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2000-2011 Chevrolet Malibu

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Comments

  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Guys, I saw a TV a report about two cases of the gas pedal getting stuck, so people who were driving their cars (the first one was Ford Ranger, the second I don't know) were unable to stop and had to call 911 screaming. In the Ranger case, the cops simply boxed the car and stopped it. But the interesting part of the report came when the reporter went to a professional driving school where she was shown what to do if your gas pedal gets stuck.

    The simplest way is to turn off the engine and hit the brakes :-) If you cannot turn the engine off and/or you've already burned your breaks trying to stop, then shift to neutral and coast to stop. But then a professional driver in a Malibu, no less, showed what to do if your key and shifter are also stuck (imagine that happenning!), or you don't have enough space in front of you to coast (i.e. twenty little school girls crossing the road just fifty meters ahead). You hit the emergency break (that locks the rear wheels only), and you spin the steering wheel. The car will then spin around and, hopefully, stop. Sure a dangerous move, but something to keep in mind. They also said stuck gas pedals are very rare.

    And now some comic relief. The Ranger driver was a middle aged lady. They played the tape of her 911 call. The operator asked her: "Have you tried to use the emergency brake?" and the tearful reply was: "I don't know, I am a woman!" :-)
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    My English teacher Mrs. McMullen would have mutilated me...

    b-r-a-k-e

    Sorry, sweet old lady!
  • wilfj1wilfj1 Member Posts: 52
    I recently rented a Ford Toraus. and coming out of the airport I braked on a sharp turn, and hit the gas pedal at the same time! I just about rear ended the rental just ahead of me. I pulled to the side and noticed both pedals were just about at the same distance from the floor board. it happened on one other occasion during the 3 day rental. I now understand this has something to do with the self adjusting pedal setup. Coming out of Calgary Airport is a challenge in it's self and adding pedals that are all over the lot, sure doen't help. Also, seems to me the car rental firm should alert the driver on the pedal adjustments. There was no such notice in the car.I think Henry has a problem here... but would they ever admit it. I had heard something on the news not sure if it was a recall or someone reporting the default.Wilf1
  • cherokeelmtcherokeelmt Member Posts: 22
    " Once it is fixed it doesn't come back" Yah right! My 98 Malibu blew an intake gasket at 37k along with the consistent brake rotor warpage I was ready to dump the car then. At 60k the intake gasket blew again! As a side note, I put an intake gasket into my 91 Cav. z24 with the same 3.1 motor before I traded for the Malibu problem. After the 2nd intake gasket on the Malibu blew I traded it for a Jeep Cherokee Limited. The Kicker: I sell Chevy's and Pontiacs, I can't bring myself to tell customers what a wonderful car the Malibu is.
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Hey, Cherokee, since you sell cars, you probably know that '98 was the second model year, and that until 99 Malibus had way too many bugs. And, btw, for 2002 JD Power awarded Malibu the best initial quality award. You should know that! As for the gasket blowing again, isn't it possible that whoever repaired it did a lousy job?

    An unrelated question: is it usual for people who sell certain makes and models to drive a car they do not sell? Not trying to pick on you, but I think it kind of sends a weird message, if you see your Chevy salesman driving a Jeep :-)
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    According to http://www.thecarconnection.com the Malibu may become the Chevrolet Classic for fleet and rental car sales only next year. I guess they want to keep production up as the new 04 Malibu starts up.
  • wilfj1wilfj1 Member Posts: 52
    Not always so... My salesman drove a Honda Accord, I ask why, well he was connected with a dealership out of the city and wanted to be closer to home. With the hours these fellows keep it sure made sense. He would be getting a demo in a few days and the Honda would be turned in. It turned out to be of some advantage. Honda is a great car but the have some interesting stories in themselves, like don't over fill the gas tank it will blow the module $800.00 and not covered by the warranty.I understand it's covered in the manual but gea we all have done it at sometime.
    02 demo's fully equipped 12/ 15km are going for $14500 Cdn: rentals I would think, but that has to real value. The last batch that come in have more Km but at the same price. if your after a demo do it early for best value.
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Got it from the Consumer Guide site:

    Antilock brakes are optional instead of standard for 2003 on the base version of Malibu. ABS remains standard on LS, but is now a $400 base-model option.

    An all-new Malibu arrives for 2004 on the same front-drive Epsilon platform as the latest 9-3 from GM-owned Saab. Don't worry about price, though: Malibu will remain an affordable, mainstream midsize slotting just under Impala. The '04 gets more angular lines than today's vintage-1997 design, plus more room inside via slight gains in width and height. An unexpected innovation is a second 4-dr body style called Malibu Maxx. Chevy terms it an "extended sedan," but it's actually a hatchback with a 6-inch longer wheelbase than the regular Malibu, though also a similar notchback profile. Like some minivans and SUVs, Maxx features a rear seat that slides for extra rear leg room or cargo space; it can also be folded, of course. Maxx options are said to include a rear-seat sunroof, unique among midsize sedans, and a rear-seat entertainment system. The Maxx looks a smart move, as many buyers crave the room and versatility of a midsize wagon but don't like the uncool wagon image. We'll know soon enough how smart Chevy is.

    The redesign is timely, as demand for the current Malibu keeps sinking despite 0-percent financing and other lures. On a year-to-year basis, Malibu sales dropped 14.8 percent in calendar 2001 and another 14.5 percent in the first half of '02.
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    Current Malibu is pretty stale now. There are so many other choices. I think the Malibu is the best value available in this class, but you need more than just value to sell cars.

    Really looking forward to seeing the 04. The Opel Vectra it's based on is beautiful.
  • del289del289 Member Posts: 2
    A RELAY AND A SPEED SENSOR ARE TWO DIFFERENT
    PARTS. THERE ARE MANY PARTS THAT CAN FAIL IN A CAR
    JUST DRIVE IT AND DEAL WITH IT.
  • albuterolalbuterol Member Posts: 21
    Cherokee, sorry to hear about your intake gasket, but I'm not surprised. When I changed the gasket on my '98 Bu, I noticed the rubber material was very narrow and thin compared to other cars I've seen. Unfortunately, the replacement gasket had just as little material.

    The rubber on the old gasket was shifted and contorted -- just not enough thickness to handle the normal stress.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    Coworker had a 98 with bugs in it, too. I'd avoid those years if used car shopping.

    Also, they should call the 2004 Chevy Classic the 'Corsica', the definitive rental car, next to the Taurus and Geo Metro!
  • albuterolalbuterol Member Posts: 21
    Just fixed the radio reception on my '98 Bu today. The antenna cable has a connection just under the carpet in the front passenger foot area.

    1) Remove plastic panel from bottom door frame on front passenger side -- it's holding the edge of the rug down. There are no screws, the panel is snapped on and can be removed by hand pulling.

    2) The cable connection is just under the rug where the rug meets the frame on the passenger side (right side) of the car just ahead of the door frame. I can see how someone's right foot kicking at the spot can cause the cable connection to loosen over time.

    3) The connection is loose, just push together. If you want it to stay together, wrap electrical tape around the connection.

    4) Tuck rug back, snap plastic panel back on. You're ready to go!
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Dindak, thank you for the links. BTW, the new Bu up front looks like a Dodge Neon. The current Bu's front is much more attractive. What do you folks think?

    I have a question about auto parts. After GM starts making new Bu's in a year, would that affect the availability of spare parts for the current Bu version?
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    Huh, the 2004 does not have round headlights.
    It looks fine and the old Malibu should hit the rental lots only.
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Yes, they are not completely round, but the Neon connection popped up in my head right away. I dunno, just never liked round headlights, I think they scar the face of vehicles, Mercedes has it horribly wrong, imho. Have you seen a bimmer with round headlights? Don't count MINI, it's not a BMW :-)
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    Kinda funny, all the classic cars have round lights.

    Anyway, the old Malibu is goign to be called Classic and sold to fleets only next fall
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    I know it's a matter of taste, so there's no right or wrong when it comes to the shape of headlights. But I think a "manly" car cannot have round headlights, just think VW Beetle! And, as we all know, Bu is a very macho car, the one chicks really dig, so it cannot possibly look like a Neon, please don't kill this chick magnet!!!
  • davemal99davemal99 Member Posts: 3
    I like the conservative styling of my Malibu. I never thought of it as a "chick magnet".

    I'm curious as to what you have experienced that makes you feel that way.
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Go to a bar, park the Bu in front, and wait for the chicks to run around the bar like crazy screaming: "What sexy beast owns that chick magnet outside the bar???"
  • albuterolalbuterol Member Posts: 21
    Was reading a TSB for my '98 Malibu 3.1 V6 for the brakes. There's mention of using Brake Align's correction plates to get rid of the brake wobble. My question is -- has anyone tried the Brake Align system and does it work?

    ---------------------------------

    Brake Rotor - Lateral Runout Correction System

    Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-001

    Date: February, 2001

    INFORMATION

    Subject:
    Brake Align(R) System for Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction

    Models:
    2001 and Prior Passenger Cars

    This bulletin is being issued to update General Motors position on correcting brake rotor lateral runout (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002 for additional brake rotor service procedures).

    Important : Certain conditions may apply to individual vehicles regarding specific repairs. Refer to those specific repairs in applicable service bulletins. Make sure other possible sources of brake pulsation, such as ABS pedal feedback, have been addressed before checking rotor runout.

    Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have .050 mm (.002 in) or less of lateral runout. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation. Until now, the only acceptable methods to correct brake rotor runout were to index or replace the rotor or to refinish the rotor using an on-vehicle brake lathe.

    GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral runout on new or refinished rotors. This new method is called Brake Align(R)*. It will allow the technician to meet the .050 mm (.002 in) or less requirement for lateral runout by installing a specially selected, tapered correction plate between the rotor and the hub. The Brake Align(R) Correction system does NOT require the use of an on-vehicle brake lathe to correct for lateral runout.

    .......etc........
  • snorbecksnorbeck Member Posts: 1
    Thanks albuterol,
    I bought a used 98 Malibu two weeks ago and the AM radio didn't work, but I removed the passenger side rug and found that the cable connection had come loose as you had stated. It took very little time to fix and tape up so it won't happen again.
    The fm seemed to work ok. Also on this vehicle
    there is an antenna mounted on the inside drivers side window. An antenna is also on the rear passenger side (near the trunk) Is this the FM antenna or is it a add on for a cell phone? The car manual does not talk about it. Thanks for the advice as I saved money by not having to take it to the shop.
  • albuterolalbuterol Member Posts: 21
    snorbeck,

    On my 'Bu, there is only one antenna cable. It runs along the right side floorboard into the trunk then up into the fixed mast which is mounted next to the trunk (as you described for your rear passenger side antenna).

    I don't have anything on my inside driver's side window as you describe. My driver's door just has a speaker, power windows, power locks, power mirrors, etc.

    I looked in my service manual regarding additional antenna's and found nothing -- just the one that I mentioned.

    I don't know anything about cell phone external antenna's. Good luck!
  • norbsnorbs Member Posts: 10
    Bought a 99 Mailbu new and am crossing 70,000 miles this week. 2.4, 4 cylinder engine has been perfect so far. Only problems with car have been the 1st and 2nd position on the heater/airconditioner blower. The resistors blew at 65,000. $135 for replacement. Brake pads at 45,000 for $34. 1/2 hour change in my driveway. Odd car being the 2.4 with all the LS options except sunroof. Very powerful. Rented a 2001 3.1 six and thought it was not as quick.
    Drove new Impala with 3.8 and had the salesman drive the bu. He wonders why the 99 4 cyl seems quicker than his 2003 Impala demo. Some cars are put together correctly and others not so lucky. Gonna keep this for a long time. When brake rotors are due, $23 apiece and they come off in your hands with the brake calipers removed. Two bolts. Doesn't get better than that. $470 brake job at dealer. I think not...
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    I, too, found Impala to be underpowered compared to Bu. Impala is heavier and needs a more powerful engine to be as agile as Bu
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    If you keep it much longer you will need the infamous water pump replacement,its one many reasons why the engine is not made anymore.
  • norbsnorbs Member Posts: 10
    Didn't hear about the water pump problem. Is it a bear to change? I can imagine. Only problems I know of are electrical, brakes wearing quickly and intake maniforld on the 3.1 V6.
    Having roller rockers and chain on the 4 seems like a great idea. Also sorry to hear the new engines are 2.2. Wonder why the down size! 2.4 been around a long time.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    The pump is chain driven so to replace the front cover has to come off,not an easy job.Retiming the cams without the proper tools and knowledge can be a problem.The dealer on average charges $800 for pump replace.
    The 2.2 eco-tec is easier,you dont have to remove the cover.
  • norbsnorbs Member Posts: 10
    Yipes. $800 for a water pump. I was afraid of that. Still, $400 for a brake job ad the dealer that costs $34 for pads and $23 for rotors, retail at NAPA, is outrageous. I have a local garage that is a longtime fixture in my town and have had great results there. Have not needed to take the bu there but had all belts (timing included) for $250 on our 96 Prizm. These reports are unnerving to me for a car I like so much. Next thing I will do is have it undercoated and put carpeting in the trunk to try to quiet the thing down. Have B.F. Goodrich Coutour T/A's on it and it handles better than stock rubber. Still, the reason the radio has the automatic volume control feature is because "it needs it." Might buy a used Camry next. Too bad because this car is a real kick to drive. Love the transmission.
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    $400 to change brake pads? That's a joke. Two years ago I was charged "only" $200 at a dealership in Northern Virginia, where everything costs more than elsewhere
  • norbsnorbs Member Posts: 10
    Having trouble with the heat deflection control for foot, foot-face, defrost. Everything comes out of the center vents.Do get some defrost but I am not feeling a change from position to position on the vent control. I see some talk of this on older posts but not a good answer. I am afraid it might be expensive. Any easy fixes? Went to "Wagner" brake pads at 42,000 miles and they are much better than the original chevy pads. Rotors still fine and no more brake dust from the pads on the mag wheels. Very easy cheap fix for the brakes. 70,000 and original rotors on my 99. 2.4L engine but with all the LS options. Like driving this better than my sons new Camry. His car may be quieter and a little softer ride but the bu is quicker and handles better. Given a choice we both agree on the mailbu. He is 26 yrs old. Great site with lots of information.
  • 7to57to5 Member Posts: 4
    Just bought the 2003 LS. The vehicle they had included the Cassette option. Be aware if you do go with the cassette option you will LOSE the auto-scan feature. What you will get is a "preset auto-scan" instead. Imbeciles! Who needs an auto-scan that only scans six presets??? If you drive across the country, out of your preset range, there will be more than 100 stations that will need to be clicked through to find a signal, 98.1, 98.2, 98.3 ... - a good 10 minute exercise for you wrist!
  • wilfj1wilfj1 Member Posts: 52
    7 to 5... I have the same radio in my 02, at a loss what the problem is? the manual outlines how to locate stations not sure you have to go through 100 to find one unless your in the middle of the pacific. wilfj1
  • norbsnorbs Member Posts: 10
    Here is a question I am having trouble getting a good answer for. My 99 Bu has a "4" speed automatic. When it goes into lockup in "D" it is a 5th gear. (lockup technically). My sons Camry has a"4" speed automatic w/overdrive. I never feel a lockup after 4th gear and his car turns 400 rpm's more at 700. Is ours a 5 speed automatic on the Malibu? I wonder if the new 5 speed autos in some cars is really 6. Just want to throw this out to all the smart car folks on this site.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Lockup is not a gear,some tran will lockup when it goes into 4th gear so you only feel 1 change.
  • homer29homer29 Member Posts: 5
    Wondering if any 2001 "Bu" owners had noticed a noisy front end during tight slow turning? I get a clunk, which I think is coming from the suspension. My family also has a 2000 Cavalier which makes simliar noises. The dealer here is horrible. (Flag Chevrolet Oldmobile, Surrey, B.C.) Once the car was sold they didn't want anything to do with us. They kept blowing me off saying it was an inherent flaw that they couldn't do anything about. Anyway, I was wondering if anybody else had this problem and were able to fix it themselves or find a dealer/mechanic that was helpful and knew what was wrong?

    Thanks
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    I am in 1Kuver! Sorry to hear about your Bu problems. Dueck GM on Marine (at Main) seems to be ok, try them, the car should definitely not be making any noises like that, and it's not an inherent flaw, they are liars
  • norbsnorbs Member Posts: 10
    71,000 miles on my 99 bu and not a sound from the front end. Sometimes going to an independent garage you can trust is a good idea. Not partial to any particular brand usually, and they are willing to listen better. Check the front strut tower mounts for clunks. The rubber top piece could be worn. Works like an engine mount and might even creak sometimes. Could be dried out.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Question for everyone. (actually 2)

    1) I was driving on I-78 in Jersey in the left lane on Thanksgiving (night time). The roadway was fairly clear so I decided to put on my cruise control. I hit the 'on' button and then fished around the steerign wheel trying ot find the "Set" button. I think I hit the "set" button (it was dark and there are no lights on these buttons). The car went dead. I stepped on the accelerator and nothing happened. Then the power steering and lights (dashboard and exterior) went. Luckily, there was no one inthe lane next to me and I was able to get tot he shoulder and stop the car. I then shut off everything (and cleaned off my seat) and re-started the car. It was like nothing happened. It started fine and the car drove fine afterwards and since. Can anyone explain what may have happened? My thought is I may have overloaded a fuse but everything seems to work now.

    2) At times, during high speed braking (above 55 mph), I get some 'chattering' in the brakes. It has not happened with low speed braking. Is this a sign of the rotors warping?

    Just wanted to get as muxh information so Ican relay it to the service manger next itme I bring in my car.

    Otherwise my 2001 Malibu with 22,000 miles is going along just fine. Although I must warn anyone who needs to have the seat way back for driving, don't buy one of those big comfortable car seats for your child and put it behind you. They tend ot restrict how far back you can adjust your seat. Luckiliy we will be able to turn the car seat around in a couple of months.
  • albuterolalbuterol Member Posts: 21
    I agree, the "clunk" is not normal, and I haven't had the problem either (fortunately). There is a TSB for '97-98 Malibus but I don't if it's related since you have a 2001. I'll list it FYI:

    ----------

    Bulletin No.: 73-32-10

    Date: April, 1998

    Subject:
    Low Pitch Rattle, Clunk and/or Squeak Noise Coming from Front End of Vehicle During Low Speeds (Replace Lower Control Arms or Install Rack and Pinion Steering Gear)

    Models:
    1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu
    1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass

    Condition

    Some owners may comment on a low pitch rattle, clunk and/or squeak noise coming from the front of the vehicle while turning and/or driving straight ahead at low speeds, between 10-18 mph, (16-29 km/h). This noise condition is most apparent when driving over rough/spalled concrete, sharp bumps or broken pavement. A squeak noise may also be present during front end "jounce" conditions.

    Cause

    This condition may be due to vibrations from the suspension damping the rough roads that are being transmitted to the steering gear assembly.

    Correction

    Upon proper inspection, per the procedure in Section 3 - Steering/Suspension Diagnosis in the Service Manual, one of two conditions may exist:

    1. Front Suspension Noise (rattle, clunk and/or squeak) heard while driving straight ahead and/or front end "jounce".

    ^ Replace both lower control arms, P/N 22606709 (left) and P/N 22606710 (right).


    2. Front Suspension Noise (low pitch rattle and/or clunk) heard while turning.

    ^ Install a new rack and pinion steering gear assembly, P/N 26073200.


    Important :The new steering gear may result in a slight increase in steering effort while parking.

    Important :Before changing lower control arms and/or steering gear, exhaust all other possible sources of the noise, using the Service Manual procedure. Also inspect for the following:

    ^ Damaged suspension components

    ^ Worn control arm bushings

    ^ Worn strut dampener or mounting

    ^ Rack bearing preload (Sec: 3B1A8)

    ^ Loose stabilizer shaft

    ^ Loose wheel nuts or covers

    ^ Spring improperly positioned

    ^ Loose tie rod ends

    ^ Loose steering gear mounting

    ^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned

    ^ Power steering hose or line grounding out


    Parts Information

    P/N Description

    26073200 Kit - Steering Gear
    22606709 Lower Control Arm Assembly - LH
    22606710 Lower Control Arm Assembly - RH

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information

    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation Labor Time

    E9720 Use published labor
    operation time
  • albuterolalbuterol Member Posts: 21
    Haven't had the cruise control problem and don't have a TSB on it.

    As for the brakes -- you have the classic symptom of rotor lateral runout, yes warped. These Malibus are very bad about this problem. Can be caused by improper wheel lug nut torquing or the new rotor wasn't within the lateral runout spec.

    If a new rotor isn't within spec, it must either be: 1) machined using an on-car lathe, or 2) shimmed with Brake Align(r).
  • norbsnorbs Member Posts: 10
    A reminder that aftermarket rotors from NAPA and other automotive suppliers are between $23 and $27 each. Two bolts hold the calipers in place and when removed, the rotors come off in your hand. The wheel lugs keep them in position. Entire job can be done by any backyard mechanic with a set of sockets in 30 mins. Also, the recommended 100 lbs of torque for wheel tightening seems a little high and must be done a little at a time and opposite lug nuts as you go so one side doesn't get too tight while the other is loose. Brakes are very cheap for this car.
    Wagner pad have given me 50,000 with no detectable wear or dust on the mag wheels on my 99. Great site with lots of good advice. I learn something every time I sign on.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I figured as much with rotors. I will push for them to replace for free. If not, I have a pretty decent mechanic that I will have put aftermarket rotors on.

    I should clarify that it is not every high speed stop but even one chattering stop is too many.

    Thanks for the info.
  • chevymalibu19chevymalibu19 Member Posts: 49
    Hey, all, i havn't been on in a long while. I'm just but 115,000 on my bu. My front end is making the knocking noise when i turn, and when after i come to a complete stop, and when i jsut start to go. It's not loud though, and can't hear it unless the radio is off. I think it may be my control arms. When i got the car, it had 21,000 miles, and made the noise. We fixed it under warrenty, they said it was the control arms. It started back again around 80,000 miles, i've not fixed it yet. So, does anyone know if it can cause problems.

    The car still runs good, real good. Although, my brakes are probably the most expensive thing on the dang car. Seems like every three months i have to get my rotors turned. Is that normal for them to warp so easyly, or do i just have a cheep rotors.
  • homer29homer29 Member Posts: 5
    Took the BU down to another dealer across town. Didn't want to use the same goofs as last time. Anyway, not only did I put in a complaint about the knocking front end, but also a slight grinding from the front brakes. It wasn't major but while it was up on the hoist it would be easy to look at. Anyway, this dealer decided one caliper was shot and decided to replace it. They then claimed that the knocking had disappeared. We test drove it with a tech and it was still there. They were "shocked"? Anyway, they fiddled around and have now replaced one of the boots on the CV joints. I have no idea how that would cause a knocking sound. Anyway, it is typical GM. They replace the cheapest parts first and work their way up to the big ticket items... Did I mention that the caliper and boot replacement took 4 days? Yes, 4 days. It's really unfortunate as GM cars aren't really that bad. It's the morons who service them that give the company the bad name in my opinion.
  • albuterolalbuterol Member Posts: 21
    Replacing one of the CV joint boots -- hmmm, was it ripped? If so it would have slung grease all around the surrounding area. Very noticeable. Usually a dry CV joint makes a clicking sound in slow turns, definitely not a clunk. If it were clunking, I doubt the vehicle would be driveable.

    Any reputable dealer will attach a Chassis Ear to find the noise source. Heck, I got my own. You hook clamps all over the underside. Each clamp is like a microphone. The closest to the sound is loudest. A couple times like this will zero in on the sound.

    Unfortunately, your bad experience is more common that it should be. Like so many car owners, I got so sick of being burned by dealers that I started doing my own car repairs. Once in a while I try out a dealer to see if anything has changed. And I get burned again.

    The following TSBs may be helpful.

    --------------------

    Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise

    File In Section: 03 - Suspension

    Bulletin No.: 01-03-08-003A

    Date: February, 2002

    TECHNICAL

    Subject:
    Squawk Noise from Front and/or Rear Suspension
    (Lubricate Stabilizer Bushings)

    Models:
    1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu
    1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
    1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero
    1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am

    This is being revised to include additional graphics and torque specifications.

    Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-03-08-003 (Suspension).

    Condition

    Some customers may comment on a squawk noise from the front and/or rear suspension while driving.

    Cause

    The noise may be due to a slip/stick condition between the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings.

    Correction

    Follow the service procedure below and lubricate the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings with Special Lubricant High Temperature, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).

    Service Procedure for Front Suspension

    1. Raise and support the vehicle allowing the front suspension to hang free. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID # 632491) in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.

    2. Remove the stabilizer shaft links. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement (SI2000 Document ID # 635842) in the Front Suspension sub-section of the Service Manual.

    3. Support the rear of the crossmember with an adjustable jack stand.

    4. Remove the rear bolts from the crossmember.

    5. Remove the lower control arm rear bolts.

    6. Lower the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.

    7. Remove the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of the vehicle.

    8. Remove the bolts (1) from the insulator brackets (2) attaching the stabilizer shaft (3) to the crossmember (4).

    9. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).

    10. Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.

    11. Install the insulator brackets (2) and the bolts (1) to the stabilizer shaft (3).

    Tighten

    Tighten the bolts to 69 N.m (51 lb ft).

    12. Install the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of the vehicle.

    13. Raise the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.

    Important :Cross member nuts (1) and (6) are captured nuts.

    14. Install the rear lower control arm bolts (3) through the crossmember.

    Tighten

    Tighten the rear lower control arm bolts (3) to 245 Nm (180 lb ft).

    15. Install the rear crossmember bolts (2). Tighten

    Tighten the rear cross member bolts (2) to 70 N.m (52 lb ft).

    16. Lower the vehicle and road test.


    Service Procedure for Rear Suspension.

    1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID # 632491) in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.

    2. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) and the nuts (6) from the stabilizer shaft (2).

    3. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).

    4. Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.

    5. Install the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) to the stabilizer shaft (2) and the nuts (6).

    Tighten

    Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator bracket nuts to 53 N~m (39 lb ft).

    6. Lower the vehicle and road test.


    --------------------------

    Front Suspension - Rattle Noise Diagnosis

    File In Section: 03 - Suspension

    Bulletin No.: 01-03-08-002

    Date: August, 2001

    INFORMATION

    Subject:
    Front Suspension Clunk/Rattle Noise Diagnosis

    Models:
    1998-2001 Chevrolet Malibu (Built After 10/97)
    1998-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
    1999-2001 Oldsmobile Alero
    1999-2001 Pontiac Grand Am

    A number of front suspension lower control arms have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Input regarding these parts indicates replacement corrected front suspension related clunk/rattle type noise concerns. Analysis of these returned components indicates that they were manufactured to design intent and should have performed satisfactorily in the vehicle. It is recommended that when a front lower control arm is suspected to be the cause of a front suspension noise concern, the technician perform the following fastener tightening procedure prior to control arm replacement.

    1. Position the vehicle on a level surface at curb height (supported by the tires).

    2. Loosen the four lower control arm to front suspension crossmember attaching bolts.

    Tighten

    - Tighten the two lower control arm to suspension crossmember front attaching bolts to 60 N.m (45 lb ft) plus 120°rotation.

    - Tighten the two lower control arm to suspension crossmember rear attaching bolts to 100 N.m (74 lb ft) plus 180°rotation.


    3. Road test vehicle to determine if the noise condition has been corrected.
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    Power will not be 240 hp, but 200 hp.
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    wouldn't wanna give people a good reason to buy the car now would they?

    Plus if the Impala has 205hp, they absolutely COULDN'T let the Malibu have more! LOL!

    But hey, this 'new' pushrod '3500' motor is supposed to have TWO camshafts isn't it?
  • homer29homer29 Member Posts: 5
    Guys,

    Just my luck found a new clunk while trying to fix a different clunk with the dealer. While test driving the car after having warranty work done we put the car into neutral to quiet the engine to make sure the original clunk was gone. As we slowed in neutral to a stop there was a sudden loud clunk from the transmission. It sounded like a gear change. The tech. in the car had no idea what it was and had never heard it before, although how often is a car in neutral when driving down the road? The car does it consistently only when in neutral and slowing to a stop. The GM tech. doesn't want to touch the thing and is putting a call into GM on Monday to get their opinion. They are worried it might be early stage transmission failure. I honestly can't believe it. The last month with this car has been a disaster. Anyway, wondering if anyone else had this interesting problem arise and what, if anything, did you do about it?
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