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2000-2011 Chevrolet Malibu
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Comments
Spratt1 seems to have the same thing happen to him, which is contrary to what y'al are experiencing. Hmm, interesting.
Oh and p.s., I think the worst part about it is the power difference. It wouldn't be so bad if it just turned on and off every now and then, but it bothers me when I'm accelerating and it does it. It just makes my car feel like a piece!
If the outside temperature is above 32F, and you have the AC off, but the fan on, if you push on the recirc switch the compressor comes on. The AC light DOES NOT come on. This is done due to moisture from your breathing, not really to cool the car. You must have the fan on or it does not happen. If it is below 32F, the same conditions will NOT turn on the compressor.
We have only had our LS Malibu for 4 months and 4,000 miles, but we are truly impressed with this car. And it really does have good power. The HP may only be 170, but the more important torque is 190 ft-lbs.
Magnus
MJohns7861, my check engine light came on last weekend. Scared the "S" out of me becuase I just started a mini road trip. The next time that I filled up I noticed that my gas cap hadnt been screwed on (couldnt believe I did that ). I tighted it up and it took 5 days (probably 10-12 starts) for the computer to "restart" and turn the light off. I kinda missed it when it was gone. It was like a little friend . And of course the engine felt fine. You still might want to have her taken in...
http://www.gm.com/automotive/gmpowertrain/engines/gmpow/lg8.htm
Seems like i got a good apple.
If it weren't for the warping rotors and the intake manifold, Bu would've been a sensation for an American company, but as it is, it's just a very good car, compared to what GM used to make :-)
BTW, my Bu now has 41K miles, and no warped rotors or manifold problems yet, but if it comes, oh well, 80% of the world population can't afford ANY car, let alone the one with 170 HPs, automatic, A/C, six-way power seats...well you understand :-)
Do you need it, no. But it's a good feeling knowing you have some extra protection when you start it at twenty below zero and have to floor it to get out in traffic. Or when you are wide-open, passing another car on a two-lane road after driving 10 hours on a 100 degree day.
When Mobil 1 first came out they recommended that you change it once a year or every 25,000 miles. But that violated the car manufacturers recommendations, so they backed off.
Having worked 30 years in the auto industry, I can assure you (believe it or not) the car makers' recommendations are very conservative. 7500 miles or now 10-15000 miles for some new cars (Cadillac, Mercedes) is no problem. If you doubt it, send an oil sample to a lab for testing. With modern machining and materials technology, fuel injection, and computer controls oil just doesn't get dirty like it used to. City driving is a lot harder on the oil. But following the recommendation in your owners manual will keep your engine running almost forever. There is a lot of oil being wasted out there. But if it makes you feel good.....
>>think there was a 2 week period where the HIGH was below freezing, usually by a few degrees. <<
I wasn't sure how I would like it since it's so much smaller and not as powerful as the SS, but I have to say I was pleasantly surprised.
I wanted to get into something a little smaller. I drove an Impala a few days, but they are as big as the Monte Carlo so I tried the Malibu.
It had adequate power on the interstates and was quite civil on the streets. Although I didn't check the actual mileage figures, it seemed to use more gas than I expected.
This LS has the LS Preferred Equipment Group as well as the AM-FM CD Cassette option. The leather seats and power moonroof are nice touches. The Spiral Gray metalic paint is very nice.
There should be a way to fold down the rear seats without having to get to them through the trunk. My Monte Carlo had latches in the interior.
All in all - a nice little car. Buying it at invoice and with $3,000 cash back helped too. ;-)
Congrats on your purchase!
The first says...they come out with a new model, then spend the next 5 years trying to wring out all the bugs.
The second theory is that they go to great pains to get it right the first time, then spend the next 5 years trying to make it cheaper.
It seems as though the current Malibu is a child of the first theory..I wonder which camp the new Malibu will come from.
I am sure technically is much more advanced, though the current Bu is a very pleasant vehicle, and deserves to be driven until it dies
:-)
front end-new one is offensive old one is dull
rear end-new one is too busy old one is dull
sides-swooshes on the new model are childish and dumb
interior-new one is a nice DESIGN actually, lets wait and see on materials and assembly quality, old one stinks
steering wheel-new one is almost as bad as ION sw
powertrains-STILL no OHC v6 motor available even as an option....pathetic.
yes the colorado looks bad. why isnt the colorado a version of the trailblazer?
But designs are getting freaky, and not freaky-good, but freaky-ugly
The true measure of power is really how wide the torque peak is. Ideally you want this band to be as wide as your transmission "step" is. So if your peak torque is from 3-4k RPM and your transmission will drop the engine RPM from 4-3k RPM at each gear change, you can maintain maximum acceleration through each gear shift. The Malibu has its peak past 4k RPM. Next time you are getting on the highway (assuming a fairly level entry lane) you can test this out yourself. You should feel yourself more "pinned" as the tachometer moves past 4k.
An engine with a higher HP rating, but lower torque, means that the torque curve is flatter before red line which means that they can probably "hold gears" in the transmission longer. They can also run in their highest gear at much higher RPMs, and since your car's tires are linked to your engine via the transmission, a higher HP usually means a higher top speed.
To oversimplify, it seems like a car with higher Torque would accelerate faster, but not be able to get to the top speeds of the car with higher HP. Of course its all really dependent on the torque curve. If the curve is really "peaky", meaning its high over a small RPM range, you won't have as much power as a car with a lower max and a wide RPM range. A CVT (continuously variable transmission) might make a peeky torque curve more efficient by holding the engine at the exact peak torque through an "infinite" number of continuous gear shifts, but I'm not sure.
I'm not sure about efficiency or smoothness. I'd assume that an engine with a higher torque at lower RPMs would last longer, but look at Civics. Those things won't die and if you've ever driven in one you know that you have to get the thing to 5k RPM just to get it rolling.
Sorry if I'm bitter but I have a 2001 LS with 28k miles (maintained at teh dealer)and have had the warped rotors, leaking rear brake cylinder, replced the strut mounting bracket and a loose tie rod fixed. Thanks goodness it was all covered under warranty but I am not confident about the future reliability of this vehicle. What makes it so bad is these are problems they were having with the early models.