Saab 9-5 Sedan

jdowen · July 2005

I have an '01 9-5 and have had the DICs fail twice, once melting the catalytic converter. The first failure was in 2003 at 55K miles without warning and I had one cassette replaced. About 5 months later, the engine light came on a day before failure. The second failure caused the catalytic converter to burn up. This time the technician said that both DI cassettes have to be replaced when one fails or you run the risk of recurrence (either I was had by this guy, or the first guy installed it wrong) - expensive stuff! I happened to be far from home both times so they were different dealerships. Fortunately I was credited for the cost of the first replacement.

I was just told last week that my car requires an update to the engine computer software that is intended to prevent DI cassette failures. Does anyone know much about this update? Does this mean that there was a problem with the old engine software causing the failures? Or is this update just what it says - added fail-safes to help reduce the occurrences of the failures?

ffb13 · July 2005

the nhtsa has published a paper on the saab dic unit.

it has a full report of failure rates and anticipated failure rates.

sorry i cannot tell you were to go to find it but do a search and use saab dic to see if this will take you to the site with the report.

or try the gvt. site.

it is a problem.

i have been carrying my spare for 3 years now.
major problem is that if it goes ,chances are that your cat conv. will to . but they go for $ 800. if you shop the net.

aerodriver · July 2005

I can't reply specifically to your question on the DI cassette in a 2002 9-5, but keep in mind that the 2002 model year for the 9-5 was extensively refreshed, with numerous parts upgrades to improve performance and reliability. My 2002 Aero has had zero problems (cross my fingers!).

blckislandguy · August 2005

I just came back from a long weekend in Montreal. Lovely city, great food, nice people without the anger so endemic in the Northeast US, good real estate prices, etc. My mind drifted to what might be the ideal car to do this 700 mile round trip once or twice a month year round to a condo on Sherbrooke St (yes, Montreal is that nice).

Running through the list of possibilites, I came up with the SAAB 9-5 as the ideal all weather interstate blaster. Nice ride, great fwd traction, great seats, and not an outrageous buy-in price (especially if you buy a used one a year or two old). The 9-5 is much better than the big SUVs I saw on the trip, more fun than a Volvo S70 AWD, and a lot less money than the runner up on my list, the MB E Series with AWD. Spec it out with Zenons, install some Blizzaks on all four corners, and you would be all set for some fun motoring, even in January.

On a different note, I was thinking today about the cost to repair Volvos/SAABs/Audi\/MB etc. and peoples reactions. My thought was that the cost for most any part is probably roughly the same across these car lines. A windshield wiper assembly, for example, on a Volvo is probably as expensive as on an E Series MB. The technicians certainly get paid the same. But people with the entry level lux cars (i.e., Volvo, SAAB, Audi) get excited and angry. They must think that because their SAAB or Volvo is not as expensive to buy as a MB or a Lexus , the cost of parts and service should be lower. This however has nothing to do with the cost of parts or service.

peterson33 · August 2005

Service on my car was included up to the 30,000/36mo service. But looking at the service book, most items are listed as check this and check that.

The car is 3 years old and I have had the 36mo service. The car only has 20,000 miles on it. At this point I have had the oil changed every 10,000 miles (will do 5k from now on) and had the engine air filter and cabin air filter replaced along with the battery at the 36mo service.

Here's my question... when should you have the Auto trans fluid changed? How about the engine coolant, the fuel filter, the brake fluid? Seems like the dealer will change these things "when I need to" after they check them if I keep going back every 10k miles. the service book lists the spark plugs as needing to be changed at 40k.

I think it makes sense to "check' everything when I bring it in but there has to be a point at which service should be done. Especially if it's required to keep with the warranty. For example, I don't think i'd go past 50k on the coolant even if it is 100k coolant.

Any thoughts??

mhuntlee · August 2005

i have made a 13.5k offer for a 01 9-5 SE v6 including one year bumper to bumper warranty.
dealer said 14k and i left without the car. i have looked at the carfax and there are 14 service records on it that are not oil changes. i asked for a full printout of detailed service history(most repairs were done at said dealership) and the dealer denied, citing legal restrictions, but i was allowed to speak with the saab service manager. the service manager informed me that repairs were all minor: headlight here, alternator there, a/c compressor (a common problem with all cars in the climate in which i live), oil leak (a little alarming)....
so my question is: am i being offered a good deal or lemon? i love the feel of the car but i am new to the luxury car arena. last car was a 91 honda civic.

ffb13 · August 2005

peterson

in reply to your question.
i enjoy doing all the fluid changes myself.
good therapy and it gets done and right.

anyhow ,i change the oil every 3k

and i change the tranny fluid every 3 or 6k depending how i feel.

it is easy to do.
just pull out a medium size plug .
if car is hot about 4 will come out if not 3.

then screw it back

you will have to buy a washer ,an expansion washer to replace the old one. the tranny plug is forward of the oil on the drivers side.

peterson33 · August 2005

ffb13

Thanks for the feedback on the tranny fluid. Does the Aero have a transmision filter? If so is that best left to someone who can put the car on a lift?

blckislandguy · August 2005

Three questions:

How many miles now on the car?

WHOSE bumper to bumper warranty?

Air compressors are common problems in which climates? I think even in the Northeast people have them on a lot of the year and I've never heard it to be a problem in a late model car.

mhuntlee · August 2005

1. 46k
2. saab dealership warranty (certified)
3. hot, humid new orleans climate (a/c necessary 11 months out of the year)
thanks, blckislandguy.

staubball · August 2005

I feel your pain. I have a 1999 9-5 SE with 74,000 miles. We bought it used at 48,000 miles, checked all service records...which were really good....we have continued to service it at Saab dealerships. Started it a couple of days ago and drove 3 miles, sounded like we hit a deer, and the car died. The local Saab dealer says the timing chain "jumped" /broke, and engine is ruined. They can get a salvage motor and with labor will cost me $7,000. Are you kidding me? We have taken good care of this vehicle, can't resell it without a working motor, and its not worth much more than the cost of a replacement engine. Its fun to drive, but not worth the risk! If anyone has an idea on any possible options, please, I'm all ears....thanks

observer22 · August 2005

Try very hard to find an independent shop. Very few shops are known or advertised as Saab specialists, seek out shops that are advertised or known as Volvo/Audi/BMW/Mercedes specialists. Despite having a soft spot for Saabs, I avoided them because of situations like you find yourself in. If you end up having to get something else, target Taurus, year 2000 and newer and have some Brembo brake rotors installed. Taurus has used same base engine since 1986 introduction and has a timing chain instead of a belt. All mechanics can work on a Taurus.

General Motors (Saab's corporate parent for about a decade) is known for building throwaway cars that need to be replaced once paid off, it seems to be infecting Saab, sadly. Good luck and let us know what happens........

observer22 · August 2005

Concerning your Saab 9-5 problems, target the shop that installed your DI igniton module with an effective lawsuit. Get statement that the igniton module was installed incorrectly, check yellow pages for secretarial services experienced in typing up lawsuits and.....
Erwin Rommel Law, members.aol.com/rommellaw, order Lawsuit Cookbook;1997 Charlotte, NC video seminar; the TrialBook (extra credit if you get "Making and Meeting Objections"). Thru Amazon order latest edition of Nolo's LEgal Research book. Study one hour a day for 9 weeks or two hours a day for about 5 weeks. Anybody can and has done it, including high school dropouts and housepainters.
Will cost dealership about $5000 just to initially begin to defend the lawsuit, they will settle for cost of new catalytic converter. Seek out independent shop for future.

blckislandguy · August 2005

Lets be a little analytical here: No '01 vehicle that I am aware of, certified or not, comes with a bumber to bumper warranty. Please re-read the warranty. No way is it b to b.

Secondly, I wasn't aware that Saab's CPO program would include cars this old. Make sure that this is a Saab CPO car, not just an aftermarket warranty the dealer threw on the windshield. Finally, the money with your deep south location sounds a little high on a soon to be five year old Northeastern college town car.

You can do better and/or newer.

blckislandguy · August 2005

While I can't offer much beyond sympathy, I do have two thoughts. Most vehicles with timing belts have a "major service" at which this component must be changed. Just out of curiosity, when is this service scheduled on your Saabs engine?

Second, 7K to have them pick up a junkyard ("salvage") engine and throw it in?? Please. Surely, with a little research (there are salvage yards that just specialize in Saab; see an issue of Hemmings) and leg work you can find an independent garage that can pop in an engine. Or, maybe only the head needs work and the lower end is OK. Clearly, they quoted you the 7K figure to get you out of their shop and moving down the road. Acquiesce to this and take it to a garage that wants to help.

As far as suggesting that you buy a used Taurus and put in 2K worth (plus labor) of Brembo brakes, that poster has read too many issues of CarCraft and needs to rejoin the classroom discussion.

observer22 · August 2005

Blckislandguy,

Read my email again and pay attention. I specifically mentioned ordering Brembo brake rotors.....rotors only....$170 or so thru autobarn dot com, use regular, off-the-shelf brake pads. My neighborhood hole-in-the-wall indy shop installed rotors and pads for $60. Transformed a Taurus into a much better vehicle that is reliable and, if bought at 4-5 years old, has 80-90% of the depreciation wrung out of it. If an accident or major repair causes someone to need a decent vehicle for a while until they get something better, the Taurus is a pragmatic option.
I mentioned the used 2000 and newer Taurus as an option if they get rid of their Saab.

ffb13 · August 2005

peterson

no filter in transmission .this is why it is so easy to change the fluid. just take the plug out,let it drain, ,put plug back in and then add fluid.

i bought a set of rhino car risers ,you basically drive the car up on it and makes it very easy to get under the car and drain the oil and tranny.

some dealers charge $180. for the tranny fluid change .

also ,just installed the remus viggen oval tip exhaust in my 9.5 aero.
my rear muffler was rusting in the outer shell and went to a local dealer and got the above for $ 425. including tax. about $ 80 off list.

so far ,it is not too loud , except inside my garage ,once out and on the road you cannot hear it.
any benefits ?
i was told no with the auto tranny ,but major benefits if you add the chip and other in a manual.

misterreliable · August 2005

Alrighty, perhaps someone could help me with my little debacle. I'm am considering purchasing a 1999 Saab 9-5 SE V6. I've read reviews, and I have driven this particular car. I love everything about the car. The one thing that is holding me back is whether or not this car will prove to be reliable. I'll be honest as say that I know very little about Saabs and any car that comes from the land of ABBA. In fact, I have been driving Toyotas for my past two cars. Which reinforces that fact. Are there any things in particular I should look for while inspecting the car? What were the problem areas for that particular model? Hopefully you guys can help convince this Camry driver to be a 9-5 driver.

Thanks for any help, Peter

ffb13 · August 2005

think of buying a saab the same as buying a jaguar.

some are good some are not .

it used to be that 7 out of 10 jaguars were not reliable.(my stat )

nowadays it is more like 4 out of 10.and this is a stretch.

you want reliability get a toyota or honda.

you want "character " ie. problematical and unreliable get a saab.or get a fiat or an english car.

i own one , 9.5 aero ,with 86,000 miles and was just given an 8 year warranty unlimited mileage (see consumer reports of last month for other cars in this fix ) because the engines are failing. they call it the oil sludge factor.

look into other saab sites that give you very accurate info. on your question.

altbigd · August 2005

I would investigate weather it is covered under SAAB's extended warranty. I received a letter From SAAB offering an additional 8 years on my engine as long as I provided all receipts and copies of checks done by certified SAAB repair folks. They only are offering it to certain years because of the oil sludge problem. If you decide to buy used I would see if it is covered first and get the letter directly from SAAB. My 9-5 had to have a new engine at 55,000 miles last summer. Last month they replaced my O-2 sensor, catalytic convertor and it is back in the shop with what they hesitate to call it computer issues. I have been using a loaner for the past couple of weeks will they look at it and fight with SAAB. The car has 85,000 miles.
I would never buy a SAAB again, I would like to sell - interested.

Stick with Toyota or Volvo.

blckislandguy · August 2005

Thanks. I stand corrected. Incidentally, steel brake lines which are available in the after market also dramatically reduce stopping distance. They are highly recommended for the Expedition/Suburban crowd.

blckislandguy · August 2005

I have always like SAABs although I've never owned one. But I have changed my mind. I've read most of these posts and talked with a few people . (I met a woman this weekend who just after buying a used SAAB 9 5 from a RI dealer, had the DIS need replacing. After much fighting with SAAB, they paid 50%).

I now think that any SAAB owned out of warranty is a losing proposition. I have two reasons. First, for whatever reason they are just not reliable cars and repairs are expensive. Secondly, they depreciate so quickly, you could find yourself pouring money into a car that is depreciating even faster! Kind of like pushing a rock up a hill. If you say to heck with it, I'll just drive it into the ground, you will wind up with a 10 year old, $2500 car with no reliability and a potentially catastrophic repair bill. Me thinks that if you want to live and drive on the low cost tail of the curve, it has to be American iron. Say what you want about an Exploder, but which has more utility, reliability, and is less likely to hurt you with a $5000 repair bill, a '95 Exploder or a '95 9-3?? Throw on some Michelins, install Brembos (see above post), redo the front end and you are all set out to 150K.

aeronaut · August 2005

New 9-5 Aero for 2006

aeronaut · August 2005

Looks great, and will fly with 280 hp.

marim · August 2005

I am having a similar, apparently baffling, problem. Car dies for no apparent reason. Usually while moving forward when I'm not giving it gas. For instance, turning a corner or approaching a stop. Not necessarily when using the brake. Saab mechanics are baffled because they cannot reproduce the problem. This happens to me about once per day in the past 3 weeks. I am afraid to get it onto the interstate where it may stall when not giving it gas at all times. This car cannot be restarted in Neutral. You must put it in Park to restart it. Saab has indicated that this may be indicative of a throttle housing problem but since they cannot duplicate the problem they cannot recommend. It's a $500 gamble. I also just spent somewhere close to $250 on a crank position sensor in hopes that that was the problem. It wasn't. Car died 10 minutes after picking it up from the mechanic. Doesn't appear to be heat/traffic related. :sick:

mickk · August 2005

I've got a 2001 9-5 Aero. I've had three sets of tires on it and each one set has cupped noticeably on the inside edge. The car was bought Certified Used from a dealer and had Kumho Ecsta tires on it. Once they got badly cupped,and wanting some all season capability, a tire dealer recommended Toyo Proxses. They were badly cupped after 20,000k. I then put on Avons and they are cupping after 12,000 miles. The cars has had alignments with each new set of tires, and once in between. They are rotated every 5,000 miles and rebalanced every 10,000. Shocks and other suspension components have been checked, and are all OK.

At one point the dealer told me that tires with large outside tread blocks seemed to have this problem on the rear of the Areo. The Kumhos and teh Toyos were like this, so I tried the Avons. Now they say the only tires they recommend that they know work are Michilins. I've never had great luck with Michilins as far as traction, and they seem very pricey. (about $800 for 4). I seems pecular to me that Saab designed a car that can only use one brand of tire.

Has anybody else experienced this problem or have any advice.
?

bookman05 · September 2005

does anyone know if the 06 9-5 freshening will include side curtain airbags front and rear?

blckislandguy · September 2005

The Michelin cost exageration diminishes the force of your argument: four Michelins from the Tire Rack or some other mail order company in no way approaches $800. Maybe $630 but not $800. Check out the ads in Road & Track and Car & Driver and enjoy tax free purchasing.

aeronaut · September 2005

aeronaut · September 2005

jazzysaab · September 2005

Questions about my 2000 SAAB 95 2.3T: I have about 91K on the car right now. I bought the car at 85k. Soon after I bought the car the engine light and the TCS light came on. I replaced the DI and also had a tune up. Lights are still on. It seems like the car is idling rough to me at times and sometimes hard to start. I love this car and don't want to give it up.. The car rides just fine once it starts going... Also, the cars seems to drink alot of antifreeze.... Any feedback on the problems I may have before I take it to the dealer???????

spotbearsd · September 2005

HERES A LINK WITH 14 PICS OF NEW 9-5 Aero:

http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/saab_95.asp

What a shame they couldnt of just done the tunning. The new rear end looks like an Avalon that matted with a Deville! Could they of made the rear park assist look any more like it came off an Escalade? It was so nice when it was hidden in the black trim piece.

cars4ben · September 2005

2001 Saab 9-5 randomly won't start. Has a mind of it's own. The dealer has replaced everything including the security system that might have to do with the car not starting.

Typical scenario: turn key--nothing happens--call Saab Roadside for a tow--car starts as soon as it arrives at the dealer. After all kinds of testing---no clue---

Problem might happen once a month---not weather related--it's hot in Texas !!

someguy1 · September 2005

I am in the market for a wagon. I am looking at the 9-5 arc and aero.

I drive mostly highway miles, can anyone tell me a real-world expectation of the 9-5's under these circumstances...

Thanks,
KA

jbj52503 · September 2005

I am looking at a 2005 9-5 Arc demo with 5K miles for 28K, including tax, tags and an extra year/24K miles on warranty.

I am used to driving Acura and Toyotas, and am concerned about costs of maintenance and reliability.

Also, the dealer said I could get service at GM. Is this true, and how much has it run you?

aeronaut · September 2005

I have a 2000 Aero with a manual trans. Last week on the highway travelling at 110 kph (68 mph) on cruise my gas mileage was 7.15 litres/100km or about 40 m/imp gal which is 33 m/us gal. If you travel at 100kph(61 mph) add a couple mpg.

Greg

r34 · September 2005

I think I have similar problem with my 2001 9-5 Aero (I bought it as a CPO vehicle too). The "nearly no thread" Michelin didn't have this problem. I replaced the Michelin with ContiExtreme because I was tired of switching summer and winter tires. I wanted some good all-season tires. The ContiExtreme tires performed well on snow but I got vibration and noise problem.

DiscountTires did Roadforce on the tires 3 times to fix the vibration problem. They said the directional tires may be too aggressive for a Saab. Now I heard a loud noise and it was likely from the tires. I am not sure if it is the "cupping" problem.

I posted my situation on the saabnet board. Most people said it's more likely a "cupping" problem. A guy switched from directional to asymmetrical tires and it seemed working for him. He replaced the Avon with Kuhmo Ecsta ASX. Did you have the same Kuhmo tires ?

zoozeek · September 2005

I just heard that Saab has increased the factory rebate on the 9-5 to $6000, in addition to the GM Employee Price. Is this correct? (I can't seem to find this info on edmunds.com.)

someguy1 · September 2005

I would like to know if this is true also and if it would apply to a 9-5 sport wagon (aero)

robl1 · October 2005

Its true. Here in CT there are dealing Saab 9-5s with a list price of $39K for $27K

jerrys2 · October 2005

Check out a Subaru Outback.
I have owned 2 as well as a Forester. Currently drive 2003 Saab and 2006 Subaru Tribeca. Love the Subarus!!

Jerry

sjmst · October 2005

I am thinking of buying a used 9-5, automatic.
I know the ins- and outs of other makes, but little about 9-5 other than they ride well, look good, and are priced right.

Id appreciate help on the following:

1) Pros/cons of 6 cylinder vs. Turbo
2) Is the ride height of the Aeros the same as the other models?
3) Any years better than others?
4) Any other tips worth sharing.
Thanks!
Sam

r34 · October 2005

I have a 2001 9-5 Aero and I like it. It is much better and more reliable than my 9-3.

1) Pros/cons of 6 cylinder vs. Turbo
- I test drove the V6 but I didn't like it. The I-4 turbo seems to be more
powerful and predictable.
- V6 uses timing belt (you need to replace them at 60K) but I-4 uses timing
chain.
- V6 has only 200hp...
2) Is the ride height of the Aeros the same as the other models?
- I don't think there is much difference in the pre-2002 model regarding to the
ride comfort. The clearance of my Aero is low but not as low as those 2002+
Aero. My car got stuck when the snow was more than couple inches.
3) Any years better than others?
- Avoid 2000. 2002+ Aero got more horsepower (250hp vs 230hp), better auto
trans (5 speed vs 4 speed), and many upgrades.
4) Any other tips worth sharing.
- You need to be careful and watch for damage on those 17" wheels and
low profile tires.
- Watch your speed or buy a radar detector !

If you are buying pre-2005 model, I would say get the Aero (only Aero has Mitsubishi turbo !) because you have the color match front spolier and side skits. You also get more horsepower and MUCH BETTER HK Stereo. I tried the 2005 Arc (220hp) and it seems almost as good as my 2001 Aero. Some people said they are good enough as power goes.

More info about different models can be found here or saabnet.

blckislandguy · October 2005

Even this doesn't sound low enough for what is now a one year old car that is due for a refresh with a poor reliability record. See if they will budge if you mention "D I S problems" to them.

muuramenian · October 2005

Anybody else had troubles with a non-AC heating system? The plastic mounting for the 3 knobs cracked in the middle, fan control stopped working. I put it together with wire and now it works fine, but i can't get it back with the blower setting (windshield/feet/upperbody selection on the right) installed. I cant get that variable-length-plastic-tube-p.o.s.-actuator installed at both ends. It's too short, the mounting plate blocks all access back there when i move it close enough for both ends to reach. Any ideas? Could i get access by removing the glove compartment?

Anybody with a HAYNE'S MANUAL nice enough to look up what it says about it?

I don't understand how it broke, might have been the mechanic who installed a new wire for the temp knob. It's my girlfriend's parents' car, so i don't have the opportunity or the balls to just go tearing out all the panels.

Anybody else with bad experiences of the whole system?

smu1976 · October 2005

I am on my second 9-5, had a 99 SE and now a 05 Aero Wagon.
Five years later, same car pretty much, surely the same dash and tune box.
Here's a lesson I learned and posted on the board back in 2000 that still has some value to you 9-5 and 9-3 owners.

The Harmon Kardon Stereo Amp is factory present to less than one third of the gain. For example, lets you you have an amplifier in your house, but your fixed on level number "9" out of "30" on the volume knob and don't now how to increase the volume (watts). The Saab manual fails to address this and calls it this the Start Volume? That is wrong. This is the AMP gain. So how do you raise the gain to get the subwoofer cranking and some watts to this fantastic stereo which as good as the Mark Levison in the Lexus (also made by Harmon, same amp, don't let the old brand cache of Mark Levison, Clarion, JBL, Infinity, etc, fool you, they are all Harmon International).

Ok, Here we go.

1) Turn your car on, stereo off.
2) Hit the weather band button and turn on the stereo at the same time.
The manual was wrong on my 99, wrong on my 05, it says hit the station band button. This will just move the sound around to each speaker for a test, kinda like testing surround sound.
3) The read out will say start volume of "9"
4) This is a waste of a good tune box, so increase the gain to about "25" by turning the volume dial up.
5) Wait ten seconds, turn your radio off, repeat, make sure the start (or actually gain is set at 25). Now you have a couple hundred watts moving to your speakers versus 90. You do not want to go up to 30 *the max), this will make the amp clip if you turn it up too loud, which may blow your speakers. If under warranty, don't be too concerned, the speakers are covered and the techs do not even know this feature at any Saab Dealer.
6) Finally, if you can't hear the difference, audio is not your bag, turn it back to the factory preset and be happy, its the stereo you thought you had and bought.

If happy, glad I helped, if you can't hear a difference, you need to stick to the A.M. dial and talk radio, but please don't [non-permissible content removed]. I know HK units, the Sweedes just confuse start and gain and the manual.

Hope it makes your ride more enjoyable.

SMU1976

dshamus · October 2005

Where is the cabin filter located on the 95 Aero? I am beginning to get a musty smell and figure it needs changing.

thanks

dshamus
03 Aero

pearson244 · October 2005

Most will recommend Aero but I like the softer ride and more comfy (for me) headrests, and lower price of the Arc/SE V-6. I like the 2002-2003 Arc's as they had many features (heated rear seats, ventilated front seats, weather channel, improved crash ratings, 5 speed automatic, great stereo, etc.) that were not available on the 1999-2001 or were "decontented" in the 2004 version when they went to the 4. I have 72K on the 2001 SE (V-6) and although the purists hate the engine, it has tons of power, gets 31 MPG at 70 MPH on Maine Turnpike and, for me, has been very reliable. In 2002-2003 models Saab's marketing strategy was to make the ARC the touring (i.e. Cruiser) model and the Aero the performance model, and both vehicles were identicially equipped, making the Arc and fully loaded car. Most dealers are unaware, so pricing on these cars is very reasonable. Good luck.

smu1976 · October 2005

All saabs have the WB and good crash rating for years. I had a six also on a 99 SE 9-5. Good GM motor, but I wouldn't buy one used unless it was certified for a few years by Saab or you know your way around under the hood. Very expensive to work on after the warranty is out, tight fit in the engine well, won't get the high miles of a four banger (150-200K). Ask the mechanics at the dealer, not the service manager. The Aero has a different suspension, wider bucket seats, 250 horses, tighter ride, not a luxury ride. BIg difference, nah, not much, your correct. You can't beat the gas mileage/performance ratio with any saab versus any car, period. You can get you six again, now a Saab six, turbo, in the new 9-3 Aero, but be ready to buck up about 40-50K (Saab is crazy with these prices). Saab better find their niche in the next couple years and I believe their niche is the 20-35K car, not going head to head with BMW, LEXUS, INFINITY in the 40-50K range.
Just my opinion, maybe they will sell like crazy.

dshamus · October 2005

Thanks SMU, and yes, I can certainly tell a masterful difference in my audio after "turning it up". Again, thank you for the information, I am enjoying my sound even more than before.

dshamus

Saab 9-5 Sedan

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles