Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems



  • joe3djoe3d Posts: 17
    My battery was original from Aug of 2005 GCJ. Almost 5 years so I had it changed. So far nop problems in the last week.
  • ggreen3ggreen3 Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum, but if this message gets posted, I just wanted to thank Mickyb1 because I also found a broken wire that had made all my windows go dead at the same time... It was an easy fix, just hard to find since no fuse or circuit breaker relay was broken. Thanks...
  • kman22kman22 Posts: 2
    any idea how to fix a liftgate lock? It does not unlock from the fob or the lock switch. Only way it so climb back there and mannually flick the lever inside the liftgate panel.

    do i need to replace the entire lock?

    thanks -
  • while driving i hit bump and car just die and would not start

    car cranks but wont start just change all the sparks wire
    out of wich 3 had no continuity, we have power before the coil and
    at the entrance of the distributor what should i be checking for
    this is my transportation to work any help will be much appriciated
  • tomficcatomficca Posts: 1
    My 04 has the dreaded window malfunction.I have done all the testing to check for a bad or brocken ground in the door jamb and foud it to be OK. What is left to check or replace? HELP!!!!!
  • pureh21pureh21 Posts: 1
    My 04 grand cherokee has some issues i need help with please!!!!!! The door locks quit working on the drivers side door the remote still works and now all of the sudden the windows will not work and the dome light remians on as i drive. when i got in my car this morning half of the programmed raido stations were not there anymore either. If anyone could offer some advice or maybe a solution it would be greatly appreciated.
  • did u get the problem solved Iam having the same problem any ideas thanks ed
  • camoman7camoman7 Posts: 4
    i have a 2003 jeep grand cherokee laredo,the cooling fan fails to work when it should. i replaced the motor and the relay located under the head light but still fails to kick on every time it should,i'm not sure what activates relay.
  • rutangrutang Posts: 2
    I have this same problem. Driver side door - no power windows, mirror, or locks. Passenger door locks work, no windows. Rear windows don't work.
    Here's what I did:

    Open the driver door. In between the door and the car there is a black flexible "boot" that covers the wires that connect the power windows, locks, mirror to the body of the car. Take that boot off. There are wires of every color. Look for a broken wire. Mine was the black wire, which is the ground wire. If I connect the 2 broken ends, together, the power windows, locks, mirrors work, and the dome light turns off when the door is closed.

    I bought a connector, and a wire stripper. Just need to connect the 2 ends of the wire, and all should be good.
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    edited July 2010
    Before you replaced relay did you have a check engine light? I did when my relay went bad, by checking the code by turning key on-off the correct amount to display code it gave me code for fan relay- i replaced and it fixed. I also changed the fuse in the under hood box, as it blew open. my fan relay first went bad by being stuck on all the time, after engine was off it ran till it killed battery, then when i jumpstarted a few hours later when i discovered it, i had a check engine light, a blown fuse, and bad relay which never let the fan come on again. I first just replaced the fuses, there are 2 in box related to relay and fan. that did not fix till i replaced relay, which i had a mechanic do. There is a temp sensor which sends a signal to computer which then lets the relay go on or off, i am not sure where this particular sensor signal comes from, and i would be guessing to say maybe the sensor is bad and not sending signal to computer. Do you have a check engine light? Here is how to retrieve code, and a link which gives a list of codes.

    Retrieving codes:

    Turn the ignition key until the digital odometer displays, repeat three times in succession and then back to "On" (On/Off, On/Off, On/Off, On). At the fourth "On" the odometer will be replaced with codes. If no codes are present then "Done" will appear.
    do not turn key far enough on to start jeep, only to on position that lets odometer light.
    If no check engine light, probably no code, not every malfunction will leave a code, but when my relay broke it did light light and give me code p1491 which was relay, there are codes on list for sensors, so if you have a check engine light this might help.
  • jmm1394jmm1394 Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    Hi guys,
    I have found a fix for the lights, windows and driver door problems with 1999 - 2004 Grand Cherokees.
    Inside of the driver door wiring grommet, there is a large, black ground wire that tends to break due to the door being closed over and over again. Just take a piece of wire (no more than say and inch and a half) and strip the ends of the original wire as well as the new piece of wire. Solder the new wire to the existing, and then wrap it generously in electrical tape. Install the grommet back onto the white wiring harness, and close the door to make sure everything works correctly.

    I also have a fix if your air does not come out of the right vents (or is stuck blowing out the defrost vents) and/or if your cruise control does not work.
  • jmm1394jmm1394 Posts: 2
    Its usually a simple fix. Ours was. There is a vacuum line that comes off of the engine and it affects the cruise control and the changer door for the HVAC system. This tube can either pop off the side of the engine or disintegrate somewhere in the engine compartment. On ours, the piece of tubing that went bad was right below the passenger side headlight and was about 6 in. long. It came out of the vacuum pump and into a t-joint in the vacuum line. It makes it easier if you remove the battery and battery tray. Other than taking the battery tray out, this is a simple fix.
  • Hello,

    I am having this same problem with my instrument cluster going on and off intermittently and even some times the ABS braking system engaging. (feels like a wheel coming off the bearings). I am now engaged in a "skirmish leading to a full battle" with the Dealership and may have to resort to the legal system to resolve this issue. It has been going on for now 1-1/2 years or repair history.

    Many (expensive) components have been replaced:
    some are $400-$500 each

    - Ignition Power Module (IPM)
    - Front Control Module (FCM)
    - Shift Control Module (ShCM)
    - Steering Control Module (StCM)
    - Ignition Switch (2x)
    - Fuse Block

    The Jeep Technician reports for example:

    a faulty IPM and reported faults in several Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) in multiple modules. Also performed “wiggle tests”. Intermittent loss of Start/Run signal in ignition switch.


    “DTC’s B2100 and B212D and “all modules concerning these codes have been replaced. Replaced three circuits from Ignition Switch to Junction Block and two circuits from TIPM to Junction Block. Replaced Ignition Switch. Road Tested.”

    Each time the problem was considered road tested and fixed.. but almost every time, after taking car back on the road, it would fail with exact same symptoms, again and again. One time, not ten minutes after leaving Dealership. It took a 10 page letter (10pt single spaced) to describe the full history of this problem. Honestly, 10 pages !! :mad:

    Now I am curious after reading the thread on this forum, if after between $1500-$2000 in repair fees, that it could be as simple as a bad/defective battery and low voltage. Note: Jeep headquarters Engineering Support Department has been involved in the diagnosis and troubleshooting from almost the beginning of this ordeal

    I am mailing the letter to the Dealership ownership, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep HQ and cc to attorney. I originally purchased a full factory warranty as I bought the vehicle used but paid extra to get original factory warranty. The warranty expired in the middle of all this and Dealership then shows reluctance to deal with this even though, the very same and original problem, occurs again and again and is never fixed. their argument was that each new component failure represented a ner problem and solution. were this a new purchase and less than two years old then... :lemon:

    There is much more to this but trying to keep it brief.

    Any thoughts/advice/ideas are appreciated


  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    edited July 2010
    I don't know what to think, i would guess the dealership would check your battery, and mine did eventually fail within 2 months after my problems started, but i would think if problems started while you had a warranty the issue is not unrelated as the dealers says and an attorney should pursue it as a single issue that started under warranty which did not get fixed. It's pretty simple to see if battery voltage is good, with engine running your dashboard battery gauge needs to be in the high end of good range, if its on the low side but still in good range then let a battery place other than dealer test, like sears. It needs to be close to 14vdc, at least 13.5 with engine running and also test good for starting amps. If it's 06 with original battery its near end of life and may be time to replace, but i doubt it would be your case that it caused problems going back a year and a half, but if its changed and it fixes problems, i would not even confidently say you had a low battery for 1 1/2 years, it seems it would have failed already. I don't know if low voltage would cause an ABS problem, i don't think a faulty signal from computer due to low voltage would trigger ABS, i have not read anything on threads about that.
  • jeepssuckjeepssuck Posts: 10

    The intermittent coming off/on of the instrument cluster bus provides a diagnostic ode that in most cases, does not indicate what the actual problem is. For example, on my 2000 JGC, the diagnostic code indicates that the issue was with the instrument cluster bus. I had a REAL MECHANIC test some if not most of the wires and didn't find a problem. He even replaced the instrument cluster, which didn't solve the problem.

    What many on these boards are finding is that corrosion forms on the contacts of the BCM. On the 2000 JGC, the BCM within the interior of the vehicle, under the dash near the glove comparment. Apparently the fix was to spray the contacts of the BCM with contact cleaner, get the contacts corrosion free, and the re-plug in the module.

    Unfortunately, dealerships seem to be about more replacing expensive electronic parts, and less about finding the problem. One thing to keep in mind: when the power source (i.e. battery) is disconnected, the electronic system in the vehicle essentially resets itself (similar to a computer re-booting). Once the battery is reconnected, you'll get anywhere from a few hours up to 10 days without problems. However, as you've discovered, the instrument cluster issue ALWAYS RETURNS. Try disconnecting the battery yourself for a few hours and check the results.

    When the dealership replaces one of the parts that you've listed, the first thing that they do is DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. After the expensive part has been installed, the battery is then reconnected. The electronic system is then reset and the ICB appears to be functioning normally.

    As I mentioned, check/clean the contacts on the BCM. Next, you may wish to check the rubber boot that runs between the driver side door and the interior. The rubber boot protects wires; Sometimes, a wire becomes broken that may affect the ICB.

    Finally, it was recommended to me after much work and investigation, to attempt to find a reputable, experienced Jeep mechanic (one that doesn't work at a dealership). Good luck.
  • Hi,

    Did you ever resolve the Electrical problem? I posted entry #346 in this thread. Seems like very same problem i am having now with my '06 Jeep G.C. Laredo.

  • Hello and thank you for the reply and info and insight.

    Do you know if the BCM is "easily" accessible to the average user?


  • Hi,

    Yes, the ABS problem is the most perplexing, as it is seemingly unrelated to the problem, but it keeps occurring . There are a few BUS circuits and mine is the BUS "C" circuit. It effects the modules I originally listed. The other threads list info about headlights and other eqpt like wipers "failing safe" and turning on or flashing. But I am to understand that my symptoms do not effect headlights etc.
    Note: There is a good forum called "Jeep Garage dot org" that has some interesting info.

    I am off to the post office now to send my letter (10 pages) to the Dealership to ask them to fix this problem or refund the over $2000 (incl rentals) that I have spent on this [back to square one] electrical repair/nightmare.

    An attorney advised to follow that plan as a matter of proper procedure in building a case. The letter also goes to Chrysler Group, L.L.C. in Auburn Hills, MI
    Where is the Jeep Engineer's pride up at the factory. They should be all over this stuff to solve and try at least to uphold the name and integrity of JEEP. But I digress...

    For a while anyway i could survive without the gauges but the A?C goes out too and it is not exactly cold outside these days. 105 degs now wit the Heat Index.


    thanks again,
  • 2010-08-01 10:14:00
    Update on the ongoing saga with my dash cluster malfunction...

    A user suggested that Jeeps are prone to problems relating to low voltage being delivered to the electrical system. it was stated that voltages less than approx. 13.5v could be a cause of problems. So... i went to Sears where I had purchased a DieHard battery (Jeep GC requires a special (truck) battery, not a typical car battery). They tested the battery and it delivered 13.9v to 14.0v consistently.

    I am still trying to solve this problem, as the dealer after 7 visits has not fixed it as considerable cost. ($1500-$2100 so far).

    Another supposition is that it may be a bad connector or loose contact behind the firewall (interior) and is the BCM Body Control Module. Anyone familiar with this component? and where to locate it?

    components replaced so far

    * Front Control Module
    * Steering Control Module
    * Shift Control Module
    * Ignition Power Module
    * Ignition Switch (2x)
    * Fuse Block

    One of the symptoms, is that the problem occurs when the vehicle experiences bumps in the road or general vibration, but that it is also now happening more frequently at idle. And occasionally the ABS initiates.

    Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated.


    feeling like i have a :lemon: (but know law does not apply to my Jeep)

  • I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7L with the same problem. It's been doing this for about 1 1/2 years. It cranks fine cold, but if you drive it more than 10 miles, turn it off and try to start it again.....NOTHING. I've figured out if I turn the key off and try again, while mashing the brake it'll start.....very weird....

    Have you gotten any answers to the problem???
Sign In or Register to comment.