and shocks, but warned of a rotted arm shaft pocket.. No warranty..."neglect" cited. But, more, at 13,007 replaced all break lines and front and rear calipers..again that damn grass. Tonight it is again in the dealership...new brake lines and new front rear calipers, and a worn transmission link arm, at 20,115 miles, again admonished for parking on summer grass. The rust is severe, not just surface. I actually believed that I was responsible for the rust. Seriously, thank everyone who has posted on this forum. CT

  • jordan40jordan40 farmersville, nyPosts: 109

    @mram50 said: Rust doesn't go away..it just keeps creeping in, but on the frame, unless you live in a high road salt area it shouldn't be a major problem, but if it gets real bad you might consider sand blasting it, painting to cover the pitting or if its REAL bad welding some new steel in there, but frames are generally pretty darn strong and can withstand quite a bit of rust.. Sorry about the extra post I had to delete.. I'm new here..just trying to figure out how the boards work.

    new york for example. my truck is an 08. but it is completely rusted on its under body. and my abuse of that truck does not help. and sand blasting might be the best choice. kept the under coating up to date except a year ago. so it deffinitely is a problem

  • jpfjpf Posts: 496

    If anyone lives near the Canadian border, you may want to try one of two places that uses an oil-based product. The outfits are called Rust Check and Krown Rust. When I had lived in Canada, I had it done every year. It is an annual treatment and costs between $150 and $200. It doesn't remove rust but prevents rust from spreading because it displaces the moisture in all the crevices underneath the vehicle, under the hood, and in the trunk.

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