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Cadillac DeVille

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Comments

  • aromero975aromero975 Member Posts: 1
    I have recently bought a 99 deville and within a couple of weeks the car overheated and the dealership had to replace head gaskets and bolts. Now the car idles bad when first started then seems to run fine after fifteen minutes or so. The check coolant level light has also came on twice in the last two weeks causing me to have to put more coolant in. i am hoping that my gaskets are not going out again and am hoping it could be something alot cheaper to fix.
  • presdevillepresdeville Member Posts: 1
    I am just wondering if you were able to get the front door panels off?
    I own a 2000, and i can't figure it out.
  • bluespwr101bluespwr101 Member Posts: 1
    Need to replace "Select" radio station modual on steering wheel. Or Not.
    Issue- select station- up, and down functions properly.
    Modual doen not light up when lights are engaged.
    How do I disassemble wheel for replacement?
    Where do I locate part (modual)?
    Dealer only?
    Discribe replacement process-am mechanically inclined (LOL)? :shades:
  • anagnianagni Member Posts: 2
    I READ SOME OF YOUR REPLIES AND WAS WONDERING WHERE IN FLORIDA DID YOU PURCHASE YOU DE VILLE??/ I LIVE IN DAYTONA BEACH.ALSO, I'M LOOKING TO BUY A 2002 DEVILLE DHS WITH 70.000 MILES,AND WAS WONDERING WHAT THE GOLD PACKAGE IS WORTH. THE CAR HAS A CARRIAGE TOP, SPOILER, VOGUE TIRES AND GRILL THAT START WITH THE LETTER B. THEY WERE AT $10,000 NOW THERE AT 9.000,ITS A PRIVATE DEAL. THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP
  • bremertongbremertong Member Posts: 436
    I had the chance to buy a 2002 Deville with 29,000 miles for over 80% below the when new price. I have a two car garage and have a DTS and Lincoln Town Car parked in it.

    I previously had my Devilles garaged and wondered how much more wear and tear leaving the 2002 outside will take on the car. The climate here is very mild with temperatures going below freezing only about 40 days of the winter and almost never going below 20
    degrees at night. Our summers here are also mild with temperatures rarely going above 70 degrees.

    The car was bought to drive in rainy weather and short errands. My expectation in buying the car and leaving it outside was that it will not take to much extra wear and tear given the climate described above.

    If there are other Deville owners that have their cars parked outside it would be helpful to have tips on how to deal with leaving this car out in the elements or any extra maintenance tips to keep car at maximum performance.

    All comments and suggestions appreciated.
  • albjerrygalbjerryg Member Posts: 1
    While driving my 2005 Deville the bell will go off and no Icons come up on the display. I have stopped the car closed all doors and checked the seat belt but it will just keep ringing until I stop and turn off the engine and turn it back on. It does not happen often but now and again. any ideas..Thanks Jerry
  • hotrod8983hotrod8983 Member Posts: 1
    Let me start by saying I had a new torque converter and lockout solenoids replaced on my '01 deville to rectify the previous 0741 code. Approximately 8 months later, I noticed the tranny slamming into gear when accelerating from a stoplight, but only when the tranny was hot. The SES light has come on a couple of times, (0741 code), but at least 2 months apart. A new bulletin came out recently regarding such syptoms, and the shops are asked to inspect the valve bodies and fluid channels for hairline cracks, which are causing internal pressure drops at idle and therefore causing the torque converter to intermittantly disengage. Once you step on the gas, the pump is able to restore the pressure and bang it goes into gear. On the plus side, it isn't causing the clutches or torque converter to slip, so no internal damage is being done. But it sure is annoying as all get out.
  • cadillakincadillakin Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I just bought a 02 deville DHS. Sunroof and interior lights did not work. Checked all fuses, under hood and under seat, all good. There was a non looking factory wire, one red one white. each with a larger 3 amp fuse one running to the mini fuse and the red running to the body. The white wire was attached to the fuse and the other end was disconnected. We gave it a try and hooked the white wire back up and it blew the sunroof fuse, replaced fuse but disconnected the wire. For some reason the sunroof works now and the interior lights, but my speedometer and rpm gauge and turn signals wont work and the info display gives incorrect readings when fuel is full. The temp and fuel are apparently still working. Cant figure it out. Thanks for any info
  • lildeuce1943lildeuce1943 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 caddi deville. with 68000 miles. the other day i drove about 20 miles to a different town to go shopping and when i came out the store i noticed my right headlight lens was missing i went to auto zone and they said that those lens aint never susposed to come off and to get a new assembly they wanted $199 for 1 i went on ebay and got 2 brand new headlight assembly for $147.70
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Wow, you are responding to a message 5 1/2 years old. I'm probably the only person that ever hangs around that long to read a message response that old.

    Yea, I know, you can buy headlight modules on eBay much cheaper. If I remember, I think I just epoxyed the lens back in place, the one that was completely loose. I may have pried the other one off and epoxyed it back also.

    That white 97 is long gone.

    But the wife continued to bi*cH about wanting a Cadillac. So, we now have a 2005. And she is looking at a 2008..... I don't know what will ever make her happy??????
  • mike467mike467 Member Posts: 2
    02 Deville DHS,62,000 mileage: When new, 20 mpg local/26mpg highway. Now, 17mpg local \ 22mpg highway. Took car to three garages, including the dealer and the computer checks show no problems. What do I do next to get the mpg back to original??? Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    My wild guess - ethenol in our gasoline. I have three cars. 2005 Cadillac, 2006 Ridgeline truck, 2007 Corvette.

    Each car has dropped about 2mpg, highway and city milage, since our state went to ethenol in the gas.

    Ethenol is a total failure, but it is totally political. And none of the media will give coverage to the problems with its usage. So, we are stuck with it.

    Any 'savings' of gasoline is totally wiped out because of the reduced milage.
  • mike467mike467 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response, I guess that the environment is more important than saving gas.
  • westcoastcaddywestcoastcaddy Member Posts: 1
    My problems with my car at first was my radio cutting out if i have on to much electrical stuff as in lights air conditioner, etc. then the anti lock light on my dash which wen it first comes on feel like its trying to lock my breaks up, I have also had my air conditioner get stuck on then a D shows up where the gas gauge is and air control is. now my car has a hard time starting up and wen i do turn it over it kills after running for a few seconds also i can be driving and the whole car will kill and after letting it sit for a while it will crank back up. also what is the inflatable restraint light for?

    Does anyone know how to fix any of these problems or have any idea wat is causing them?
  • landralandra Member Posts: 2
    Do not purchase cars at Orlando Auto Brokers located at Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando...they sell cars with broken motor, transmission, breaks, among other essential parts...they stole from me $3,300 dollars and refuse to fix or exchange the auto's transmission, which I found out was completely damaged within a week from purchase. They did not offer payable guarantee at time of purchase. Pass this info around so business that commit fraud do not continue this doing.
  • chrisptown1chrisptown1 Member Posts: 41
  • chrisptown1chrisptown1 Member Posts: 41
    am looking @'05 Deville 51k miles from Cad. dealer. veh. had 2 owners 1 lease 1 private. is loaded with m/roof sat. radio coolled seats 16" chrome wheels.dealer asking $16.5. which is $2-3.5K over Edmunds, Kbb and Nade. In looking at postings on the forums i see very few if any 2005's being listed with problems. any thoughts i would be giving up '02 park av. 83k pretty much problem free right now. guess i've always wanted a Caddy.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    We've got a 2005 Deville. Bought it off a 3 year lease in 9/2007.

    It's had a coolant leak in the 'crossover' pipe (now sure of this name, it's a solid connector on left side of the motor (actual rear of the motor) that moves coolant between the heads. Took 3 or 4 days to fix that.

    The heat had never been right, but last year it was totally cold. This took 3 trips to repair. I think 3 actuator door motors and the complete dash control unit were replaced. It still doesn't heat like it should. Previous Devilles would start throwing heat in a few blocks - this one is slow to heat up.

    One tire pressure monitor was bad, but I think this is because the car has one miss-matched wheel/tire on it - one from a salvage probably. Seems like there was something else, but don't remember.

    Ah, pulled the file. Front impact sensor bad. Left outside mirror directional signal out, replaced and painted entire mirror (this was bad when we bought the car). Oh, looks like a previous pressure monitor was replaced. Loose switch on memory seats.

    Cadillac history indicates before we bought it, it had a leaking water pump replaced, resurfaced all 4 disk and replaced front pads and put one new tire on it (driven low on air and ruined). I think this was done at dealership after they bought at auction and before we bought. I've had to replace a tire. I think whoever leased the car ignored tire pressures.

    It had 37,000 when we bought it in 9/2007. Has about 53,000 now.

    I consider this about average for a Cadillac. I have an extended ($2,000+) warranty on this car because Cadillacs scare me to death, especially the Northstar head gasket problems and general electronic complication problems. But the wife wants a Cadillac. I've got a little over 2 years and 22,000 miles or so left on the warranty. When it's out, the car will be sold.

    Probably have to buy another for the wife, but I don't want to keep a Cadillac without a warranty.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    P.S. Yes, the $16.5 is high. A couple of days ago I look at the KBB prices of mine, seemed like it was abou $9,000 trade and $13,000 retail. I would think they would jump on an offer of $13-14,000 for this car. They probably don't have more than $9,000 in it, still giving them a lot of profit at the above numbers.

    Offer $12,000 and buy an extended GMAC extended warranty (if available).
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Did my postings scare you totally away?
  • chrisptown1chrisptown1 Member Posts: 41
    They gave me some pause. we are at $15.5 right now, haven't discussed my PA trade. The '05 Deville was "Certified" in Apr. '08. was in service 11/04. has 51k right now/ the dealer is telling me it is covered bumper to bumper til 11/10. I thought only the power train is covered til 11/10.? do you know? The veh. has everything i want--XM Sat., m/roof. heated and cooled.seats (need the heat here in Maine) I should know by wed. if it is a go. i could still go either way.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    If it's a Cadillac 'certified' this would be a bumper-to-bumper, just like a new car. Don't take dealer's word. Get a printout showing the coverage. They can pull this from their computer, showing the coverage date and milage. But per what you said, this is only 6 more months of coverage.

    The GM power train coverage started in 2006, about August. It is for 5 years, 100,000 miles. I don't think that Cadillac would have this coverage.

    As I said, I would look into getting a GMAC extended warranty if I bought this car.

    Here is where I got mine http://www.gmoutlet.com/p&hfee.html

    Black Pontiac Cadillac, Our 48th Year
    3929 Admiral Peary Highway
    Ebensburg, Pa. 15931
    877-472-9550 Toll Free
    814-472-9550 Local
    814-472-4741 Fax
    allen@gmoutlet.com
    www.gmoutlet.com

    This was cheapest place I could find in 2008. But I don't know if they will cover a 5 1/2 year old Cadillac.
  • duraflexduraflex Member Posts: 358
    In January 2009, I acquired a very low mileage (22,000) DHS. Beautiful, smooth quiet car. I do have an issue with the rear air-conditioning - it blows hot air regardless of thermostat settings front or rear. Front AC works like a champ.

    Can anyone give me a clue of what the problem might be? and what it might cost to repair?

    Thanks.
  • rebeccatrebeccat Member Posts: 5
    Hi,
    I have a big problem tring to get my car inspected. The computor keeps throwing O2 codes. We have replaced 2 that have been said to be the prob. One under the motor and the other a bit farther back around the area of the drivers seat.
    The dash pc says to check the Emissions system. Tha air cleaner is fine and the motor is running well. It had a vaccum leak but got that fixed. We done the EGR valve. Checked the PCV also. We had a water leak problem but ended up using that liquid glass stuff. It was not blowing out the tail pipe. I thought the prob was the radiator. Replaced that , the hoses, and some belts.We cancel the pc codes drive it a bit and the light comes back on. When the light is out the AC works , but when its on it goes to "econ" and doesn't... Oh we had heater core prob too. We by passed it temporarily, tell we have other things working. Its not losing water now the temp is staying normal. Oh we also replaced the Thermostate too. Its got near 200,000 miles.
    HELP I am at lose to fix this thing and can't replace a car now. the inspections been out a month now and I'm on borrowed time :). Becky
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Many times an O2 codes does not mean the O2 sensor is bad. I means the O2 sensor is 'sensing' either a rich or lean condition. Which mean the problem is somewhere else.

    You've thrown a lot of money at the problem. It might be time to find a good Cadillac mechanic and see what he can find.

    But just for something else to look at - on old Northstar motor the rubber tube that goes into the intake will sometimes rot out at the bottom, where you can not see it. This is a large black tube. With addional air coming into the motor here, you will get a lean running car all the time. I think it's quite a disassembly job to repair this. But you should be able to fill around at the bottom of the tube and see if its bad.
  • chrisptown1chrisptown1 Member Posts: 41
    WELL, i bite the bullett, ended up paying $15.K fioor the '05, took del. thurs. finish is flawless. leather seats are firmer than my Pk. av. were, but they may be better for support. have the bumper to bumper til 11/30. this yr. then i bought a GMAC ext. covering to $75k. it has 50k now. ...Anyway have issue already--have a noise coming from right fr. suspension. on list of the dealers pre sale work was a right fr. strut. do they do it? did the 370 mi. trip from dealer to my house develop something new? i know it should be covered, but nearest Caddy dealer is 120 mi. away.l
  • hotntexashotntexas Member Posts: 1
    I am having problems with the air conditioning system. When I turn on the air, it comes through the defroster vents, but it is not cold. I was told that there was a way of turning it back on by using the buttons on the stereo(factory). The a/c compressor does not turn on at all. My question is this, is there a way to "turn it back on" by using the stereo buttons? The a/c worked when I first bought the car last November. Then one day I was playing with the stereo, trying to figure out how to change the clock and then it just quit working and now the blower sends nothing but hot air through the defroster vents and the floor vents. Can you help me out?
  • chrisptown1chrisptown1 Member Posts: 41
    noise prolem was base fitting for strut right front. covered under certified extended warranty. :) link">
  • chrisptown1chrisptown1 Member Posts: 41
    HI--my only issue with the '05 deville now is the seats--they are not soft leather--in fact quite hard and poor quality for a$47k vehicle. i understand the :confuse: DHS and DTS have a better quality seat.?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    We had a 95 until about 35,000 miles and a 1997 until about 45,000 miles (?), and the current 2005 (base model with a LOT of options) has about 53,000 miles and the seats are in much, much better shape than the two other cars. The 97 especially had terrible wrinkles on the left bottom side of drivers seat where you slid in/out.

    None of the Cadillacs had/have very comfortable seats. Laugh away, but one of most comfortable seats was in a 1981 Chevette. And, my 2007 Corvette has very comfortable seats.
  • chrisptown1chrisptown1 Member Posts: 41
    i have a '05 Deville with 52k on it. i am getting a noice like a sqeek from the pulley area driving the serpitine belt. is this anything to be concerned about? :confuse:
  • chadillac541chadillac541 Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    I know this is probably the wrong forum, but for the life of me, I couldn't find a Seville SLS topic specific forum. So, please forgive me, but I'm in need of some help

    I just bought this car yesterday, and it came with the GM Keyless Entry Remote, but no battery. Does anyone know how to program the remote? I really want to afford paying a dealership for something I, myself, can do.

    Thank you.
  • wifecarproblemwifecarproblem Member Posts: 1
    My wife’s 2005 Deville AC is acting up. The climate control “ac auto, on etc…” is not coming on when the ignition is turned. However if I hit the dash, in the center of the windshield it will run and blow cold, hot, etc.. auto no problems, and run until the car is stopped. Intermittently it will “come on” when the key is turned, it just started. I hit the dash, it works fine. “is this a new feature”

    Seriously, is there something “simple” to do, check, or replace? I am obviously “no mechanic,” but I can hit a dash! My wife however, is much smaller and doesn’t know the “hit the dash technique” and probably better for it. Is this being 2005, is this a motor or module problem or both? If it’s the module that I’ve read about on other blogs, is that easy to replace?
  • chrisptown1chrisptown1 Member Posts: 41
    i have recently developed -a squeking,creaking noise under my dash area near climate control area. ('05 Deville, 57k) the noise is when i start it up and it usually stops in 1-2 min. Is this a sign of trouble ahead for the climate control system.?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Probably.
  • recorderrecorder Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2002 Deville and I am loosing coolant from the upper right side of the water pump housing. The location is like a small triangle where the fluid is accumulating and then drips to the under carriage. Went to my mechanic and he looked at it and told me it was the water pump. Now I suspect that it could be the O ring in water pump housing or I am wondering if its the gasket that holds the pump housing against the motor block. The engine is not overheating and the message on the dash states "check engine" on the computer it states "coolant problem" the compression test was good. I am loosing about a quart of coolant every 500 miles. Has anyone experienced this same problem.
  • recorderrecorder Member Posts: 8
    If any one has similar problem, I found out today that the leak is caused by a poor manufactured water pump cover which wears out the gasket on the housing to make it leak. it is not the water pump. The check engine light is caused by the " CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR" and keep an eye on the front motor mount it breaks off due to POOR MANUFACTURING. I will never buy a CADILLAC and if they give it to me free I will trade it in for a Lexus hell even a toyota. By Recorder
  • recorderrecorder Member Posts: 8
    For anyone with a 2002 Deville 4.6 engine, I just replaced the two front tourk censors and reset the check engine light then I drove it for 178 miles and the car failed the NY inspection, Then I drove an additional 285 miles and it still failed due to the catalitic converter did not have sufficient time to register. Is this normal for these cars. :mad:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    On a Cadillac you can reset the check engine codes yourself, both current and history codes.
  • recorderrecorder Member Posts: 8
    thanks bolivar, I did but it seems that the computer is taking a long time saving information for the inspection, so far I have logged over 400 miles and still it states that it does not have sufficient info to pass.

    By the way how do you reset the engine light? Do I need any special equipment?
    Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, I can't remember a check engine light on any of my wife's Cadillac, but a while back her 2005 Deville turned on the Air Bag light and displayed an error. I went into Diagnoistic mode and cleared all the codes and the error light went out, then quickly came back on. When I took it in, the problem was the front impact sensor was bad.

    You do know how to get into Diagnoistic mode, and view error codes, and then reset them, right?

    If not, you need to google other Cadillac forums. There are ones out there that tell you exactly how to manipulate the controls on your dash and get it to display any error codes that are set.

    This forum does not have anything like this. How to do this takes several steps and differs for different years of CAdillacs. You should be able to google it and fine the info.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    And, I would think if the check engine light is still on, you are not going to pass inspection.
  • maz28maz28 Member Posts: 4
    hi, i have recently found a 1997 Cadillac DeVille with 63,000 miles for sale for $5,990. I know that this is a really open ended question but can anyone please tell me why i shouldnt buy this vehicle? or problems that may come up and when u think such problems will occur? It's a beautiful body style, it has low miles, and i would say its a great price. Please any info would be very appreciated seeing as ive never owned a Caddy or known anyone thats owned a Caddy. Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Do you have much money for repairs? This is a complicated car with complex electronics.

    Problem areas
    -Head gaskets leak which cause thousands to fix because heads have to be pulled and special threads put into alumium block. (2000 redesign of motor helped this problem a lot.)
    -1997 should have a recall on ABS brake pump. Check to see this has been done.
    -Solonid for 'overdrive' lockup fails, and it also cost thousands to repair because motor/tranny must be pulled to get to it.
    -High oil use because the high-performance Northstar has been 'babied' and the rings carbon up. Can be reduced many times by wide open throttle application several times.
    -As I said, there are a lot of electonic on the car which can fail.
  • maz28maz28 Member Posts: 4
    dam u just single handedly crapped on my dream of owning that Caddy, but no lie thank you because i would been pissed if i would've bought it and then things started going wrong, i don't have money just laying around for costly repairs.
    With that being said i don't know if i want to totally give up on owning a Caddy, i just cant get over them haha they're beautiful. In your opinion what would be the best year/model to buy as far as being issue free? My max is $8,000
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    From 95 thru 99 they are essentially about the same. There was some re-design done for 2000 on the Northstar motor. To make it run on regular gas, and different thread and longer headbolts to try to keep the head gaskets from failing so much. 2000 thru 2005 all about the same. In 2006 they changed the name from Deville to DTS and changed body style some, but underneath they are still about the same car.

    I've had, Devilles all, a 95, 97, and now 2005. My wife wants one.

    The 95 had several problems. I didn't keep the 97 very long because I didn't have a warranty on it. When the 2005 was going out of the factory warranty, I bought an extended warranty. It has had a lot of things fail on it. Oh, the headlamp lens also fall off 97. I glued mine on.

    I would not own one without an extended warranty.

    You could offer $3,000 on that 97. Which, in my opinion, is about all it is worth. That is a 14 year old car. And you could look at it as having that other $3,000 in your pocket for potential future repairs. And, don't make an offer if you don't want to buy it, because you just might get it for $3,000.
  • maz28maz28 Member Posts: 4
    Thank you, one last question for you tho, how many miles do u think i could get out if that 97 with 63k miles that im looking at before it starts having major problems?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I'm good, but not that good. A Cadiallic could have a major problem tomorrow or 10 years from now.

    In general, except for the head gasket and oil consumption problems, a Northstar motor is bullet proof. You can try to 'blow out the carbon' for the oil consumption, or just ignore it. Oil is cheap, even if it uses a quart every 1000 miles. A head gasket failure on a 97 - I would sell it for parts. Other than that, 150,000 miles on a Northstar is easy, mechanically. Valves, cam, pistons, etc don't wear out.

    In general the transmission behind a Northstar is also bullet proof. Except for the solonids failing. It has 3 of them. The two shift ones can be reached by dropping the pan. As I said before, the lockup one has to have the motor and tranny pulled to get to it. 'A $40 part buried $2,000 deep' because of the labor to pull it.

    Everything electronic could fail at any time. And look at it - everything is an electric button with a sensor or motor on the other end. Dash, radio, heat/AC, seats, rear air shocks, etc, etc, etc. And the motor and tranny mechanically are very strong, but there are sensors all over both. Crank sensors sometimes cause trouble, but these are on the outside front by the crank and are easily changed.

    The sway bar linkages sometimes fail. Rear air shocks fail. But these type things go on all cars as milage accumulate.
  • maz28maz28 Member Posts: 4
    man ur seriously helpful as hell. no lie u seem like a beast i wish u were my neighbor haha. So how do u feel about the new models (DTS STS CTS) because i was considering a 2002 CTS, not a fan of the down size but i cant afford a DTS
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The STS is just a more expensive sedan that never sold well. Isn't it a rear wheel drive?

    The DTS is just the Deville under a 'new' name.

    The CTS, I'm not sure. Wife wants a Cadillac, and wants a big 'tank'. The CTS is smaller, would be fine for me, but she's not very interested. Our small town lost its Cadillac dealer. Two days ago was in larger nearby city, and looked at the CTS-V. Detuned Corvette supercharged motor. 560 something HP. I don't like to test drive unless I really am interested, but I almost test drove this.

    Sell the wife's Deville. Sell my Corvette. Keep my truck. Buy an automatic CTS-V 4 door. (Sticker says it has a $2,600 gas guzzler tax.) Be able to keep all/both (CTS and truck) in my garage. Wife doesn't have much interest in this, starts talking about an Escalade. Not gonna do an Escalade.
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