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It has to do with drawing firm conclusions based on a statistically insignificant sample.Kind of like branding all cars built by ANY manufacturer as being lemons based on your singular ownership experience.I suggest you reference the slightly larger data bases and
recommendations made by Consumer Reports,J.D.Powers and Edmunds regarding Saab products.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions,
Tami.
A used Saab is an excellent value because of their rapid depreciation. I recommend a 2002 or later (I own a 2003 Linear) because of the redesign that year - not many new features but many refinements. There may be fewer Arc's and Aero's on the used car market just because of the lower volumes of those vehicles sold.
The 4-cyl Linear has plenty of power on the freeway (where the turbo is quick to spool up), but you'll notice a small difference in around town driving compared to your previous SE.
Google 'saab bulletin' for some message boards that have classifieds.
Also, FYI, no major redesign until 2007 model year on the 9-5.
I just got a 2001 9-5. The AC works intermittantly. The problem seems to be connected to the outside temperature shown on the SID information display module. When starting the car, it shows ---, or no reading. At that time the climate control / AC works fine. After a while, the temperature reading goes to -40degF, or sometimes another reading but always less then -20degF. At that point, the AC switches to heat and the discharge to the floor vents. That is normal if the car thinks it's that cold.
Any idea where the fault may lie? With a temperature sensor? With the SID?
Thanks for helping
P.S. Just bought a '01 SE
1) I am looking at a "new" (100 miles on the odometer) leftover 2003 9-5 Aero loaded to the hilt (still has plastic on the seats, etc.) that is selling for $29,900. According to Edmunds, the TMV for this car with the exact options is as follows: the trade-in value is $26,291, the private party value is $28,099, and the dealer retail is $31,309. It is a graphite-green metallic color, which frankly is not all that hot, but may explain why this car never sold. What would be a fair (but very good deal of course) offer to make on this car? The dealer purchased this car from Saab so the warranty went into effect in January, so that must kept in mind. Is it outrageous to offer as low as say $24,500 for this car? I don't feel that is all that low considering the trade-in value is low $26k. What do you think?
2) Why (does it seem to me, at least) do Saabs have a large depreciation value? It seems to me that the cars value go down pretty quickly.
Thanks for your help.
Frank
It makes sense what you are saying.
in conn. i know a man who had the yamaha fjr1300 bought back under the lemon law.(motorcycle)
i think if they cannot fix a problem after 3 tries you qualify.--in conn.
but check your state.
What is a fair price for this car?
29k seems high for that car.
Got it for $27,500 after a lot of haggling back and forth. Will pick it up on Monday. I haven't been this excited since...well...ever!
I am really looking forward to driving this car. I will be dumping my 1998 Eclipse GS-T on Monday - was a great first car for me but it is time to move on.
I'll keep everybody posted on my impressions after driving it for a while.
Picked up the car last night and I am blown away. This car is incredible.
2003 9-5 Aero, graphite green, gray interior, sentronic auto, touring package...
I still honestly cannot believe that this car is actually mine yet, I still feel like I am on an extended test drive : )
Anyway, I will post more detailed impressions of my car when I have been driving it for a few days. My first impression though (after less than a day) is that I made the right choice. This car feels very natural to me already, and I am not only talking about the interior comfort but the handling, ride, etc.
When did this start happening?
1/ Have 25k on the car, oxygen sensor has been replaced three times. Unusual?
2/ Lug nuts on wheels are totally rusted out. Think Saab would make good on these? Appearance issue.
Just fyi the car is the 3.0 V6. Wonder why they no longer make this engine? Problems?
2. There was some sort of recall on the lug nut thing - I don't remember specifically, though.
The V6 was just one more engine to keep in the lineup; now much simpler with just the basic I4 with different turbos and ECUs. The V6 was not a bad engine, but many speculate it was just offered for marketing purposes.
Regarding Saab pricing - pay no attention to sticker prices. In the last 3 years since I started tracking, there have ALWAYS been incentives on the 9-5 from a low of $3,000 to a high of $7,000 depending on the specific model. Incentives usually spike high in August and September as Saab is trying to clear out the old model year cars. So figure out the invoice, subtract the incentive and you have a better target amount for the real sales price.
i can't get a good answer from anyone (including various Swedish car shops) about which car will be more reliable. i hear the V6 was used in the Catera - that car couldn't have been less reliable from what i understand. does that translate to Saab 9-5?
also, the V6 has service records from the dealer, but it only was maintained at 10k intervals. replaced a battery and a fuse. is 10k stretching it on a turbo engine? i also understand the V6 has a timing belt that needs replacing at 60k, and that even though it is out of warranty at that point, GM replaces it under a warranty? anyone confirm that? and what are Ignition Cassette Modules? i hear the 4 cylinder has ONE, and the 6 has TWO. i understand they can go bad.
thanks for any advice you have. which would YOU buy? the 4 or the 6? both automatics.
THANKS!
However, the survey also showed that both Volvos and Saabs parts had the highest longevity of any cars including Toyota, Lexus or Mercedes.
IOW, brakes pads, exhausts, etc last longer.
The survey also showed that Saabs generally break down less often than Volvos.
Saab was ranked the 3rd most reliable brand after Toyota and Honda.
More reliable, better design/engineering, better gas mileage and more power.
The 6 is GM Europe product engineered at a time when GM Europe was poorly managed, and was consistently blamed for a general lack of quality.
The inline 4 is a 100% Saab engine, a proven design know for its bulletproof quality and longevity.
Ignition cassette can go bad, buy a spare one.
Most ignition cassette last well over 100K , but occasionally, some give up much earlier.
Very easy to replace, a DIY job.
Make sure you only use properly gapped NGK sparks plugs, replace the sparks plugs often to keep you ignition cassette from failing.
thanks very much!
The DI is easy to remove when replacing plugs - simply remove 4 torx screws and unclip the low-voltage wire lead. Grab each end of the DI with the "handles", give it a gentle pull and the whole unit is out.
A DI is fairly reliable but can fail on occasion. Probably no worse than other makes (ask a VW owner about failed coil packs). The conventional distributor on my old Passat failed at 60K and left me stranded on the highway, too.
We've had NO problems with our DI in 36K miles with our 9-5 Wagon. Many have reported (on another BB) well over 100K with no problems. One consideration is to keep your plugs properly gapped, as too wide a gap causes resistance/heat buildup in the DI which could lead to failure. I replace/gap my plugs every 10K miles, which is overkill, but as the cost of a set of NGK plugs is less than $8, I figure it's cheap insurance.
i am looking at the "lower" models. the "aero" kits are a little too intense looking for me.
i also like the wagons, though they aren't too easy to find.
so, with the 4 cylinder, in the 2001 model year, what else do i look out for? automatic transmission is solid?
THANKS! i am seeing pricing from mid $16s for models with 41k miles, up to mid $20s for models with 30k miles. all dealer pricing.
Yes, if a DI fails the car will not run. When you take delivery of your car, put in a new set of plugs with the proper gap and you should be fine, given the general good reliability of the DI system.
In 2001, the Linear 4 cyl has a Garrett turbo, the Aero has a Mitsubishi turbo. Each uses a different ECU.
The Saab 9-5 uses an Aisin-Warner auto trans, as do some Lexus models. It's perhaps one of the best in the market.
If you could swing the bucks, the 2002 models have a 5-speed A-W auto, improved suspension and more engine HP in both the Linear (185) and Aero (250).
good to know about the automatic.
thanks for the information. and for the quick responses! i might be in here again once i narrow down a specific car.
The 2001 2.3t sedan has 185 hp increased from 170 in the 2000 edition.
http://www.edmunds.com/used/2001/saab/95/100001700/specs.html?tid- =edmunds.u.prices.leftsidenav..6.Saab*
55-60 MPH: 34-35 MPG
70-75 MPH: 31-32 MPG
80 MPH (with giant Yakima Spacecase on roof): 28
Do any of you have similar results?
my aero 95 2002 has 70,000 miles and on trips to florida i average 33 mpg ,but,my speeds are 85 to 90 with an average of 79 mph overall.
when driving at 55 i get 42 mpg without the a/c on.
overall mpg around town is 22 to 24.but it can drop to 19 if it is nyc.
holding 65 on a 5 hour trip to vermont from ct. i did 32 mpg going north and on the return at the same speed i got 34 mpg.more of a downhill ,i guess.
I still love my car and have had no problems over the last 14,000 miles. (I bought used at 14,000 miles) I get a groan at low speed tight turns, too - which I just assume isn't a problem.
For my last oil change the dealer told me I needed new rotors and brake pads and new rear tires for $455 and $385 respectively. This seemed high so I thought I'd look for an independent Saab shop. Does this seem high to you? If so, does anyone have a recommendation for an independent Saab shop in the Boston area (I live in Roslindale). Thanks!