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Toyota Camry 2006 and earlier

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  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    It's hard to diagnose "no start" conditions over the Internet, but I'd recommend having your alternator and battery checked at an auto parts store like Advance Auto or AutoZone, which do these checks for free.

    The daytime running lights draw little power, and are on only when the car is running, so I doubt they are the source of the problem.

    OTOH, the amateur alarm and remote? starter system installation may have caused some lingering problems.
  • lok888lok888 Member Posts: 1,788
    Anyone has a link to program the keyless remote for 2002 to 2006 Camry? Thanks!
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "I'd complain in person..." ((

    Second that advice - there's a chance the service manager isn't even aware of his summer intern oil-change monkey's sloppy habits. paulcudlip should also have someone in the know check the oil drain plug to be sure "Jr." hasn't x-threaded it with an impact wrench...
  • another_personanother_person Member Posts: 93
    I highly recommend complaining in person to the oil service manager if not the service manager himself. All of the oil changes on my land cruiser are done at the dealer, and about every other oil change ends up being a double trip. Once for the oil change and the second for them to finish cleaning the oil off some part of the oil pan or skid plate or something or other. I generally complain to the oil service manager, and he gives me a free oil change for the next time. I've so far only paid for about 3 or 4 oil changes in the 6 years I've owned this car so...yes waste of time, but getting free oil changes $40+ value...
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    This discussion has been reopened in accordance with this post: Sylvia, "Forums Software! Your Questions Answered..." #3319, 12 Nov 2006 2:43 pm. :)
  • noahwaynoahway Member Posts: 6
    1990 CAMRY WITH GAS SMELL.

    I sometimes get a strong gas smell at the rear of the car when it's not running. I don't smell anything when inside the car, only when standing at the rear. The Toyota shop couldn't find anything a couple of months ago but thought it might be a faulty seal at the gas cap. They replaced the cap and it seemed to help for awhile. But the smell is back, as strong as ever. I don't see anything dripping from the car. Has anyone else had this experience? thanks
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    It could have something to do with the evaporative emissions control system. Somehow, gas fumes are escaping.

    You should get this checked by someone who knows what they're doing, and pronto.
  • thetxstangthetxstang Member Posts: 28
    My wife's 2005 Camry LE will automatically lock all the doors approximately one minute after the car is turned off and the vehicle left alone. My 2006 Camry XLE V6 does not do this.

    I've searched the user manual high and low and can not find a specific way to set this. :( Anyone have any information on how this can be done?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    The door locks are not designed to automatically lock in the way you describe for the 2005 model.

    There is only one way the doors can lock "by themselves" when the car is unoccupied: If you hit the unlock button on the remote when all 4 doors are closed, and you do nothing further, the doors will relock after 30 seconds.

    This can happen accidentally, even when I'm in the house, and squeeze the keys in my pocket by crouching down, etc. The car will unlock in the garage and then relock after 30 sec. (I can hear the faint beeps.)
  • gbushgbush Member Posts: 5
    I have the same model year car with the exact the same problem. It has been over a year. Just found the problem last week and ready to fix it after Thanksgiving. A pressure fuel hose going out of fuel tank is leaking. I will let you know once I fix it.
  • gbushgbush Member Posts: 5
    I bought an one foot long non-injection hose (7/8" OD) and 2 clamps from napa. Had a local garage replace it for $20 bucks. Still have smell today, I believe it is from gas left on the tank. Hopefully the smell will be gone after couple days.
  • michaelpsumichaelpsu Member Posts: 24
    For years I heard and read about the 'legendary' bumper to bumper refinement offered by Toyota. After owning two GM products, and three Subarus...I bought the '05 Camry SE on a whim.

    The car has positives...affordible, mechanically sound, roomy, reasonably attractive, and interior materials and textures have a quality look and feel to them.

    Now for the negatives: I swear that the structure of this car is made of JELLO!!!! When you pull into a driveway at an angle, you can hear the body flexing...squeeking. The car is full of squeaks and rattles...all three "pillars." The sunroof doesn't fit in the hole in the roof properly...and sounds just as loud popped up as it does closed. I actually have to close the sunroof the whole way, and then try to pop it up maybe 1/16th of an inch at a time to make the wind noise stop, but it still squeaks and rattles. (They dealer has looked at this issue...three times...supposedly fixed it once...said that the wind noise was NORMAL!) EVERY door wiggles around in it's opening and squeeks on the seals. There is a buzzing sound coming from both ends of the dash. The shifter knob is loose, and I have a front suspension clunk when backing up. Hmmm...I think that is all. *sarcasm*

    The '02 Subauru Legacy GT that I traded...with 68K very roughly driven miles on the odometer...didn't have a single rattle or squeek. My only problems with that car was a bad spark plug at 15K, a sunroof that leaked once...and that was completely replaced with no questions asked, and brake rotors that warped easily...no doubt because of my aggressive driving.

    Needless to say...although I do love the extra interior room that the Camry has over the Legacy...I think that my next car will be a Subaru!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Well, I have had no problems with excessive squeaking or rattling on either of my two Camrys (or for that matter, on the '97 Camry that I sold at 111K miles). The sunroof on the car so equipped does make a flexing noise when I back over the threshold of my garage (from the concrete to gravel).

    Your sunroof may not be properly "initialized." Have you replaced or disconnected the battery in the past?

    Here's how to initialize it -- sounds like your roof isn't sealing flush when closed, which it should.

    To do so without disconnecting the battery, which will mess up your radio presets and clock as well as temporarily affect your engine's idle speed, pull the "power no. 1" fuse in the lower left instrument panel.

    Easier said than done, however. I had to use small pliers and ended up destroying the fuse. So have a replacement (30 amp) on hand before you start. Before you pull the fuse, make sure the keys are out of the ignition and the moonroof is fully closed and flush with the roof. (Tap the switch to position it.) Once the fuse is out, drive around for a day or two. Note: both your moonroof AND power windows will be inoperable, so if you have to pay tolls or use drive-thru restaurants or banks, this won't work.

    Then re-install the fuse, turn on the ignition, and follow EXACTLY the procedure in the owner's manual. It worked for me -- no problems since I did this in early November. Good luck!
  • gmontagewgmontagew Member Posts: 32
    All automobiles "flex". It's the nature of the beast. Those flexing sounds you hear are very likely caused by the rubber mouldings and door seals as the lubricants applied to them "dry out". Try adding a little silicone to door and trunk seals. That usually quiets things down. Silicone can be purchased at your local hardware store. It comes in various forms; liquid, paste, or aerosol spray. Put a little on a piece of paper towel or rag, and just wipe a thin coating on.
    FWIW, I had an outrageously expensive luxury car a few years back, and not long after getting it (new), it started sounding like an off key choir practice. I took it to the dealer and they did the silicone thing, and voila, no more noises.
    We have an 07 Camry (wife's car 4 door with a moon roof),and it's as quiet as a church.
  • moeharrimoeharri Member Posts: 108
    Did you just buy the car (hence it is used) or did you buy it new? You definitely need to take into consideration what the previous owner(s) did to it. This is the single reason that I never buy a used car, no matter how many owners it had. I am just way too paranoid about what could be wrong with it, even if a mechanic inspects it. Also, if it was a program (rental) car, that could be even worse as hundreds (!) of drivers may have had their turn at the car. When a car is a rental, people have a lot less respect for it than their own car. Anyway, if you bought it new, I do feel bad that you apparently got a lemon. Our 2005 XLE is even better than our 07 LE as far as body rigidity and feel of quality. Good luck.
  • jollygreen1jollygreen1 Member Posts: 42
    So far my 05 4banger is one of the best vehicles I have ever owned. It is comfortable on the road and the gas mileage is great (25 to 28 in town and 39 hwy), but I never run it hard and never over 65mph-yep, I'm a geezer. When I first start it up in the morning especially winter mornings (Colorado) I get a very loud vibration or rattle from the engine compartment below 1000rpm. I have tightened everything I could get to and it still rattles (vibrates). Dealer cannot find either, but I don't trust them to have even looked. Anyone else having the same problem? Jollygreen1 (HH-53)
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    The only thing that comes to my mind is one of the exhaust heat shields -- but you've probably already tightened those. I assume this happens only just after the engine is started and then quits?
  • jollygreen1jollygreen1 Member Posts: 42
    Hey Delray, yep, I was hoping the problem was in the heat shields but was wrong. I have begun letting the engine warm up a little before driving. As soon as the engine warms, the rattle is gone. It is aggravating, but the Camry on whole is a great vehicle.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Timing chain rattle until its autotensioner "pumps" up with full oil pressure?
  • jollygreen1jollygreen1 Member Posts: 42
    I thought I had a timing "belt" not a chain, but I guess the autotensioner is there for either type..I guess. I just turned over 30k and the rattle started at about 27k. Someone on another forum suggested bending the catalytic heat shield a little. I guess that means away from any body contact. Will do that when the weather here (Col Spgs, Co) gets a little better. The noise begins around 1000rpm to about 1500rpm and immediately stops when the engine heats up. I suspect a heat shield or something connected to the exhaust system. My wife suggests turning up the radio and that seems to work too. Happy New Year guys and gals. Jollygreen
  • noahwaynoahway Member Posts: 6
    Any updates on your Camry's gas smell? I'll be taking mine into the shop in the next week or so for other issues and will mention this again - and will probably get the "we don't see anything" line.
  • gbushgbush Member Posts: 5
    I fixed it! I bought an 7/8" OD hose, shorter than 1 foot. It took less than 20 minutes to do it. Good luck!
  • gbushgbush Member Posts: 5
    Forgot I already told you I fixed it and want to watch it for a while. Yes, the gas smell is completely gone.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    I hope you explained to the parts counterman that you were after fuel-line hose. The rubber for fuel-line is formulated differently than the rubber for coolant use to stand up to the solvent properties of gasoline.
  • gbushgbush Member Posts: 5
    Yes, I did. The problem is it is very hard to find the part number for that hose. I tried Autozone, Advance Autoparts, Napa and online stores. No one seems to find from manual about the size because it is a generic part. I only found from Napa selling hoses. Fuel hose has injection and non-injection. Injection hoses are usually much smaller. Even 8-cyls trucks do not use 7/8" OD hose.
  • bama1984bama1984 Member Posts: 1
    HOW DO YOU CHANGE A 2002 CAMRY LE DRIVE BELT :confuse:
  • kenymkenym Member Posts: 405
    Take it too a Toyota Dealer :shades:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Don't know specifically for a 2002, could check a service manual.

    But if this helps, for a 2007LE 4cyl........
    - Remove front wheel, RH
    - Remove engine undercover, RH
    - Remove front fender apron seal, RH
    - Remove V-ribbed belt by using a SST (long handled socket breaker bar) with a 19MM socket wrench, loosen the v-ribbed belt tensioner arm clockwise, then remove the belt.
    - Notice: be sure to connect SST and the tools so that they are in line during use; when retracting the tensioner, turn it clockwise slowly for 3 seconds or more. Do not apply force rapidly. After the tensioner is fully retracted, do not apply force any more than necessary.
    - The picture shows the breaker bar in a near verticle downward position, with the handle by the oil pan.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    So in other words, this isn't a job for the faint at heart.

    I'll stick to oil changes and tire rotations myself and leave this one to the pros!
  • milkyway1milkyway1 Member Posts: 18
    I own a 1998 2.2L 4cyl Camry, awesome vehicle. Have 125,000 miles on it and drives like brand new. I'm the 5th owner of that vehicle.

    My mom has 2000 2.2L 4cyl Camry. Last week I drove her car for 4 hours and I was disappointed. The drive was on a hilly area and I noticed that the car was shifting gears so erratically (I think you guys call it RPM Flare) to maintain a cruising speed of 60mph that passengers had to tell me to drive smoothly. I was ashamed of this vehicle. I also noticed a brief lag of 2-3 seconds while accelerating for a slow speed. E.g. while accelerating after the End of a School Zone. I don't think that 2000 Camrys had drive by wire throttle. However, this vehicle doesn't feel like a Camry at all. And it has only 70,000 miles on it. Could it be the spark plugs or something?

    Also, about a month ago I met an Assistant Toyota Service Manager at aa friends house. I expressed my desire of rading in my 98 camry for a 2007 model. He warned me about the issues of Drive by Wire throttle system and that it was affecting Camrys and highlanders primarily and the TSBs were not solving the problem to satisfaction. The Hybrid Camry however doesn't have any problems. After that I started visiting these forums and found out about these problems.

    Now I'm thinking of giving mmy car to my mom and buy an 07 Hybrid for myself.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Member Posts: 7,160
    You will love the hybrid Camry. It'a truly a remarkable machine.

    It has the look and the feel of the XLE and the same pickup and power of the 3.0L V6 from your Gen 4 Camry. I also had a '97 and a 2000 2.2L Camry.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I can't remember for sure but I am fairly certain that I first noticed the tendency for upshifting upon a lift-throttle event in my 2000 AWD RX300. I can say with certainty that it does exhibit itself in my 2001 AWD RX300.

    Since so many of the 99 RX300s are incurring premature transaxle failures I strongly suspect the new shift pattern/schedule was adopted at the beginning of Rx300 production.

    The bottom line is that DBW, e-throttle, is not the cause of the transaxle downshift delay but the fix, bandaid, Toyota used to "protect the drive train", prevent premature transaxle failures resulting from the need to downshift without enough ATF pressure/flow.
  • junepugjunepug Member Posts: 161
    We have owned a 2002 V6 LE for over 45,000 trouble free miles. We have never had a rattle or squeek. The only time the car has been in for service is oil changes and general maintenance.

    We also own a 2003 V6 Highlander FWD and have experienced the same.
  • milkyway1milkyway1 Member Posts: 18
    Did you notice the difference between 97 Camry and 00 Camry? Did the 00 model have quick upshifting/downshifting ? I hope you had 4 cyl one.

    Good to hear that about Camry Hybrid. I like its front grill. Do you know if i has any problems?
  • milkyway1milkyway1 Member Posts: 18
    The same holds for my 98 I4 Camry. However, 2000 I4 Camry is really disappointing.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Member Posts: 7,160
    No I didn't notice any difference between the two 2.2L 4c except that the 97 was a little more responsive and smoother. I bought both as TCUV's so they might have been broken in differently. I traded out of the 2000 into a new Prius 14 months ago. It's been perfect.

    In the 8 months that the TCH has been out I haven't seen anyone complain here on the 'net or in person either.
  • mamapmamap Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me what's going on here?

    First: The speedometer/odometer cut out and works only sporadically
    Second: The car began to stall at stops RPMs drop sometimes while still stopping, other times once stopped or in park
    Then: Had my husband change spark plugs and problem stopped for a few days then came back and..
    Finally: Transmission does not always shift while accelerating. For insatance-was doing 15mph at over 3kRPMs.

    All of these things happened within about a week of each other. I had my transmission fluid replaced and a leak repaired at the end of November. Also, right after I purchased the car 2years ago I had to have the heads remachined. It has 140k miles on it now. Is this thing a :lemon: or is it not as bad as it seems?

    Thanks for your help!
  • gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    Just sounds like it is 14 years old. Who knows how it was treated those first 12 years.

    My dad has a 1992 Mazda 626 with 20,000 miles on it. It looks brand new, he is the orginal owner. It just needed a new master cylinder, clutch and some other odd repairs cost about $3,000 bucks

    As rubber and other things age problems just occur.
  • motxlamotxla Member Posts: 1
    have a 2002 Camry 4 cyl with 80000 mi

    I have chips and tarnish all over my paint. I don't think I could hit a floating cobweb with out a match head size chip coming out. I'm not looking for a new paint job . . . any way to touch and feather these little nicks?

    Also, rear passenger door window no longer operates. How difficult is it to trouble shoot these things. Any particular hazards to watch for when you go into the door? Any "common break points" that I should check first?
  • gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    I have a sienna and the window went out of it. I know it is the motor after removing the panel and testing it.

    The problem is the motor is a pancake size device. It looks like you need a special tool to get it out. I know I had no room to pull it out. So I put it back together and I do not use it anymore. Just be glad its the rear window. I would leave it as is. I think it cost like 400-500 to fix.
  • bearcrkrdbearcrkrd Member Posts: 167
    This may be dumb.....but, how about an (Fuel) Induction Service? Clean that little flapper thing. I never had it effect cold idle, but it sure did at normal temp. Never had any Colo type cold, though. Didn't do it all the time, just sporadic; Idled low at a stop sign/light, so vibrated. Gas pedal stuck slightly when taking off, too, during these 'low RPM' events.
    Probably cost $125+ I had it done on a 2001 Camry CE 2.2L at 50,000 and it had needed it for at least 5,000 before that. Change your plugs afterwards. Air Filter, too.
  • perplexed4perplexed4 Member Posts: 1
    Yesterday I was overcome with gas fumes while I was driving with the windows up. I thought I was going to pass out! I stopped the car and got outside and closed the door. I could smell the gas outside the car. I took the car to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong. I have a Toyota Camry Hybrid. Are these the same problems you were experiencing? I'm very concerned this may happen again, although I no longer smell the fumes.
  • jons01jons01 Member Posts: 59
    I had a minor mishap on a parking lot the other day that resulted in a moderate dent in the front corner of the bumper cover. While parking, I slid up over a pile of snow and ice and when backing up it caught the under side edge and caused the plastic to buckle, making a roundish dent. Rather than pay the $500 insurance deductible, I wonder if I can pop it back to an acceptable condition. Has anyone ever done this and how do I get the cover off?

    Thanks for any info.
  • jons01jons01 Member Posts: 59
    My Camry is a 2001 LE.
  • metalibrarianmetalibrarian Member Posts: 29
    Yes, you probably can! Take a hairdryer, put it on its hottest setting, and train it on the plastic dent. Had a funny thing happen to me about a year ago. Bumped into something in a parking lot, resulting in a dent in left rear bumper cover. Drove around with it for two weeks before I finally stopped at body shop for an estimate. Went inside and got the guy to come out to write it up but, surprise!, no dent. thought I was looking at the wrong car but saw my own license plate. Completely flustered, could only stammer, "it was there yesterday..." Well, I live in San Diego and the Camry had been parking in hot sunlight. The plastic cover just popped out to reform in its natural original shape. The guy understood what happened and explained it to me...said he should charge me fifty bucks for consultation but winked...

    So try the hair dryer. You don't even need to take the cover off. Be patient. You may be able to push at little from behind.

    Isn't it great when you have a car that repairs itself?
  • jons01jons01 Member Posts: 59
    metalibrarian - Thanks for the info. It is alittle hard to get my hand up behind the bumper to try to pop it out. I think the wheel well liner is the problem so I may need to try a rod or something to reach the area. Definitely worth a try!

    Are you a librarian? My wife is, but will be retiring soon.
  • metalibrarianmetalibrarian Member Posts: 29
    jons01, the application of the heat from the hairdryer is the most important part, not the pushing from the back. I could reach the center of my dent with a finger but could not apply much pressure. Remember, it was simply the sunshine that caused my bumper cover to pop back to its original shape.

    I should have guessed what was happening because the dent seemed to be getting smaller over time as I procrastinated on going into the body shop.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    My 2002 Camry with 53K miles has never had the rear brakes replaced yet! In fact the front ones were just done last fall. The front had rotors which my tire guy cut and put new pads on. The brakes have been silent and fine since even though the Toyota dealer wanted to replace the rotors irregardless of whether the could be cut or not.

    Now the rear dillema. My tire guy will do a pad job on the rear brakes for about $100. I've been with guy for years and wouldn't have even questioned it except I was at the dealer with my wife's new RAV and asked the service tech how long my brakes might actually go. Anyway after chatting he said they get $250 to do the rear brakes but that includes changing cylinders...EVEN IF NOT LEAKING. He says they likely will leak if he does not change them. I thought this odd so I called another dealer. They said they did not change the cylinder if not leaking and have not seen that many that do leak over the years. Of course there brake job was about $219 w/out the cylinder swap out....very high.

    Finally, I believe the cylinders, if leaking are covered under my 7/75 platinum warranty! The original Toyota dude said to check and make sure but even if covered I would still pay to have them replaced today as he could not replace them under warranty they were NOT leaking....but he still thinks its wise to replace them. I asked WHY? He said if they leak and drip on the pads I'd have to pay for the pad job again even though the cylinders would be covered.

    This all sounds crazy but I want to be safe...if this even is a saftey issue. At the same time I spent more for the Toyota up front to get away from these expensive repairs...espicially when the part is not even broke!

    WHAT SHOULD I DO?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    First of all, if your Camry is a 4-cylinder LE, it has rear drum brakes, not disks. These have brake shoes, not pads, and these should last a long time, well beyond 53K miles, unless you're a habitual, hard braker.

    Of course, the brake shoe linings should be checked periodically for wear, the metal insides of the drum should be checked for scoring or excessive wear, and the wheel cylinders should be checked for leakage. This is a routine and easily performed maintenance item.

    Generally only the brake shoes will need to be replaced, certainly if the car is under 100K miles. Don't fret about replacing the wheel cylinders if they're not leaking.
  • camry03camry03 Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    New to post, I hope someone can help.
    My brother-in-law just got back from Iraq and needed to borrow my 2003 Camry sedan. It was the least I could do.
    When he brought it back, I could see right away that something was wrong. The black plastic "molding" was hanging down from the front bumper. He said he rolled over a concrete stopper in the parking lot and then as he backed up, he heard it scraping and dragging all the way home.
    I think this could best be described as a splash guard, but I can't seem to find this part anywhere. We bent it back into place for the time being, but it still drags on occasion. I'm afraid to remove it b/c the engine would then be exposed.
    Any ideas out there of what it's called and where I could get one or how to repair it?
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