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2000-2011 Chevrolet Malibu

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Comments

  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Member Posts: 300
    I'm totally chill, I just think that for cschmieg1 to make the comment that our problems are because of the way we take care of our cars, was totally wrong of him. Anyway, it's my car and I'll treat it how I want (Not that I treat my car bad).
    Holy cow, bcmalibu99ls, how come your odo on the bu is so low? Just keep watching to see if oil leaks from either side of the engine...if so, you probably have the gasket problem. Well, good luck.
  • breetai52breetai52 Member Posts: 91
    I'm putting only about 500-600 a month on the car. I live less than 3 miles from work so I only put miles on it when I drive to visit family. And once it warms up here in MA I might start jogging to work again. :)
  • credman41credman41 Member Posts: 12
    bcMalibu99Is.....I expect my '02 "Bu to outlast me.... I had 192K on a 92 Lumina with the same 3.1 engine. Changed oil every 3500 mi. Of course, usual breakdowns of Alternator, water pump, etc. but the engine was still going strong. Only reason I had to trade the Lumie...the power steering finally went due to-LACK OF MAINTENANCE....I noticed a small dripping about 2 years ago, ignored it, and suffered the consequences. If I had replaced a seal then, I'd still have the Lumie, and I loved that car....my fault, and it won't happen with my 'Bu.
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    jtrujillo86, my mileage is so low because, like breetai52, I live very close to work, and since I already live in one of the top North American resort destinations (Vancouver), I don't really need to drive too far in order to have a fantastic vacation :-)

    credman41, it's good to hear your Lumina had such a great engine. How come you didn't fix the power steering? Was it too expensive? It couldn't have cost more than a new Malibu, could it? :-)
  • credman41credman41 Member Posts: 12
    Cost of replacing the rack 'n' Pinion steering was about $1500 because I had driven the system dry too long. I kept pouring PS fluid in every couple of days and, at one point, lost the cover to the inlet...took me 2 days to get a new one and by then it was too late. At $1500, for a 10 yr. old car, we felt it was time to bite the bullet. And, I got such a great deal on my 'Bu that it cost me $0 up front, due to my having a GM Mastercard that it was well worth the trade. Again, it was my fault for not taking the "ounce of prevention".....
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    $1500 for a new rack?????? They must have had a boat payment due that day. i just replaced the rack in my Explorer with a remanufactured one and it only cost me $550. That includes the alignment.
  • bluemalibu2000bluemalibu2000 Member Posts: 25
    I bought our 2000 Malibu in June 2000, and couldn't have been happier when I bought it. A great looking car with a smooth, quiet ride. I even posted a message on this board about how much we liked the car. However, for the past year the car has been missing very badly. We've gone through 3 fuel pumps from the dealership. It seems to run OK for a few weeks then starts acting up again. Many times it just stalls out. The car is now out of warranty. I've thought about selling it, but I keep going back to how much we like the car when we bought it, plus we would probably take a beating on the sale price. Has anyone else had problems with their Malibus missing or stalling out?
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Hey, BlueMalibu, I think that's the first time ever that I've heard someone having so much trouble with Bu's fuel pump. I mean, three pumps??? Could it be that the dealer is not changing it, but still sharging you (or GM, if in warranty) for the repair? Is there are any way for you to be sure that your original pump has been replaced?
  • deminindeminin Member Posts: 214
    I, too would question 3 fuel pumps being replaced by the same dealer. Either he is not diagnosing the problem correctly, or makes lots of money on fuel pumps. I would check your receipts carefully, as for a time, GM and Ford both had a policy that guaranteed a specific repair for as long as you owned the car..which meant that you only have to pay for a specific repair once..even if it broke multiple times. I would check to see if this policy is still in effect, and then if the car fails again, I would go to a different dealer. If you kept your receipts, and the problem turns out to be a bad computer module, for example, I would think you would have a good case to take to the GM regional office for reimbursement due to incorrect diagnosis/repair by this dealership.
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Member Posts: 300
    Hey guys. It was finally warm enough here in Denver to turn on my AC today. I figured that since I haven't turned it on since September, it would take a while to cool down...heck no! That thing was cool in less than 3 minutes! I was so surprised. The only thing I hate (well, two things) when I turn on the AC is that it uses much more gas and the cooling fans turn on. I hate the cooling fan thing because my car sounds much louder. Oh well, it's better than the vehicle over heating, right? Anyway, talk to you guys later.
  • chevymalibu19chevymalibu19 Member Posts: 49
    I just had my brake pads changed. I noticed that one side of my pads were completely wear down, while the other was still good. Has anyone else noticed that with their car. I'm just curious.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Sounds like you may need an adjustment with your calipers.

    Doesn't surprise me as the braking system in the Malibu is definitely a weak spot in the car.
  • chevymalibu19chevymalibu19 Member Posts: 49
    About how much does that cost, or can it be easily done bymyself?
  • whemmewhemme Member Posts: 4
    My 1998 Malibu suffers repeated problems with warped front brake rotors which seems to be major problem with this car. My rotors were resurfaced at 10,500 miles and then the rotors were replaced with new again at 18,000 miles - all under factory warranty. Now at 33,000 miles the rotors are warped again but the car is now out of warranty. Per a suggestion I saw somewhere, I am going to install new Raybestos rotors next to see if I can stop this problem from repeating itself over and over again. Does anyone have a different solution?

    My car also had the problem with intermittent operation of the air conditioning. The little green indicator light in the A/C button on the HVAC control unit in the center console would go out and would require the A/C button to be pushed again to restart the A/C. This problem got worse and worse until the A/C could not be kept on. It turns out that this switch on the HVAC control unit is a problem in a lot of Malibus - just tapping on the HVAC control unit near the A/C switch (not pushing on the switch itself directly) could cause the little green light to come back on and the A/C to resume operation.

    To fix this problem, the complete HVAC control unit must be repaced with new. The switch itself is not replaceable as the the HVAC control is a sealed plastic encased unit. Refer to the following website for additional information about this problem:
    www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/messages/26579.html
    Check the 3 followup messages at this location also.

    The GM P/N for this assembly is 22626483 for the version for a car equipped with rear heated window.
    The current list price for the assembly is $162.40. I don't know the P/N or cost for a Malibu without the rear heated window. I was able to purchase this part new at 50% off list from this online dealer: www.gmpartsdirect.com

    Their charge was $81.20 plus $9.18 handling charge plus $7.06 UPS ground freight for a delivered total of $97.44. This part is relatively easy to install yourself using the folowing procedure:
    1) Use a little pocket screwdriver to pop off the black trim plate around the ignition key cylinder. It just snaps in place.
    2) Then pull out the ashtray and grasp the bottom of the radio trim plate and pull out. It just clips in place also.
    3) You don't have to unhook the cig. lighter. Just lay the trim plate down on the console with the lighter still plugged in. You may have to move the transmission level out of the PARK position to open up space for the trim plate
    4) Then, there are two screws in the control head - one on the left side and one on the right side. Remove both and pull out the control head. Then remove the 4 connectors on the back and reinstall the new head in reverse order. Two of the connector are electrical and the other two are fiber optic lighting connectors. Be careful to unlock the latches holding these connectors in place. They will come off easily if proper unlatched. If you don't unlatch them properly and pull too hard on them - things might break!
    5) Then install the new HVAC control unit using the above steps in reverse order.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Thaks for the info whemme. Only 33k miles on a 1998. You must do a lot of walking.

    chevymalibu19: I can't imagine it would cost any more then just an hour or so of labor. Not unless something is wrong. Next time you have the oil changed and tires rotated, I would have them look at it.
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Member Posts: 300
    I too have had uneven break wear. I have had my car for 10,000 and I changed the break pads about 1,000 miles ago. When I took the breaks off I noticed the left had a lot less pad on them than the right. I don't know what the deal was, but the dealer just told me to replace the pads. I went in about a week ago though, and they told me my rotors need to be turned. Oh well, what can ya do?
  • bluemalibu2000bluemalibu2000 Member Posts: 25
    Thanks for the advice on my Malibu. I forgot to mention that in addition to the 3 fuel pumps (actually they just replaced two - one was the original), the dealership also completely cleaned out the fuel system last fall. They didn't charge me for that even though it was out of warranty (real big of them). However, the car still continued to miss & stall. I shouldn't have waited this long but I did. I'm going over to the dealership tomorrow to see what they can do.
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Check this out...

    Component Description:
    33. INTERIOR SYSTEMS:INSTRUMENT PANEL:GAUGE:INDICATOR NHTSA Number: 629749
    Bulletin Number: 040202
    Bulletin Date: FEB 2002
     
    Vehicle: 1999 Chevrolet Malibu
    Summary:
    SOME CUSTOMERS MAY COMMENT ABOUT AN INTERMITTENT SERVICE VEHICLE SOON LIGHT AND/OR AN ELECTRONIC TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT OFF WHICH MAY ILLUMINATE AFTER STARTING THE VEHICLE WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. *TT
  • deciding3deciding3 Member Posts: 13
    I'm looking to buy a new car and found a 02 maxima se with 32k miles for 15K (cloth and stereo is not bose! Is that a good price?
    My other options are 2002- 626/galant at 10K or 2002 -malibu at 10.5K.
    While, I realize that these cars are not really comparable and that the maxima is better, which do you guys think is the better deal. Price is quite important to me, but i can spend more if I know it will work out better in the long run.
    thanks!
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Member Posts: 300
    Don't go for the Malibu if you're looking for long lasting quality. If you take care of it well, I'll bet you'll get a great life out of the Maxima with very little problems. I hear the 626 is a really problematic car and as for the Galant, I wouldn't buy a Mitsubishi if my life depended on it. My sister owns a 1998 Eagle Talon which has an engine built by Mitsubishi. If the Galant's engine quality is the same as the Eagle Talon and Mitsubishi Eclipse, you'll be in the shop a lot. (That's how I am with my Malibu.) Anyway I would opt for the Nissan. Happy hunting.
  • deciding3deciding3 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the info. you are right about the quality of teh 626 and galant. I test drove all the cars today and they were no good. So I have dropped the mitsubishi galant, 626 & taurus from my shortlist.
    So only the maxima and malibu are left to decide between! Like you said the malibu has reliability problems. If i buy the malibu from Hertz that can give a good warranty, would that help. test drove both today and the malibu was better than I expected but the seat was a little uncomfortable. could have just been the one i drove. With the price at 10K for a malibu 2002 miles and 15.5K for maxSE 02, my mind says malibu cause its much cheaper. but my heart says maxima! So i'm still in a dilemma!

    FYI:This is a message I just posted on the maxima discussion list:
    I've been following your discussion forum for a while and wanted to ask you guys for some help.
    I'm getting out of college this Spring and looking for a car. I have shortlisted my choices to 2 cars:
    Chevy Malibu 2002 25K miles for 10K
    Nissan Max SE 2002 25K miles for about 16K
    While, price is certainly a big factor to me as I'm just getting out of college and also I don't really need a maxima type of car right now. But I can get the maxima through financing if the deal is good and if it'll be a better and more economical car in the long run. I wanted to know what you guys thought about it as most of you own maximas. Also, would you know anything about the difference in insurance rates for the 2 cars. I'm thinking that the maxima will have a much higher premium.
    Please let me know what you guys think being firsthand owners. I have shortlisted to these 2 cars using help from discussion forums, and i'd really appreciate information. Thanks!
  • spratt1spratt1 Member Posts: 53
    Depends on several things.

    If you want the car for a long time, the Maxima would be a better choice for reliability. Even though the cost is $5,500 more now, that would disappear in say 10 years.

    However, if you only keep it for 3 to 6 years I believe you will come our ahead with the Malibu by at least $3,000 to 4,000.

    That said, you should also consider the feel of the cars. The Malibu ride, handling and power is, in my opinion, the best for the money in it's class. We drove the Accord, Camry and Maxima, and for the $ we took the Malibu. We love the ride, feel it is better that the other three. The Accord is the only one with better handling.

    Now, this also assumes you are looking at a LS Malibu. We did not like the seats or fabric in the base Malibu. Interior is also better in the LS, and you get antilock brakes. Antilock is standard in the Maxima, and the interior is better than a NON-LS Malibu. I would take the Malibu if it is an LS, the Maxima if the Malibu is not an LS.

    For at least 4 years, the only problem you may have with the Malibu is the brake rotors. But those are cheap to replace.
  • deminindeminin Member Posts: 214
    For a person your age, insurance premiums could be a real consideration. Check with your insurance company, and they can give you a comparision quote. The Malibu insurance is quite reasonable in most cases. We traded the wifes little 93 Escort wagon for a 03 Malibu LS a few months ago, and the difference in insurance was only about $10/month thru State Farm. The Maxima is a great car, but probably will cost much more on insurance. For $5,000 difference, if you are on a budjet, the Malibu would probably be the wiser choice. If you are buying from Hertz, ask to see the cars maintainace records/history, and you might even want to have an independent garage inspect the car before you buy. A few dollars spent to have a good machanic check the car out could save you lots of grief later on with a used car.
  • buguybuguy Member Posts: 16
    Deciding3, been watching you trying to make a decision between the two cars. $5000 can buy lots of brake pads and rotors on a Malibu. It really isn't any more problematic than any other car if it is taken care of. You could need an intake manifold gasket down the road but possibly not. Transmission is a strong point on this car and though not as quick as the maxima, it has plenty of power for an inexpensive car. Insurance price over the long run needs to be considered. Stainless exhaust means no replacement for many years if ever on the malibu. Over all the parts are very inexpensive. Might not be a better car for the money out there than the bu. Tapping 80,000 on my 99 and spend $34 on brake pads. Total, finito, thats all for repairs. Waiting for the 2004 Epsilon to come out for a test drive. Just be sure to check the maintenance record from Hertz... bet it's been well taken care of. Good luck..
  • spark1espark1e Member Posts: 18
    Hi folks. My wife's car is a 99 Lumina LTZ, and my car is an Impala. Obvious Chevy bias. This fall my wife's Lumina lease expires and I suggested we get her a Malibu. I have a dealer/friend who finds me a car as I describe.

    I've started reading a few pages on this discussion and have learned a bit about the Malibus. Any advice on year models to go for or stay away from?

    Thanks.
  • credman41credman41 Member Posts: 12
    Hi y'all....my '02 Bu calls for 5W30 oil in the manual and on the oil filler cap. I noticed that the place that does my oil changes (every 3200-3500 mi.) uses 10W30....do you think that's a problem? Why the lower weight if the normal 10W is OK ??? Would it affect the engine, or mileage? Any help is much appreciated...
  • buguybuguy Member Posts: 16
    credman41, the reason for the light weight oil (5w30) is primarily for fuel mileage numbers. The lighter the oil the better the fuel economy. Looks good on paper and for EPA #'s. That plus easier starting in the winter in New England and other cold climates. That's the good part. The bad part is excess wear over the life of the engine. The mechanics that rebuild engines tell me they would never use a 5w30 in their own cars. The crankshaft bearings (plain bearings) take a beating with the light oils. I am sure there are some high mileage engines out there that used the recommended light oil but overall a 10w30 used year round in every climate hot or cold will give you better performance over the life of the engine.
  • credman41credman41 Member Posts: 12
    thanks buguy....doesn't appear that 10W30 will harm the engine, so I'm pretty sure I'll keep putting it in. As far as I'm concerned, the 1 or 2 mpg difference isn't worth the potential harm to the engine. I'd rather it lasted longer with the heavier oil.....
  • aub789aub789 Member Posts: 19
    Hi folks. My 98 LS with 81K has developed an increasingly louder squeak in right front wheel area when going at low speed and over bumpy road. Downright embarassing with guests in the car! Took to dealer who informs me both lower control arms need replacing (but the left side doesn't squeak!) for a mere $800. Says that it is not a safety issue, and if I can live with the noise I can save the $800. Can anyone enlighten me why I need to have both arms replaced, and is $800 too much to pay? Thanks for your collective wisdom!
  • victorpetersvictorpeters Member Posts: 2
    Drive a Hyundai before you buy anything. What have you got to lose. Just about $3000 and 2 years worth of warranty. I have a 2001 Elantra and it is the finest car I have owned. I have been buying new cars for 32 years and have had chryslers, chevys, fords, american motors, dodge, olds and buicks. For $3000 less than a cavalier you get a 5 yr/60,000mi bumper to bumper and a 10 yr, 100,000 mi drivetrain warranty. It is quieter than the american cars and better riding, The engine is smoother and more poweful. I know some of you elitists won't drive a korean car. Bad for you. Try it , you'll like it.
  • victorpetersvictorpeters Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me what the wheel base is on a 1980 malibu?
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    are notorious for their horrible quality, even compared to American vehicles. Just because your Elantra hasn't given you (yet) any problems, it doesn't mean that an average Elantra is even equal to an average Malibu, let alone better than it (and '03 Malibu won JD Power's initial quality award!). And why are you comparing Elantra to Cavalier? This is a Malibu forum, and Cavalier is crap compared to Malibu
  • deminindeminin Member Posts: 214
    AMEN!!!!!!! Our daughter had a Hyundia for the past 4 years. That junker spent more time in the dealers garage than it did at their house. She finally found a Dodge dealer that would give her something for a trade-in a few months ago. These Hyundia posts sound like a pitch from a car salesman who is hurting for business. Malibu may not be any Cadillac CTS, but for the money, its almost impossible to find anything better. The wifes 03 LS is going on 4 months old, and we still haven't found any reason to take it back to the dealer for any service. I've changed the oil/filter and added a quart of windshield washer fluid so far.
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Member Posts: 300
    A few weeks ago I was talking about how my dealer said I had a badly bent wheel...well they estimated the wheel would cost $75.00..Bull crap! I went in to have it done last week and one wheel and two wiper blades cost me 251.50! I about died when she told me it was that much. And that was with a 10% off parts and labor. Needless to say I didn't have the cash flow to turn the rotors. BTW - my dad's girlfriend has a 97 Cutlass and she said it's pointless to turn the rotors and she has had better luck when she just replaces them. I can do that on my own for under $100 (pads and rotors). I need to inspect my rear drums too while I'm at it. I stopped really hard the other day when some cow cut me off and I heard the worst noise come from the rear, and it wasn't just the screeching of the brakes, it was something more. Has anyone else had rear drum brake problems? Are they as easy to replace as the front pads?
  • deminindeminin Member Posts: 214
    Rear brakes (drum) can be a real pain on most cars compared to disk brakes. First, there's the problem of getting the drums off, then there are several parts that have to go back in just the right sequence, or they won't work. The retaining springs usually fly off and you spend a bunch of time trying to find them. Also, the self adjuster asm. usually won't go back together unless you hold you mouth just right. Whenever I tackle that job, I usually start it off with a stiff jolt of whiskey so I don't take a sledge hammer to it halfway thru. Also, I usually take the drums off both sides, and do one at a time, so I can look at the other side to see if I got it right. In short, unless you have done it before, this is one job that I would recommend you take to Midas or some good brake shop. These major chain shops have all the tools, and they do it all the time, so you can be in and out in an hour or two, and have a lifetime warranty. Also, if you check the newspaper, you will probably find that one of these majors is running a special for $69.95 per axle. I've done it a dozen times over the years, but I think the next time, I'll take it to the shop..my knees are starting to get arthritis...and the pain and aggrevation of this task is hardly worth trying to save $40 labor.
  • buguybuguy Member Posts: 16
    Right on Deminin! Absolutely correct about the rears. I can not understand how they can charge more for fronts than rears when no matter what you do to a set of disc's it is easier than springs flying off, screw drivers getting jammed trying to get the springs off and hearing the dreaded "plink" sound as you drop a small spacer or washer on the dirt driveway never to be seen again. Getting ready for the back to be done because the emerg brake gets closer to the floor as they wear. 80,000 seems about right. Also, I would never turn rotors. So cheap and easy to replace, it just doesn't pay to turn them.
  • chevymalibu19chevymalibu19 Member Posts: 49
    Yesterday i had my fuel injection cleaned. I was told that it was preventative maintenance, and that it could possibly help out with my gas mileage. Also, he said that i should get my fuel filter changed every 30,000 miles. I didn't know that. So i have to go back probably tomorrow or this weekend to get it changed. The last time i changed it was about 40,000 miles are somewhere like that, all i remember is that it was right after my warranty was up, cause had another problem that wasn't related, that they fixed under warranty anyway, although it was up. Don't know for sure how they did it, but I think they post dated it or something. It was the gasket leak. Anyway, just giving and update, and I'll see if i get improved gas mileage, i sure hope so, cause i drive sooo much.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Considering all the detergents in gasoline nowadays, the fuel injection service was probably a waste of money, not unless you had some type of problem with the injectors. Maybe 10-15 years ago this was necessary but not anymore. Plus I know there was controversy on how to clean the injectors (liquid vs. air). I wouldn't count your money from saving on gasoline.

    As far as fuel filter, 30k is a safe bet to change them although they can last to 45k miles without a problem. Fuel filters are pretty cheap to buy and install so 30k miles is not a bad idea.
  • mjohns7861mjohns7861 Member Posts: 41
    I have a squeak coming from my right front wheels, similar to a prior post. I have a 99 LS with 32K miles. What's the deal? I suspect I may get the same control arm explanation - $800 is a waste. Any guidance out there?

    Also, I have the same battery in my car from when I bought the car new in September of '99. Should I be proactive and think about replacing it? Any thoughts are welcome.

    Magnus
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Member Posts: 300
    Why replace your battery @ 32K?? They are designed to last until 60K (I think). Even if they don't last that long, that would just be retarded to waste you're money on something that has not failed. If the battery fails, what's the harm? You have to buy a new battery. It doesn't really damage any other components of your car. Are you getting a charging system light or is it hard to start? If it was, then I might...but if not, I don't think it's a very smart move.
  • deminindeminin Member Posts: 214
    I would be kind of skeptical about needing control arms at 32K. Before I spent $800, I would try a few things. Do you live in a colder climate where the street crews have been spreading lots of salt and sand this past winter?
     If so, you might try taking the garden hose, not a high pressure car wash stray, and do a real good job of washing off your undercarriage. Then, after it dries, spray a good coating of silicone or teflon lube all around the control arm bushings, and sway bar bushings. Don't use a petroleum based spray, as it can attack the rubber. Most good auto parts stores have silicone spray, and I like to use a product called "Slick 50-1 Lube". Dirt/salt/sand getting into your moving suspension parts can cause noises, and wear out the parts if not cleaned out periodically. If that doesn't help, I would go to a good suspension shop, and have them check it out before spending $800 for control arms. Unless you bend the arms by hitting a major chuckhole or having a wreck, the balljoints should last for much more than 32K. A good shop may be able to replace some rubber bushings for much less.
    With regard to the battery, you probably have a Delco sealed battery, and they are usually good for 4 or 5 years. On the top of the battery, you should see a small "window" that shows a green color. Green is good..red means get a new one. Also, you can meter the battery after the car has sat overnight. A good battery should show about 12.5 volts after sitting idle for several hours. A weak battery will barely reach 12V. A third thing you can try is see how long it takes to recharge to full capacity. If you have a good automatic 10 amp charger, hook it up, and see how long it takes for the charger to shut off. A good battery, holding good charge, will only run the charger for a few seconds to a couple of minutes. If the charger stays on for an hour or two before it shuts off, you can start budjeting for a new battery.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    I have a question about the registration fee (annual vehecle tax)for my 2002 Malibu. Is $200 about right? It costs less than $40 to register my other car 91 Geo Storm. It's our first new car, so forgive my ignorance. Thanks!

    tamu
  • spark1espark1e Member Posts: 18
    give about 2 or 3 days notice before they die. I know what Magnus is thinking. My father-in-law is considering the same thing, only his is 5 years old, and he wants to replace it on HIS time schedule, not the battery's. If your're not paying close attention to the 3 days of indications, it can let you set somewhere and not start, then you're forced to service it at that time.
  • breetai52breetai52 Member Posts: 91
    I'm pretty sure this depends on the state you live in. In MA we pay about 40 bucks to register the car regardless of how much the car costs. Then the town you live in sends you a bill for the excise which is dependent on the value of your car (25 per 1000). It was 190 for 2003 and 200 for 2002 (although that was prorated for just 1/2 the year). What state are you in?
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    Thanks for your response. I meant to mention we're in Indiana. We bought the car from a Michigan dealer and paid the sales tax and registered the car in Indiana. That shouldn't have anything to do with re-registration...Maybe Indiana is one of the states that tax based on value. A $200 annual tax just seems awfully high!
  • chevymalibu19chevymalibu19 Member Posts: 49
    About a week ago, i had my fuel injector cleaned, and i have had a significant increase in my gas mileage, to my surprise. I don't know the numbers, but i just judge by how much one tank of gas gets me back and forth to school and work on the weekdays. If you car has over a 100,000 miles, i'll suggest you get your fuel injector cleaned. This suggest comes from my personal experience inparticular. I'm aware some people will have different results.
  • breetai52breetai52 Member Posts: 91
    It should drop in half for the next year. States usually depreciate cars faster than their true resale. One of my friends owns a car thats 3 years old (was when tax bill came). The car is worth about 23k but the state had already depreciated it to less than 10k. I'm sure Indiana will do the same.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Glad the fuel injection cleaning worked for you. I've just never heard or read anything positive about it until now.

    RE: batteries, I've noticed the OEM batteries tend to last between 3-4 years 9regardless of miles). It also depends on how many extras you have on the car as well (power seats, cell phone, etc.). If your battery is at 5 years, it will problem go sooner rather then later. Probablay no reason to replace it now, not unless it will give you peace of mind. Personally, if it were the beginning of winter, I would replace it. One cold morning of sitting overnight could easily kill the battery without warning. In the summer, you will most likely get some ype of warning as mentioned in previous posts.
  • ispy2ispy2 Member Posts: 3
    For a while now I've been having problems with the horn on my '99. It only works sometimes, I talked to a Chevy mechanic and he said the sometimes the horn contacts get bent back or need cleaned. Not a job to do yourself because of air bags. I was going to get the dealer to fix it but now I realized that it can't be the contacts. Reason is that when the horn works you don't have to push on it hard. So I decided to drive on a curvy road while blowing the horn. It would cut of and on while making turns. So this would have me believe it is a wire. Has any of you had or heard of this, if so what is the fix?
  • spratt1spratt1 Member Posts: 53
    I believe the horn going on-off while turning points to a loose wire, or one that is grounding out, in the column. I had an old VW bus that did exactly the same thing. I was able to reattach the wire.

    BATTERIES: I also have found that OEM batteries only last 3-4 years. Actually, it is easy to know how long a battery will last. They are manufactured with a specific amount of anode and cathode material, so it is known to the manufacturer exactly how long it will last under known conditions. These conditions may be different depending on how it is maintained, what temperatures it is exposed to, etc. That taken into consideration, at best it will go for about 6 months longer than the warranty, at worst 1-2 years less than the warranty. When I notice a battery is getting "sluggish" in it's performance, and it is in the above time frame, I just replace it on my own time (as someone else said), so I'm not left stranded.
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