Oldsmobile Silhouette

mobilmac · April 2002

and my vehicles was on its 3rd set of rotors and pads. 95% of the miles were highway miles without abrupt stopping. No problem with rear shoes. I was concerned about the frequency of pad/rotor replacement. Make sure when you get pads replaced, they put the premium ones on your vehicle. They cost $50 a set and well worth it. These absorb more of the heat with less wear on the rotors. They were not always available for the silo/gm triplets. The rotors don't have much room for error, by the time you turn them one time, they are out of the safe limit for use. Always have them checked on a micrometer.

sweingast · April 2002

Don't blame your neighbor, he is right.

The trade in lowers the sales tax charged by the state. If the vehicle he is buying costs $20,000 and he is getting $14,000 for the trade, he pays sales tax on the $6,000 he is actually paying (in cash) to the dealer rather than the $20,000 for the cost of the new vehicle.

Taxes always change behavior.

mobilmac · April 2002

buying the most expensive is not always the best, I'm not knocking michelins in paticular, consumers report did a grand job on tires, showing the different grades of tires don't have be high dollar premies to fare excellent. They were right on the money about the firestone fr360 that came standard on my van, and generals came last in all levels. Check out the november 2001 issue of consumer reports. The company i worked for had a small fleet of mini vans, which they had a contract with a service center for tires, we had problems all the time with tires, and they were high dollar rubber. After reading that article, i asked if we could try some of the top rated midline and economy tires on a couple of vans.
They allowed it, and i got to see how accurate the report was.

dmathews3 · April 2002

God, must be nice to live in a state like that. Here in Michigan we pay full taxes and pay, and pay somemore. Didn't think about that when I posted the earlier post.

shifty4 · May 2002

I also had water in headlight problems which enentually resulted in entire headlight lens falling off. This required replacement of entire right headlight unit at cost of $285. I put a bead of epoxy around the lens of the other headlight. This problem is reported by others on the NHTSA board as well.
This is the only problem I have had with my Silo in nearly 5 years of ownership. Otherwise it is a great van.

dirkdaddy · May 2002

as previously reported the glue on these lamps is defective. It cracks and gets hard, losing its grip. you can pry off the lens assembly (carefully), clean out the lights, srape off the old hard white adheisive, then reassemble with caulk or GOOP adheisive. Some drill holes in the bottom to vent moisture, but I have not tried that yet and it seems like it would attract moisture & mold here in Houston. FYI, not sure of the quality, but you can order replacement headlight (everything but the bulb and holder) from Jc Whitney for I think it was about $200 for two.

Dirkdaddy

montanafan · May 2002

$85.60 each from GM Dealers, as I recall.

shifty4 · May 2002

Thanks for the info on 97 Silo headlight lenses. I just recently found the Edmunds forums while researching new cars. I bought a Cadillac CTS. The lesson learned from reviewing these forums is that there are no really unique car problems. If you have a problem at least a half dozen others have exactly the same problem, in spite of dealers denial that it exists.

jpnmass · May 2002

A couple of weeks back I posted that I put a deposit on a new Silo Premier. Well it came in and of course it's not the exact car I discussed with the dealer. No 6 CD in dash but it has the towing package. I requested they install the factory 6 CD changer and they agree but they need to check to make sure it fits and works with the speakers, etc. I can't see why not, it's not a Bose so everything should be OK. The contract specifically states the 6 CD changer in the price. Anyone have experience with the towing package. I have no use for towing, but I hear it also includes a better radiator. Does anyone know if the suspension is stiffer at all? I really don't wan't a firmer ride. I will be driving it tomorrow to see if it feels different than the non-towing version.

bcd99 · May 2002

My 2000 Silo has the trailer pkg and I don't think it rides any different then the non-trailer pkg one. I think the real difference is the tranny fluid cooler and a larger radiator and the plug in wire harness for the trailer lights. Make a bit of fuss regarding the fact you really did not ewant a trailer pkg and see what the dealer gives you to make you happy. Good luck!

ronsmith38 · May 2002

I took my 2000 Silhouette in for service (oil/filter, air & fuel filters, and some warranty items - flickering cabin lights, and a rattle in the dash. They did not have the part for the cabin lights TSB. During the trip home from the dealer (very good service up to now) with my wife driving, the car started to accelerate wildly. By the time she got home the engine had over heated to near the red line, and the brakes no longer worked. The brakes probably failed due to over use trying to slow down the car. The car was towed back to the dealer, and was there 2 days before they said it was ok. They said they installed the flickering lights TSB (a connector on the alternator) , and checked/tightened many connections, but no real defining fix. They test drove it for 38 miles. Any thoughts on this? I am a little afraid the problem might return.

dirkdaddy · May 2002

Sounds like the throttle got stuck open, or driver error (possibly). Even if the computer went bad and had the fuel injectors spray more fuel, the engine wouldn't produce a lot of power w/out the throttle being open. Only the cruise control might hold the throttle open, and that is usually defeated by the brake.

On the driver error, I have noticed the brake and throttle are fairly close and on occassion I've felt the throttle pedal catch my foot when I'm braking, so that could happen. If she was in panic mode, maybe she wouldn't move her foot the whole way home.

I almost bought a '00 Intrepid but they all had flickering lights, but my '98 Olds Silo doens't have them.

Hope that helps.

Dd

redavis1952 · May 2002

Greetings from The Bahamas. I have just purchased my 1st vehicle over the internet this past week. We had a 98 Venture LS I purchased at 18 months old with 90,000 miles. Have had great service from it and now have over 130,000 miles.

Based on this we needed a vehicle in the USA while we have 3 boys in college (all of us are over 6'). I wanted side airbags, ABS, and reasonable size instead of economy only.

Found a 1999 Silo GLS with 114,000 miles and have not seen yet (only pix over internet). Fly to the USA to buy and drive to Pennsylvania.

The factor prompting me to buy this was price. After searching south Florida papers, AutoTrader, eBAY, Edmunds, Kelly Blue Book, etc., I agreed to pay $8600 total. Unit will need new tires, but I am assured all other mechanicals are fine, and a 3 day warranty for testing is provided.

Other than brakes, transmission, and water leaks at rearAnything else I should look for?

dirkdaddy · May 2002

Good luck on your purchase! Given the crap-shoot that used cars sometimes are and your experiences with the similar Chevy, this isn't as crazy it might sound!

See if the windshield is cracked, the foglights work (mine were broken when I bought it), all interior bits are there and work. Drive at high speed and it should be stable and steady. On a suitable road take your hands from the wheel slightly and see if it exhibits pull. Some roads are crowned a lot and that may cause some pull. When slowing down do you feel brake pulsations?

Have a mechanic check the coolant system for holding pressure, air filter, oil quality & levels, battery condition, steering rack, suspension etc. This will give you a general idea of how it was maintained. The shocks or front suspension might require work with those Pennsylvania roads! They also can get a lot of snow so when on the rack have the mech note any rust.

I also recommend a good tire. My van has sears Michelin's on it when I got it, which are pricy but wear very well and really hold the road. BFG also makes a good tire. This makes a huge difference on every drive as well as safety.

Let us know how you do.

DD

jrdwyer · May 2002

I've read that US car makers are cracking down on the trade of Canadian cars brought into the US and resold. Since I own a 2001 Silo GL, I was curious as to the price of a similar model in Canada. How SHOCKED I was. Our van which had a MSRP of about $26,655 here (Indiana) has a sticker of $33,730 CAN or $21,992 US in Canada. Would I drive with my wife up to Windsor, Ontario to save $4,663 if I could? You bet, a nice vacation. So the question is "Are people doing this, Is it legal? As far as voiding the warranty, some people might accept no warranty if they could save 4-7K on the price of a vehicle. Our van has been trouble free for its first 9 months and we are very pleased with it.

stever · May 2002

The usual issues brought up include:

Warranty may not be honoured for a "gray market" car (as you noted). You could buy an aftermarket warranty.

Speedo/odometer will be metric and you may have to sign a mileage disclosure upon resale about the "actual" number of miles, and possibly scare off buyers. This may not be an issue if you don't change out the speedo to miles, but most US drivers and future buyers would prefer miles to km's I'd guess.

Your local DMV may hassle you a bit about the emissions rules, but there's likely a label on the hood that shows it meets US EPA regs. Otherwise a letter can be obtained from the manufacturer.

You'll have to pay Canadian taxes, but they are refundable. But it may take a few weeks to get the refund, and you want to be sure you have your paperwork lined up.

You may have trouble buying one if a dealer is concerned that GM will find out and jerk the franchise or cut his allocations or something. Of course Olds is going by the wayside, so that should be a non-starter.

Your Canadian vehicle may have all sorts of weird options, like a heavy duty charging system, block heater, and heated seats. That would be awful ;-)

The Nissan guys did quite a bit of this before Nissan clamped down a couple of months ago. Anyone here tried it with a GM or other make?

Steve
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mmossler1 · May 2002

After much research in determining what Minivan (Wife wanted 4x4 SUV) to purchase, I settled on anyone of the GM Triplets. They seemed to offer the features that matter most to my family situation. ( 2 children still in carseats) In March of this year I purchased a 2001 Chevy Venture LT In Canada. It has the rear air, power door, traction control, air suspension and captains chairs (Boys no longer are within reach of each other:)).

The van had 22,500 kilometers or about 13,200 miles.. After all fees were paid the cost was $16,500 US, plus New York State sales tax (8%).
The closest van I could find in the US with similar equipment was 2001 Olds with 24,000 miles on it for $19,600.

Things to know when purchasing a GM Vehicle in Canada....

GM warranty is a North American one, it is good at any GM Dealer, provided the Vehicle has been titled in Canada for at least 6 months. New vehicles, ie 2002, would not have GM Warranty.

My van had to paid for in Canadian funds. I shopped around for the best exchange rates. The difference was almost $600 from best to worst rates.

Normally Canadians are charged PST & GST, because the van was not going to by registered in Canada, I needed only to pay GST. This is refunded in US Dollars from Revenue Canada, it took 6 weeks to receive the check.

Had to pay $10 plate fee in order drive the van from Canada to the US. It was good for 10 days. I live 45 minutes from the dealer.

Insurance had to be set up before Canadian dealer would allow the van to leave the lot. This is no different than a New York state dealer.

Upon exiting Canada, had to stop at the Duty Free facility in order to validate GST Rebate form. They needed an original copy of the sales invoice showing how much GST was paid and had to see the van.

The van had to be cleared through US Customs. This required the sales invoice declaring the value of the van(This is what New York state used to set sales tax). Also a form from the manufacture stating this vehicle meets EPA emission requirements. GM charges $60 Canadian for
this letter which can be paid for via credit card and fax to you within 30 minutes (I made the dealer pay for this). There are no duties for this van.. You can check the US Customs website to determine which vehicles must pay duties. Also, there are several cross border importer companies (again listed on the US Customs website) who will charge you to complete the proper paperwork in order to bring a vehicle into the US. The rates I was quoted ranged from $250-$350.

I had the odometer changed to miles, cost $150, it took 30 minutes at a local company. It would have been $125 if I had used the company to import my vehicle.

The New York state DMV required a completed form from US Customs verifying that the vehicle meets US EPA requirements. US Customs completes the form and there is no charge for this. I registered the vehicle. I had ten days to get a NYS Inspection, which is normal. My title took nearly 6 weeks to get from NYS.

I have been to the local dealer once so far. The Service Engine light came and would not go off. It turned out to be a computer that detected a system that was 10% off or more. It was reset and no problems. The van ran fine even with the light on. I did have to show the dealer the invoice for the new instrument cluster stating what the kilometers converted to miles was. The van's vin number was in GM system showing the kilometers.

Sorry about the lenghty post, but it took a long time to figure out how to complete the transaction. I estimate that had close to 100 hours invested in researching which vehicle to purchase, searching for the van in Canada(Via the Web:)), and determining how to bring it into the US.

Was it worth it...Well I saved $3300 off the best deal I could do locally. Naturally my research time was FREE.

Wife now loves the Minivan, she cannot figure how anyone with children could do without it!

Only 2 issues remain... I have the light flicker of the dash & Headlights. I think there is a TSB about this. I changed the Oil on Saturday and noticed oil on the bottom of the engine near
the starter motor. Is this the mysterious bearing leak I have heard about?

stever · May 2002

Automakers Attack Canadian Market

Great post, Mmossler1 - thanks!

Steve
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redavis1952 · May 2002

Thanks for the input. I picked up the van in Dallas last Tuesday and drove it to Pennsylvania. Was surprised about the exterior/interior condition. No blemishes, no evidence of paint/body filler/accidents, Michelin tires worn evenly (only one was salvageable - plan to use as full size spare). Front rotors worn to within .001 within minimum. Installed Michelin X Plus tires, plus $9 road hazard, flat, rotate 7500 mile warranty from Sam's Club. Installed new front rotors + ceramic pads. Front end is tight, CV joints, suspension (self levelling with air pump).

I always check tires, wipers, etc, to see what care was given, and am impressed with this one. The only option missing was the LCD entertainment centre, plus the rear net by the liftgate was missing. Am impressed with the Olds Silo on the road. The air levelling makes a difference. The 4 captain's chairs + rear head sets should be nice travelling this summer to the Grand Canyon.

It isn't the Corvette my son wanted but should provide good transportation. I will add a trailer hitch (it has the towing package but no hitch)for a rear bike rack.

Thanks.

trader14 · May 2002

Steve - Interesting article citing the Caravan in terms of savings but I wonder if the same would apply to BMW's and Mercedes...what's your feeling on that?

Thanks, proud owner of 2002 Silo Premiere

stever · May 2002

Lots of US Nissan Pathfinder owners were going the Canadian route, but Nissan USA but the halt to that a month or two ago. Honda USA hasn't honoured the warranty on gray market Canadian cars for a long time.

So I guess the other manufacturers will be joining the bandwagon if they aren't already on board.

Steve
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bronzemist1 · June 2002

Hi all,
I'm posting this hoping someone can advise on it. Purchased 2002 Silhouette Premiere several weeks ago, and been generally happy with it. However, about a month after purchase, passenger side sliding power door became stuck in the closed position. After several tries with the remote key fob, it finally opened back up. Thought this was an isolated incident, but today it got stuck closed again, and I've yet to get it open. Has anyone else out there experienced this, and perhaps can offer a fix, or at least an explanation of what's going on? TIA

dirkdaddy · June 2002

Great news on your van! I think you'll enjoy it. I fell weird as a sort of gear-head talking about minivans but its a nice ride and great road vehicle. I think the self-leveling is a under-rated feature myself! I only wish the shocks had more dampening. I'm considering attempting to switch them out for gaberial hijackers, but will have to look at the air lines and compare to see how they'd fit.

Anyway, good to hear you're enjoying your Texas van. The vehicles down here are in good shape compared to when I lived in Maryland and Illinois.

DD

ps. power door woes - I have the shop manual on the power doors and there are about 30 pages on dignosing problems with the electric doors. There are some interlocks and switches that all have to be working right. Your van is under warrenty, take it back to be fixed -

DD

shifty4 · June 2002

I have a 97 Silo which had a safety recall about 6 months ago on the power door due to some of them opening while in motion. I don't know if this also applied to later models. I had to take mine back to the dealer twice with the symptoms you describe before they got it right. Bronzemist, Perhaps the recall was installed improperly on yours. Just a thought!

gordbert · June 2002

I have a 2001 Silhouette GLX and have noticed recently that the readout (from the Information Center) for fuel used when gassing up is always off by at least 1 gallon than the pump reading. Has anyone noticed this? How accurate is the van's meter?

jpnmass · June 2002

I have also noticed the same on my 2002 Premiere. The DIC indicates about 1 gallon less fuel used than actual. I've only had the van a month so it's only a small sample (3 times).

dmathews3 · June 2002

Checking the mpg by way of filling the gas tank is a hit or miss thing. Every pump shuts off the fuel at a different time, and then did you stop when the nozzle shut off, or did you pump somemore in. The size of the tank and hoses going from where you fill it to the tank also play a part. Have you ever noticed that if the gauge reads empty that you can pump in more gas than the tank holds. This all can play a part in how accurate your guess will be when you divide the gallons used to the mileage on the speedometer. Where the computer is using a flow meter that measures the amount of fuel going to the injectors/carb which should be a lot more accurate.

stever · June 2002

Pump in more gas than the tank holds? I keep close track of my gas purchases, and that's only happened to me once since 1982. If I hadn't been traveling cross-country, I would have pursued a claim against the gas station - I think they had "tweaked" the pump.

Any yeah, not good for my fuel pump probably, but I often see the little low gas light come on, so more than one of those fills has been with the gauge reading empty.

Should be easy enough for someone to test by keeping track both ways.

Steve
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bcd99 · June 2002

I believe low fuel light comes on a 2 gallons or so. If you fill the tank full to listed capacity I believe you still have capacity in fuel filler neck and such. Plus there is the small amount in the fuel lines and such between the tank and injectors.

gordbert · June 2002

I tried to fill consistently... such as always fill until the nozzle clicks off, and then top it off by clicking the nozzle (auto shutoff) 3 or 4 times. I understand the length of the nozzle and all, but it shouldn't be a gallon or more difference.

stever · June 2002

As an aside, with the newer vapor recovery systems in gas tanks, it's better to quit filling when you hear the first click. Or so I understand. Otherwise you may get gas in the recovery line gizmos and trigger the check engine light.

Sorry to be so technical :-)

Steve
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dirkdaddy · June 2002

Well, regarding the accuracy of the computer's fuel MPG system. Ours was just below 1/4 tank and wife took it to drive. The "range" setting indicated 180miles left on the tank. She said after about maybe at the most 40 miles of city/freeway driving the gas light came on, and then the fuel gage dropped while she was looking at it followed shortly thereafter by the engine konking out on the freeway! The computer estimated range also dropped like a brick in about 2miles from 80miles on down. I'm not sure what it ended at. What happened? Well, we have hot weather here in Texas and when she ran in to the grocery store to get milk I idled the van with AC running to keep my infant kid from overheating. I did this a couple of other times recently although I hate to waste the fuel it seemed necessary. I think this idling screwed up the "range" estimate. Either that or the fuel level sender stuck and then all of a sudden dropped to show the actual fuel level.

I have also compared the TC MPG to my manual method and came back with the computer giving consistantly .7 higher. If it was a "amount of fuel to fill" error, eventually if you did it constantly they would cancel themselves out, right? Overall its a neat feature.

Wife was near work and she called the motorpool guys she knows and they came with gas for her. I was hoping the towtruck idiots wouldn't take advantage of her perdicament.

I reminded her to use the fuel gauge, not the "range" - as that is an estimate! And I'm the one who usually is pushing the envelope on running out of fuel! We're tanking up a bit more conservatively now :~) - Steve, you may want to do so as well to avoid an avoidable screwup!

DD

stever · June 2002

My max range on an ordinary tank is a bit over 400 miles and I reset the trip odometer when I fill up. So I am pretty good about refilling with 80 to 100 miles of "range" left. It's unusual that I put more than 17 gallons in my 20 gal. capacity tank. I only get the low fuel light about every 6th fillup.

I ran out of gas several times on my last van, but haven't done so (yet!) with the '99. So I guess I'm learning :-)

Lots of people fill up at half-empty and claim it's better for the fuel pump and keeps sediment from getting sucked up. I figure by running to 1/4th tank or lower, I'm racking up miles with less weight in the van and thereby saving gas with my slightly better mpg. With the savings I can afford that new fuel pump, LOL.

Steve
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redsox5 · June 2002

I have a 99 Silo that has been trouble free until now. I have to fill the coolant reservoir every 6 weeks or so, and even when it's full, the low coolant light will come on and off. Now, the temperature gauge is starting to act up when the coolant light is off, but as soon as the temperature gets too high, the low coolant light comes on and the temperature drops again. No visible leakage, so I think it's all internal. It's at the shop right now, and all they said was that the system isn't holding pressure. They're replacing the radiator cap, but are recommending I bring it to the dealer. At 50,000 miles, I'm without a warranty. Anyone else have cooling system problems?

dirkdaddy · June 2002

I'm afraid others have had the same problem at about the same milage point as you. I have it myself at 70k on my '98. The culprit is usually the intake manifold gasket leaking. Unfortunately, it can be fairly pricy to fix. I'm just adding coolant to mine every month. I'm hoping GM comes up with program to pay for it, its an obvious problem with the gasket or design.

Anyone have trouble after theirs was fixed? Just curious.

Scott

indrgb · June 2002

Good question DD. The gasket on my 2000 was replaced about 2 months ago under warranty. I caught it very early by noticing some fluid stains running down the end of the block. I did not notice coolant loss. The big question is what is the root cause. If its poor assembly, then maybe the replacement will be okay. If its a material compatibility issue with the gasket and dexcool, then I hope GM addressed the problem with the new gasket. If they didn't, then we will all be replacing them again.

69cad · July 2002

I have a 1999 Silhouette with 40,000 miles that I bought new. I have always noticed since it was new that it shifted very rough. I worry that this will be a problem in the future. Any transmission problems with this van? I also notice occasionally that when I have to floor it in an emergency situation, I hear the engine rev up, but the car does not really seem to lunge forward much. Then when I slowly accelerate, it seems to accelerate easily. I love this van and plan to keep it for years, but I worry that there might be problems from this rough shifting that might me consider trading it now before I have to face the problem.

dirkdaddy · July 2002

The first thing to do is check trans fluid level (park, motor running). Given your problems, I'd go ahead and get the fluid and filter changed. And if you have some warrenty still in force document the problem and see what happens. If it still is happening, start saving for a transmission rebuild. Personally I'd get mine rebuilt than swap with someone else's rebuilt core, but that's just me.

I need to do mine at 72k but have been putting it off, as I have other large projects I'm working on at home!

oldsfirst · July 2002

I have a 2001 silo and again, second time in 24,000 miles, have had the serpentine belt replaced due to a belt squeal when turning left.
But tonight I noticed that the squeal didn't go away this time, replaced yesterday. Technician at dealership says he doesn't know what is causing the squeal.
Anyone have similar problems????????

blondy45us · July 2002

I've currently got a '94 Astro AWD minivan, along with a 12' Coleman tent camper (GVW of 3000#). With three kids (6, 4, and 5 mos), my wife is liking the idea of a 4-door minivan to replace the Astro. I'm partial to GM (supplier discount and GM Card $$), but have also looked at the Town & Country. My question....can someone share their experience on using the Silo to pull a camper? We typically take weekend jaunts in Wisconsin, but would like to expand into some Colorado/Montana trips, so mountains could be in the future. I'm afraid of getting into something under-powered and being forced to get a second car pmt going to replace my car with a more suitable tow vehicle (Envoy, Yukon, etc).

Thanks for your help!
Blondy

dmathews3 · July 2002

I don't think you will get the real answer to your question. I pulled a 34 foot 5th wheel for many years and used the big block 454 and even the 460 Ford and going through the mountains they both barely got the job done in my opinion. Now the guy I worked with had a 30 foot fiver and pulled it with a at the time 300 cu.in. Ford 6. He was quite happy with it and said he didn't need anything bigger. He went south one year and going through some mountains could only do 20 on the incline but said so what, "I'm in no hurry." My point not only was it big time wear and tear on the Truck, but he was a hazard to everyone else on the highway. So when you ask that question, you may get the answers you want to hear, but are they the right answers for you. Only way you will ever know for sure is to buy and try or find someone who has one that can take your rig for a pull with you along. Good luck.

dirkdaddy · July 2002

Built for economy and grocery getting, today's minivans are not "overbuilt" and are not going to excel at trailer towing. BUT, you trailer is small, and if you don't have the van maxed out with gear and you're not expecting normal performance, you'll be ok. ON very mountainous terrain, even a Silo w/o a trailer would be straining a bit, so adding a trailer will slow you down - how much depends on the weight.

Occassional use, I'd say its fine, but like there was a guy on the Buick RDVous list who was going to pull 3000lb trailer regularly and I told him he'd be unhappy and to get a trailblazer or something built a little heavier with a more powerful motor.

DD

skgorman · July 2002

Have a 2001 Silhouette. Two concerns. The automatic door closes with such force it's only a matter of time before someone breaks a finger or a hand. Can the closing force be adjusted? My dealer does not have a clue.

Additionally, twice this past week the van has decided to lock it self. One time with the keys inside. I had closed the door and walked eight feet away and heard the central locks lock. The lights did not blink. Any one else having this problem?

indrgb · July 2002

I agree that the power doors have to much closing force. There will probably be a recall some day. Sorry, but I'm not sure how to adjust them.

Regarding the auto locking, if you use the last door closed feature (or something like that in the manual) the doors will automatically lock a few seconds after you close the last open door. But, you have to press the lock button to activate it. After you press the button you will hear three chimes and then the doors will lock a few seconds after you close the last door. Check your manual for more details. If they lock by themselves without pressing the button, I suspect a bad switch or short in the wiring.

jpnmass · July 2002

I have a 2002 Silo Premier. The sliding doors do close forcefully but when they meet resistance they re-coil before putting enough presuure to break a hand/leg, etc. My opinion, but I think they are designed pretty well.

letsgetmikey · July 2002

My O1 Silo has decided that the power locks will no longer will lock or unlock the liftgate.

I can only lock or unlock it with the key lock on the liftgate itself. If I lock the van with either the remote or the door switch, all other doors will "clunk" locked, but I can open the liftgate, which of course sets off the alarm, much to the amusement of the neighbors...

Looks like a trip to a surviving olds dealer is in order...

Any ideas?

Mikey

dirkdaddy · July 2002

see title. DD

deepan · July 2002

do you have an aftermarket alarm that while arming itself locks the doors. We had one in our sienna and one of the options was for all doors to lock if left unlocked for a certain time. I was locked out twice in one day!!. Disabled it and now have to manually activate the alarm and the doors lock automatically.

bigfig · July 2002

My 2000 Silhouette GLS which has 24000 miles recently started having a jerking or sluggish feeling when accelerating between 50-60. Noticed this recently when returning from our vacation. I don't think that I got bad gas on the trip since it has continued to do the jerking even though I have used gas from my regular station since returning home. I have been using Chevron 87 octane and on my last fill-up switch to 89 octane to see if that would solve the problem. Has anyone experienced this problem? My oil change should be coming up very soon and will mention this to the service manager.

dirkdaddy · July 2002

You might be experiencing transmission problems. The torque converter locks up for fuel economy and performance after shifts, and that can be felt as a slight push forward. that might be part of what you're feeling.

Check the RPM's when its jerking and see what that's doing as a clue.

DD

Oldsmobile Silhouette

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