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Oldsmobile Silhouette

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  • vandrvrvandrvr Member Posts: 3
    I took it back to the same repair shop. The caliper on the passenger side had seized. The mechanic said it was a common problem. That said why wouldn’t they check for that during the brake repair? I still have a slight shimmy even though the shop said that they checked the rotor. I'm very suspicious of their diagnosis after the initial repair.
  • sdigger24sdigger24 Member Posts: 1
    Hello All, I have an 02 Silhouette with 113k miles on it. Has been a Great Van for us. Recently it would not start. I replaced the battery and it started the first try. 10 min later, it just clicks. So, I replaced the starter solenoid combo with no better. Still Clicks!. Just replaced the starter relay also and still nothing!.. If I jump the starter, it starts directly up. Any help will be great!! Also there is No security light on the dash flashing. Thank You Much!
  • g302silhouetteg302silhouette Member Posts: 2
    Check the battery cables from the battery. My 02 needed then replaced a while ago because the wire broke inside.
  • vandrvrvandrvr Member Posts: 3
    I had this same problem which turned out (after much investigation) to be a loose chassis ground under the strangely located fuse box. Had to take the whole assembly off to locate the grounding bolt. After tightening it I had no further problems (knocking wood).
  • gold4theflamegold4theflame Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same vehicle and problem. I was wondering where you looked for the bench seat and if it worked.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    We bought this van new in 2001. We like it, but it is HIGH MAINTENANCE! Most of the serious stuff was fixed under the 5 year warranty (over $4K in dealer bills paid by GM), but I have also performed some additional non-standard repairs since the warranty expired in 2006. Here are some problems that I encountered and the repairs I performed myself in the home garage. I hope this information helps people keep their vans going strong!

    A/C. This summer the A/C condensate drain started backing up into the cabin. The symptom first noticed is wet floor carpet/mats and then NO water draining on the ground outside. This is bad news in the summer due to quick mold formation and also water under the floor mats shorting out the electrical cables. I first tried sticking a wire inside the drain hole (high on passenger side firewall) to clear it out. There did not appear to be anything clogging the hole, and this probing did not fix it.

    Reading on various forums about this and similar issues on other vans, I realized that it could be due to a bad gasket or seal that is impossible to get to due to its location inside the firewall. As I was doing some home plumbing repairs at the time, I decided to try some flexible plastic tubing. I used grey Merflex PEX tubing with a 3/8" OD and 1/4" ID and it fit perfectly. I pushed it as far in as it would go, and then after it came out I made a slight downward curve, and then I ran it down to drain near the control arm/ground. Obviously, you want to keep it away from the exhaust manifold, but there is plenty of room in this area to safely locate the new drain pipe. I used a plastic zip tie to secure the pipe to something solid and not moving. This fix immediately got the H20 out of the cab and onto the ground and it has held up fine since June! You can buy the tubing at any home improvement store in 2'-3' pieces and then cut to length.

    Hub/Bearing Assembly. A couple of years ago we started to get the amber ABS light coming on intermittently and then after that we heard a whining sound coming from the lower front of the car. I suspected a bad hub bearing due to the sound and also that the ABS sensor is internal to the hub. We made a best guess as to which side was bad by driving and listening and also putting the car on jacks and moving the wheels and listening. I replaced the front left Hub/Bearing Assembly with a new Timken (Made in USA) version and the whine is gone and the ABS light has stayed off.

    Control Arm. At the same time I was doing the Hub, I decided to replace the front left half-axle because the van was making a clicking sound coming from the left front axle area. I took out the OEM axle and bought a new one at AutoZone. I was surprised that no core charge was included with the purchase price and that the part was brand new. Anyway, I put in the new left half axle, but the clicking sound DID NOT go away! In addition, within a short time period (4-6 months) the van started making a clunking sound when shifted into drive from park when cold. I got busy and I put off trying to solve the old and new problem.

    Fast forward to present (Oct. '10), and I noticed when changing the oil that the lifetime warranty, 2 year old, half axle had already torn a hole in its boot. I have been reading about a clicking sound in GM minivans caused by a bad control arm bushings. So I called automotive machine shops and asked about the price of getting a control arm bushing replaced. The responses ranged from not interested to "$30-$50 range." So I talked to my neighbor who works at another national auto parts chain and he got me the new front left control arm at his employee price of $51.

    I replaced the old control arm, and sure enough, the vertical bushing in the old arm could be pushed out with my fingers (i.e defective). I also took out the defective half axle and returned it to AutoZone. All they had for replacement was the same new, but low quality (Made in China), part that I had purchased two years ago. I even took one out of the box, grabbed each end and turned in opposite directions, and noticed quite a bit of play. I declined the new part and got my $60 back. I put the OEM axle, that I had kept from two years ago, back in the van and reassembled everything. Both the clicking sound from the control arm and the clunking sound from the low quality half axle are GONE!

    Finally, the amount of rotational play in the 7 year old used OEM half axle was less than that of a new, albeit lower quality, part purchased today. Let the Buyer Beware!
  • mallgeyermallgeyer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 silhouette. It started clicking when I would try to start it, a few hours later it would start up. Thought it was starter. Took off and got it checked out and was fine. Put starter back on and now when I turn the key switch I get nothing. No clicking of the starter, not a thing. When I turn the key on and jump the starter posts, it turns over and that Is it, it doesn't want to start up. I don't think the fuel pump is coming on either. I thought my fuels lines were froze or there was no gas but I think I took care of all that. So now need to get it started somehow. Any suggestions? Please help.
  • 33dallas33dallas Member Posts: 1
    I have the ABS light and Track off light both lit up on my dashboard. Mechanic I saw over the weekend said I would need a new brake pump. Does that sound right?
    I am also looking for a good mechanic in the Dallas,TX area.
  • ncostelloncostello Member Posts: 11
    Check the brake fluid reservoir for proper fluid level. I'm almost certain you don't need new parts. For example, a new brake pump malfunction would cause u to loose brakes. If it's leaking, ask the mechanic to reseal it rather than buying a whole new one. Good luck
  • jmineerjmineer Member Posts: 3
    Hi

    I recently fixed a problem with shoddy Walmart labor installed tires. They shook the front end for awhile until I figured out the problem. SO I had it fixed. Now I noticed a vibration that seems to be under my feet. I can feel the vibration through the steering wheel. It only happens when the van is moving. So it could be an axle or something that rotates. It has gotten worse and very noticeable. Does this sound like a bad axle or wheel bearing? I can usually do the work myself but haven't done any in years. Thanks.

    2003 Silhouette.
  • matabravamatabrava Member Posts: 1
    I have my van for over 5 years, and was happy with, but about a month ago the car started stalling. the problem is intermitent, and some times I for several days without problems, then it starts again. lately the it is stalling more frequently. I have taken the car to the mechanic several times and they cannot diagnose the problem because the car does not stall while it is there, however as soon as I pick up the car and drive for about a mile os the car stalls again. I took the car to Chrisswell Chevrolet Dealer they could not find the problem either, but suggested that the problem might be the fuel pump, and as soon as I left the car lot and drove about a mile and half the car stalled again. I had it towed to the mechanic to replace the fuel pump. Cost me about $700 bucks, and did not solve the problem. anyone has any idea as to what might be the problem?
  • jmineerjmineer Member Posts: 3
    edited January 2011
    There is a great product that I can recommend to you. It is a scanner tool that you plug into the van and into a laptop. You can monitor, troubleshoot, and control many things about the van. It'll tell you what's wrong with it. I personally have it and it really works. You can do this from the driver's seat and even drive it while running the diagnostics.

    http://www.amazon.com/Crescent-OBD2-Multi-Protocol-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B001MT0- - XPK/ref=pd_sim_e_2
  • bob550kbob550k Member Posts: 148
    Our 99 has had a stalling problem a couple of times. Each time it was a bad idler pully or a tensioner pully. They get stiff and cause the car to stall at very low speed or idle. Super cheap to fix.
  • cwoodmancwoodman Member Posts: 1
    I had the some problem with a 2000. Mine was loose wiring at a junction under the sliding door on the drivers side. It was effecting the fuel pump.
  • nltsavednltsaved Member Posts: 1
    car-part.com
    I FOUND THE 3RD ROW BENCH SEAT FROM THIS WEBSITE IT WILL TELL YOU ALL OF THE PLACES THAT HAVE IT NEAR YOU AND AWAY FROM YOU.
    I WAS LUCKY MY SEAT WAS 2 MILES AWAY AFTER 2 WEEKS OF NON STOP LOOKING . SOME ONE IN ANOTHER FORUM GAVE ME THIS SITE AND IT WAS MAGIC. AND BY THE WAY VENTURES,AND MONTANA'S ARE INTERCHANGEABLE WITH THE SILHOUETTE'S . GOOD LUCK
  • bob550kbob550k Member Posts: 148
    edited April 2011
    We just let the 99 Silhouette Premiere go after nearly 10 years of ownership. This was a good car, it held up great, still looked and drove excellent (no fading, no dents, no rust, no tears, low cost for repairs, a little maintenance until 122,000 miles that's when the transmission gave it up, that cost plenty but after just normal repairs I just couldn't complain... Until about 500 miles later the head gaskets gave up at 122,800... Again, this car was cheap to run and so durable that I kept it for nearly 10 years, so doing some repairs at the end was fine in my book.

    When I first bought the car someone posted how I would get beaten down on resale because I should have bought an Odyssey. I would love to hear the final comparo from him. I paid $18,000 for the car (I never even put rear brake shoes on this thing), ran it from 22,000 miles to nearly 129,000 miles. Sold it to the first person that waived green at me for $2,800. I realize I could have gotten more, but I'm more than happy for that young family that got that immaculate, garage kept car so cheap.

    I really wonder how much better I would have done had I sprung the extra $8,000 - $10,000 for a similar used Ody after 10 years.... :)
  • 99cursemobile99cursemobile Member Posts: 1
    Got my olds about 5 years ago. Check Engine problems off and on until about 3 years ago this past spring I had a new Jasper engine put in. A few months later I had the trans "rebuild" done which I'm still not sure they really did. Ran fine till last fall. Started the engine light then one merry day started to over heat. Well I stopped the car pulled over and had it moved. Dead engine. Not even that many miles on it. Found out it was still under Jaspers warranty and took it over Feb this year. After many long delays (one man shop blah blah excuse blah) I just got it back tonite. Started up great! Then... not 2 miles later the check engine light came on. Got gas in it (had a 3/4 tank but thats old gas from last fall now added startron too) but with all that on start up it makes a horrible noise. Engine runs smooth. We're thinking possibly the transmission now! Again! Well that fix is long out of warranty and the engine fix was covered by jasper or it would still be parked. Any thoughts? Suggestions? I'm thinking shed at this point? Lol Its the deluxe model leather/power/vhs player etc... THe engine alone is worth 2k I'd hate it kill another engine for the sake of saving the van but if its a simple fix.">link title
  • jmineerjmineer Member Posts: 3
    It doesn't sound like an engine problem. Obviously the shop didn't find a problem with the engine. Like always, the problem comes back after your driving. If the Check Engine likght is coming on, then its obvious that a code is being sotred. Possibly a sensor or something is going bad and that can cause major trouble with this vehicle. I bought a cable box to hook up to the silhouette and the USB on my laptop. I can check codes with the van on or off. This is what you need to have hooked up while the van is running. I paid $50 for it on Amazon. Its a must have item for this lemon. Not a very good van at all. The transmissions is these things are junk.
  • tyrone1521tyrone1521 Member Posts: 1
    2001 oldsmobile silhoeete 3.4L engine.how can i rethread the spark plug w/o removing the head on the back side of engine.
  • miniwrenchminiwrench Member Posts: 3
    Simple disconnect the front 2 stabilizer mounts, rock the vehicle when the engine is far enough from the fire wall ( have somebody in the vehicle so they can step on the E brake to stop the movement) and you will be able to access the rear a lot easier. Also remove alternator it will be easier in this position.

    Good luck
  • miniwrenchminiwrench Member Posts: 3
    Is your engine light on if yes is it giving you any engine codes, also check your mass airflow sensor
  • miniwrenchminiwrench Member Posts: 3
    http://www.performancechipsdirect.com/Oldsmobile/Silhouette/
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Our temp. gauge recently went into the red zone when my wife was parked with our 2001 Olds Silhouette running at a convenience store during this hot summer weather. When she got the van safely home after letting it cool down, I ran it in idle and quickly realized that neither of the electric cooling fans were operating, even with the A/C on. Bad news.

    So I get out my Haynes manual and start troubleshooting. The wiring harnesses to the fans are fine. The 3 relays are all tested and are good. Fuses to the fans are good. I ran a grounded 12 volt from a trickle charger to the individual fans at the harness and they both turned on, so the fans themselves are good. I decided to take it to a trusted local auto A/C shop to see if it was related to the compressor.

    The A/C shop said all A/C components were good, but they could not fix it because it was beyond their scope of expertise and charged us $50 for the diagnostic time.

    Not having much electrical background, I then take the van to a certified independent mechanics shop (that I have used before) and have the auto electrical "expert" look at it. He comes back with an opinion that the fuse block is bad and it should be replaced with another one. He states that he can only get used ones for $200-$250 from salvage yards, so no guarantee with the part. His estimate to get another fuse block, replace ours, and maybe fix the problem is $500-$600. I pass and pay him $150 for the "extensive" diagnostic time they spent on our van.

    At this point I decide that I'm going to learn about electrical circuits and dive into the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual and also do a thorough web search on this issue. I quickly come to a second wiring diagram for these fans that appears to be from either a GM service manual or another DIY source. Here is that diagram (thanks to the author for this effort):

    http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/engine-cooling-system.html

    I realize that I can take apart the fuse block. The bottom three modules are held to the top of the block with screws. I unscrew the module containing the grey and light blue fan electrical wires and I find both the female and male metal electrical connectors are black and the female ends are not likely to make good contact based on their slightly distorted shape . So I go to a local salvage yard/pull-apart and find a similar van and then cut out two good female electrical clips with 5"-6" of wire attached. The trick to getting these connectors out is to remove the secondary light blue slide-in plastic clip first and then use a very small (eyeglass repair) flat screwdriver to push the primary spring down that holds the female connectors in the plastic bay.

    I get home and remove/cut out the two bad female connectors from the module, clean the male contacts, insert the two new female connectors into the module, and butt splice the new connectors to the corresponding wires coming from the fans. Then I screw the module back into the fuse block, start the van, and the fans are RUNNING AGAIN with the A/C turned on. Hooray!

    I'm not sure why there was a short/poor connection to cause this problem. Maybe one or two bad connectors from the factory? Maybe too much amperage on this type of connector/bad design? Maybe something internal in the fuse block? It did take 11 years for the connection to finally fail. From an internet search, there seems to be a fair number or people who cannot solve this problem and have to hard wire the fans directly from the battery to get them to run. I was also prepared to fix it in that manner.

    So after the initial run around with mechanics who were not close to being experts, we spent a total of $3 for two used wiring connectors, some new butt splice connectors, and some electrical tape to fix our van. Most importantly, I learned quite a bit about vehicle electrical diagnosis and repair. Hope this info helps someone out there.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    I did this on my friend's '99 to get more access to the O2 sensor about 2 years ago. Just another FYI.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    My friend has a '99 Silhouette Premier with the self-leveling rear shocks that are just about shot. They are leaking and they are not going to last long. The van has over 206K on it and has had both the engine and transmission replaced over the years and last year the head gaskets were replaced too, so while it runs very well now, it hasn't been without its issues. My question is this: My friend is not going to spend nearly $500 dollars to replace the self leveling shocks when they finally go altogether. Can we go to an auto parts store and purchase normal shocks for this make and model with the hope that they'll act like regular shocks and won't cause a significant handling issue? In other words, will REGULAR replacement shocks work with this van? My local Auto Zone store told me that while he has these shocks in stock for a NON self leveling model, he told me to check with our local GM dealer to be sure. A Chevy dealer will do because this van is the same as the Venture and Pontiac Montana.

    Also, the temp gauge is not working the way it should and neither is the fuel gauge. My friend claims that there is a problem with the instrument cluster on that side(right side). Now the tach and speedometer and other things are fine, and I'm wondering if the fuel sending unit in the gas tank may be at fault. The temp gauge goes down to 0 when the van is shut off and when you start it, it seems to come up to temp normally, but then creeps up to just below the red marks, but this causes no problems and the cooling fans seem to work normally. My friend says he was told he'd need to replace the instrument cluster at a fairly good price to solve these problems and he's not going to do this, so he'll have to live with it. The gas gauge is what really bugs me. It just seems to go all over the place, one time it might be right at the full mark, and then it's at half or below. He's got a wacky formula that he uses so that he or his wife don't run out of gas. They multiply the number of gallons they buy by 18 and reset the trip meter and when they get near what they call the "magic" number, they get more gas(LOL)

    Sorry to be so long winded, but if any of you have any suggestions especially whether we can replace those auto shocks with regular ones, please let me know and thanks very much.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    I guess I'm answering my own post here, but today at a local NAPA auto parts store I stopped into for a different issue told me that they have a replacement OEM self leveling shock set for about $100 bucks. The guy couldn't say whether I could replace them with regular shocks, but I'm going to inform this van's owner about this and see where he wants to go with it.
  • greg787greg787 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2001 Olds Silhouette. Just like yours, relays, fuses and fans all work. The junction fuse block seems to me what I should look at. Thanks for all the info.
    Greg
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Glad I could help. Post back with your results when fixed.

    One thing that I didn't mention is the bottom of the fuse block should have a black plastic cover/splash guard that snaps into place. Ours was missing and I'm not sure when it was removed or if it was ever on the van from the dealer, where we bought it new. I got another one at the junk yard.

    Our van had over $4K in dealer performed GM warranty repairs in the first 5 years (extended warranty came with all new Olds vehicles in mid to late '01). We will run this van for another 10 years, assuming that the head gasket and tranny don't fail. I might even tackle the head gasket myself.

    We do like the van for its size, interior space, and ride, but it's very high maintenance! So much potential existed for improving upon this great basic design (large inside-small footprint outside- lighter than competitors- fuel efficient), but alas, GM just gave up and moved on to SUVs.
  • bonebrakebonebrake Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    My CC was working friday, now monday it doesn't. I noticed all the posts about the brake light issue so I ran out and bought brake lights. Put them in and they still don't work and neither does the CC. Any Ideas? (mechanically challenged)

    2003 olds silhouette
  • cluke78cluke78 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 oldsmoblie silhouette and i have a wobble at low speeds and also a roaring noise coming from the front end. i replaced the cv joint on the right side last night and thought that was the problem becuase the cv joint was throwing grease but the same thing is going on this morning. can some one help?
  • numbuh16numbuh16 Member Posts: 1
    I have an Oldsmobile Silhouette '03. Been doing assorted jobs (previous owner busted out the rear window with a hammer, busted the taillight out with the hammer, used a corrosive chemical on the headlight causing a small hole, replaced the radiator and cooling system since they used the wrong anti-freeze, and so on) to bring it back to being a decent, legal vehicle, but...

    A couple of months ago, I suddenly lost the 5th fan setting on the A/C dual climate control. When it's on 0, it runs as if it's on 1. I've replaced the climate control (not exactly cheap), but it didn't resolve the issue. Both climate controls were checked and are working properly, so I'm a little lost. Not particularly my strong point.

    Any idea what it could be? What's the next step?

    I'd appreciate any input anyone could offer. Thanks in advance!
  • dan325dan325 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 olds silhouette . I am trying to find the heating module for the front seats .
  • mikejayemikejaye Member Posts: 1

    The driver's power seat on my 2003 Silhouette Premiere has quit working. Fuses are both good. What is my next step?

  • daveeedaveee Member Posts: 1
    rawah said:

    Folks,

    Does anyone have the specs for the OLDS Silhouette (1998) premium sound? OLDS dealer does not have access, Olds customer service is of no help - refered me to Delco. Delco will not provide to a retail customer.

    Any ideas? Cheers

    you can find some specs on the computer. Can you be more specific as to what kind of specs? tune up? liquids and fluids, Features? Rebuild specs ---- What?
  • gordonfan24_7gordonfan24_7 Member Posts: 1
    This is the purge canister vacuum switch on my 1997 Silhouette. Can anyone tell me where the middle (smallest) port connects to. When I went to replace it it wasn't connected to anything. I believe that's the reason for the P1441 DTC I'm getting.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Isn't there an emissions diagram for this on the inside hood of your vehicle?
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