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Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems

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  • wcf59wcf59 Posts: 2
    Update: Its a 1994 JGC. I replaced the pcm with one I found in a salvage yard and it now starts. The tranny is messed up. Bucks and shakes sometimes when in drive with foot on brake. reverse seems fine. Not much power driving forward. Power windows are not owrking. I replaced the master switch with one from salvage but they still dont work. There is power at the master switch. the latch on the rear hatch doesnt work eight, seems like the handls qont pull the rod far enough to release the latch. same on the rear passenger door. Also the power door locks dont work on all of the doors.
  • Hi -- sorry if this is in the wrong place but Im having a problem with my Grand Cherokee (1993).

    For the past few months the 'Check Oil Level' Message has been coming up on the computer notification system over and over again. I have changed and checked the oil several times, added 2 extra quarts, and done everything I can think of to get it to stop. I am wondering, what are my options here.. Is there a way I can disconnect or remove something to atleast get it to shut off?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • lisac0608lisac0608 Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    my power windows dont work, when i lock my doors using my key all doors lock except the drivers door...

    tonight when i cranked it up i have my lights on auto and they would not come on,i have to twist it to "on"... where it shows how many miles to empty,miles to service, outside temp etc... on the roof its showing -- ..... my radio works and dash lights, when i twist my lights all the way off my radio lights go off but not the ones in the dash. oh yea and at the same time this happened my ac is not cooling
  • gaj2888gaj2888 Posts: 5
    Had similar problems with my Jeep Cherokee. Check the wiring running through the drivers side door (probably running through a black conduit or hose). You more then likely have a crack in one of the wires inside this hose causing a short. In the cherokee this was the orange wire, check them all.
  • Similar issue to Donna's. And, I've previously posted but now have additional symptoms:
    The skinny: '04 Jeep JGC Limited SOHC. I replaced the battery in May of 2009. At the time, the terminals were showing evidence of corrosion and I stupidly did not clean the cables. But, I did clean them off in January of 2010.

    The issue: Car will not start right away. Problem goes away for a couple weeks, then comes back. No electronics will work. But fiddling with ignition, pumping brakes (don't ask me why...), doing an Irish jig, taking a pen cap and chewing 7 times, then wait for about 1-2 minutes, starts up just fine. Sometimes, I go into a store and depending how long I'm gone, it will not start right away. If it sits for a better part of the day, it'll start just fine.
    But, the clock resets to 12. However, the radio presets are all still there. Seat memory still there. No other problems. Car drives fine, shifts fine, everything. Oh, but third brake light in hatch is out (and I think this has been out for a very long time).

    Symptoms: It all started with the car not wanting to turn over, so I tried a couple more times and started up just fine. Then, my wife had similar issue a couple weeks after that. Then, a couple weeks later, I had same issue but started noticing other things other than the car not wanting to start. No sounds, no clicking, just no nothing. Then, for some unknown reason, it starts up as if nothing was wrong.

    Here's what I've noticed the half-dozen times or so it's happened:
    When I shut car off and remove ignition key, the driver's seat does not move back. I open the door, no interior lights, nothing. Can't lock it with key fob, nothing.
    When I put ignition key back in and to the ACC position, the needles in all the guages flicker up and down/back and forth about a quarter inch. And, I hear a clicking sound from under the dash or hood (not sure which). I try to turn it over, needles in gauges stop and absolutely nothing happens.
    Recently, my wife noticed the malfunction warning light come on for a day, but I drove it the next day and did not get a warning light at all.
    The transmission fluid needs to be changed and recently had passenger side window regulator replaced but this problem has been going on since before the regulator went out.

    I'm now thinking that it's a control module. Would it be the PCM? Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? I really don't want to spend a grand I don't have.
    I've heard the dealer has to re-program the PCM when it has been replaced. Is this true?
  • I have a 2002 Limited that I used to love until I started having problems. Here is the list and I would be ever grateful if anyone can help with... any of them.

    1. Airbag light comes on intermittenly

    Sometimes I can go a whole week without it coming on and sometimes it will come on and off every 10 seconds or so and drive me insane. What's causing this? I tried and see if turning the steering wheel slowly to see if it does at a certain angle, but it comes on randomly at whatever angle... whenever it feels like it.

    2. Pedal adjust

    For some reason, the accelator is stuck on the furthest setting and the brake pedal is stuck on the closest setting. This makes for a rather awkward motion whenever I have to stop since I basically have to heave my foot over and up 12 inches to stop. How do I fix this?

    3. Passenger seat tilt stuck

    I can hear the motor sluggishly humming, but the far right and far left switches don't move the seat at all. The middle one still moves the seat backward and forward fine, just not tilt or elevate.

    4. Squeaking noise underneath

    Whenever I stop or go over a speed bump, there is a squeaking noise. It's not the brakes because I know what that sounds like, but this one sounds like it's coming from the suspension. What's causing it? Better yet, how do I fix it?

    Help, please?
  • stowie81stowie81 Posts: 1
    i have a 91 jeep cherokee with a 4.0..it startd when i was driving and it died on me.. start back up and stall again.. replaced the whole fuel system and now when i turn the key on.. i have no power to the ignition and fuel pump.. but lights and horn works.. fuses r good.. couldnt find any fusible links...im stumped..anyone got any suggestions?.. o.. i also replaced the crank sensor and auto shutdown relay
  • jm55jm55 Posts: 1
    My1999 V8 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited – 1J4GW68N7XC6889389- stalls and stops mostly in heavy traffic condition. stop and go at slow speeds. Some times it stops also on cruising at 80 or 90 kmph. It happens about 3 to 4 times a day at slow speeds or cruising. what I have noticed as engine stalls and Check Gages light is on. Initially all gages looks ok. Within 2 or three seconds fuel gage shows Empty and security KEY sign is on. If you leave it these for 5 or 10 minutes and keep ignition on, if fuel gauge moves (showing not empty) it will start and you can drive off. If traffic is heavy it may stall again after a kilometer or so. If you can drive at about 80Kmph it goes for about 30 to 40 minutes and stall again. Twice I gave it to two different agency workshops and got the wiring checked and cleaned. On both occasions it worked without any stalling for 5 days and started to stall again. In both occasions there was no error code displayed when checked with computer. When stalling occurs and fuel gauge shows empty; the computer shows NO Communication with PCM.
    Stalling problem is not there in winter on Highways. I can drive 500 to 600 km in one go. But as soon as it enters heavy city traffic it stalls with loss of power and fuel gage shows Empty along with other gauges.
    I Got crank position sensor replaced at the workshop but problem persists. Also tried swapping of the ASD and fuel pump relay. Checked all cleaned all wiring harness. Still problem is existing for almost 2 years now.
  • jeepssuckjeepssuck Posts: 10
    Yours is a pretty common problem among Jeeps. The stalling without any notice is in all likelihood, the malfunction of the crankcase sensor. They can't run a diagnostic because a check engine light doesn't appear. The crank sensor runs about $50.00 at Auto Zone, or less if you purchase it on Ebay. There are YouTube videos that tell you how to replace the sensor, but it's better left to a mechanic. Had a mechanic replace mine for $60.00, and had no more issues with stalling.

    FYI: Never take a Jeep to a Jeep garage for issues like this. They are nothing but talentless hacks that are out to gouge the customer out of $$$, and generally can't fix the problem. Try to find a good mechanic that will work with you on solving these issues, and continue to read the forums (another good one on CNET), because chances are, you will experience more problems that will seem totally strange and illogical. Ultimately, you can blame many of the Jeep issues to just great American ingenuity, and is a testament to why Chrysler is in the condition that it is.
  • I believe I now have a "SHORT" in my electrical, last night we had a long wet unusual storm for Boulder, CO. and this morning my "Dome" lights staied on, my Alarm sounds after I've secured the vehicle after 5 minn. and my instrument panel says the rear loading hatch is open. I've disconnected and reconnected the batter, what else do i need to do
  • I have the same car with the same "stalls in heavy traffic" DID YOU GET THE PROBLEM RESOLVED AND IF SO , HOW ???
  • jeepssuckjeepssuck Posts: 10
    If your symptoms are:
    - No check engine lights (or other lights) appearing on dash
    - Vehicle stalls with no warning; could stall while starting up, or while driving at highway speeds
    - Stalling occurs more often when engine is hot

    It's a faulty crank sensor. Auto Zone sells the part for around $50; sells on Ebay for around $20. I'm told that part can be replaced with the right tools and if you're mechanically inclined; I took my JGC to a local mechanic who replaced the sensor for $60. Ran just fine after that.

    DO NOT TAKE THE VEHICLE TO A DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIRS!!!!
  • havo1havo1 Posts: 1
    none of the gauges are working.It started with just the speedo and rev counter .I have changed the panel as instructed but it is the same.Any suggestions please
  • berger49berger49 Posts: 3
    I bought a used 2006 Grand Cherokee 2 weeks ago and I will already be taking it back to the dealer for the 3rd time due to the gauges bouncing all around when I am driving at constant speeds. To give you the update so far...First time, they checked the battery and tightened up the posts, claimed that would fix the problem. Second time around they replaced the ignition switch, again claimed that would fix the problem. Since it is under warranty, I will make them check every idea until the damn thing is actually fixed. I would greatly appreciate it if someone wants to point me in some sort of direction since the mechanics at the dealership I purchased from seem to have no clue.
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    edited April 2010
    I have a 99 grand cherokee 6cyl, had similar problem. Gauges bouncing, do you mean every gauge pegs to far side then goes to zero, maybe continues in this manner? That is the problem i had, also does any electronic overhead displays you have like miles per gallon, trip odometer(not the one in dash) all reset? If so, i think dealer was on right track with tightening battery posts, but when it happened again they should have replaced battery. When i had the problem i had noticed my battery gauge was reading 12.5 volts which i assumed was ok, it was in ok range of gauge, but a fully charged battery is actually 13.75 volts. Your jeep is 2006, battery is near end of life if original and may be low, good enough to start jeep, but the delicate computer acts weird with lower voltages and can cause a lot of strange electrical issues. When i replaced my battery 5 months ago, problems were all solved, so make sure your battery is closer to 14 volts than 12 volts with full load. Go to any store that sells battery's for them to test. Your battery is usually not under a warranty, but if it fails this test maybe you can complain and get one, or just shell out bucks somewhere else to buy one. Autozone will test and install free of labor charge right in the parking lot. Weak battery is a huge cause of intermittent electrical problems in grand cherokee, dealers never admit it and always look elsewhere for some reason.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    HERE HERE i always suggest to change battery when having funny electrical problems jeeps like a steady voltage
  • arron777arron777 Posts: 1
    The last few months, sometimes my 97 JGC won't started after I turned the key, there is no power and I checked the battery terminal, it was good, the inside light was not on when the door was opened, but I can see the light under the hood was on, and hear some squeeky noise under the glove compartment, sounds like the relay/coil... or something trying to start or kick on... and sometime I slam the door few times I was able to start the car... It was just frustrating because it was intermitten, but the last few days it happended so often... Any suggetstions???
  • jeepssuckjeepssuck Posts: 10
    edited May 2010
    1) Check to make sure that your battery terminals are clean and free of corrosion.
    2) Ensure that the battery connections are secure to the battery. Even though the hood light may be on, it may be dimly lit. Jiggle the battery connetions around to ensure that they are TIGHT!! to the terminals; you'll know that you have a good connection when the hood light is brightest.
    3) The BCM is located under the glove compartment. A common issue with the older JCG's is that the BCM contacts become corroded and cause all sorts of electrical problems. One solution is to:
    1) Disconnect the battery
    2) Find the BCM; Pull the module from it's plug.
    3) Clean the contacts thoroughly with contact cleaner. Wipe the contacts dry.
    4) Reconnect the BCM and battery.

    Good luck!
  • I have a 97 Grand cherokee. Engine light on. Replaced fuel pump, wires , rotor , cap , plugs, o2 sensor, trans sensor ( on 3rd one in one week). Was running fine after, trans sensor, engine light still on, after 02 sensor was installed trans sluggish, feels like emergency brake on. Three mechanics, no solution. Also, have a friend had same problem. No mechanic could solve it. Tranny eventually went and scrapped it. There's an answer for everything in this universe. What's this one? (tranny was running fine before 02 sensor, although idling a little rough, sometimes hard to start) The last mechanic said he's not getting a reading from something and he can't get a diagnosis on the scanner—mentioned possible govenor problem in trans. Anyone got the inside skinny on this problem, sounds like it's not only me??

    Best,

    Mark
  • rkymtnmanrkymtnman Posts: 3
    I just ran into this problem, and for my situation, it was the the rear hatch. there was a short (Open) in the housing for the rear latch assy. IF it's no bother to you to have ALL your electronics working, you can disconnect the harness, and be on your way, but in my situation, I had the rear hatch assymb. replaced and of course it's a dealer part, so they soaked me $200 just for the part, and it took only 30 min. to install. You might be able to find a perfectly good replacement at a jeep graveyard.
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