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The good news is that your 99.5 MAF is covered by an extended warantee for 7years 70,000 miles. Any VW dealership should honor that factory warantee.
They will have to hook your car up to their diagnostic computer and if the MAF is the problem... everything is FREE OF CHARGE. Obviously, if they find some other issue that is NOT the MAF, they will charge you for the diagnosis.
I think it might have something to do with the transmission, but am not sure....
I took it into a dealer and they said to rev the engine to redline once in a while. i did that and it seemed to have solved the problem, but then it came back!!! and the REAL PRBLEM is that my warranty has run out now...
Did anyone else have a similar problem?
What was the solution?
I am trying to solve problem with my 99 Jetta (new body style). The speedometer used to fluctuate over speeds 50MPH and gave an incorrect reading. Recently it failed completed and does not read anything. The OBD II code reads P0501 which is the Veh Speed Sensor A Range/Performance. I ran Vag-Com software on the vehicle and it reads that the vehicle speed sensor voltage too low. I replaced the speed sensor and problem still exists. The voltage thru the Vag-Com reads 2.48 at idle. Any ideas?
Before you start to pull the engine apart, you may wish to try some "STP oil treatment" for about 1000 miles. Somtimes, a collapsed lifter will come back to life once the crud is cleaned out of it. Also, "Risoline" may be helpful in cleaning the crud from the lifters.
To answer your question more specificly. If you wish to attempt to replace the collapsed lifter yourslef, you will need at minimum the ability to R-n-R the timing belt. In many engines, the timing belt has to be removed in order to remove the overhead camshaft to get access to the lifters.
G12 is available from VW/Audi dealerships as well as foriegn-car auto-parts sellers.
Please tell me what a "tune up" is???? Back when cars had points-n- condensers, mechanical lifters, and carberrators... there was such a thing as a tune-up.
On todays automobiles there is no such thing as a "tune up"
I would be very curious to hear what they claim to do when they perform a "tune up"..??
If it were I, I would be focusing on the cyl. 1 misfire issue. That should be easy enough to isolate.
They tell me tune-up consists of changing the spark plugs. I hear that VW Jetta is more difficult to change the spark plugs, hence you can damage the wireset if not done carefully. That's what happened when I first had a tune-up done by an independent mechanic whom I trust. They messed up and told me I needed a new wireset, which I gladly paid for.
cyl 1 misfire has been diagnosed multiple times, except every time they do, they recommend another tune-up. beats me why VW services cannot pinpoint and tell me exactly what's wrong with it. However, I have recently put in a fuel injector cleaner (@ 92,000 miles) and the engine misfire has temporarily ceased. cross my fingers!
and is more nimble than VR6.
You need to open the hood and read the top of the engine cover. If it says 1.8t ...then YES it is turbocharged.
Also-- It sounds as if you are going into this "blind" (without doing much research) Make no mistake-- the 1.8t engine REQUIRES premium gasoline. (just like any other turbocharged gasoline engine)
- Joe
Hi, my name is Cait. I'm nineteen years old and attempting to research MY VERY FIRST CAR. I don't need anything fancy. Just safe, economical, and under $15,000. I was looking into a used Jetta or Pasat, however I still have many unanswered questions. What are all these different "trims"? Do these models get good gas milage? How is the longevity of these cars? Your thoughts are greatly appreciated... :confuse:
Also, you can spend some time looking through the previous postings here. The Search This Discussion feature may be helpful to you in doing that. (It's a box just above the first post and just below the last one.)
Good luck!
This is my first post and I was hoping someone out there could offer some help. I have a 95 Jetta GLS with a broken interior door handle. Happened today. The lever moves, but no longer opens the door.
I was wondering if anyone has repaired this on their own and how involved the task is. I know a dealer would probably charge a few hundred bucks for this. If it is not too complicated I was thinking of giving a shot myself.
Thanks.
Had my tempgauge go high a few days ago. Water pump seized yesterday...
Hope this isn't your problem - not sure how you could diagnose it??
-Pete
anyone have any ideas?? the mechanic has put in a new parking lite switch and it still does it... i'm thinking, but not sure, that her petal is losing brake pressure?? so the petal is pushed down?? i know, wild guess.. but anyone think its something else? or have any insight? thanks!!
As for your thought of the pedal "losing pressure". There IS NO PRESSURE in the systm when the pedal is not pressed. There is a SPRING that keeps the pedal in the extended position.
i guess VW put in an defective switch even after the recall.. just like what they do with coils..
Quandry. We need a wagon for the kids. I'm looking at an 02 TDi Wagon with 52K on it and regular maintenance v. an 04 2.0L gasser with 6K on it. Both GLS. The 02 is under a 2 year extended warranty. 02 is only about $1000 cheaper at this point.
From a cost of ownership standpoint/reliability standpoint, which one of these is the keeper? The TDi may not loom as large as for some of you since we're only driving 7-10K a year.
thanks for whatever insights y'all can provide.
I just traded in a 2001 GLS 2.0L manual 4 dr sedan, black with no options, after 59,300 mi. The car was what my college daughter HAD to have at the time of purchase. She used it at school for 3 years and then it was the wife's daily driver for the last 1.5 years.
Looking over the records I spent $1760 in maintenance over tht time for about 3 cents/mi. Most of that came between 42,000 and 59,000 mi with new brake pads & rotors front and rear and new tires. As with other Jettas I have heard about, the rear brakes went first (surprising for me) and their rotors had to be replaced -- no depth left to grind them.
We were free of the dreaded 2.0L engine "above average oil consumption" until 42,000 mi, but after that it started to need an extra quart every 6-8 weeks depending on driving conditions. DO NOT BUY a 2.0L Jetta if you are not willing to check the oil once/month and keep a spare quart of 5W-30 in the trunk for the times when you will need it -- you will. Oil consumption was at its highest when there was a lot of higher speed Interstate driving and lowest when we were just jogging around town. Having said that, however, while bothersome the need to keep up with oil is not that expensive or time consuming once you are in the habit of doing it -- it just leaves you wondering what else might go wrong that won't have such an easy fix.
Two biggest drawbacks to this car were the standard interior cloth seats ("Format" cloth that year, i.e the "mouse fur" interior - and in black no less - which picked up every piece of lint in the county and held on to it for dear life), and the VW dealer system. All the VW dealers in our city (three) were uniformly below average in attitude, knowledge and service orientation. Makes you want to stay away from them the minute your free services are up -- although as you can read in the above posts there can be some dangers from abandoning them entirely for independent garages. I could understand that the dealers were bad in the 90's when they had poorer product to sell, but after the introduction of the New Beetle/Jetta/Passat lines over the past 8-10 years there is no longer any excuse at all. VW is a fascinating case study of a company who has been greatly successful in turning around the attractiveness of its products but a woeful failure in turning around the dealer system that provides the critical link between the end consumer and those same products.
Still, the black Jetta was sharp looking (after the multiple treatments of Zaino & 3M Swirlmark remover I gave her), pretty reliable, generally comfortable, and certainly economical. Just stay up on the oil consumption in a 2.0L, avoid a 2001 "Format" cloth interior like the plague, find a good independent garage so you can stay away from the awful dealers, and hit the best VW web forums so you can learn from others what might be coming at you. This is not a car for "passive" owners but can be OK for an informed owner who is willing to put in the time.
Thanks in advance.
Any information is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
The result is that the coolant-level will slowly go down with no visable leakage being seen.
I am not sure if the 2001s had this issue.
A bad thermostat is unlikely to cause loss of coolant.
BTW: Make absolutely sure you are using the correct G12 antifreeze. (Pink color) If you use the generic "green" stuff, you risk ruining your engine.
I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8T with 50,000 Miles and I need to get new tires. I currently have the original Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus tires.
What tires would you all receommend?
The Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus got ok ratings on tirerack.com
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Energy+MXV4+- Plus&partnum=965HR5MXV4EPL&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&place=2#Survey
I was considering getting the Michelin PIlot Exalto A/S they got good ratings
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Exalto- +A%2FS&partnum=965HR5EXAS&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&place=0#Survey
I'd be interested in feedback/opinions from anyone on good tires to get for a Jetta.
Thanks!
I found
I have them installed on my 2004 VR6 to replace the Goodyear RSA at 13,400 miles (which is a junk tire, not good at any surface) I happens to drive SP9000 once in the light snow this winter, which is OK.
There is really no way to "make sure it will be reliable" besides take good care of it and hope for the best. All vehicles have their own individual problems to contend with.
For my daughter, her 1st car was 1989 VW golf. She drove the wheels off that thing and learned a lot about car ownership in the process. She sold it at with over 150,000 miles on it and it was seen on the road for several years after that. For may daughter, I liked the SAFETY that VW offers. The Jetta/Golf have been leaders in SAFETY for a long time.
Now that they have sold you a bunch of expensive stuff, they send you on your way no better off than when you started.
It should be trivial for them to use their computer hookup to log and diagnose the conditions when the problem occours. WITHOUT selling you any parts. (Of course... they are TRAINED to sell parts even if they are not needed)
It sure sounds to me as if the cold-starting conditions are not operating properly.
Lets see if I understand your situation;
*)Cold starts are very difficult
*)runs just fine once it does start
*)Once warmed up, it starts and runs just fine
If I have this correct, This sure seems as if the "cold start system" is not kicking in like it is supposed to.
Your car needs to be connected to a computer with a COMPENTENT operator at the helm.... not somone that just runs diagnostics. The cold-start system needs to be verified that it is enguaged when the engine is cold.
Two questions:
1) The combined weight of the bike and the trailer is about 750 lbs. According to the trailer manufacturer the tongue weigh should be 10-12% of the towing weight, or not greater than 90lbs. With the maximum adjustment to the trailer, the tongue weight is about 130lbs. Anyone have ANY idea if it is safe (for the vehicle) to pull a 750lb load with a 130lb tongue weight?
2) When I connected the electrical I blew the 10-amp turn signal fuse (repeatedly), with the trailer lights connected directly to the turn signal wiring. I belive I'm going to have to power the lights by wiring directly to the battery. If anyone can has any experience or helpful hints about trailer wiring, I will be very happy to hear them.
Thanks,
-Larry
You'd be more than safe as the Jetta is rated to tow up to 1,000lbs. Remember, the 1.8T is very powerful and is used to power to much heavier Passat. The tongue weight shouldn't be a problem because we've all loaded up our trunks with 100-200lbs of stuff with no problem.
--Daniel
I would be very surprised if there is not already a BOV. It has to be there so when you "lift off" the throttle, the turbocharger is unloaded.
As for the turbo-timer -- why do you think you need one? Like all other turbocharged engines, you should idle the engine for about a minute before shutting down. This cools the turbocharger bearings sufficently by flowing oil thru it.
Besides, you should be running 100% synthetic oil that will not succomb to the heat in the turbocharger.