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Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems

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  • Lights flashing is vehicle anti theft system. Use key in door lock to reset system to stop lights. Tons of problems with security on jeep.
    I have 1995 GC linited w/ V8. Same no start condition right now. No power to fuel pump. Trying to trace power from pump backwards to Bat. Will keep you posted. Where did you find melted wires? What engin? V8 or I6?
  • You can get a PCM on ebay for 189. Very easy to install a new one. Seller will program it specifically for you vehicle. I am still going to try and find the problem before I spen the money on a new PCM
  • Hi all-
    I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it has been having what I think are electrical issues. About a year ago the lights would flicker on the dash and radio/clock intermittently. It wasn't a big issue, just annoying. Nothing else was affected...gauges and everything worked fine. It has been doing this on and off for a year, but today driving into work it started up again but the emergency brake light flickered too. Then it happened again but stayed on for a few seconds...and so did the ALB warning light. When this happened all of the dash lights turned off and I heard a pop in the radio speakers and the radio went off. Then it all went back to normal! This happened 2 more times on my 20 minute commute. I don't know if this is a dealer issue or if it's something I may be able to handle on my own (like if it's with the battery or something). The battery has been replaced recently but I have always had an issue with corrosion on one of the connectors. Could this be it? Just a bad connection? I'm just worried this may be effecting my outside lights, but really there isn't any way to tell since it happens so infrequently.
    Any advice is greatly appreciated.
    Thank you!
  • Luckily (I hope) my electrical issue did not impact my engine or radio. I did sense that the vents were not working properly at the time that my dash was lighting up like a Christmas tree. The check engine light was looked into and they said I had a faulty chip in one of my keys. It was like the engine thought the car was being tampered with. It also showed that the fuel gauge was not indicating the proper levels. I took it in to a dealer over the weekend and they said they have seen this before and we replaced the ignition switch- $440 bucks! This morning, on my 120 mile commute, I had no problems whatsoever. Now, do I trust that this is fixed? No! Once you have a problem like this, you feel like your car is no longer dependable. I will keep my eye on this and let you all know if this situation occurs again. Since I have two keys, I started using the "good" key as well.
  • emilyl83, I too have a 2005 JGG and about two months ago it started acting crazy, the wipers would come on and off on their own, the dash lights would flicker, the AC would quit working intermitently, it would shift roughly in and out of MDS, etc...After many trips to the dealership and them telling me "we couldn't replicate the problem so we can't fix it", I finally started doing some research on my own. Most websites led me to believe that it is most likely the PCM (also called ECM) card. But I decided to start with the easy fix first, unplug the negative battery cable for 20 minutes to let the PCM card reset. I did this a month ago and my Jeep has been running like brand new since. If this doesn't do it, then look into replacing the ignition switch but don't pay $450 for the dealership to do it. It's really simple to do it yourself for $45.
  • i have owned a Grand Cherokee Stealth edition ( UK Spec ) since 2003 and the one piece of advice i would give to a prosective owner is....Do not touch a grand Cherokee with a barge pole unless u a re well into aut electrics....The car supplied WILL fail electronicaly within 3 months of delivery and the dealership will deny any knowledge of problem even if we all know whats wrong.
  • I hear you mickyb1, as much as I love my JCG, I kick myself for trading in my Nissan Pathfinder for this electrical nightmare I own now. And the more I read in this forum about the other quality and reliability issues people are having with their relatively new JGC's, I am really disappointed in the products being put out by Chrysler these days. And I don't know if the rest of you encounter the same problem, but in my city, I really can't trust the Jeep dealership to correctly diagnose and fix my vehicle, they are pretty useless.
  • I agree with you. I'd never purchase another Chrysler product, and when I owned my JCG, I would NEVER, EVER bring it to a dealership for maintenance or repairs.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 790
    The Grand Cherokee has gone downhill with each new generation. The 1st gen (93-98) had their share of problems, some powertrain combinations more than others. But my parents bought a '95 Laredo 2WD new in 12/94 and it's still going strong with over 210,000 miles on it! It has the bullet-proof 4.0L Inline-6 (as long as you keep oil in it) and the engine/tranny have never had any major repairs. I bought it from them several years ago because I hated to see it go, so it's my weekend/Home Depot/hauling vehicle. The paint is shot and it has some minor electrical issues, mainly the radio doesn't work for months, then it will suddenly start working when I flip the headlights on/off or hit a button the overhead console...but then it goes out again in a day or a week and nothing will get it to work until the next time it spontaneously repairs itself!?!?

    It's a crying shame that the 2nd gen (99-04) had so many problems, because they are still some of the best looking SUVs ever made, IMHO. I'd love to have an '04-'05 Overland with the HO 4.7L V8...but I know it would be a money pit, to say the least.

    I have a friend who drives a 2008 Limited 4x4 that she bought new for over $42k! In the first two years and 42k miles, it had the transmission replaced, multiple components of the Quadra-Drive system replaced, an oil leak that took several service visits to finally fix, leaky radiator replaced, a fuel pump and several more minor issues. It also has a few intermittent electrical gremlins, including interior lights that fail to work at all sometimes and refuse to go off at other times! And the rear tailgate warning light comes on all the time, even when it is securely closed.

    I started with working with her last year, so I didn't know her when she bought it. Otherwise, I would have tried to steer her in another direction! Or at least filed for Lemon Law protection, but it was too late by the time I met her.

    The 2011 looks amazing and they keep talking about it being the highest quality vehicle they've ever built. That may be true, but for those of us who have seen what they've been building for the last few decades, why give them another chance and take the risk???
  • LEFT TURN SIGNAL DO NOT WORK, IT ONLY WORKS WITH EMERGENCY FLASHERS WHEN ENGAGED. I REPLACED THE HEAD LIGHT SWITCH WHICH CONTROLS THE H/L AND TURN SIGNALS WITH EMERGENCY FLASHER. HOWEVER THE PROBLEM IS NOT RESOLVED, PLEASE IF ANYONE KNOWS WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM PLEASE ADVISE.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    cheack and replace bulb holder as they deteriorate with age
  • psujeeperpsujeeper Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    So two days a go i went to start my car and it didn't turn over the 1st time. So i tried again it started up fine, or i thought it did. After backing out of my parking spot i tried to turn on my left turn signal and found that it was not working. So I tried the right and that one was dead too. The flashers work but the neither of the turn signals, left or right work. So trying to fix it the fast way i unplugged the battery because that usually fixes almost everything in a Jeep. Well it didn't work. After reconnecting the battery I noticed that now my fan for the AC/heat unit is not working along with the lights in the Treble Mid and Bass and the AC button light when pressed in will not light up. I checked most of my fuses and they are all good. Whats weird is that they are all on different circuits, i think. What did i fry and what can i do to fix this issue with out paying out the [non-permissible content removed]. :sick:
  • erkanerkan Posts: 5
    Out of the blue, my 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L will start then shut-off: It's accompanied by code P1686 No SKIM bus. This explains the shut-off part but none of the gauges work either. I've seen this same problem posted in other forums with many suggestions but no one with the exact symptoms as mine posted what finally fixed their problem. Battery & connections look OK. Any suggestions?
  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    I have a 2000 grand cherokee limited that is doing the exact same things, the gauges dont work , it starts and runs 2 to 4 seconds and shuts off, also all the
    warning lights are lit up. Were you able to find out what it is and did you haveit fixed

    Thanks Brian
  • erkanerkan Posts: 5
    Bad wording in original post. I didn't mean that the Jeep starts by itself & then shuts-off. I meant that the problem started all of a sudden last week. When I turn the key, the engine cranks & starts fine but the SKIM (Sentry Key Immobilizer Module)--the anti-theft feature built into the iginition key system--kicks in & shuts off the engine. Check Engine Light comes on & throws a P1868 (No SKIM bus) code. If it was the key or the SKIM itself, why would the gauges go out also? In other posts people have reported replacing the PCM &/or BCM without luck, which I'm afraid my local dealer might try to do.
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    When i had a starting problen a year ago, i researched the sentry key system, because i thought maybe it was my problem. It was not, but i learned a lot about it. First of all, do you have 2 keys? If so try the other one, if it works, then the other sentry key has bit the dust. If both do not work and both seem to have same symptoms, then it is quite possibly the module under the sterering wheel cover attached to back of ignition switch which reads the sentry key and if it gets signal from sentry key, then sends a signal to pcm allowing start up to complete with no shutdown. If it is this unit bad, unfortunuately just replacing it is no help, for after replacement a DEALER (I HATE THAT) must then program both the unit and you keys.Make sure you give dealer both keys, as both have to be reprogrammed to the unit, if only one is done, the other will not work. So you will be paying for the part, diagnosis, labor and reprogramming keys. If one of your keys still works and you don't care about replacing other, fine, but if its a bad sentry key you want replaced, you must still take to dealer, and dealer must then program the new key AND the old key so they match. If he does not program both, again only the newly programmed one will work. I have a 99 JGC with 165,000 miles, keys have not failed, but if one of my keys failed, when i replaced it, i would not buy one, i would buy 2, and let dealer program the 2 new ones and the still working old one, so if at some point old age kills the still working old one i will be good to go. Bypassing the module will not work, computer needs a valid signal from it to allow starting. But before you go to dealer if both keys do not work, loosen the covers on ignition asnd steering wheel, make sure wires coming in module and leaving module are not broken or pinched, but that is not likely the problem unless a short time before fail you had been working under there and pulled a wire out yourself or caused a problem in closing it up and pinching wires, not a likely fail. Dealer must have vehicle and all keys when programming is done. From what i have read it is more likely module has failed than a key, but if one key works its the module. If you only have one key, then you will not know if its bad key or bad module until dealer tells you.Try disconnecting battery for 10 minutes, reconnecting. If that clears the problem, then its not key or module, but some other sensor or wire, and problem will come back. If that clears problem, though, it will tell you to perhaps save the expense of replacing module and/or keys. Call local dealers, maybe one offers to send a mechanic out to replace module and reprogram keys without towing in to dealer, he can bring the handheld rteprogrammer with him. if you are in Autu club, decision is easy, get a free tow. I tried to join AAA when i had a fail, but they make you wait a week after you join to get a tow, to avoid freeloaders, but if you can put vehicle aside for a week, its a good deal, tow will cost the same or more, and you will be eligable for future tows free.
  • erkanerkan Posts: 5
    THanks for the info but if it's the key or SKIM module, why would the gauges also not work?
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    Since the computer is being told that there is not a valid smart key module signal, it is trying to protect your vehicle from theft, and everything is shutting down. Gauge readings depend on computer signals which they will not get valid signals if computer thinks car is being stolen. A weak battery that needs replacement can cause gauges to go hawywire as computer will not function properly at low voltage. If battery is less than slightly over 13vdc under load of starting it is weak. good batteries are around 13.5 - 14 vdc. I had gauges go crazy whwn my battery was old for the month before it finally died, but there was no skim code, you probably have a problem in that system, logically. You did not mention trying your other key or if you have one. My knowledge of this system is just through online research when i was troubleshooting me bad crank position sensor, which lit up my smart key light but all the other symptoms are different. If your car starts for a few seconds, its a classic sentry key or module sympton, especially with that code.
  • I accidently activated the immobilser within the Stereo of my 1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0 petrol automatic - and now dont know of how to start car, as the immobiliser has kicked in and accidently activated it through the radio/stereo, when I was pressing various buttons, please can you help me.

    Regards

    Steve
  • Hi folks, new on here. I have a 2007 grand cherokee crd owned since new, failed its first mot due to the rear fog lights not working. The log books vague, doesn't even tell you which fuse is for the rear fog lights. Have had an auto electrician on it but can't find the problem. The only other info is I have had a tow bar fitted a couple of years ago and last year noticed the fog lights on caravan not working, but silly me never checked since last year and have not used the caravan since. Any help would be appreciated as I have only a couple of days left on the free retest.
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