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Ford Escape Electrical Problems

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  • I am having the same problem; I'm trying to hook-up a new head unit. My 2003 Limited Escape has three plugs in back - i think two are for amp/sub. My car does the same thing since the unit has been removed. I am not aware why though..
  • It seems that all the escapes 2005 are starting to have this problems,I search about this issue and there is a lot of ford escape owners are upset with this including me,what I did is file a complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and believe me the more we complaint,the sooner Ford will start having a recall on this issue if you fix the problem just keep the receipts and probably get your money back,I paid almost $4000 and my car has only 74000 miles on it,by the way the phone number from NHTSA is 1-888-327-4236,I hope everyone starts to make those calls or do it online on www.nhtsa.gov click on search and on the next window click file a complaint ...
  • I have had the same issue with our 05 escape. Driving along all is fine and then the security light comes on the engine dies, just for a moment and then comes back on. Sometimes it can be rough especially if the gas pedal is pushed down. Only on a couple of occasions have I seen a check engine light come on. Each time we have had codes looked at there were none.

    I have also experienced the engine at low speed and rpms begin to rev much higher than normal. When shifted into neutral the engine reved up to almost 4k. Turned off the car and restarted it and all was normal.

    Have you seen this one before or any posts similar
  • Reading all of these posts, I connect with the "misfire" thing and possibly some type of electrical problem. So here's what's happened and what I've had done to date:

    Beginning December 2009, cruising on a highway, "Check engine lamp" plus " Service emissions system" warning appeared, and oddly enough, the red "Theft" lamp, along with the slightest hesitation. All lamps and warnings corrected themselves within seconds, then all seemed OK.

    A few days later, same thing happened. Only this time, the "Check engine lamp" stayed on. Went to Ford, and because I was then approaching 90K miles--my plugs being the 100k variety, and because diagnostics indicated misfiring on a rear cylinder, I, at the suggestion of the Ford guy, replaced all of the plugs and three rear coils--I elected to do this after consulting with the Ford Rep and reading much information online. I replaced only the "rear coils," because of the difficulty of access and labor involved. Ford was genuinely trying to save me a little cash here, though I wanted all six coils replaced.

    Comes April of 2010, I'm cruising along again, the lamps I mentioned above pop on again accompanied by really severe hesitation/misfiring. I limp over to a local Ford, his diagnostics show #4 cylinder misfiring. Ford guy changes coil--'cause I just had new 100K plugs installed--and all is wonderful.

    Then comes December 2010, the check engine lamp has been staying on again--no hesitation at all. I bring it in to Ford, they find that a "flex connector" at one end of a long section of elaborately shaped pipe that connects both to the manifold and the catalytic converter--oh oh!--needs replacing. Only thing is, Ford, so I was told, does not sell the flex piece alone, naturally. I must purchase the entire pipe--comes to over $700 bills.

    I test drive the vehicle after the repair, and it's very apparent I've lost about half the engine's power? Return to Ford, and here's the explanation: "The new pipe and flex pieces were now performing properly, i.e., holding in all of the engine's exhaust pressure. But now, because of what must surely be a "blockage" of some sort at most likely the entrance to the CAT, but possibly also in one of two other places along the entire exhaust system, the exhaust has to be taken apart and looked at if I'm to regain the engine's full power...jeesh! So, Ford does this stuff, tells me the CAT has gotten all messed up and another $700 dollars later all is ... well? Yeah, the Escape ran like new.

    So that's my saga, with one additional thing or so that I want to mention, because I'm thinking of calling the telephone number of that association a poster somewhere along this thread shared with us, just so I can get on the list for a possible recall of at least the 2005s. Here's why: There just might be a tie to either an electrical or computer problem that could be causing all of these issues. Some source of the problem versus the after effects such as mine. Which, I wouldn't be caring about were it not for the constant comments that I remember issued by all of the technicians I've spoken with over the years of fixing and replacing stuff of my Escape. These comments, too many times, related to some type of electrical issue(s). Hmmm...? This and the fact that--as it was explained to me by the Manager of the last Ford place I've visited and had the CAT replaced at--one smaller problem, if not corrected properly, will cause things like the misfiring, "gumming up of cylinders," destruction of additional components and pieces along the line in a seemingly endless mushroom effect. And finally, this is all I have to report! :confuse:
  • When driving, my car would create a high-pitched buzzing sound that fluctuated its pitch according to changes in gear. The car would then experience engine stall, particularly when slowing or accelerating after a stop. The theft, check engine, and ABS light would flash. The radio and headlights died. During this time a clicking noise could be heard. Within seconds, everything usually corrected itself. Occasionally the car would need to be restarted. Sometimes after these occurrences, the alarm would sound as soon as the key was removed from the ignition. The car would go months without this occurring and then the problem would return. This went on for two years.

    I took this vehicle to two Ford dealerships and a trusted auto repair shop. No one could seem to determine the true cause of the problems. I had the grounds cleaned, spark plugs replaced, spark plug wires replaced, and alternator replaced.

    At the urging of a friend, I finally brought my Escape to Midas. They correctly diagnosed and corrected the problem. Apparently, the person owning the Escape before me installed an after-warranty alarm system. The brand was Code Alarm. The alarm system was not compatible with my Escape's computer and was causing severe malfunctions. The alarm has since been removed and my car has not had problems since.
  • Nevermind. All problems have returned. Back to square one.
  • kmkrazykkmkrazyk Posts: 2
    Wow, this makes me sick. I am also a 2005 Ford Escape owner. I have replaced coils, the computer, etc etc etc. Today driving home from work my Theft light came on and dang near stopped my car in its tracks. It doesnt end. What I would like to know is at what point Ford does something about all of this!
  • You are the first person with a ton of googling research that is having one issue that parallels mine....did you find out what the issue is?
  • kmkrazykkmkrazyk Posts: 2
    Check carcomplaints.com and look up electrical issues with 2005 Ford Escape. There are hundreds of 2005 Escape owners with the same issues. I complained to Ford, the FTC and have heard nothing. Ford said sorry sucks but not our problem. $5,000 later I have nothing to show for it. Replaced computer, radio, coils, spark plugs etc. People need to start complaining so we can do something about this!
  • jt2184jt2184 Posts: 1
    The flashing light is telling you what is wrong. Count the number of times it flashes before a long pause. Mine was doing three then seven. If that is the same code, then you need to replace the connector under the passenger seat.
  • dcoomerdcoomer Posts: 2
    My dad gave me a 2002 escape that sat for awhile and I had to replace the battery. I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM AS YOU. No Radio, Dome Lights, Power Locks only work with key turned on, Trip meter resets, All dials swing from minimum to maximum and back. It's been over a year since you posted these issues. Did you find the solution? Any help would be great! Thanks.
  • This exact same issue happened with my daughter's '02 Escape after she disconnected the battery. Look in the fuse panel for the "ROOM" fuse. Replace it and your radio, dome lights and door locks should work again.
  • 2 Weeks ago I replaced my battery with a new one. I now have a dead battery again. Same issue with the old one. I can go a couple weeks and then all of a sudden I have a dead battery. The radio will also just randomly just turn off an on. Not sure if it is related. If the alternater is bad how can it go a couple of weeks before the battery drains?
  • Update on this issue. I recharged my battery two days ago and it went dead again this evening. My check engine indicator came on this morning. Later in the day after mulitiple on and off runs my abs light would go on and off. Later in the day the brake light would go on and off. I did not dare shut the engine off for fear it would not start again. I drove it home and parked and shut the engine off and tried to start it only to have a dead battery. I believe I have a bad relay in my alternator and it needs to be replaced. I do not have the equipment to test this I am just guessing at this point.
  • I have a '02 Escape XLT with these issues, but cannot find the "ROOM" fuse. Is it in the fusebox by the engine or by the feet of the driver? Is there another name for it?
  • hhmmhhmm Posts: 3
    Room fuse is 27 @ the feet of the driver, look right side of the fuse line. (Next bottom fuse on the right)
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    10A fuse next to the relays at the bottom of the fuse box inside the cabin on the driver side foot well.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    I have my 04 Limited 4WD in the shop for the same problem. Alternator was bad (either from age or overworking to keep the battery charged) I had it replaced with Motorcraft (#GLV-8615-RM). Old Alternator was only charginf at 12.8V (below normal) new one is charging at 14V (normal). Battery is only one month old but if it sits battery goes dead. Voltmeter is hooked up and reading a draw of ~100 miliamps being drawn. Normal is below ~35 miliamps. If fuse #27 is removed (10A Room Fuse) miliamp draw dips into ~5-10 well below normal. Fuse #27 controls GEM module, instrument cluster, audio unit, data link connector. Disconnected radio and no change on draw. Awaiting update from my technician... I called a local Ford dealer, they say in some instances they have found a short in the harness between the driver's front door and the a-pillar or if sunvisors are illuminated in the harness between them and the roof. Does not make sense to me since fuse #27 does not seem to control either section but I thought i would throw that out there. I will update as info is available.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    I took my Escape to my buddy that works at a Ford dealership. He ran tests on the electrical system and everything checked out great. The 100 miliamp draw only occurs for the first 45 mins after shutting off the truck. After the 45 minutes all modules go to sleep and the miliamp draw drops to 5 miliamps which is way below normal level. Escape is running great we will see if things are fixed with new alternator in place and new battery after a few days or weeks. Keeping fingers crossed.
  • My 2004 XLT has had the identical problem . Replaced the alternator, three batteries, GEM module. The Ford dealership service mgr. told me to hook up a charger all the time! I also had it to an independent shop, where the owner hooked up his meter on the amp scale and called .12 amps normal, when it was 120 ma. I retested when I returned home and the readings I got were 120 ma right after shutoff, and after 45 min. it dropped to 90 ma. Removing fuse 27 drops the ma to the normal range. I just have not found anyone knowledgeable to resolve my dilemma. Will post any new developments.
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